ISLAND PACKET 35 User manual
OWNER'S MANUAL
Contents Copyright © Island Packet Yachts
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Hello!
ISIAND
PACKET
YACHTS
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i
Congratulations
on
the
purchase
of
your
Island
Packet,
and
welcome
to
our
distinctive
family
of
owners.
We
take
great
pride
in
our
yachts
and
appreciate
your
endorsement
of
our
efforts
by
selecting
the
Island
Packet.
This
manual
is
intended
to
help
you
understand
and
enjoy
your
new
yacht
more
thoroughly
and
to
assist
in
maintaining
and
operating
it
in
a
safe
and
efficient
manner.
Individual
instruction
manuals
from
the
various
manufacturers
of
installed
equipment
may
be
found
in
your
owner's
package
for
more
in-depth
information
if
required.
Also
your
authorized
Island
Packet
dealer
should
be
able
to
answer
additional
questions
you
may
have,
or
feel
free
to
call
our
manufacturing
facility
for
further
assistance.
We
wish
you
years
of
pleasurable
sailing
experiences
with
your
new
yacht,
and
hope
that
your
enthusiasm
and
pride
of
ownership
for
your
Island
Packet
will
continue
to
grow
with
every
season.
Best
regards,
1979
W1LD
AcRES
RoAD
LARGO,
FwrunA 34641
813
I535-6431
FAx
813
I530-5806
I.
ISLAND PACKET
35
OWNER'S
MANUAL
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
Construction
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
Hull
Deck
Interior
Deck
to
Hull
Assembly
Rudder
and
Steering
II.
Spars
and
Rigging
a.
b.
c.
d.
Spars
Standing
Rigging
Running
Rigging
Tuning
the
Rig
III.
Sails
IV.
a.
b.
c.
d.
Sail
Care
Sail
Selection
Sailing
your
Island
Packet
Reefing
'Motoring
your
Island
Packet
v.
Maintenance
VI.
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
j .
Fiberglass
Bottom
Paint
Wood
Engine
System
Plumbing
Electrical
System
Deck
Hardware
Upholstery
Winterizing
Centerboard
System
Technical
Drawings
Bottom
Paint
Revised
4/89;
35-016
and
subsequent
ii
Page
No.
1
1
2
3
3
5
6
8
8
10
11
11
13
14
16
17
18
20
21
22
25
26
27
29
32
CONSTRUCTION
I.a.
Hull
The
hull
of
the
Island
Packet
is
molded
as
a
single
unit
of
fiberglass
laminate
consisting
of
alternating
layers
of
hand
laid
mat
with
triaxial
roving
saturated
with
polyester
resin.
Triaxial
roving
is
an
advanced
fiber-
glass
reinforcement
that
is
significantly
stronger
than
conventional
woven
roving
materials.
A
solid
fiberglass
(vs.
cored)
laminate
is
used
for
all
Island
Packet
hulls
because
of
its
superior
impact
strength
and
resistance
to
puncture,
factors
of
vital
importance
to
the
cruising
sailor.
The
exterior
finish
of
all
molded
fiberglass
parts
is
a
premium
ISO/ORTHO/NPG
type
gelcoat
which
has
superior
gloss
and
color
retention,
and
maximum
resistance
to
osmotic
blistering
below
the
waterline.
For
information
concerning
osmotic
blister
prevention,
see
the
Island
Packet
warranty
and
section
V.b.
of
this
manual.
The
boot
stripe
color
is
painted
on
with
a
high
grade
acrylic
enamel,
and
the
gold
cove
stripe
is
a
weatherproof
vinyl
tape.
The
bowsprit
structure
is
molded
integrally
with
both
the
hull
and
deck
and
becomes
a
unit
structure
during
the
joining
of
the
deck
to
hull.
It
has
heavy
fiberglass
surfaces
on
all
sides
with
a
solid
core
of
alternating
layers
of
plywood
and
fiberglass.
I.b.
Deck
The
deck
utilizes
a
cored
laminate
construction
for
the
advantages
of
lighter
weight,
increased
stiffness,
and
improved
insulation.
The
entire
deck,
cabin
and
cockpit
are
molded
as
a
single
unit
with
a
hand
laid
fiberglass
laminate
consisting
of
layers
of
mat
or
mat
and
roving
saturated
with
polyester
resin,
on
either
side
of
a
core
of
Poly
Cel
, a
matrix
of
glass
microballoons
and
polyester
-1-
resin.
Poly
ce1tm
is,
in
our
opinion,
the
finest
core
material
available.
It
is
impervious
to
rot,
will
not
delaminate
or
create
voids,
and
has
exceptional
physical
properties.
The
exterior
deck
finish
is
molded
with
the
same
high
quality
ISO/ORTHO/NPG
gelcoat
as
the
hull.
The
coarse
diamond
nonskid
areas
are
molded
in
a
contrasting
tan
integrally
with
the
deck
in
a
two
step
process.
The
interior
of
the
deck
is
finished
off
with
a
molded
fiberglass
headliner.
This
is
a
separately
molded
part
bonded
to
the
underside
of
the
deck
structure
during
the
molding
process
to
produce
an
interior
surface
that
is
attractive,
practical
and
durable.
I.
c.
Interior
The
interior
construction
of
the
Island
Packet
is
based
on
a
molded
fiberglass
structural
pan
that
is
unified
with
the
hull
to
produce
an
immensely
strong,
rigid
unit.
This
structural
pan
forms
the
entire
sole,
all
settee
and
bunk
surfaces,
the
engine
bed,
and
miscellaneous
other
surfaces,
and
is
molded
with
a
grid
system
of
plywood
and
fiberglass
reinforcing
webs.
The
full
perimeter
of
this
pan
and
the
entire
gridwork
of
reinforcing
webs
are
bonded
directly
to
the
interior
of
the
hull
with
multiple
laminates
of
woven
roving
and
mat.
Then
all
large
structural
bulkheads
and
various
furniture
assemblies
are
installed,
attaching
directly
to
both
tha
pan
and
the
interior
hull
surfaces
with
multiple
laminates
of
woven
roving
and
mat.
This
interior
construction
method
should
not
be
confused
with
the
more
common
"full
liner"
system
in
popular
use.
All
major
structural
interior
assemblies
in
~he
Island
Packet
are
bonded
directly
to
the
interior
hull
surface,
-2-
whereas
a
"full
liner"
has
substantialy
less
direct
struc-
tural
bonding.
It
is
far
more
labor
and
material
intensive
to
build
an
interior
with
the
structural
grid,
as
in
the
Island
Packet,
but
we
feel
it
produces
the
strongest,
most
reliable
assembly.
I.d.
Deck
to
Hull
Assembly
The
assembly
of
the
deck
to
hull
is
one
of
the
most
important
ste'ps
in
the
construction
of
a
yacht.
The
method
used
on
the
Island
Packet
is
simple,
extremely
strong
and
reliable.
The
hull
is
molded
with
an
integral
flange
turned
inward
around
the
entire
perimeter
of
the
hull.
The
deck
is
fastened
to
this
flange
with
stainless
steel
bolts
with
aircraft
type
locking
nuts,
plus
the
joining
structures
are
liberally
coated
with
a
tenacious~
resiliant
urethane
adhesive
sealant.
Also,
the
inboard
side
of
the
hull
flange
is
double
sealed
with
a
Permagum
sealant
strip
to
further
ensure
water
tight-
ness.
This
entire
joining
area
is
then
completely
encapsulated
with
a
teak
cap
and
side
rail
heavily
bedded
in
the
same
urethane
sealant.
This
rail
is
screwed
in
place
through
both
deck
and
hull,
adding
further
to
the
strength
of
the
joint.
And
all
rail
mounted
hardware
such
as
genoa
track,
stanchions,
and
cleats
are
through
bolted
through
the
cap
rail,
deck
and
hull
adding
htrength
to
the
assembly.
Aluminum
backup
plates
are
used
wherever
required
to
dis-
tribute
stress.
Figure
13
in
the
technical
drawing
section
at
the
end
of
this
manual
shows
this
assembly
in
detail.
I.e.
Rudder
and
Steering
The
rudder
is
made
of
two
fiberglass
half
"shells"
with
a
solid
stainless
steel
shaft
with
welded
steel
blade
interlocking
in
a
core
of
high
density,
structural
grade
-3-
urethane
foam.
The
rudder
"shells"
are
molded
of
multiple
layers
of
unidirectional
fiberglass
roving
and
mat
saturated
with
polyester
resin,
and
are
bonded
together
by
the
foam
core.
Note:
It
is
not
uncommon
for
a
slight
opening
to
appear
on
the
centerline
seam
of
the
rudder,
especially
when
the
rudder
is
bottom
painted
a
dark
color
and
exposed
to
direct
sunlight.
