JAYLINE IS550 Installation instructions

January 2015
JAYLINE IS550
INSERT WOOD FIRE
INSTALLATION & OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

January 2015 page 2www.jayline.co.nz
Congratulations on the purchase of your Jayline wood re.
Please read this installation and operation manual carefully.
The installation of this re must comply with the Installation Standard
AS/NZS 2918:2001 as well as any additional local requirements.
Please ensure you have all relevant permits prior to installation.
Keep this booklet as a reference guide.
INSTALLATION OF YOUR JAYLINE WOOD FIRE
Jayline recommends you use a suitably qualied installation technician to install your re. Your dealer
or heating specialist will be able to help with recommendations as well as advise on permits/consents
required for the installation in your area.
Please follow carefully all dimensions and recommendations provided on the individual specication
sheet for your model of heater as these dimensions comply with the required New Zealand standard
(AS/NZS 2918:2001).
As safety and emissions performance can be aected by altering the appliance, no modications are
allowed without the written permission from the manufacturer.
PRE-INSTALLATION
Prior to installing your Jayline Insert into a replace cavity, it is important that certain clearances and
other requirements are complied with as detailed below:
FIREPLACE CAVITY
* The chimney must be swept.
* Check for cracks and overall condition. If repairs are necessary, they must be carried out by a
suitably qualied technician.
* Check the cavity dimensions to ensure the insert will t. It is usually necessary to remove the bricks
from the lower replace cavity.
* The base of the replace on which the Jayline Insert will rest must be level. If not, it should be
leveled using mortar.
* If a timber or combustible mantle shelf exists above the replace opening, it should be a minimum
distance above the top of the oor protector. The minimum distance is 1175mm. If less than the
minimum specied, a deector or heat shield will be required to be under the mantle shelf.

January 2015 page 3www.jayline.co.nz
Installation requirements for Jayline IS550 replace insert and ue system, where timber framing
is less than 50mm from the chimney structure.
The installation should be carried out by a suitably qualied installation technician who will ensure the
following:
* The minimum clearances determined by tests in accordance with AS/NZS 2918:2001 are complied
with to prevent overheating of nearby combustibles.
* The minimum opening size of 590mm wide x 570mm high x 481mm deep is available when the
rebricks are removed. These measurements exclude the 30mm insulating blanket tted to the
sides, back & top of the outer casing. Please make an allowance for the blanket, as it must be used
to ensure maximum eciency.
* If the replace opening is in a heat sensitive wall, a non-metallic heat resistant material shall
extend not less than 50mm beyond each side of the appliance and 150mm beyond the top of
the appliance.
* A clearance of at least 1 metre between the front of the appliance and building structure, or any
other substantial immovable object.
* The ash oor protector of non-combustible material is provided, extending not less than the
dimensions shown in the specication sheets for this appliance.
* A replace shall not be connected to a ue common with an open replace.
* The ue pipe must be tted up to, and above the chimney top. The space between the ue pipe
and the chimney must be vented at the top. The area of this vent must not be less than 10,000mm².
The vent must be tted with means to prevent signicant water and debris from entering the cavity,
or vent area. The ue must be free to move up & down 25mm or more due to the expansion and
contraction of the ue under normal use.
* Seismic restraints consisting of two M6 x 50mm dynabolts (or equivalent) are tted through
the front edge of the outer cabinet base brackets, and into the masonry base below, before the
fascia is tted.
INSTALLATION
Establish the masonry cavity is suitable as above.
* Unpack the re box / outer casing and fascia and check there is no damage.
* Read the specication sheets and installation instructions.
* With the top front outer case panel removed, and the door removed, slide the re box / outer case
into the prepared cavity and centralise (including the outer case insulating blanket).
* Ensure the folded edges of the outer case are ush with the front of the cavity, allowing for any
breglass seal that may be required as an air seal between the fascia and masonry.
* The S/S ue pipes must be sealed & fastened with at least 3 x S/S rivets each (follow the ue
manufacturer’s instructions) .
* Lower the ue system down the cavity and into the ue spigot using a hi-temp sealant (an oset
may be required in some cases).
* Drill and secure the ue pipe into the ue spigot using a S/S self-tapping screw.
* Re-check the outer case is still ush with the front of the cavity, then drill & secure the seismic
restraints as above.

