FuzzDog 7 of Dwarves Auto Wah User manual

7 of Dwarves Auto Wah
Four knobs of funkin’
sweet auto filtering
Contents of this document are ©2015 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.

Schematic + BO
R1 10K
R2 1
R3 1
R4 10K
R5 5K1
R6 330R
R7 330R
R8 4K7
R9 4K7
R10 4K7
R11 330R
R12 330R
R13 4K7
R14 4K7
R15 1K
R16 100K
R17 20K (47K)
R18 20K
R19 20K
R20 10K
R21 10K
R22 4 7
R23 330R
R24 4 7
R25 47R
R26 7K9
R27 4K7
R28 47K
R29 47K
R30 47R
R31 2K2 (CLR)
C1 22n
C2 220n
C3 1u elec
C4 22n
C5 22n
C6 1u elec
C7 68n
C8 8n2
C9 100n
C10 2u2 elec (1u)
C11 100u elec
C12 100n
Values in blue are
improvements on the
original and are supplied
with the kit.
D4 should be reversed or
you can just leave it out.
D1-3 1N4148
D4-5 1N4001
IC1 L 13700
IC2 L 324
IC3 78L05
Q1 2N5457
Q2-3 BC550
DECAY 1 C
RES 50KB
SENS 100KB
BIAS 50KB

PCB Layout ©2015 Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
General Notes
The power and signal pads on the
PCB conform to the FuzzDog
Direct Connection format, so can
be paired with the appropriate
daughterboard for quick and easy
offboard wiring
Be very careful when soldering the
LED, diodes, transistors and
voltage regulator (IC3). They’re
very sensitive to heat. You should
use some kind of heat sink
(crocodile clip or reverse action
tweezers) on each leg as you
solder them. Keep exposure to
heat to a minimum (under 2
seconds). You should use
sockets for IC1+2, or be super
careful not to overheat. Take
your time.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Positive (anode) leg of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads. Negative leg (cathode) of
the diodes go into the square pads.
C11 can be laid flat across the top of the adjacent resistors to ensure plenty of clearance when
mounting in the enclosure. See front cover image.
Pots mount on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or just wire up ‘normal’
ones. It’s a good idea to place the pots in their holes in the enclosure when you’re soldering them in
place on the PCB. That way you know they’re going to line up ok. Best way to do it is to solder a
single pin of each pot in place, then do a visual check to see that they’re all sitting at the same
height. If not, melt the joints and readjust any that are off.
If your pots don’t have protective plastic covers you
should place a strip of thick card between them and the
board when soldering to keep them a good distance from
the pcb to avoid shorting other components.
You should solder all other board-mounted components
before you solder the pots. Once they’re in place you’ll
have no access to much of the underside of the board.
The bottom of your board should look like this >>>>>>
The circuit is very sensitive to input. You’ll have to tweak
the bias and sensitivity pots to get it set just right for
each individual guitar. It’s the nature of the beast.

Test the board!
UNDER NO CIRCUM TANCE will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Battery clip is supplied to test the circuit. Power supply is recommended
when using the finished delay as it will EAT batteries.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on
the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run.
If the circuit works at this stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch -
guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND,
IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs
together (twist them up and add a small amount of solder to tack it). Connect
the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you
know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry
about the switch etc.
BATTERY
IN OUT
Your nice, new circuit board
INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!
IN 9V GND OUT

(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
Wire it up - DC only version
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be
Tip Negative / leeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point.
They can be daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection
points (such as jack socket lugs) for multiple connections. As long as
they all connect together in some way.
L
E
D
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
+
IN
OUT
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
BOARD
LED+

(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
Wire it up - with battery
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be
Tip Negative / leeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point.
They can be daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection
points (such as jack socket lugs) for multiple connections. As long as
they all connect together in some way.
PedalParts.co.uk
L
E
D
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BATTERY
+
IN
OUT
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
BOARD
LED+
+
Just because the
FuzzDog enclosure
won’t take a battery,
there’s nothing
stopping you using a
bigger box.

Drilling template
Hammond 1590B
60 x 111 x 31mm
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots 7mm
Jacks 10mm
Footswitch 12mm
DC ocket 12mm
This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.
PedalParts.co.uk
It’s a good idea to drill
the holes for the pots
1mm bigger to give
yourself some wiggle
room, unless you’re a
drill ninja.
32mm
27mm