This
is
due
to
a
slight
expansion
of
the
core
material
and
in
no
way
affects
the
integrity
of
the
rudder.
However,
we
do
recommend
that,
if
this
occurs,
it
be
filled
with
a
high
grade
waterproof
flexible
sealant
such
as
3M-5200
or
Boatlife.
The
rudder
is
supported
by
two
bronze
bearings.
The
lower
bearing,
built
into
the
hull
immediately
above
the
rudder,
is
a
combination
packing
box
and
bearing.
Routine
inspec-
tion
and
adjustment,
if
required,
of
this
packing
box
should
be
made
to
insure
a
continued
watertight
seal
of
the
packing
material.
Repacking
of
this
(or
the
propeller
shaft)
requires
3/8"
square
packing
material.
Access
is
through
the
cockpit
locker.
The
upper
bearing
is
bolted
to
the
cockpit
sole
and
is
visible
inside
the
steering
seat
base.
A
bronze
locking
collar
supports
the
rudder
vertically
just
above
this
bearing,
with
low
friction
plastic
thrust
washers
providing
minimum
friction.
The
bottom
of
the
rudder
has
a
stainless
steel
strap
en-
gaging
the
bottom
of
the
rudder
and
running
to
the
lower
aft
end
of
the
keel.
This
strap
is
not
intended
to
be
a
rudder
support;
it
serves
as
a
deflector
for
lines
and
debris.
-4-
The
rack
and
pinion
steering
gear
provides
a
direct
drive
wheel
steering
system
unmatched
for
its
feel
and
relia-
bility.
Routine
inspection
of
this
assembly
should
include
checking
all
bolt
assemblies
for
tightness,
lubrication
of
gear
teeth
with
heavy
grease,
and
oilin~
of
bearing
areas.
Over
a
period
of
time,
especially
with
a
new
yacht,
some
looseness
will
develop
in
the
rack
and
pinion
gear
teeth
causing
some
free
play
to
be
felt
in
the
wheel.
This
can
be
eliminated.
First
ascertain
that
all
assemblies
(mounting
brackets,
upper
bearings,
etc.)
are
properly
tightened.
Then
loosen
the
four
cap
bolts
on
the
quadrant
attachment
to
the
rudder
shaft,
and
tap the
quadrant
aow~ward
to
mesh
the
gear
teeth
together.
When
free
play
is
eliminated,
but
steering
is
still
smooth
and
light,
retighten
the
four
cap
screws
to
lock
the
quadrant
in
place.
Periodically
apply
a
coating
of
heavy
grease
to
mating
gear
teeth
to
provide
smooth,
friction
free
steering.
Also,
apply
lubricatinq
oil
to
the
forward
support
bearings
on
the
seat
face
from
both
sides
to
prevent
wear
and
squeaks.
Also,
apply
oil
to
the
two
shaft
bearings
on
each
side
of
the
pinion
gear.
II.
SPARS
AND
RIGGING
II.a.Spars
All
spars
are
extruded
aluminum
6061-T6
alloy
with
a
heavy
clear
anodized
coating
applied
after
all
welding
for
maximum
corrosion
resistance.
An
integral
mast
guide
secures
all
wires
and
prevents
unwanted
slapping
against
the
mast
interior.
A
nylon
messenger
is
provided
in
both
the
mast
and
interior
to
run
additional
wires,
plus
a
radio
antenna
coax
cable
wire
has
been
installed
in
the
mast
(and
below,
from
step
to
nav
station),
ready
for
dealer
installation
of
end
fittings
and
antenna.
-5-
The
mast
of
the
Island
Packet
35
is
stepped
through
the
deck
on
the
keel.
A
rubber
gasket
tightly
secures
the
mast
at
the
deck
with
a
stainless
steel
pin
locking
the
mast
to
the
collar
and
deck.
The
mast
must
be
drilled
to
receive
this
pin.
Do
this
after
the
rubber
gasket
is
in
place
and
the
rigging
is
attached.
Also,
it
is
advisable
to
coat
the
rubber
gasket
with
vasoline
to
facilitate
installation
and
later
removal.
A
vinyl
boot
provides
a
weather
proof
seal
at
the
deck,
with
some
silicone
sealing
required
in
the
mast
track
areas
fore
and
aft.
When
installing
or
removing
and
replacing
any
fasteners
from
the
spar,
we
recommend
using
a
silicone
grease
applied
to
each
fastener
and
contacting
hardware
surfaces
to
minimize
electrolytic
corrosion
and
to
facilitate
removal
at
a
later
date.
II.b.Standing~Rigging
Standing
rigging
includes
all
fixed
wires
which
support
the
mast.
All
Island
Packet
standing
rigging
is
made
of
premium
U.S.
manufactured
stainless
steel
alloy
1 x 19
wire
with
rotary
swedged
terminals
for
maximum
strength
and
durability.
A
standing
rigging
specification
list
is
included
in
the
technical
drawing
wire
(figure
14).
(Navtec)
adjusted
section
for
your
reference
when
replacing
The
bobstay
is
made
of
solid
stainless
rod
by
an
open
body
turnbuckle.
The
bobstay
should
be
very
tight
and
have
no
play.
The
chainplates
are
attached
to
the
hull
by
a
combination
of
fiberglass
bonding
and
an
interlocking
assembly.
Figure
13
in
the
technical
drawing
section
at
the
end
of
this
manual
shows
this
installation
in
detail.
The
three
side
chainplates
on
each
side
of
the
mast
are
a
single
welded
-6-
unit,
with
welded
crossmembers
on
each
chainplate
inter-
locking
them
with
the
integral
hull
flange.
Also,
a
stainless
steel
strap
bridges
all
three
side
chainplates
with
continuous
strand
fiberglass
wrapped
around
each
chainplate/strap
intersection.
These
strands
are
bonded
to
the
interior
hull
surface
immediately
below
each
chain-
plate.
The
strap
bridging
all
three
chainplates
is
also
covered
with
mat
and
roving,
imbedding
the
entire
chain-
plate
assembly
with
the
fiberglass
hull
laminate.
Of
interest,
this
chainplate
installation
system
is
what
can
be
termed
a
"belt
and
suspenders"
design
...
either
method
would
do
the
job
(interlocking
or
bonding),
but
both
together
guarantee
unfaltering
reliability.
The
installed
strength
of
each
chainplate
could
support
the
weight
of
the
entire
yacht.
The
twin
backstay
chainplates
are
installed
similarly
except
that
they
are
individual
units.
Twin
backstays
are
used
(vs.
a
single
backstay)
on
all
Island
Packets
because
they
provide
an
open
central
area
aft
for
easy
stern
boarding
and
unrestricted
helm
seating.
Instead
of
the
common
three
legged
type
split
backstay,
two
independent
continuous
stays
are
run
to
the
masthead
offering
improved
reliability
...
four
(4)
terminal
pins
(vs.
six
(6)
for
the
3
legged
type)
and
support
from
either
stay
if
one
should
be
removed.
The
bobstay
chainplate
is
also
installed
similarly
to
the
others,
except
it
has
solid
stainless
steel
rod
crosspieces
that
are
interlocked
with
a
large
bundle
of
glass
fibers
bonded
to
the
hull
interior
with
mat
and
roving,
joining
and
imbedding
it
into
the
hull
laminate.
Note:
When
your
yacht
is
new,
it
is
not
uncommon
for
the
seal
at
the
chainplate
covers
to
open
somewhat
due
to
"seating"
of
the
rig.
A
small
leak
could
possibly
-7-
develop,
with
water
finding
its
way
into
the
lockers
below
the
chainplates.
Therefore,
it
is
recommended
that
the
chainplate
covers
be
rebedded
after
the
yacht
has
been
sailed
a
few
times
(at
least
in
moderate
air).
Simply
unscrew
the
cover
plates,
pry
up,
rebed
with
a
high
quality
sealan.t
such
as
3M-5200
or
Boatlife,
screw
back
in
position,
and
wipe
a
"finger
bead"
around
the
chainplate
where
it
exits
the
cover.
This
should
now
provide
a
permanent
seal
for
many
seasons.
II.c.Running
Rigging
Running
rigging
refers
to
all
that
is
used
to
hoist
or
control
sails.
Examples
include
halyards,
sheets,
topping
lifts,
reefing
lines,
etc.
The
halyards
provided
with
your
Island
Packet
are
made
of
special
low
stretch
dacron.
By
convention,
the
main
halyard
should
run
on
the
starboard
side
of
the
mast,
with
headsail
halyards
to
port.
To
help
keep
halyards
from
chafing,
tape
over
the
edge
between
the
spreaders
and
the
base
casting.