January 2015 page 4www.jayline.co.nz
* Re-t the top front outer case panel (including the top insulating blanket).
* Prior to tting the fascia, remove any combustible packaging that may have entered the cavity or
outer casing while installing the rebox into place.
* Do not lift the fascia with your ngers under the louvres.
* The fascia is tted to the rebox outer casing, by pressing the fascia onto the ball studs tted to the
outer casing.
* Remove the packaging that holds the bae in place.
* Re-t the door.
* Fit the control knob and ensure a smooth operation.
Remember:
• The ue pipe penetrating the chimney must continue to the minimum length of 4.6m from the top
of the oor protector to the cowl.
• Flue exiting more than 3 metres from the ridgeline must terminate no less than 1 metre above the
roof penetration (see diagram 1 below).
• Where the top of the ue pipe is more than 2 metres above its highest xing point, it must be stayed
against high winds.
FITTING SEISMIC RESTRAINT
The Floor Protector must be mechanically xed to the oor by bolting or screwing.
Note: Floor Protector to be xed by gluing when on a concrete oor that may have water pipes or electrical
wires present. The appliance can then be bolted to the oor protector with two 6mm x 50mm dynabolts
(or equivalent).
BAFFLE
Before lighting your appliance for the rst time, make sure the bae is in the correct position being as
far to the rear as possible.

January 2015 page 5www.jayline.co.nz
WARNINGS
1. WARNING: THE HEATER AND FLUE SYSTEM SHALL BE INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH
AS/NZS 2918:2001 AND THE APPROPRIATE REQUIREMENTS OF THE RELEVANT BUILDING
CODE OR CODES.
2. WARNING: APPLIANCES INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THIS STANDARD SHALL COMPLY WITH
THE REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 4013:1999 WHERE REQUIRED BY THE REGULATORY AUTHORITY,
i.e. THE APPLIANCE SHALL BE IDENTIFIABLE BY A COMPLIANCE PLATE WITH THE MARKING‘TESTED
TO AS/NZS 4013:1999. ANY MODIFICATION OF THE HEATER THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED TO BE IN BREACH OF THE APPROVAL
GRANTED FOR COMPLIANCE WITH AN/NZS 4013:1999.
3. PLEASE ENSURE THAT ONLY COMPONENTS APPROVED BY JAYLINE ARE USED FOR THE
INSTALLATION as substitutes may adversely aect performance and might nullify compliance with
the requirements of AS/NZS 2918:2001.
CAUTION: MIXING OF HEATER OR FLUE SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES
OR MODIFYING THE DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATION OF COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS
CONDITIONS. WHERE SUCH ACTION IS CONSIDERED, THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE CONSULTED
IN THE FIRST INSTANCE.
4. CAUTION: CRACKED AND BROKEN COMPONENTS, e.g. GLASS PANELS OR CERAMIC BRICKS MAY
RENDER THE INSTALLATION UNSAFE.
Any variation from these installation instructions or any doubts about them must be checked against
the requirements of the AS/NZS 2918:2001.

