JAYLINE SPITFIRE FS CA 2006 Installation instructions
SOLID FUEL HEATER
‘JAYLINE SPITFIRE FS CA 2006’
INSTALLATION & OPERATION
INSTRUCTIONS
MAY 2006
1
We thank you for choosing Jayline and welcome you among the
many happy Jayline customers. Please keep this booklet as a
reference guide.
Installation of Jayline Solid Fuel Heater
Please follow carefully all dimensions and recommendations provided on the individual
specification sheet for your model of heater. These dimensions comply with the required
standards of New Zealand (AS/NZS 2918:2001).
As building and safety standards vary for wood heaters please check with your local
building inspector or local authority prior to installations as a permit may be required.
Jayline recommends you use a qualified solid fuel heater installer or a registered plumber
to install your woodstove. Your dealer or heating specialist should be able to help with
recommendations.
INSTALLATION – FREESTANDING MODELS
1Unpack the heater and check for any transport damage.
2Inspect the outside of the building to ascertain the point of roof penetration for the
flue system. If a flue system is built and installed to the correct height it will
normally prevent downdraught problems during windy weather and eliminate
smoke spillage problems due to lack of draught.
3Check suitable siting for appliance and size of floor protector. Ensure position of
the flue pipe and, if possible, enter the ceiling space to check that no major
structural members will be affected by the flue pipe path.
4Check that the sub-structure is capable of carrying the heater (i.e. weight
consideration on the floor).
5Check measurements of the heater to combustibles or shield.
6Locate the heater in the required position (also see ‘Fitting Seismic Restraint’
after installation instruction #14).
7Using a plumb line, mark the flue penetration hole in the ceiling using a thin nail
driver through the ceiling.
8Cut the square ceiling hole to the required size and frame out.
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9Install the flue system (see flue installation instructions supplied with flue
system). Remember:
•The flue system should rise vertically from the appliance with as few offsets
as possible. Offsets should be avoided where possible as each change in
direction creates a resistance to airflow.
•The flue system must be well sealed with a minimum of 3 fixings at each
joint.
•The flue pipe penetrating the chimney must continue to the minimum length
of 4.6m from the top of the floor protector to the cowl.
•Flue exiting more than 3 metres from the ridgeline must not terminate less
than 1 metre above the roof penetration (see diagram 1 below).
•Where the top of the flue pipe is more than 2 metres above its highest fixing
point, it must be stayed against high winds.
10 Drill and fix flue system into flue spigot with stainless steel self-tapping screws.
11 Drill and secure the appliance to the floor protector using the two rear holes
behind the pedestal.
12 Fit steel top baffle plate into position by resting plate on rear side pins. Line up
notches in baffle with forward side pins. Lift baffle above side pins and slide
baffle to the back of the heater. Correct final position has the baffle rear hard
against the back of firebox and the baffle’s folded front edge turned downwards.
(See diagram 2).
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13 Position bricks in place so that they fit behind the rear mounting pin and the base
mounting pin (see diagram 3 below). This is designed to be a tight fit so that the
bricks are secure when in place. The angled edge of the brick should be at the
front on the side of the firebox. (Bricks for clean air models are fitted behind
mounting retainers that bolt onto the firebox sides. Bricks should line the sides
and rear of clean air models).
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14 Check the operation of the appliance using 4 to 5 sheets of newspaper to ensure
there is a good draught. Crumple up newspaper and light, wait until paper is
burning fiercely, and turn off all air supply. When the firebox fills with smoke,
open all air supplies. The firebox should clear of smoke immediately and the
remaining paper should re-ignite. If this does not happen, it is generally found
that there is either an air leak in the flue pipe system or it is too short. Check for
leaks first before experimenting with flue pipe lengths.
FITTING SEISMIC RESTRAINT
The Floor Protector must be mechanically fixed to the floor by bolting or
screwing. Note: Floor Protector to be fixed by gluing when on a concrete
floor that may have water pipes or electrical wires present.
The appliance can then be bolted to the floor protector with two 6mm x 50mm
dynabolts.
Warnings
1. WARNING: THE HEATER AND FLUE SYSTEM SHALL BE INSTALLED IN
ACCORDANCE WITH AS/NZS 2918:2001 (INCLUDING APPENDIX E AND F)AND THE
APPROPRIATE REQUIREMENTS OF THE RELEVANT BUILDING CODE OR
CODES.
2. WARNING: HEATERS INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THIS STANDARD
SHALL COMPLY WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 4013:1999 WHERE
REQUIRED BY THE REGULATORY AUTHORITY, i.e. THE HEATER SHALL BE
IDENTIFIABLE BY A COMPLIANCE PLATE WITH THE MARKING ‘TESTED TO
AS/NZS 4013:1999’.
