FuzzDog Candyman User manual

CANDYMAN
Boutique OD with
a long waiting list
PedalParts.co.uk

Schematic
BOM
1 2M2
2 510K
3 3K3
4 3K3
5 3K3
6 1K5
7 3K3
8 8K2
9 10K
10 2K2 (CL )
C1 47n
C2 100p*
C3 1u
C4 39n
C5 10n
C6 1u
C7 47u elec
C8 47u elec
D16 1N4148
D7 1N4001
IC1 4559**
D IVE 1MA
BASS 50KA
T EBLE 50KA
VOL 10KA
SW1 2WAY DIP
SPST
*Silver Mica in original
- try ceramic if you
don’t have one.
**Other op-amps may
give better results than
the original - down to
personal taste. Try
4558, 072, OPA2134 etc
The board has two pads marked JUMP. This is the
dashed blue connection shown above, between
D5-6 and D3-4. This connection is on the orignal,
but it is optional. The Jan ay doesn’t have this link.

Snap the little metal tag off the pots to mount them flush in the
box.
You should use some kind of heat sink on the legs of the diodes
when soldering. hey aren’t keen on heat.
Any more than 3-4 seconds of iron and they’re toast.
I’ve incorporated the Current Limiting Resistor for the LED into
the board for your pleasure.
SW1 is opional. You can just leave it out to omit D1 and D2 from the clipping section,
or add a jumper across both sets of pads shown above in red to keep them
permanently in the circuit. Connect only one of these links for asymetrical clipping.
the switch is recommended though.
DRIVE and BASS pots can be mounted to the underside of the PCB with header pins
or snipped component legs, or just wired as normal. REBLE and VOL must be wired.
he board was designed this way to allow space for battery use if required, while still
having a convenient way to mount the PCB in the enclosure.
NO E:
he BASS and REBLE are CU controls -
clockwise turn will decrease the amount of each.
Why? Ask the designer. Probably didn’t have access to Reverse Log pots.
1 2 3

Test the board!
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on
the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long
run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the
switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections
for 9V, GND, IN and OU . Connect IN and OU to the jacks as shown. Connect
all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small amount of solder to
tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.
At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it
working, HEN worry about the switch etc.
YRET
T
A
AT
B
NI UO TU

Wire it up
he Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the
board. You can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the
board, another to the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OU jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
his circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be ip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. hat’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
PedalParts.co.uk
L
E
D
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BATTERY
+
IN
OUT
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
BOARD
LED+
+