January 2015 page 6www.jayline.co.nz
CORRECT OPERATION OF YOUR JAYLINE WOOD FIRE
Simply by burning your Jayline re correctly, you can improve eciency, reduce fuel consumption
and minimise air pollution.
Please note: Wood with a moisture content of 25% or less is the only approved wood to use in Clean Air
Zones. Only softwoods should be used in the Canterbury Clean Air Zones.
STARTING A NEW FIRE
Please note: If lighting the re for the rst time, dust re, glass, trim and ue before ring to avoid
particles sticking or discolouring. Once red, some smoke and vapour will be released as the VHT
painted surfaces enter the nal curing process. Open all windows and doors while running the re on
high for up to 3 hours. People with respiratory, heart or other relevant medical conditions should avoid
inhaling vapours during the curing process. All VHT paint will cure at the highest temperature achieved
and will produce smoke again if this temperature is exceeded.
To start and maintain a good re you will need the following ingredients:
1. A small quantity of newspaper (do not use coloured or coated paper);
2. A packet of relighters (optional)
3. A quantity of nely split, dry soft wood kindling in a variety of sizes; and
4. Seasoned rewood split into a range of piece sizes.
The rst step is to crumple half a dozen sheets of
newspaper and put them just inside the rebox. The
amount of newspaper you need will depend on the
rebox size, and the dryness and neness of the kindling
you are using. The drier and ner the kindling, the less
newspaper you need. Many people make the mistake
of using too little newspaper. Be generous with the
newspaper and you will have more success. Putting
some relighter halves under the newspaper can
also help sustain rebox temperature until the wood
is burning.
On top of the paper place 10 to 15 pieces of nely split,
dry kindling. Softwoods, such as cedar or pine, make
good kindling. Ideally, the kindling should be placed on
the newspaper so that the combustion air reaches the
newspaper fast where you ignite it. It is also a good idea
to add two or three very small pieces of rewood to the
kindling load before lighting.
+
92
590
855
481
685
482
570
58
measurements exclude insulating blanket
105
TO BUILD A QUICK, HOT FIRE
Use plenty of crumpled newspaper
and dry, nely-split kindling. Set the air
control fully open. Light the newspaper
near where the combustion air enters
the rebox. When a kindling re is built
properly, you should expect fast ignition
and no smouldering.

January 2015 page 7www.jayline.co.nz
Set the air control to fully open, light the relighters or the newspaper and close but do not latch the
door. After about 5-10 minutes, when the wood is aming brightly, latch the door (some longer ue
installations may require door to be left unlatched for up to 15 minutes until the ue system is warm
and producing strong draught. Since leaving the door open slightly can cause dangerously high
temperatures, never leave the woodstove unattended while starting the re.
When the ames from the kindling load just begin to subside, add several small pieces of rewood. Try
to avoid smothering the re with the new pieces. Placing the pieces on the burning kindling can help
prevent smothering. Your Jayline heater requires approximately 45-60 minutes to preheat the steel
rebox before it can eectively emit heat into the room. A well maintained, hot re will reduce the
preheat cycle.
REKINDLING A FIRE FROM CHARCOAL OR EMBERS
Embers found at the back of the rebox should be raked
evenly around the re box. If only a small amount of
embers remain, you will have to start with kindling. If
there is a good quantity of glowing embers to work with,
place at least three, and preferably more than ve pieces
of small rewood on the embers. Open the air inlets
fully and close the door.
If everything is just right, fast ignition of the new load
should be expected. Allow the re to burn with bright
turbulent ames until the wood is completely alight. This
usually takes between 15 and 30 minutes, depending
on the size of the pieces and the moisture content of
the wood. When the wood is burning well, reduce the
air setting to produce the amount of heat and length
of burn desired. Reducing the air control setting in two
or three stages will result in less air pollution because
the re will not have to recover from the single, large
reduction in air supply.
The most important rule is NEVER LET THE FIRE SMOULDER. As long as there is solid wood in the
rebox, there must be ames present or the unburned gases will escape, both reducing eciency and
increasing air pollution.
Always open the re door slowly to allow fresh air to enter and maintain the smoke path. If you open
the door too quickly, smoke can pu out.
TO REKINDLE A FIRE FROM HOT COALS
Rake the charcoal evenly. Place small
pieces of wood on and behind the coals.
Open the air inlets fully and leave them
open until the pieces of wood are well
charred. This illustration shows the
arrangement of pieces for an extended re.
+
92
590
855
481
685
482
570
58
measurements exclude insulating blanket
105