II.d.Tuning
the
Rig
The
shrouds
and
stays
supporting
your
rig
require
periodic
inspection
and
adjustment
to
keep
the
mast
straight
and
properly
supported
and
the
headstay
adequately
tensioned
for
good
upwind
performance.
It
is
recommended
that
mast
rake
be
set
to
factory
specifications.
Helm
balance
will
be
optimum
at
this
setting,
and
engagement
of
the
mast
base
in
its
cast
step
will
be
uniform.
The
mast
rake
is
pre-set
at
the
factory
during
installation
of
step
and
partner
(deck
collar).
As
long
as
the
mast
is
-8-
not
bowed
fore
and
aft
(check
by
sighting
up
the
mast
from
deck
level),
proper
rake
will
be
obtained
when
installed.
Tuning
of
your
rigging
will
be
periodically
required,
especially
with
a
new
yacht
after
a
sail
in
heavy
air.
If
you
are
not
experienced
with
tuning
a
rig,
it
is
recom-
mended
that
you
have
a
qualified
person
show
you
the
tech-
niques
involved.
Consult
your
Island
Packet
dealer
for
assistance
here.
Tuning
is
somewhat
of
an
art,
with
development
of
a
"feel"
required
to
properly
set
up
and
maintain
a
proper
tune.
However,
it
is
not
difficult
to
learn.
A
few
key
points
to
remember
regarding
setting
up
and
tuning
the
rig:
1)
Never
set
up
rigging
tension
bar
tight.
Too
much
tension
could
damage
fittings
or
the
yacht
itself.
2)
Periodically
inspect
all
turnbuckles
to
make
sure
all
clevis
and
cotter
pins
are
in
place
and
properly
secure.
3)
Regularly
inspect
standing
rigging
for
broken
or
bent
wires,
damage
or
rust.
Pay
particular
attention
to
the
swedge
fittings
above
the
turnbuckles
for
any
sign
of
cracks
or
corrosion.
4)
Inspect
your
lifelines
and
fittings
on
a
routine
basis
to
ensure
security
on
deck.
Make
sure
the
pelican
hooks
at
the
aft
end
of
the
lifelines
or
on
the
stern
gate
are
properly
attached
and
locknutted
onto
the
thread
studs,
and
that
the
retaining
clips
are
properly
snapped
in
place.
5)
Sight
the
mast
when
under
sail
in
a
moderate
breeze
to
ascertain
that
it
is
straight
both
athwartships
and
fore
and
aft.
Put
your
eye
at
the
base
of
the
mast
-9-
and
look
up
to
the
spar
to
do
this.
Check
on
both
tacks.
The
mast
on
the
Island
Packet
is
designed
to
stand
as
a
straight
column.
No
bending
is
recommended.
6)
It
is
good
practice
to
periodically
coat
all
standing
rigging
terminal
swedges
with
a
corrosion
inhibiting
liquid.
Products
containing
anhydrous
lanolin
(usually
available
from
marine
hardware
sources
or
your
local
pharmacy)
are
particularly
recommended.
The
lower
swedges
on
all
standing
rigging
(just
above
the
turn-
buckles)
are
particularly
important,
and
are
easily
accessible.
This
prevents
salt
or
other
corrosion
producing
deposits
from
collecting
at
the
base
of
the
rigging
wires
and
possibly
causing
long
term
damage.
III.
SAILS
III.a.Sail
Care
Although
the
sails
provided
with
your
Island
Packet
will
give
you
years
of
service
with
minimal
maintenance,
proper
care
will
enhance
their
life
appreciably.
The
two
worst
enemies
of
sails
are
sunlight
and
chafe.
Keep
your
sails
covered
when
not
in
use,
and
in
saltwater
areas
rinse
them
once
or
twice
a
year
with
fresh
water
(sailing
in
the
rain
will
do
just
fine)
as
salt
expedites
ultra
violet
degradation.
The
stitching
on
mainsail
covers
and
sacrifical
stripes
should
be
inspected
yearly
for
wear,
particularly
in
southern
climates.
Although
the
acrylan
in
these
covers
can
withstand
six
to
eight
years
of
intense
sunlight,
the
stitching
may
need
attention
once
or
twice
over
the
same
period.
To
keep
sails
from
chafing,
be
sure
your
spreader
tips
are
padded
and
covered,
and
watch
for
chafe
points
in
the
pulpit
area.
Furthermore,
when
sailing
downwind
the
use
of
the
vang
-10-
will
prevent
unnecessary
mainsail
contact
and
wear
with
spreaders
and
shrouds
(and
provide
substantially
improved
performance).