3. ANY MODIFICATION OF THE HEATER THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED TO BE IN BREACH OF
THE APPROVAL GRANTED FOR COMPLIANCE WITH AN/NZS 4013:1999.
4. CAUTION: MIXING OF HEATER OR FLUE SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT
SOURCES OR MODIFYING THE DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATION OF COMPONENTS
MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. WHERE SUCH ACTION IS
CONSIDERED, THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE CONSULTED IN THE FIRST
INSTANCE.
5. CAUTION: CRACKED AND BROKEN COMPONENTS, e.g. GLASS PANELS OR
CERAMIC BRICKS MAY RENDER THE INSTALLATION UNSAFE.
Any variation from these installation instructions or any doubts about them must be checked against
the requirements of the AS/NZS 2918:2001.
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Correct Operation of Your Jayline Solid Fuel
Heater
Simply by burning your Jayline Heater correctly, you can improve
efficiency, reduce fuel consumption and minimise air pollution.
STARTING A NEW FIRE
Please note: If lighting the heater for the first time dust heater, glass, trim and flue before firing to avoid
particles sticking or discolouring. Once fired, some smoke and vapour will be released as the VHT painted
surfaces enter the final curing process. Open all windows and doors while running the fire on high for up
to 3 hours. People with respiratory, heart or other relevant medical conditions should avoid inhaling
vapours during the curing process. All VHT paint will cure at the highest temperature achieved and will
produce smoke again if this temperature is exceeded.
To start and maintain a good fire you will need the following ingredients:
1. A small quantity of newspaper (do not use coloured or coated paper);
2. A packet of firelighters (optional)
3. A quantity of finely split, dry soft wood kindling in a variety of sizes; and
4. Seasoned firewood split into a range of piece sizes.
The first step is to crumple half a dozen sheets of
newspaper and put them just inside the firebox.
The amount of newspaper you need will depend
on the firebox size, and the dryness and fineness
of the kindling you are using. The drier and finer
the kindling, the less newspaper you need. Many
people make the mistake of using too little
newspaper. Be generous with the newspaper and
you will have more success. Putting some
firelighter halves under the newspaper can also
help sustain firebox temperature until the wood is
burning.
On top of the paper place 10 to 15 pieces of finely
split, dry kindling. Softwoods, such as cedar or
pine, make good kindling. Ideally, the kindling
should be placed on and behind the newspaper so
that the combustion air reaches the newspaper fast
where you ignite it. It is also a good idea to add
two or three very small pieces of firewood to the
kindling load before lighting.
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Set the air control to fully open, light the firelighters or the newspaper and close but do
not latch the door. After about 5-10 minutes, when the wood is flaming brightly, latch the
door (some longer flue installations may require door to be left unlatched for up to 15
minutes until the flue system is warm and producing strong draft. Since leaving the door
open slightly can cause dangerously high temperatures, never leave the woodstove
unattended while starting the fire.
When the flames from the kindling load just begin to subside, add several small pieces of
firewood. Try to avoid smothering the fire with the new pieces. Placing the pieces on and
behind the burning kindling can help prevent smothering. As your Jayline heater is a
convection heater it requires approximately 45-60 minutes to preheat the steel firebox
before it can effectively convect heat into the room. A well maintained, hot fire will
reduce the preheat cycle.
REKINDLING A FIRE FROM CHARCOAL OR EMBERS
Embers found at the back of the firebox
should be raked towards the front of the
fire. If only a small amount of embers
remain, you will have to start with
kindling. If there is a good quantity of
glowing embers to work with, place at
least three, and preferably more than five
pieces of small firewood on and behind
the embers. Open the air inlets fully and
close the door.
If everything is just right, instant ignition
of the new load should be expected.
Allow the fire to burn with bright
turbulent flames until the wood is
completely alight. This usually takes
between 15 and 30 minutes, depending
on the size of the pieces and the moisture
content of the wood. When the wood is burning well, reduce the air setting to produce the
amount of heat and length of burn desired. Reducing the air control setting in two or three
stages will result in less air pollution because the fire will not have to recover from the
single, large reduction in air supply.
The most important rule is NEVER LET THE FIRE SMOULDER. As long as there is
solid wood in the firebox, there must be flames present or the unburned gases will escape,
both reducing efficiency and increasing air pollution. With modern appliances, it is
possible to achieve a reliable overnight burn while maintaining flaming combustion and
having enough embers in the morning to rekindle a new load.
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SOME OTHER USEFUL TIPS
Fuel load geometry: Small pieces of firewood arranged loosely in a crisscross pattern
burn quickly because the combustion air can reach all the pieces at once. Larger pieces
placed a little more compactly burn slower. Never add just one or two pieces of wood to a
fire; three or more pieces are needed to form a sheltered pocket of glowing embers that
reflect heat toward each other and sustain the fire.
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Small and Large Fuel Load Geometry
Fire in cycles: Don't expect perfectly steady
heat output from your Jayline heater. Solid
fuel heaters burn best in cycles. A cycle is
the time between the ignition of a load from
charcoal and the consumption of the load
back to a coal bed. Each cycle should
provide between four and eight hours of
heating, depending on how much wood was
used and how much heat is needed. Plan the
firing cycles around your household routine.
If someone is home to operate the heater,
build a small hot fire. If you must be away
from the house during the day, build a long-
burning fire.
The small, hot fire: A small, hot fire is a small amount of wood burned quickly. Use it
when you just want to take the chill off the house. The small hot fire technique
eliminates the smouldering fires that are common when people don’t need their heater
running hot all the time, like in spring and autumn. To build a small hot fire, rake the
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embers towards the front of the fire and place several small pieces on it. The bottom
layer should be placed to ensure that combustion air can flow over the embers and along
the length of the pieces of wood. The next layer should be stacked loosely in a crisscross
arrangement. Open the air inlet to produce a hot, bright fire. After approximately 15–20
minutes the air supply can be reduced slightly as the fire progresses, but never enough to
extinguish the flames. When only charcoal remains, the air supply can be reduced further
to prevent cooling the ember bed.
The long-burning fire: To achieve a long burning fire, rake the embers towards the air
inlets, as with the small hot fire, and use larger and more pieces of wood. Place the
pieces in a similar pattern to the small hot fire, using more pieces and larger pieces
(especially the top layer). Always make certain that there is a gap between the pieces
to ensure that the combustion air can reach all pieces. Open the air inlets fully for
between 15 to 30 minutes depending on load size and fuel moisture content. When the
fire is burning fiercely (at least 15 minutes), reduce the air control in stages to the desired
level. This allows you to turn down the air control and still maintain a clean-burning fire.
REMEMBER: NEVER LET THE FIRE SMOULDER.
Preventing creosote build-up: Creosote is a tar-like substance that builds up when the
organic compounds in smoke condense onto cooler flue surfaces. Left to build up over
time, creosote will restrict the airflow of the flue and impair the performance of your
heater. The production of smoke is at its highest when a fresh fuel load is added or when
the air control is at its lowest position. The most effective way to control the creosote
formation is to burn the heater so as to ensure as complete combustion as possible and at
the same time promoting higher flue temperatures. Smoldering fires should always be
avoided.
The amount of charcoal in the ash is often a good indicator of how well you are operating
the heater. If there is no charcoal and only very fine ash, then you are doing an excellent
job. If there is a lot of charcoal you may be turning the combustion air down too soon
after refuelling, or not raking the charcoal to the combustion air inlet, or turning the
combustion air down too low to support efficient combustion, or all of the above.
REMEMBER: THE HOTTER THE FIRE, THE LESS CREOSOTE FORMATION.
When you have mastered the techniques for efficient wood burning, here is what
you should see:
1. When wood burns it should be flaming until only charcoal remains. If there are no
flames, something is wrong.
2. Firebricks in the firebox should be tan in colour, never black.
3. Steel parts in the firebox should be light to dark brown, never black and shiny.
4. With seasoned wood, correct air settings and proper loading arrangement you
should expect instant ignition of a new load of wood—the bottom pieces should
be flaming by the time the door is closed.
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5. The glass door should be clear. A discoloured glass indicates that the wood is too
wet or the air control has not been left open long enough.
6. The exhaust coming from the top of the flue system should be clear or white. A
plume of blue or grey smoke indicates smouldering, inefficient combustion, air
pollution and probably low operating temperatures.
Correctly installed and operated, Jayline solid fuel heaters do not spill smoke into the
house. There are three main reasons why some woodstoves smoke:
Bad installation design: Incorrect flue installation, resulting in low flue temperatures
and low draft, can make a wood heater more likely to spill smoke. For example, flue
systems that run up the outside wall of the house and are not correctly insulated can rob
the heat from the flue and produce very little draft. Each elbow in the flue pipe assembly
slows down the flow of gases and causes a small restriction to flow. When a flue system
includes more than one elbow, the restriction can be enough to cause spillage.
Extreme negative pressure in the house: Energy efficiency practices and new building
code rules are making our houses more and more airtight. This makes the houses energy
efficient, but also makes them more sensitive to negative pressure when air is exhausted
from the house. Large, fan-forced exhaust ventilators, like down-draft-type kitchen stove
exhausts, can cause extreme negative pressure in the house when they are operating.
Because new houses are tightly sealed, there are few holes to allow replacement air to
enter, and the house pressure becomes negative. This negative pressure works against
flue system draft. In severe cases, the negative pressure in the house overcomes the flue
system draft and the appliance begins to spill smoke, especially when a fire is started or
when it dies down to coals. To prevent this extreme negative pressure, one option is to
open a window to allow combustion air into the room.
Improper heater firing technique: When a solid fuel heater is starved for air it
smoulders, producing a relatively cool, smoky fire. The temperatures throughout the
system are low. During a smouldering fire, the flue system will not be receiving the hot
gas it needs to produce strong draft. When the heater door is opened, smoke will spill into
the room. A smouldering fire is the single most common reason for smoke spillage and
totally unnecessary. By using the suggestions on proper firing technique earlier in this
document, you will be able to avoid these smouldering fires.
PURCHASING THE FIREWOOD
The quality of the firewood you burn can have a dramatic effect on the efficiency and
operation of the heater. The main factors that affect the burning characteristics of
firewood are moisture content, tree species and piece size.
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The moisture content of the wood affects the rate at which it burns and the efficiency of
combustion. When trees are cut, the wood moisture content ranges between 35 and 60 per
cent by weight*. If you attempt to burn wood this wet it will be hard to ignite, slow to
burn and will hiss and sizzle in the firebox. So much energy will be consumed in boiling
off the excess water that the efficiency of combustion and the heat to your home will be
low, condensation and corrosion may be occurring in the flue and smoke may be causing
problems to your neighbours. Properly seasoned wood ignites readily and burns
efficiently.
Firewood should be cut and split in the early spring and stacked under cover, with
good ventilation, to be ready for burning when required.
Look for checks or cracks in the end grain as a sign of dry wood. The stacks of firewood
should be in an open area so that air can circulate through them. During the summer, as
warm breezes flow through the stacks, carrying away the evaporating water, the moisture
content of the wood will fall to around 20 per cent. At this moisture content the wood is
ready for burning.
Although the energy content of dry wood per kilogram is almost the same regardless of
species, softwoods and hardwoods burn differently because of differences in density.
Softwoods, such as pine, are less dense than hardwoods like gums, Manuka or Black
Wattle. A denser wood will produce a longer-lasting coal bed, while a less dense wood
will bring a fire to an optimum burning temperature more quickly.
The size of the firewood pieces affects the rate of combustion. Larger pieces ignite and
release their energy more slowly than small pieces. Smaller pieces are better for short, hot
fires and larger pieces are preferable for extended firing cycles. In general, commercial
firewood dealers supply firewood in thicker pieces than modern wood-burning heaters
can handle. It is often necessary to split some of the wood again before using it. The
thickest piece size for high-efficiency heaters should not exceed about 150 mm (6 in.)
across the largest dimension and a range of smaller pieces will be needed for effective
stoking. Maximum log length varies according to model.
*CANTERBURY RESIDENTS PLEASE NOTE: WOOD WITH A MOISTURE
CONTENT OF 25% OR LESS IS THE ONLY APPROVED FUEL FOR USE IN
THE CANTERBURY CLEAN AIR ZONE.
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BURNING COAL
Due to their construction, the burning of coal in Jayline solid fuel heaters is prohibited.
Please also refer to ‘Exclusions’ in the Warranty Page 15.
Jayline Solid Fuel Heater Maintenance
To keep your heater burning clean and efficient it is important that you carry out
regular maintenance. General maintenance checks should include the following:-
ASH REMOVAL - Due to the high efficiency of your Jayline heater, ash removal should
only be necessary every few weeks. Ashes can be removed easily through the fire door
when the fire is at its lowest, such as first thing in the morning, or when it is completely
out. Jayline heaters work best when a small amount of ash (approximately 20mm deep) is
left in the firebox after cleaning. This insulates the bottom and prevents the base of the
stove overheating and burning out. In fact, building up the ash bed helps extend the long
burn cycle, while reducing the ash bed encourages greater heat output.
SURFACES - Jayline solid fuel heaters have vitreous enamel surfaces which just need
wiping clean.
FIREBOX - Check the firebricks, top baffle and interior surfaces. These parts are
subjected to considerably high temperatures and stress and some parts will eventually
need replacing.
DOORS - Check all gaskets used for wear and replace if necessary. Adjust door fitting if
required.