January 2015 page 8www.jayline.co.nz
SOME OTHER USEFUL TIPS
Fuel load geometry: Small pieces of rewood arranged loosely in
a crisscross pattern (loaded front to back) burn quickly because the
combustion air can reach all the pieces at once. Larger pieces placed
a little more compactly burn slower. Once your heater has reached
maximum temperature, it is more ecient to top up frequently with
about 25% of a full load rather than let the re die down and need to
completely rell it.
A STACKED FUEL LOAD
(AS vIEwED FROM DOOR)
Fire in cycles: Don’t expect perfectly steady heat output from your Jayline heater. Solid fuel heaters
burn in cycles. A cycle is the time between the ignition of a load from charcoal and the consumption of
the load back to a coal bed. Plan the ring cycles around your household routine. If someone is home
to operate the heater, build a small hot re. If you must be away from the house during the day, build a
long-burning re.
The small, hot re: A small, hot re is a small amount of wood burned quickly. Use it when you just want
to take the chill o the house. The small hot re technique eliminates the smouldering res that are
common when people don’t need their heater running hot all the time, like in spring and autumn. To
build a small hot re, rake the embers evenly in the rebox and place several small pieces of rewood on
it. The bottom layer should be placed to ensure that combustion air can ow over the embers and along
the length of the pieces of wood (loaded front to back). The next layer should be stacked as per the
loading geometry. Open the air inlet to produce a hot, bright re. After approximately 15–20 minutes
the air supply can be reduced slightly as the re progresses, but never enough to extinguish the ames.
When only charcoal remains, the air supply can be reduced further to prevent cooling the ember bed.
Reload with small pieces often (loaded front to back), as full loads will smother the ember bed.
The long-burning re: To achieve a long burning re, rake the embers evenly, as with the small hot re,
and use larger and more pieces of wood. Place the pieces in a similar pattern to the small hot re, using
more pieces and larger pieces (especially the top layer). Always make certain that there is a gap between
the pieces to ensure that the combustion air can reach all pieces. Open the air inlets fully for between
15 to 30 minutes depending on load size and fuel moisture content. When the re is burning ercely (at
least 15 minutes), reduce the air control in stages to the desired level. This allows you to turn down the
air control and still maintain a clean-burning re.
REMEMBER: NEVER LET THE FIRE SMOULDER.

January 2015 page 9www.jayline.co.nz
Preventing creosote build-up: Creosote is a tar-like substance that builds up when the organic
compounds in smoke condense onto cooler ue surfaces. Left to build up over time, creosote will
restrict the airow of the ue and impair the performance of your heater. The production of smoke
is at its highest when a fresh fuel load is added or when the air control is at its lowest position. The
most eective way to control the creosote formation is to burn the heater so as to ensure as complete
combustion as possible and at the same time promoting higher ue temperatures. Smouldering res
should always be avoided.
The amount of charcoal in the ash is often a good indicator of how well you are operating the heater.
If there is no charcoal and only very ne ash, then you are doing an excellent job. If there is a lot of
charcoal you may be turning the combustion air down too soon after refuelling, or not raking the
charcoal to the combustion air inlet, or turning the combustion air down too low to support ecient
combustion, or all of the above.
REMEMBER: THE HOTTER THE FIRE, THE LESS CREOSOTE FORMATION.
When you have mastered the techniques for ecient wood burning, here is what you should see:
1. When wood burns it should be aming until only charcoal remains. If there are no ames,
something is wrong.
2. Firebricks in the rebox should be tan in colour, never black.
3. Steel parts in the rebox should be light to dark brown, never black and shiny.
4. With seasoned wood, correct air settings and proper loading arrangement you should expect quick
ignition of a new load of wood - the bottom pieces should be aming by the time the door is closed.
5. The glass door should be clear. A discoloured glass indicates that the wood is too wet or the air
control has not been left open long enough.
6. The exhaust coming from the top of the ue system should be clear or white. A plume of blue
or grey smoke indicates smouldering, inecient combustion, air pollution and probably low
operating temperatures.

January 2015 page 10www.jayline.co.nz
Correctly installed and operated, Jayline solid fuel heaters do not spill smoke into the house. There are
three main reasons why some woodstoves smoke:
Bad installation design: Incorrect ue installation, resulting in low ue temperatures and low draught,
can make a wood heater more likely to spill smoke. For example, each elbow in the ue pipe assembly
slows down the ow of gases and causes a small restriction to ow. When a ue system includes more
than one elbow, the restriction can be enough to cause spillage.
Extreme negative pressure in the house: Energy eciency practices and new building code rules are
making our houses more and more airtight. This makes the houses energy ecient, but also makes them
more sensitive to negative pressure when air is exhausted from the house. Large, fan-forced exhaust
ventilators, like down-draught-type kitchen stove exhausts, can cause extreme negative pressure in
the house when they are operating. Because new houses are tightly sealed, there are few holes to
allow replacement air to enter, and the house pressure becomes negative. This negative pressure works
against ue system draught. In severe cases, the negative pressure in the house overcomes the ue
system draught and the appliance begins to spill smoke, especially when a re is started or when it dies
down to coals. To prevent this extreme negative pressure, one option is to open a window slightly to
allow combustion air into the room.
Improper heater ring technique: When a solid fuel heater is starved for air it smoulders, producing a
relatively cool, smoky re. The temperatures throughout the system are low. During a smouldering re,
the ue system will not be receiving the hot gas it needs to produce strong draught. When the heater
door is opened, smoke will spill into the room. A smouldering re is the single most common reason for
smoke spillage and totally unnecessary. By using the suggestions on proper ring technique earlier in
this document, you will be able to avoid these smouldering res.

January 2015 page 11www.jayline.co.nz
PURCHASING THE FIREWOOD
The quality of the rewood you burn can have a dramatic eect on the eciency and operation of the
heater. The main factors that aect the burning characteristics of rewood are moisture content, tree
species and piece size.
The moisture content of the wood aects the rate at which it burns and the eciency of combustion.
When trees are cut, the wood moisture content ranges between 35 and 60 per cent by weight. If
you attempt to burn wood this wet it will be hard to ignite, slow to burn and will hiss and sizzle in
the rebox. So much energy will be consumed in boiling o the excess water that the eciency of
combustion and the heat to your home will be low, condensation and corrosion may be occurring in the
ue and smoke may be causing problems to your neighbours. Properly seasoned wood ignites readily
and burns eciently.
PLEASE NOTE: WOOD WITH A MOISTURE CONTENT OF 25% OR LESS IS THE ONLY APPROVED
WOOD TO USE IN CLEAN AIR ZONES.
ONLY SOFTWOODS SHOULD BE USED IN THE CANTERBURY CLEAN AIR ZONES.
Firewood should be cut and split in the early spring and stacked under cover, with good
ventilation, to be ready for burning when required.
Look for checks or cracks in the end grain as a sign of dry wood. The stacks of rewood should be in an
open area so that air can circulate through them. During the summer, as warm breezes ow through the
stacks, carrying away the evaporating water, the moisture content of the wood will fall to around 20 per
cent. At this moisture content the wood is ready for burning.
Although the energy content of dry wood per kilogram is almost the same regardless of species, some
burn dierently because of dierences in density e.g pine is less dense than woods like gums, Manuka
or Black Wattle. A denser wood will produce a longer-lasting coal bed, while a less dense wood will bring
a re to an optimum burning temperature more quickly.
The size of the rewood pieces aects the rate of combustion. Larger pieces ignite and release their
energy more slowly than small pieces. Smaller pieces are better for short, hot res and larger pieces are
preferable for extended ring cycles. In general, commercial rewood dealers supply rewood in thicker
pieces than modern wood-burning heaters can handle. It is often necessary to split some of the wood
again before using it. The thickest piece size for high-eciency heaters should not exceed about 150mm
(6 in.) across the largest dimension and a range of smaller pieces will be needed for eective stoking.
Maximum log length varies according to model.
BURNING COAL
Due to their construction, the burning of coal in Jayline solid fuel heaters is prohibited. Please also refer
to ‘Exclusions’ in the Warranty Page 16.

