FuzzDog SweetyPuss User manual

SweetyPuss
High-Octane Octave-Up Fuzz
PedalParts.co.uk

Schematic
BOM
R1 1M
R2 100K
R3 10K
R4 10K
R5 1K
R6 220K
R7 150K
R8 10K
R9 10K
R10 470R
R11 100K
R12 22K
R13 1K
R14 10K
R15 2K2
R16 22K
R17 100K
R18 10K
R19 10K
R20 100K
R21 10K
R22 10K
R23 1K
R24 100K
R25 100R
R26 2K2 (CLR)
C1 10u
C2 10u
C3 10u
C4 10u
C5 10u
C6 10u
C7 10u
C8 10u
C9 1n
C10 100n
C11 10u
C12 10u
C13 10u
C14 100u
C15 1n
C16 10p
1-5 2N3904
D1,2 1N34A
D3 1N4001
GAIN 50KB
TONE 10KB
VOL 50KB
GREMLIN ALERT!
No label on the ‘IN pad.
Very high gain circuit. You WILL
pick up radio before you box it up.
Wow, that’s a lot of 10u caps!

Wiring shown overleaf will disconnect the battery when you
remove the jack plug from the input, and also when a DC
plug is inserted.
Snap the little metal tag off the pot to mount it
flush in the box.
You MUST use some kind of heat sink on the
legs of the transistors and diodes when
soldering. They aren’t keen on heat. Any more
than 3-4 seconds of iron and they’re toast.
ecommended assembly order:
esistors, Caps, Transistors, Diodes, Wires, Pots
I’ve incorporated the Current Limiting esistor for the LED
into the board for your pleasure.
Be VE Y careful when bending
the legs of the 1N34A.
The case breaks very easily. I recommend using needle-
nosed pliers pressed up against the case to grip the leg,
then bend it with your fingers so no pressure is directly
applied to where the leg enters the casing. That does mean
you’ll have to bend them past 90° to get them to fit the hole,
and have the case sitting well above the PCB (or you could
seat them vertically like the 1N4001), but better than broken
diodes.
1 2 3

Test the board!
UNDE NO CI CUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before
starting on the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down
troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this
stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what?
You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for
9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown.
Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small
amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V
wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At
least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it
working, THEN worry about the switch etc.
YRET
T
A
AT
B
NI UO TU

Wire it up
The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the
board. You can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the
board, another to the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
Now... GO CHU N OUT THE OCTAVE-UP FUN!
PedalParts.co.uk
L
E
D
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BATTERY
+
IN
OUT
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
BOARD
LED+
+