LUBRICATION - All moving parts should be lubricated with graphite grease every
couple of months.
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CHIMNEY CLEANING AND CHECKING FLUES
For all wood heaters, flue cleaning must be done regularly to avoid serious flue fires.
Frequently used heaters should be cleaned at least once a year (some sooner). The
cleaning rate, however, depends on the burning habits of the individual operating the
wood heater. For example, it is possible to clog a flue in just a few weeks if smouldering
fires are burnt and the flue is run cold.
It is recommended that flue sweeping be done by a professional chimney sweep.
Chimney sweeping is a specialist task and competent professional sweeps are available
throughout the country. When the flue is cleaned it is recommended that other parts, such
as baffles, are checked.
Flue systems should be checked at least once or twice a heating season. Flue systems may
require checking more often if the fuel or operation of the appliance is incorrect. When a
flue system becomes excessively blocked or requires frequent cleaning, advice should be
sought to investigate the installation and the operation of the heater. Flue pipes can
deteriorate very quickly with incorrect firing.
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Warnings
Below is a list of warnings to ensure efficient and safe operation of your Jayline heater:
•WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO
START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
•WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS IN
THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE WHEN IT IS OPERATING.
•WARNING: DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER INSTALLATION
CLEARANCES.
•WARNING: OPEN AIR CONTROL BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
•CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED WITH A
CRACKED GLASS.
•CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND
OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE WITH THESE
INSTRUCTIONS.
•CAUTION: THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF PRESERVATIVE-TREATED
WOOD AS A FUEL CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
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RETAIL LINKS WARRANTY
THIS IS AN IMPORTANT DOCUMENT - KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE
CONGRATULATIONS!
We at Retail Links appreciate your decision to invest in our product. Your heater will
become an integral part of your lifestyle, heating your home during the colder months and
at the same time maintaining its appearance as a quality appliance. We want you to get
the best possible performance from your fire and for this reason ask that you read this
booklet carefully to take full advantage of your warranty.
In particular we urge you to have your heater and flue inspected annually and the flue
swept if necessary. At the same time any other minor potential problems can be detected
and corrected before they turn into major ones.
We think this is a small price to pay to ensure your heater is kept in peak condition.
There is no doubt in our minds that you will extend the life of your heater.
We select only certain companies to act as our Retail Links dealers. They must have high
standards, be members of the Home Heating Association and are able to provide a total
service both pre and post sale to you the customer. We have every confidence that our
dealers will be able to answer your questions or fix any problem that may occur. If you
have any further queries, please contact us at:
RETAIL LINKS
P O BOX 9056
ANNESBROOK, NELSON
NEW ZEALAND
FAX: 03 547 0770
Thanks again for choosing a Jayline solid fuel heater. We
wish you many warm winters to come!
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RETAIL LINKS SOLID FUEL HEATER WARRANTY
10 YEARS (conditional)
Standard Warranty
This heater is warranted for ten years*, with the exception of the following: - door seal, glass,
glass seal, firebricks, secondary air systems, and removable baffle which will have a twelve
month warranty (parts only), provided it has been installed by a Home Heating Association
registered installer, or an installer recognised by Retail Links.
Conditions
The heater must be installed in accordance with the manufacturers’ instructions and all relevant
standards, regulations and by-laws. The company is not liable for any consequential damage by a
failure or defect covered by this warranty. All claims against this warranty must be directed first
to the retailer of the store. Any repairs undertaken without the written authority of Retail Links
will invalidate this warranty.
If a Water Booster is fitted (Rural models only), it must be a Retail Links Water Booster in order
to be warranted.
The warranty is only valid to the initial purchaser of the product.
Exclusions
This warranty does not cover damage caused by:
♦Mishandling, misuse, abuse, alteration.
♦Normal wear and tear.
♦Work done by others such as installers, plumbers or chimney sweeps.
♦The burning of coal, particle board or the like, salt laden driftwood or any chemically treated
wood or fuel of any kind.
♦Other products such as flues or replacement.
The warranty does not cover delivery of the defective part to the dealer or its reinstallation
following repair or replacement.
The manufacturer is not responsible for site conditions such as draughts, cleaning and servicing.
Procedure
If a defect occurs, contact your dealer and the part will be repaired or replaced at our option.
Transferability
This warranty is transferable in the following circumstance:
Removal of your heater to a new site as long as you use a registered installer.
It is recommended you have your dealer inspect your heater annually during the warranty period.
This warranty is in addition to your rights under the Sale of Goods Act and the Fair Trading Act.
RETAIL LINKS reserves the right to change specifications or design of its product without prior
notice.
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