January 2015 page 12www.jayline.co.nz
JAYLINE WOOD FIRE MAINTENANCE
To keep your re burning clean and ecient it is important that you carry out regular maintenance.
General maintenance checks should include the following:-
ASH REMOVAL – Due to the high eciency of your Jayline re, ash removal should only be necessary
every few weeks. Ashes can be removed easily through the re door when the re is at its lowest, such as
rst thing in the morning, or when it is completely out. Always use a metal container to remove ash from
your re as ash can maintain high temperatures for several days. Jayline res work best when a small
amount of ash (approximately 20mm deep) is left in the rebox after cleaning. This insulates the bottom
and prevents the base of the rebox overheating and burning out. In fact, building up the ash bed helps
extend the long burn cycle, while reducing the ash bed encourages greater heat output.
SURFACES – Jayline wood res have high temperature painted surfaces which just need wiping to clean
when the re is cold.
FIREBOX – Check the rebricks, top bae and interior surfaces. These parts are subjected to
considerably high temperatures and stress and some parts will eventually need replacing.
DOORS – Check all gaskets used for wear and replace if necessary. Adjust door tting if required.
LUBRICATION – All moving parts should be lubricated with graphite grease every couple of months.
REMOVAL OF FASCIA FOR CLEANING – The fascia is held on to the re box outer case by 4 ball studs,
that are all pushed into locating holes and clips. It is important to remove the fascia carefully so as not
to scratch the hi-temp paint. Instructions on how to do this follow:
* Remove the air control knob by jiggling side to side while pulling.
* The fascia only needs to come out by 10-20mm so to do this, leave the rebox door closed, place
both hands under one side of the ash lip and pull rmly, then pull the other side. Be sure not to pull
too far, as you only need to unlock the ball studs.
* Once the bottom studs are free, place your ngers behind the fascia near the top at each side and
pull toward you – again only 10-20mm.
* Now the fascia is unlocked from the ball studs you will need to open the re box door so the handle
won’t damage the paint on the fascia as you take it away from the rebox.
* Now the fascia is o, remove any items that should not be around the rebox (a torch will help you
see into the dark space), then vacuum away any dust and debris etc.
* Re-install the Fascia in the reverse order and give the fascia a rm push at all 4 corners to ensure a
secure t.

January 2015 page 13www.jayline.co.nz
CHIMNEY CLEANING AND CHECKING FLUES
For all wood res, ue cleaning must be done regularly to avoid serious ue res. Frequently used res
should be cleaned at least once a year (some sooner). The cleaning rate, however, depends on the
burning habits of the individual operating the wood re. For example, it is possible to clog a ue in just a
few weeks if smouldering res are burnt and the ue is run cold.
It is recommended that ue sweeping be done by a professional chimney sweep. Chimney sweeping is a
specialist task and competent professional sweeps are available throughout the country. When the ue
is cleaned it is recommended that other parts, such as baes, are checked.
Flue systems should be checked at least once or twice a heating season. Flue systems may require
checking more often if the fuel or operation of the appliance is incorrect. When a ue system becomes
excessively blocked or requires frequent cleaning, advice should be sought to investigate the installation
and the operation of the re. Flue pipes can deteriorate very quickly with incorrect ring.
CONSUMABLES
Some parts of your Jayline re are considered consumable. They are designed to be replaced as they will
degrade over time. The life of the consumables will vary depending on;
• Frequency of use. How often the re is used
• Rate of burn. Is the re burning on low or high the majority of the time
• Type of fuel. Some woods are much harsher than others
• Level of ash. High levels of ash can push embers up and over rear air tubes
General items that are considered consumables:
• Baes
• Fire bricks
• Air tubes
• Glass and door ropes
It is very important that you replace these parts when they show sign of wear. They eect how the re
runs and you may increase your fuel consumption or lower your eciency if not replaced, and can in
some cases, damage the rebox. It is generally obvious once a part is in need of replacement. Steel
components may split or large holes may appear, re bricks may crack and disintegrate. We recommend
you check your re visually several times a year for damaged components.