III.b.Sail
Selection
The
Island
Packet
35
is
designed
to
be
sailed
as
either
a
sloop
(main
and
jib
only)
or,
if
so
equipped,
a
cutter
(main,
jib
and
staysail).
The
two
rigs
are
identical
except
for
the
staysail;
a
sloop
rigged
Island
Packet
can
be
made
into
a
cutter
by
adding
the
staysail
and
related
hardware,
and
the
cutter
rigged
Island
Packet
may
be
sailed
as
a
sloop
by
not
using
the
staysail.
The
staysail
provides
added
sail
area
(about
25%
more)
plus
increased
versatility.
Light
air
sailing
is
markedly
improved
with
the
use
of
main
and
double
headsails,
plus
a
variety
of
reduced
sail
area
combinations
are
possible
for
stronger
winds:
main
and
jib,
main
and
staysail,
reefed
main
and
staysail,
etc.
III.c.Sailing
Your
Island
Packet
Assuming
one
has
competence
in
basic
sailing
and
yacht
handling
skills,
a
few
additional
comments
may
be
useful
pertaining
to
the
Island
Packet.
The
most
common
comment
made
by
first
time
Island
Packet
sailors
regards
dif-
ficulty
in
tacking.
One
may
find
it
relatively
easy
to
put
the
yacht
in
irons,
especially
in
light
air,
if
the
helm
is
put
down
too
rapidly
and/or
the
jib
is
released
too
soon
during
the
tacking
maneuver.
The
counter-
balanced
rudder
used
on
the
Island
Packet
is
very
easy
to
turn
and
provides
excellent
control;
however,
it
can
also
act
as
an
effective
"brake"
if
too
much
helm
is
applied
too
quickly.
-11-
To
avoid
this
"braking"
effect
when
tacking,
causing
the
loss
of
way,
and
the
potential
for
an
incomplete
tack,
gradually
apply
helm
when
tacking
(as
opposed
to
snapping
the
rudder
over
to
full
lock),
"steering
the
boat
around"
while
leaving
the
jib
sheeted
in
until
it
backs,
helping
to
pull
the
bow
"across
the
wind".
Then
release
the
wind-
ward
jib
sheet
and
quickly
sheet
in
on
the
opposite
side
for
the
new
tack
while
gradually
bringing
back
the
helm.
This
method
is
especially
effective
when
sailing
with
the
cutter
rig's
double
headsails,
as
the
jib
should
pull
through
the
slot
between
the
staysail
and
headstay
with
little
or
no
assistance
if
it
is
allowed
to
backwind.
Best
windward
performance
will
be
achieved
by
sailing
"full
and
by"
as
opposed
to
"pinching".
Boat
speed
will
drop
off
quickly
if
sailing
too
close
to
the
wlnd,
reducing
your
"speed
made
good"
to
weather.
Trim
your
jib
in
first
(making
sure
the
sheet
lead
is
properly
set
to
cause
the
luff
to
break
simultaneously
at
head
and
foot
when
heading
up)
then
adjust
your
main
(and
staysail)
accordingly.
Be
careful
not
to
overtrim
the
main
•••
ease
out
the
mainsheet
until
some
backwinding
or
luffing
occurs
and
then
trim
in
slightly.
Also,
in
moderate
to
heavy
air,
use
the
vang
and/or
adjust
the
traveller
stops
outboard
to
minimize
mainsail
twist.
Proper
jib
halyard
adjustment
and
headstay
tension
are
vital
for
good
windward
performance.
Likewise,
the
main
luff
and
foot
should
be
properly
tensioned
for
correct
sail
shape
and
best
drive.
A
boom
vang
is
particularly
effective
in
increasing
performance
when
reaching
or
run-
ning
before
the
wind.
-12-
Just
as
it
is
easy
to
cause
a
braking
effect
with
the
rudder
in
light
air,
one
may
experience
reduced
steering
control
in
heavy
air,
or
during
strong
gusts,
by
"over
steering".
This
causes
a
reduction
in
steering
control
and
could,
in
extreme
cases,
render
the
rudder
ineffective.
If
you
experience
this
behavior,
reduce
the
amount
of
helm
to
allow
the
rudder
to
regain
its
grip
and
re-establish
control.
This
steering
behavior
is
typically
brought
on
by
the
yacht
being
over-
powered
so
reduce
sail
area
(by
reefing
and/or
changing
sails)
or
ease
the
main
during
gusts
to
greatly
reduce
the
likelihood
of
this
happening.
