FuzzDog RockBox User manual

Rock Box
Full-on Rock Distortion
with a nice post-Boost
PedalParts.co.uk

chematic + BOM
R1 82R
R2 1M
R3 1M
R4 1M
R5 5K1
R6 470K
R7 1M
R8 1M
R9 100R 270R
R10 5K1
R11 1M 510K*
R12 1M
R13 330R 360R
R14 5K1
R15 47K
R16 82K
R17 10K
R18 10K
R22 1M
R23 1M
R24 5K1
R26 47K
R27 2K2
R28 2K2
C1 47u
C2 100n
C3 22n 10n
C4 470p
C5 22n 10n
C6 1u
C7 10n 100n
C8 22n
C9 1n 2n2
C10 1n empty
C11 1n 2n2
C12 1n empty
C13 100n
C14 10u
Q1-4 B 170
D1 1N4001
D2 9.1v zener
D3 9.1v zener
GAIN 5KC
TONE 100KB
LEVEL 100KB
BOO T 5KC
W1-2 3PDT
Main BOM is JTM45 version.
Tweaks for ‘59 Bassman in blue.
*520K in original. 510K is fine.

As the GAIN and BOOST controls on this babe are actually
Boner Boost circuits, they will produce a crackle when you
adjust them. This is normal. Panic not.
At full crank this circuit puts out a OT of signal, so
always start off with the ‘BOOST’ turned right back.
Snap the little metal tag off the pots to mount them flush
in the box.
You MUST use some kind of heat sink on the legs of the diodes and the
BS170s when soldering. They aren’t keen on heat. Any more than 3-4
seconds of iron and they’re toast.
A the components mount on the top side of the board. It’s also
recommended that all wires go this side, thus cutting down the risk of
anything shorting on the lid of the enclosure when finished.
EDs - leave these out until you’re boxing it all up - see later.
1 2 3

POT WIRING
Give yourself enough wire to be able to manoeuvre things around in the box
without ending up with spaghetti junction in there. 35-40mm is plenty.
JACK and DC WIRING
I’d recommend longer wires until the circuit has been tested. Then you can
detach them, put everything in place in the box, then make them as short as
possible (without tension) in the final boxing up.
FOOTSWITCHES
The holes for the footswitch tags have been made deliberately a little bigger
than required so there’s a bit of slack for placement. If you’ve ordered a
pre-drilled enclosure the holes for the footswitches are 1mm bigger than
would normally be supplied. Wiggle room is always good.
To attach the footswtiches to the board, first put them in place in the
enclosure. Don’t fully tighten them - just enough to hold them in place.
Now place the PCB down on top of the footswitches and manouevre until
you’re happy with placement. Now solder them in. Get plenty of solder in
there. It isn’t necessary to completely fill the holes but it won’t harm to be
sure of a good connection.

WIRING FOR TESTING
Connect everything up but the EDs.
Ensure your power supply is 9V Tip Negative, or connect up a battery for
now. If connecting a battery, solder long lengths of wire to the +V and GND
pads on the PCB, then attach the battery to the other end of these. This
saves desolding stuff from the board, which is a pain.
JACK SOCKETS DC SOCKET
GND
+V
GND
SIGNA
Ignore the third tag
- you only need that
if wiring up for
battery.
SIGNA is JACK IN and
JACK OUT on the PCB.
Each socket has its own
GND connection
conveniently placed.
Plug in. Go! Do remember to turn all the knobs fully counterclockwise
before you start. This thing kicks out some serious volume.
If it works, crack on and get it in the box. If not, troubleshoot. Check you
have everything in the right place and reflow any poor joints.

BOXING UP
Here’s how it’ll look when boxed up. Notice the two outer pots are turned
inwards 90°. This keeps them well clear of the jacks.
What about my EDs?
Pre-drilled enclosures are supplied with 3mm holes for the EDs, rather than
larger ones that require a mounting bezel. Why? Because you can hold the ED
securely in place with the PCB. When you come to box up your lovely new circuit,
get the pots in place first. Then the jacks. Now, slide your EDs all the way into
the PCB (long leg to square pad) and bend the legs ever so slightly so they don’t
fall out. Alternatively put a little bluetac on there. Now locate your footswitches
into place and tighten.
When everything is secure, let
your EDs slide down into the
holes - use some needle-nosed
pliers or skinny fingers to
position them fully in the holes.
Once in place, solder.
Those little lights aren’t
going anywhere!

L
E
D
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
+
IN L
E
D
BOARD
GND
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
+
OUT
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
ROCK BOOST
BOARD
IN A
BOARD
OUT A
BOARD
IN B
BOARD
OUT B
BOARD
LED A
BOARD
LED B
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip Negative
/ Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc), and you can
safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
PedalParts.co.uk
NOTE: Effect order is Distortion > Boost.
Wow, look at that. You can use either circuit
on its own. Click in the BOOST section and
you’re rockin’ a Boner Boost. NICE!
This is how the whole shebang is connected within the PCB traces.
NOTE: This is just for illustration purposes - none of this wiring needs to be done!