January 2015 page 14www.jayline.co.nz
WARNINGS
Below is a list of warnings to ensure ecient and safe operation of your Jayline wood re:
• WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
• WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS IN THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE
WHEN IT IS OPERATING.
• WARNING: DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN APPLIANCE INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
• WARNING: OPEN AIR CONTROL BEFORE OPENING FIRE DOOR.
• CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
• CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
• CAUTION: THE USE OF PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD OR DRIFTWOOD AS A FUEL CAN
BE HAZARDOUS.

January 2015 page 15www.jayline.co.nz
JAYLINE FIRE WARRANTY
THIS IS AN IMPORTANT DOCUMENT – KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE
CONGRATULATIONS!
We appreciate your decision to invest in our product. Your re will become an integral part of your
lifestyle, heating your home during the colder months and at the same time maintaining its appearance
as a quality appliance. We want you to get the best possible performance from your re and for this
reason ask that you read this booklet carefully to take full advantage of your warranty.
In particular we urge you to have your re and ue inspected annually and the ue swept if necessary.
At the same time any other minor potential problems can be detected and corrected before they turn
into major ones.
We think this is a small price to pay to ensure your heater is kept in peak condition. There is no doubt in
our minds that you will extend the life of your re.
We select only certain companies to act as our Jayline dealers. They must have high standards and be
able to provide a total service both pre and post sale to you the customer. Therefore we have every
condence that our dealers will be able to answer your questions or x any problem that may occur.
If you have any further queries, please contact us at:
RETAIL LINKS
P O BOX 9056
ANNESBROOK, NELSON
NEW ZEALAND
FAX: [phone]
EMAIL: inf[email protected]o.nz
Thanks again for choosing a Jayline wood re.
We wish you many warm winters to come!

January 2015 page 16www.jayline.co.nz
JAYLINE WOOD FIRE WARRANTY
10 YEARS (conditional)
Standard Warranty
This appliance is warranted for ten years*, with the exception of the following: - door seal, glass, glass
seal, rebricks, secondary air systems, and removable bae which will have a twelve month warranty
(parts only), provided it has been installed by a suitably qualied installation technician.
Conditions
The appliance must be installed in accordance with the manufacturers’instructions and all relevant
standards, regulations and by-laws. The company is not liable for any consequential damage by a failure
or defect covered by this warranty. All claims against this warranty must be directed rst to the retailer
of the store. Any repairs undertaken without the written authority of the Manufacturer will invalidate
this warranty.
The warranty is only valid to the initial purchaser of the product.
Exclusions
This warranty does not cover damage caused by:
• Mishandling, misuse, abuse, alteration.
• Normal wear and tear.
• Work done by others such as installers, plumbers or chimney sweeps.
• The burning of household rubbish, coal, particle board or the like, salt laden driftwood or any
chemically treated wood or fuel of any kind.
• Other products such as ues or non genuine replacement parts.
The warranty does not cover delivery of the defective part to the dealer or its reinstallation following
repair or replacement.
The manufacturer is not responsible for site conditions such as draughts, cleaning and servicing.
Procedure
If a defect occurs, contact your dealer and the part will be repaired or replaced at our option.
Transferability
This warranty is non transferable.
It is recommended you have your dealer inspect your appliance annually during the warranty period.
JAYLINE reserves the right to change specications or design of its product without prior notice.

WARRANTY CARD
PLEASE COMPLETE AND RETURN WITHIN 30 DAYS OF INSTALLATION TO:
RETAIL LINKS LTD
PO BOX 9056
ANNESBROOK, 7044
NELSON
NAME: ________________________________________________________________________
ADDRESS: ____________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
EMAIL: ________________________________________ PHONE: ________________________
MODEL: ______________________________________________________________________
SERIAL NUMBER: ______________________________________________________________
DATE PURCHASED: ____________________________________________________________
PURCHASED FROM: ____________________________________________________________
DATE INSTALLED: ______________________________________________________________
INSTALLED BY: ________________________________________________________________
January 2015 www.jayline.co.nz