J-TECH Hobby-Fab OX User manual

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Intro:
Thank you for purchasing the Hobby-Fab OX kit. The OX is widely popular and can be found around the globe. If you run across a
snag, feel free to send us a message or hop online; there are communities just for this machine. You can join the G+ OX
community (https://plus.google.com/communities/110852928951643236736) where you will find a helpful, experienced group
that uses this very machine.
The OX was first generated by Mark Carew. Our group soon picked up the design, cleaned it up slightly, and the end product is
what you are about to build. Good luck with this project and we look forward to seeing the awesome things you will create!
The below instructions will assist you in building the Hobby-Fab OX CNC kit. Each step begins with a BOM, then guides you
through that step. If something looks confusing, or a term doesn’t make sense, scroll a few photos up or down and the query will
most likely become clear.
Note:
The BOM has been double-checked by our team. We suggest a full inventory by the builder prior to beginning the build as well but
must warn, DO NOT open all boxes and dump all parts in a pile! This will make the build next to impossible to complete.
The extruded aluminum is cut to length. Pairs of the axis, i.e. both X gantry 20 x 60 and one 20 x 40 are cut together, surfaced
together, and bundled together to be an exact fit. The most frequent comment we get comes from builders unbundling the entire
kit and getting pieces and parts incorrectly assembled. We take extra precaution to ensure the kit goes together as smoothly as
possible. Leaving the extruded aluminum bundled up and parts in their step number box until you reach that step, will ensure a
smooth and quick build.
Shipping Damage –If there are any dents or dings in packaging please stop now and take pictures of the boxes. The most
damaged item in shipping is the aluminum extrusions. We will not replace damaged extrusions if the boxes are thrown away and
discarded prior to a notice being given about shipping damage.
Safety:
Use of a CNC can be dangerous. There is noise, electrical, respiratory, and other safety concerns. Please read about the use of a
CNC machine and understand its purpose and the materials you will be working with prior to continuing the build and use of this
machine.
Hobby-Fab, SMW3D, and its affiliates cannot bear any responsibility for damages or personal injury caused by the use of this
machine. It is up to the end user to ensure all safety matters are addressed and proper use of this machine is understood. Have
fun and be careful!

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Step 1
Z-axis:
The M5 x 30mm bolts are pre-installed in the clamps.
600W upgrade:
The 600w spindle upgrade is mounted in the same fashion. The builder will also find the 600w power supply in step one.

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Laser upgrade:
The spindle clamp with the M3 bolts installed will need to be the bottom clamp, see the end of this document for install.
Exploded View. M5 x 8 bolts go into Tee-nuts, M5 x 15 go into V-Slot.
Note here we are installing the black 90s on the inside, facing towards each other between the clamps, if this is difficult they can
be installed on the outside (top and bottom) of the clamps.
1. Slide the clamps over the spindle motor (these are a tight fit, you can open them with slight hand pressure to install over
spindle).
2. The clamps should ride at the top and bottom of the spindle, the bottom clamp should be approximately 40mm from the
bottom of V-Slot extruded aluminum.
3. Loosely install the M5 x 30 bolt in the spindle clamps and tighten at the last step. Perform on a flat surface so both clamps
are oriented the same direction.
4. Slide Tee-nuts in V-Slot
5. Install M5 x 8mm bolts through black 90 brackets into tee-nuts in V-Slot loosely.
6. Install spindle clamps to black 90 brackets with M5 x 15mm bolts.
7. Once all is aligned, tighten M5 x 8mm, M5 x 15mm, and M5 x 30mm bolts.
Now we install the threaded rod plates.

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8. The smaller plate goes on the bottom, the bearing recesses (on the threaded rod plates) face each other. Install with 3 qty
(per side) self-tapping screws and leave loose. Note, we provide a screw driver, but the self-tapping screws are much
easier to set with a drill motor.
9. Now that the self-tapping screw threads have been set, you will need to remove either the top threaded plate or the
bottom threaded plate for step 3. It is easier to set the threads before we do the final assembly, hence doing it here then
removing them for the final assembly.
We are now completed with this step; the assembly can be set aside.

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Bearing recess

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Step 2:
X_Z-Axis gantry plate assembly:
Before we begin this step let us look at how to assemble a wheel assembly. Note the package comes with the bearings and shims
loose. You will need to build the wheel kits. See here:
Bearing, shim, wheel, bearing. In some instances, the additional shim is required outside the wheel, the extra shim is not used in
this build. Do not use both shims inside the wheel. If the additional shim is required, the build instructions will indicate where to
put them.
After you build at least 6 qty wheel kits it is time to continue the X_Z axis build.

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The limit switch will face down. This is what will be considered the Z limit switch.

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1. Begin by installing M5 x 20mm bolts in the center two holes, and the smaller holes as shown here:
*NOTE: We added a Z limit switch during the writing of these instructions. The gantry plate has since been modified in shape. The
sharper corners face towards the bottom of the Z axis. The limit switch should be installed on the side of the plate that the
bolt heads (not threads) are on. The images used will show the old profile of the plate in some instances, such as above.

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2. Next install 2 qty M5 nuts into the plastic ACME nut block. Note one side has cut outs for the nuts.

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3. Tighten the M5 x 20 bolts holding the black plastic ACME nut block on, snug, do not crush the plastic nut… it is possible!
The bolts need to be tight, not torqued.
4. Next install the spacer blocks (long black pieces) there are threaded holes that the M5x20 bolts will affix to as shown
above.
5. Afterwards slide the M5x45 bolts into the holes in the back of the plate, through the spacer blocks as seen here: