JAYLINE FR300W User manual

Please leave this information with the appliance
APRIL 2018
JAYLINE CLEAN AIR
FREESTANDING WOOD FIRE
OWNERS MANUAL & INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS
SEE INSIDE TO REGISTER
FOR YOUR 15 YEAR WARRANTY.
15
YEAR
F
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B
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W
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FR300W

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APRIL 2018
Congratulations on the purchase of your Jayline wood re.
Please read this installation and operation manual carefully.
The installation of this re must comply with the Installation Standard
AS/NZS 2918:2001 as well as any additional local requirements.
Please ensure you have all relevant permits prior to installation.
Keep this booklet as a reference guide.
INSTALLATION OF YOUR JAYLINE WOOD FIRE
Jayline recommends you use a suitably qualied installation technician to install your re. Your dealer
or heating specialist will be able to help with recommendations as well as advise on permits/consents
required for the installation in your area. Web address for NZHHA certied installers/service person.
www.nzhha.co.nz/nd-a-member/
Please follow carefully all dimensions and recommendations provided on the individual specication
sheet for your model of heater as these dimensions comply with the required New Zealand standard
(AS/NZS 2918:2001).
As safety and emissions performance can be aected by altering the appliance, no modications are
allowed without the written permission from the manufacturer.
INSTALLATION
1. Unpack the heater and check that there is no damage.
2. Ascertain the position of the roof penetration for the ue system.
A correctly installed ue system will normally prevent down draught problems during windy
weather and eliminate smoke spillage problems due to lack of draught.
3. Ascertain suitable position for appliance and size of oor protector and check the ceiling to ensure
that no major structural members will be aected by the path of the ue.
4. Check that the sub-structure is capable of carrying the heater (i.e. weight consideration on the oor).
5. Check measurements of the heater to combustibles or shield.
6. Locate the heater in the required position (also see ‘Fitting Seismic Restraint’ after installation
instruction #10).
7. Using a plumb line fastened to the ceiling, mark the centre of the ue penetration position and cut
the ceiling hole to the required size and frame out.
8. Install the ue system (see ue installation instructions supplied with ue system).
Remember:
• The ue system should rise vertically from the appliance with as few osets as possible.
Osets should be limited as each change in direction creates a resistance to airow and makes
ue cleaning dicult.
• The ue system must be well sealed with a minimum of 3 xings at each joint.
We recommend using ue sealant on all joints.
• The ue pipe penetrating the chimney must continue to the minimum length of 4.6m from the top
of the oor protector to the cowl.

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APRIL 2018
• Flue exiting more than 3 metres from the ridgeline must terminate no less than 1 metre above the
roof penetration (see diagram 1 below).
• Where the top of the ue pipe is more than 2 metres above its highest xing point, it must be stayed
against high winds.
9. Drill and x ue system into ue spigot with stainless steel self-tapping screws.
10. Drill and secure the appliance to the oor protector using the two holes in the rear legs of the
appliance.
11. Our res have been tested in a standard 4.2m ue installation. If your installation requires additional
ue lengths (i.e. 2 storey homes) its important to note that each additional length will create more
draw. Therefore for best performance, extended burn time and to preserve the components in your
re, we recommend moving the air slide to low (once the re is established)
12. Extending the ue can improve re draw in some cases. If planning to use more than 2 additional
lengths of ue, please contact the manufacturer for best performance and technical assistance.
FITTING SEISMIC RESTRAINT
The Floor Protector must be mechanically xed to the oor by bolting or screwing. Note: Floor Protector
to be xed by gluing when on a concrete oor that may have water pipes or electrical wires present. The
appliance can then be bolted to the oor protector with two 6mm x 50mm dynabolts.
BAFFLE
Before lighting your appliance for the rst time, make sure the bae is in the correct position being as
far to the rear as possible, and ensure all packing material has been removed.

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APRIL 2018
REDUCING CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLE WALLS
In the event it is necessary to reduce the clearances to combustible surfaces, it must always be
done in accordance with the safety standard AS/NZS2918:2001 Section 3, Tables 3.1 and 3.2
The shielding shall be constructed from a heat resistant material. The shield must be xed to the
surface that requires protection and NOT the heater.
The standard allows three options to reduce the stated clearances:
Single Layer of continuous material with minimum Air Gap of 12mm to achieve a clearance factor
of 0.40
Single layer of continuous material with minimum Air Gap of 25mm to achieve a clearance factor
of 0.30
Two spaced Layers of continuous material with minimum Air Gap of 12mm + 12mm to achieve a
clearance factor of 0.20
The shielding must be open at the top and bottom (vented) to allow a continuous air ow. It is
this ow that keeps the surface requiring protection cool. Fixings should not impede this air ow.
The shielding needs to go far enough along and up the wall so that the original side and rear
required clearances are not compromised. As the ue is now closer to the wall the shielding
should also protect the wall from the ue pipe.
Example:
• Side wall clearance for the Jayline FR300 is 290mm
• A 12mm gapped shield on the wall with a factor of 0.40
• Calculate: 290mm x 0.40 = 116mm (This is the new sidewall minimum clearance)
• The shielding needs to be large enough that none of the original clearances of 290mm are
compromised.

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APRIL 2018
WATER BOOSTER  INSTALLATION(Installation Instructions supplied separately with Booster)

WATER BOOSTER  GENERAL

Please check the Specication sheet for this model regarding the Water Booster. A Jayline SS280
PW 3.1kW Water Booster (#302838) must be used with this model to comply with the clean air
requirements and the warranty (if non rural).

The Water Booster must be tted by a Certifying Plumber to a low pressure, open vented water storage
system, or an indirect system (heat exchanger). Please check with your Certifying Plumber.

For optimum performance, your cylinder should be no more than four metres from the woodstove.
The distance should be kept to a minimum. The hot water outlet (top pipe) should rise a minimum
of 1 in 12 to the hot water cylinder (a steeper rise works better). The cold water return should drop to
the water booster inlet (lower pipe). The pipe work must be 25mm diameter and should avoid sharp
bends or restrictions. Pipes between the cylinder and the woodstove should be lagged to within a
safe distance of the woodstove to avoid heat loss.

Please note - When using a Water Booster tted to an existing, or new cylinder, a Tempering Valve
must be tted to limit hot water temperature to the users (as per the Building Code), as this is an
uncontrolled heat source.

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APRIL 2018
WARNINGS
1. WARNING: THE HEATER AND FLUE SYSTEM SHALL BE INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH
AS/NZS 2918:2001 AND THE APPROPRIATE REQUIREMENTS OF THE RELEVANT BUILDING
CODE OR CODES.
2. WARNING: APPLIANCES INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THIS STANDARD SHALL COMPLY
WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 4013:1999 WHERE REQUIRED BY THE REGULATORY
AUTHORITY, I.E. THE APPLIANCE SHALL BE IDENTIFIABLE BY A COMPLIANCE PLATE WITH THE
MARKING‘TESTED TO AS/NZS 4013:1999. ANY MODIFICATION OF THE HEATER THAT HAS NOT
BEEN APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED TO BE IN BREACH
OF THE APPROVAL GRANTED FOR COMPLIANCE WITH AS/NZS 4013:1999.
3. PLEASE ENSURE THAT ONLY COMPONENTS APPROVED BY JAYLINE ARE USED FOR THE
INSTALLATION AS SUBSTITUTES MAY ADVERSELY AFFECT PERFORMANCE AND MIGHT NULLIFY
COMPLIANCE WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 2918:2001.
CAUTION: MIXING OF HEATER OR FLUE SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES
OR MODIFYING THE DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATION OF COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN
HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. WHERE SUCH ACTION IS CONSIDERED, THE MANUFACTURER
SHOULD BE CONSULTED IN THE FIRST INSTANCE.
4. CAUTION: CRACKED AND BROKEN COMPONENTS, E.G. GLASS PANELS OR CERAMIC BRICKS MAY
RENDER THE INSTALLATION UNSAFE.
Any variation from these installation instructions or any doubts about them must be checked against
the requirements of the AS/NZS 2918:2001.

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APRIL 2018
CORRECT OPERATION OF YOUR JAYLINE WOOD FIRE
Simply by burning your Jayline re correctly, you can improve eciency, reduce fuel consumption and
minimise air pollution.
STARTING A NEW FIRE
Please note: If lighting the re for the rst time, dust re, glass, trim and ue before ring to avoid particles
sticking or discolouring. Once red, some smoke and vapour will be released as the VHT painted surfaces
enter the nal curing process. Open all windows and doors while running the re on high for up to 3 hours.
People with respiratory, heart or other relevant medical conditions should avoid inhaling vapours during the
curing process. All VHT paint will cure at the highest temperature achieved and will produce smoke again if
this temperature is exceeded.
To start and maintain a good re you will need the following ingredients:
1. A small quantity of newspaper (do not use coloured or coated paper);
2. A packet of relighters (optional)
3. A quantity of nely split, dry soft wood kindling in a variety of sizes; and
4. Seasoned rewood split into a range of piece sizes, to be loaded front to back.
The rst step is to crumple half a dozen sheets of
newspaper and put them just inside the rebox.
The amount of newspaper you need will depend on
the rebox size, and the dryness and neness of the
kindling you are using. The drier and ner the kindling,
the less newspaper you need. Many people make the
mistake of using too little newspaper. Be generous with
the newspaper and you will have more success. Putting
some relighter halves under the newspaper can also
help sustain rebox temperature until the wood is burning.
On top of the paper place 10 to 15 pieces of nely split,
dry kindling. Softwoods, such as cedar or pine, make
good kindling. Ideally, the kindling should be placed on
the newspaper so that the combustion air reaches the
newspaper fast where you ignite it. It is also a good idea
to add two or three very small pieces of rewood to the
kindling load before lighting.
TO BUILD A QUICK, HOT FIRE
Use plenty of crumpled newspaper
and dry, nely-split kindling. Set the air
control fully open. Light the newspaper
near where the combustion air enters
the rebox. When a kindling re is built
properly, you should expect fast ignition
and no smoldering.

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APRIL 2018
Set the air control to fully open, light the relighters or the newspaper and close but do not latch the
door. After about 5-10 minutes, when the wood is aming brightly, latch the door (some longer ue
installations may require door to be left unlatched for up to 15 minutes until the ue system is warm
and producing strong draught. Since leaving the door open slightly can cause dangerously high
temperatures, never leave the woodstove unattended while starting the re.
When the ames from the kindling load just begin to subside, add several small pieces of rewood
as shown on page 7 (loaded front to back). Try to avoid smothering the re with the new pieces.
Placing the pieces on the burning kindling can help prevent smothering. Your Jayline heater requires
approximately 45-60 minutes to preheat the steel rebox before it can eectively emit heat into the
room. A well maintained, hot re will reduce the preheat cycle.
REKINDLING A FIRE FROM CHARCOAL OR EMBERS
Embers found at the back of the rebox should be raked
evenly around the re box. If only a small amount of
embers remain, you will have to start with kindling. If
there is a good quantity of glowing embers to work with,
place at least three, and preferably more than ve pieces
of small rewood on the embers (loaded front to back).
Open the air inlets fully and close the door.
If everything is just right, fast ignition of the new load
should be expected. Allow the re to burn with bright
turbulent ames until the wood is completely alight. This
usually takes between 15 and 30 minutes, depending
on the size of the pieces and the moisture content of
the wood. When the wood is burning well, reduce the
air setting to produce the amount of heat and length
of burn desired. Reducing the air control setting in two
or three stages will result in less air pollution because
the re will not have to recover from the single, large
reduction in air supply.
The most important rule is NEVER LET THE FIRE SMOULDER. As long as there is solid wood in the
rebox, there must be ames present or the unburned gases will escape, both reducing eciency and
increasing air pollution.
Always open the re door slowly to allow fresh air to enter and maintain the smoke path. If you open the
door too quickly or during the ignition phase while the re is warming up, smoke can pu out.
TO REKINDLE A FIRE FROM HOT COALS:
Rake the charcoal evenly. Place small
pieces of wood on and behind the coals.
Open the air inlets fully and leave them
open until the pieces of wood are well
charred. This illustration shows the
arrangement of pieces for an extended re.

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APRIL 2018
SOME OTHER USEFUL TIPS
Fuel load geometry: Small pieces of rewood arranged loosely in
a crisscross pattern (loaded front to back) burn quickly because the
combustion air can reach all the pieces at once. Larger pieces placed
a little more compactly burn slower. Once your heater has reached
maximum temperature, it is more ecient to top up frequently with
about 25% of a full load rather than let the re die down and need to
completely rell it.
A STACKED FUEL LOAD
AS VIEWED FROM DOOR
Fire in cycles: Don’t expect perfectly steady heat output from your Jayline heater. Solid fuel heaters
burn in cycles. A cycle is the time between the ignition of a load from charcoal and the consumption of
the load back to a coal bed. Plan the ring cycles around your household routine. If someone is home
to operate the heater, build a small hot re. If you must be away from the house during the day, build a
long-burning re.
The small, hot re: A small, hot re is a small amount of wood burned quickly. Use it when you just want
to take the chill o the house. The small hot re technique eliminates the smouldering res that are
common when people don’t need their heater running hot all the time, like in spring and autumn. To
build a small hot re, rake the embers evenly in the rebox and place several small pieces of rewood on
it. The bottom layer should be placed to ensure that combustion air can ow over the embers and along
the length of the pieces of wood (loaded front to back). The next layer should be stacked as per the
loading geometry. Open the air inlet to produce a hot, bright re. After approximately 15–20 minutes
the air supply can be reduced slightly as the re progresses, but never enough to extinguish the ames.
When only charcoal remains, the air supply can be reduced further to prevent cooling the ember bed.
Reload with small pieces often (loaded front to back), as full loads will smother the ember bed.
The long-burning re: To achieve a long burning re, rake the embers evenly, as with the small hot re,
and use larger and more pieces of wood. Place the pieces in a similar pattern to the small hot re, using
more pieces and larger pieces (especially the top layer). Always make certain that there is a gap between
the pieces to ensure that the combustion air can reach all pieces. Open the air inlets fully for between
15 to 30 minutes depending on load size and fuel moisture content. When the re is burning ercely (at
least 15 minutes), reduce the air control in stages to the desired level. This allows you to turn down the
air control and still maintain a clean-burning re.
REMEMBER: NEVER LET THE FIRE SMOULDER.

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APRIL 2018
Preventing creosote build-up: Creosote is a tar-like substance that builds up when the organic
compounds in smoke condense onto cooler ue surfaces. Left to build up over time, creosote will
restrict the airow of the ue and impair the performance of your heater. The production of smoke
is at its highest when a fresh fuel load is added or when the air control is at its lowest position. The
most eective way to control the creosote formation is to burn the heater so as to ensure as complete
combustion as possible and at the same time promoting higher ue temperatures. Smoldering res
should always be avoided.
The amount of charcoal in the ash is often a good indicator of how well you are operating the heater.
If there is no charcoal and only very ne ash, then you are doing an excellent job. If there is a lot of
charcoal you may be turning the combustion air down too soon after refuelling, or not raking the
charcoal to the combustion air inlet, or turning the combustion air down too low to support ecient
combustion, or all of the above.
REMEMBER: THE HOTTER THE FIRE, THE LESS CREOSOTE FORMATION.
When you have mastered the techniques for ecient wood burning, here is what you should see:
1. When wood burns it should be aming until only charcoal remains. If there are no ames, something
is wrong.
2. Firebricks in the rebox should be tan in colour, never black.
3. Steel parts in the rebox should be light to dark brown, never black and shiny.
4. With seasoned wood, correct air settings and proper loading arrangement you should expect quick
ignition of a new load of wood - the bottom pieces should be aming by the time the door is closed.
5. The glass door should be clear. A discoloured glass indicates that the wood is too wet or the air control
has not been left open long enough.
6. The exhaust coming from the top of the ue system should be clear or white. A plume of blue or
grey smoke indicates smouldering, inecient combustion, air pollution and probably low operating
temperatures.
Correctly installed and operated, Jayline solid fuel heaters do not spill smoke into the house. There are
three main reasons why some woodstoves smoke:
Bad installation design: Incorrect ue installation, resulting in low ue temperatures and low draught,
can make a wood heater more likely to spill smoke. For example, ue systems that run up the outside
wall of the house and are not correctly insulated can rob the heat from the ue and produce very
little draught. Each elbow in the ue pipe assembly slows down the ow of gases and causes a small
restriction to ow. When a ue system includes more than one elbow, the restriction can be enough to
cause spillage.

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Extreme negative pressure in the house: Energy eciency practices and new building code rules are
making our houses more and more airtight. This makes the houses energy ecient, but also makes them
more sensitive to negative pressure when air is exhausted from the house. Large, fan-forced exhaust
ventilators, like down-draught-type kitchen stove exhausts, can cause extreme negative pressure in
the house when they are operating. Because new houses are tightly sealed, there are few holes to
allow replacement air to enter, and the house pressure becomes negative. This negative pressure works
against ue system draught. In severe cases, the negative pressure in the house overcomes the ue
system draught and the appliance begins to spill smoke, especially when a re is started or when it dies
down to coals. To prevent this extreme negative pressure, one option is to open a window slightly to
allow combustion air into the room.
Improper heater ring technique: When a solid fuel heater is starved for air it smoulders, producing a
relatively cool, smoky re. The temperatures throughout the system are low. During a smouldering re,
the ue system will not be receiving the hot gas it needs to produce strong draught. When the heater
door is opened, smoke will spill into the room. A smouldering re is the single most common reason for
smoke spillage and totally unnecessary. By using the suggestions on proper ring technique earlier in
this document, you will be able to avoid these smouldering res.
PURCHASING THE FIREWOOD
The quality of the rewood you burn can have a dramatic eect on the eciency and operation of the
heater. The main factors that aect the burning characteristics of rewood are moisture content, tree
species and piece size.
The moisture content of the wood aects the rate at which it burns and the eciency of combustion.
When trees are cut, the wood moisture content ranges between 35 and 60 per cent by weight.
If you attempt to burn wood this wet it will be hard to ignite, slow to burn and will hiss and sizzle in
the rebox. So much energy will be consumed in boiling o the excess water that the eciency of
combustion and the heat to your home will be low, condensation and corrosion may be occurring in the
ue and smoke may be causing problems to your neighbours. Properly seasoned wood ignites readily
and burns eciently.
PLEASE NOTE: WOOD WITH A MOISTURE CONTENT OF 10-25% IS THE RECOMMENDED WOOD TO
USE IN CLEAN AIR ZONES
Kiln dried fuel (less than 10%) will not burn for as long as seasoned wood.
Firewood should be cut and split in the early spring and stacked under cover, with good ventilation,
to be ready for burning when required.
Look for checks or cracks in the end grain as a sign of dry wood. The stacks of rewood should be in an
open area so that air can circulate through them. During the summer, as warm breezes ow through the
stacks, carrying away the evaporating water, the moisture content of the wood will fall to around 20 per
cent. At this moisture content the wood is ready for burning.

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Although the energy content of dry wood per kilogram is almost the same regardless of species, some burn
dierently because of dierences in density e.g pine is less dense than woods like gums, Manuka or Black
Wattle. A denser wood will produce a longer-lasting coal bed, while a less dense wood will bring a re to an
optimum burning temperature more quickly.
The size of the rewood pieces aects the rate of combustion. Larger pieces ignite and release their
energy more slowly than small pieces. Smaller pieces are better for short, hot res and larger pieces are
preferable for extended ring cycles. In general, commercial rewood dealers supply rewood in thicker
pieces than modern wood-burning heaters can handle. It is often necessary to split some of the wood
again before using it. The thickest piece size for high-eciency heaters should not exceed about 150mm
(6 in.) across the largest dimension and a range of smaller pieces will be needed for eective stoking.
Maximum log length varies according to model.
BURNING COAL
Due to their construction, the burning of coal in Jayline solid fuel heaters is prohibited. Please also refer
to ‘Exclusions’in the Warranty Page 14.
JAYLINE WOOD FIRE MAINTENANCE
To keep your re burning clean and ecient it is important that you carry out regular maintenance.
General maintenance checks should include the following:-
ASH DRAWER TECHNIQUE
If your re is equipped with the ash drawer feature, this makes cleaning your re quick and simple. Once
the re is cold; use your re poker tool to lift the plug out from the base of the rebox. Sweep the ash
remnants down the hole and into the ashbox below. Attempt to retain an ash bed of 30-40mm in your
rebox (this retains heat, prolongs the life of your rebox, and assists in getting your re up to operating
temperature faster). After lifting the ashbox out of the drawer, close the top cover on the ashbox to
avoid spillage while emptying the ashes.
Once you’ve cleaned your ashbox, ensure the sliding rails of the drawer are free of debris. Replace the
ashbox into the drawer, making sure the lid is in the open position and the ashbox is pushed toward
the rear of the drawer. Close the drawer, clean, then re-t the plug into the base of the rebox. It is
important that the plug does not leak any air after re-tting. Always keep the ashbox and drawer
correctly in place while operating your wood re.
ASH REMOVAL - Due to the high eciency of your Jayline re, ash removal should only be necessary
every few weeks. Ashes can be removed easily through the re door when the re is at its lowest, such as
rst thing in the morning, or when it is completely out. Always use a metal container to remove ash from
your re as ash can maintain high temperatures for several days. Jayline res work best when a small
amount of ash (approximately 40mm deep) is left in the rebox after cleaning. This insulates the bottom
and prevents the base of the rebox overheating and burning out. In fact, building up the ash bed helps
extend the long burn cycle, while reducing the ash bed encourages greater heat output.

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SURFACES - Jayline wood res have high temperature painted surfaces which just need wiping to clean
when the re is cold.
FIREBOX - Check the rebricks, top bae and interior surfaces. These parts are subjected to considerably
high temperatures and stress and some parts will eventually need replacing.
DOORS - Check all gaskets used for wear and replace if necessary. Adjust door tting if required.
LUBRICATION - All moving parts should be lubricated with graphite grease every couple of months.
CHIMNEY CLEANING AND CHECKING FLUES
For all wood res, ue cleaning must be done regularly to avoid serious ue res. Frequently used res
should be cleaned at least once a year (some sooner). The cleaning rate, however, depends on the
burning habits of the individual operating the wood re. For example, it is possible to clog a ue in just a
few weeks if smouldering res are burnt and the ue is run cold.
It is recommended that ue sweeping be done by a professional chimney sweep. Chimney sweeping is a
specialist task and competent professional sweeps are available throughout the country. When the ue
is cleaned it is recommended that other parts, such as baes, are checked.
Flue systems should be checked at least once or twice a heating season. Flue systems may require
checking more often if the fuel or operation of the appliance is incorrect. When a ue system becomes
excessively blocked or requires frequent cleaning, advice should be sought to investigate the installation
and the operation of the re. Flue pipes can deteriorate very quickly with incorrect ring.
CONSUMABLES
Some parts of your Jayline re are considered consumable. They are designed to be replaced as they will
degrade over time. The life of the consumables will vary depending on;
• Frequency of use. How often the re is used
• Rate of burn. Is the re burning on low or high the majority of the time
• Type of fuel. Some woods are much harsher than others
General items that are considered consumables:
• Baes
• Fire bricks
• Air tubes
• Glass and door ropes

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APRIL 2018
It is very important that you replace these parts when they show sign of wear. They eect how the re
runs and you may increase your fuel consumption or lower your eciency if not replaced, and can in
some cases, damage the rebox. It is generally obvious once a part is in need of replacement. Steel
components may split or large holes may appear, re bricks may crack and disintegrate. We recommend
you check your re visually several times a year for damaged components.
WARNINGS
Below is a list of warnings to ensure ecient and safe operation of your Jayline wood re:
• WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
• WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS IN THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE
WHEN IT IS OPERATING.
• WARNING: DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN APPLIANCE INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
• WARNING: OPEN AIR CONTROL BEFORE OPENING FIRE DOOR.
• CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
• CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE
WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
• CAUTION: THE USE OF PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD OR DRIFTWOOD AS A FUEL CAN BE
HAZARDOUS.

page 15www.jayline.co.nz
APRIL 2018
JAYLINE FIRE WARRANTY
THIS IS AN IMPORTANT DOCUMENT - KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE
CONGRATULATIONS!
We appreciate your decision to invest in our product. Your re will become an integral part of your
lifestyle, heating your home during the colder months and at the same time maintaining its appearance
as a quality appliance. We want you to get the best possible performance from your re and for this
reason ask that you read this booklet carefully to take full advantage of your warranty.
In particular we urge you to have your re and ue inspected annually and the ue swept if necessary.
At the same time any other minor potential problems can be detected and corrected before they turn
into major ones.
We think this is a small price to pay to ensure your heater is kept in peak condition. There is no doubt in
our minds that you will extend the life of your re.
We select only certain companies to act as our Jayline dealers. They must have high standards and be
able to provide a total service both pre and post sale to you the customer. Therefore we have every
condence that our dealers will be able to answer your questions or x any problem that may occur. If
you have any further queries, please contact us at:
RETAIL LINKS
PO BOX 9056
ANNESBROOK, NELSON
NEW ZEALAND, 7044
FAX: [phone]
EMAIL: inf[email protected]o.nz
Thanks again for choosing a Jayline wood re.
We wish you many warm winters to come!

page 16www.jayline.co.nz
APRIL 2018
JAYLINE WOOD FIRE WARRANTY
15 YEARS (conditional)
Congratulations on the purchase of your Jayline Wood re. You must register your re by email or post
within 30 days of installation to validate the guarantee (this registration card is in your install/operation
guide).
Your rebox is guaranteed for domestic application against faults and defects in workmanship for
a period of fteen years (except for door seals, glass, glass seals, re bricks, secondary air systems
and bae - which have 12months parts only cover). This rebox cover is subject to proof of annual
inspection and servicing by a suitably qualied re technician.
Your re must be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, any relevant bylaws,
standards and regulations. Jayline are not responsible for consequential damage by a failure or defect
covered in this guarantee. All claims (in the rst instance) should be directed to the store of purchase.
Any repairs undertaken without the manufacturer’s authority will render the guarantee void. Water
boosters must be a Jayline model specied with the re to be covered; this guarantee applies to the
original purchaser only.
Any damage caused by mishandling, misuse, abuse or alteration is not covered by this guarantee neither
is normal wear and tear. Accessories such as ues, non-genuine parts or any third-party service are not
covered by this manufacturer guarantee.
In the event of an approved claim; Jayline will complete repairs or replacement (at their discretion) and
return the product to the owner. Any claim which can be remedied by on-site repair will be solely at
Jayline’s discretion and arrangement. Jayline are not responsible for site conditions such as draughts,
cleaning or environmental conditions aecting performance.
For easy support on best use, troubleshooting and optional accessories; please see www.jayline.co.nz for
further details and online product registration.
Jayline Fires
PO Box 9056
Annesbrook – 7044
Nelson
[e-mail]

page 17www.jayline.co.nz
APRIL 2018
To ensure many years of performance and safety with your Jayline Fire, we have outlined the key
servicing requirements that form part of routine annual servicing. Maintenance of parts that protect
your rebox will extend the life of your re, ensuring it burns clean and correctly. In the event the
rebox is not maintained regularly, this will void the warranty and compromise future claims.
Every season following your re installation, ensure your re service technician checks the following
points and performs a sweep. In the event you need to claim on your warranty; this evidence of your
routine servicing will be requested to validate your claim
• sweep the chimney
• check the condition of the re box
• check or replace the rebricks if necessary
• check combustion plates and replace if necessary
• check and replace air tubes if required
• check and replace glass and door seals if necessary
• check door seal and alter if not sealing correctly
• check installation if necessary, correct length of ue, fallout faults, ashing or other leaks, ue
being riveted correctly, ue joins sealed and xed to appliance, overall operation of appliance with
homeowner
• order parts and t to appliance
• notify homeowner of all ndings and invoice accurately for all work carried out
I conrm that the appliance has been checked and repaired to a safe and correct operating standard
as per the manufacturer’s best practise recommendations above:
JAYLINE WOOD FIRE - SERVICE REGISTER
Jayline recommends NZHHA registered service technicians
Interval Service Agent Signature Phone Date
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.

page 18www.jayline.co.nz
APRIL 2018
PRODUCT REGISTRATION
TO ACTIVATE YOUR 15 YEAR WARRANTY, PLEASE COMPLETE AND RETURN WITHIN
30 DAYS OF INSTALLATION TO:
RETAIL LINKS LTD
PO BOX 9056
ANNESBROOK, 7044
NELSON
NAME: ________________________________________________________________________
ADDRESS: ____________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
EMAIL: ________________________________________ PHONE: ________________________
MODEL: ______________________________________________________________________
SERIAL NUMBER: ______________________________________________________________
DATE PURCHASED: ____________________________________________________________
PURCHASED FROM: ____________________________________________________________
DATE INSTALLED: ______________________________________________________________
INSTALLED BY: ________________________________________________________________
Or complete your product registration online
www.jayline.co.nz/manuals-technical/#register
15
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