In
general,
the
Island
Packet
35
will
achieve
best
perfor-
mance
when
sailed
in
a
prudent
manner.
The
great
stability
of
this
yacht
may
tempt
one
to
carry
sail
longer
than
is
actually
desirable.
A
reef
in
the
main
or
a
change
to
reduced
sail
probably
will
not
cause
any
loss
of
speed
and
will
substantially
improve
comfort
and
control.
In
general,
one
should
reduce
sail
area
in
freshening
breezes
by
starting
aft,
i.e.,
reef
the
main
first
before
reducing
or
changing
headsails.
Once
wind
strength
increases
beyond
the
level
that
will
drive
the
yacht
at
hull
speed,
about
8+
knots,
sail
area
may
be
reduced
without
loss
of
boat
speed.
The
result
will
be
a
far
more
controlled
and
comfortable
ride.
III.d.Reefing
The
mainsail
of
your
Island
Packet
is
equipped
with
a
single
line
reefing
system
that
allows
one
person
to
quickly
reef
while
remaining
in
the
cockpit.
Briefly,
the
reefing
procedure
entails
the
following
steps:
1)
Ease
the
mainsheet
to
luff
the
main.
2)
Make
sure
the
topping
lift
is
secure.
-13-
3)
Release
the
halyard,
dropping
the
main
sufficiently
for
the
reef
desired
and
resecure
halyard.
4)
Pull
the
desired
reefing
line
until
both
clew
and
tack
are
drawn
down
to
boom
with
desired
tension,
then
resecure
line.
5)
Retension
main
halyard
and
secure.
6)
Retrim
the
mainsheet.
7)
One
can
now
elect
to
either
gather
the
excess
sail
hanging
from
the
boom
and
tie
up
with
the
lines
provided
at
each
reef
point
(always
passing
the
lines
over
the
boom
and
not
under)
or
allow
the
sail
to
remain
as
is,
if
it
is
lying
quietly
and/or
you
anticipate
shaking
out
the
reef
soon.
IV.
Motoring
Your
Island
Packet
When
motoring
in
your
Island
Packet,
you
will
notice
a
dramatic
difference
in
steering
control
between
forward
and
reverse.
This
is
due
to
several
factors.
In
forward,
thrust
from
the
propeller
is
most
efficient
and
the
pro-
peller
"wash"
directly
impacts
the
turned
rudder,
"kicking"
the
boat
around
quickly
even
at
rest.
Conversely,
in
reverse
the
propeller
thrust
is
reduced
substantially
(due
to
the
blades
operating
backward)
plus,
most
importantly,
the
prop
wash
is
now
directed
forward
away
from
the
rudder,
eliminating
the
"kick"
experienced
in
forward
gear.
The
net
result
is
substantially
reduced
steering
effective-
ness
in
reverse.
However,
one
can
maintain
a
degree
of
control
when
reversing
by
doing
the
following:
-
Keep
the
rudder
amidships
until
some
sternway
is
achieved.
The
rudder
cannot
steer
the
yacht
unless
it
is
moving
aft,
and
will
only
"brake"
the
boat's
motion
in
reverse
if
helm
is
applied
too
soon.
-14-
-
Apply
power
in
reverse
gradually,
minimizing
turning
of
the
boat
due
to
prop
side
thrust.
-
Use
the
prop
side
thrust
to
your
advantage
whenever
possible
by
allowing
it
to
pull
the
stern
toward
the
desired
direction.
It
is
recommended
that
one
practice
maneuvering
in
reverse
to
develop
a
proficiency
in
this
skill.
This
is
best
done
away
from
any
docks
or
other
vessels
(or
sarcastic
friends)
in
calm
water.
A
float
or
marker
buoy
should
be
dropped
overboard
as
a
reference
and
then
one
should
attempt
to
back
around
and
up
to
it
until
a
feel
is
developed
for
the
boat's
behavior
in
reverse.
With
time
and
experience,
the
backing
maneuver
will
become
manageable.
One
will
notice
that
when
cruising
under
power,
a
degree
of
"helm"
may
be
experienced.
This
is
due
both
to
the
effects
of
the
single
screw
propulsion
system
plus
the
counterbalanced
design
of
the
Island
Packet
rudder.
If
long
periods
of
motoring
are
anticipated,
such
as
running
the
Intra-Coastal
Waterway,
it
is
recommended
that
the
wheel
brake
be
used
to
reduce
or
eliminate
this
effect.
The
modern
Yanmar
diesel
is
designed
to
operate
at
much
higher
speeds
than
older,
heavier
units.
It
is
entirely
acceptable
to
cruise
for
extended
periods
at
2500+
RPM
and
not
cause
undue
wear
or
strain.
Fuel
consumption
should
fall
in
the
range
of
about
one
half
of
a
gallon
per
hour
at
six
knots.
The
single
lever
shift/throttle
control
provided
enables
one
handed
maneuvering
and
"crunch"
free
shifting
by
even
the
most
"harried"
skipper.
An
electric
safety
switch
is
incorporated
to
prevent
starting
in
gear.
-15-
By
pulling
out
the
center
button,
the
shift
action
will
be
bypassed
providing
for
"throttle
only"
control.
Note:
We
recommend
leaving
the
control
in
reverse
when
under
sail,
with
motor
off,
to
prevent
the
prop
shaft
from
rotating.
This
reduces
drag
from
the
prop
plus
minimizes
cutlass
bearing
wear.
Due
to
construction
of
the
Yanmar
transmissions,
the
more
pressure
against
the
prop,
the
tighter
the
trans-
mission.
This
will
probably
make
it
necessary
to
reduce
the
boat
speed
if
trying
to
return
the
transmission
to
neutral
while
still
under
sail.
V.
MAINTENANCE
V.a.
Fiberglass
Fiberglass
maintenance
is
relatively
simple
and
care
free.
With
proper
care
and
treatment,
the
gelcoat
finish
on
your
Island
Packet
will
maintain
its
new
look
for
years
to
come.
But,
if
not
cared
for,
it
will
eventually
turn
to
a
flat,
chalky
texture.
To
keep
fiberglass
looking
new,
wash
the
exterior
surfaces
of
the
boat
frequently
with
mild
soap
and
fresh
water.
Stubborn
stains
can
be
removed
with
mild
abrasive
cleaner
such
as
SOFT SCRUB.
It
is
also
recommended
that
you
keep
the
surface
fiberglass
waxed
with
an
automotive
or
boat
paste
wax
a
couple
times
a
year.
A
coat
of
liquid
Turtle
Wax
is
applied
to
every
new
Island
Packet
at
the
factory
and
has,
in
our
experience,
been
quite
durable
and
easy
to
apply.
After
each
sail,
it
is
a
good
idea
to
rinse
the
boat
of
salt
using
fresh
water.
-16-
V.b.
Bottom
Paint
All
Island
Packet
yachts
are
molded
with
our
Poly
Clad
barrier
gel
system
to
prevent
the
formation
of
osmotic
blisters
below
the
waterline.
Details
of
this
coverage
are
explained
in
your
warranty
statement.
Before
paint-
ing
or
repainting
the
bottom
of
your
yacht
carefully
read
the
following
paragraphs.
To
maintain
the
maximum
resistance
to
osmotic
blisters,
it
is
important
to
under-
stand
the
following:
Sanding
of
the
molded
gel
coat
surface
seriously
reduces
the
osmotic
blister
resistance
of
the
Poly
Clad
system,
and
voids
the
terms
of
the
warranty.
Bottom
paint
on
new
yachts
should
be
applied
with
a
non-sanding
process
usually
involving
a
chemical
wash
and
etching
system.
After
a
number
of
coats
of
bottom
paint
have
been
applied,
over
numerous
seasons
of
use,
it
may
become
necessary
to
"strip"
the
bottom
to
the
original
gel
coat
surface.
A
chemical
paint
remover
compatible
with
fiberglass
(such
as
that
used
for
autos
with
a
fiberglass
body)
is
recommended
in
this
case.
Sand
blasting
(or
sanding)
to
remove
the
old
paint
will
"break"
the
surface
of
the
molded
gel
coat
seriously
decreasing
its
resistance
to
osmotic
blisters
(and
will
void
the
terms
of
the
warranty).
In
general,
the
following
factors
will
decrease
the
resis-
tance
of
the
gel
surface
of
your
yacht
to
osmotic
blisters.
Sanding
the
gel
surface;
thereby
"opening
the
surface"
to
increased
water
penetration
and
decreased
thickness
of
the
gel
coat
barrier
voiding
the
warranty.
Note
that
repeated
sanding
over
the
years
would
eventually
remove
the
protective
gel
surface.
Of
general
related
interest,
increased
water
temperature
-17-
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