JOLIN LAB TABOR User manual

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TABØR
smd pre-soldered build guide
∞
Hi fellow!
Just a quick intro before starting,
Materials to have near you:
1. Soldering Iron - better with temperature control
2. Solder wire
3. A pair of tweezers
4. Multimeter
5. Cutter
6. Solder sucker / wick (optional)
7. Silicone soldering mat (optional)
8. Helping hands (optional)
9. Flux (optional)
If you want to refresh yourself a bit about soldering stuff you can watch this video
1
by GreatScott!
Another tool that can help you finding the components on the boards is the interactive BOM linked
here:
tinyurl.com/taborsmdbom
Download it and open the .html file with a browser. You can use it to check where a component is
located on the board. Works also offline.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxMV6wGS3NY

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now let’s begin starting from the bottom layer
(the side where TABØR is written in the upper right corner)
transistors:
Remove the middle leg of the transistors (pin 2: the base).
tip: you can gently move it back and forth until it breaks,
or you can cut it - the shortest possible - with the cutter.
The “D” shape white symbol on the PCB needs to be
aligned with the “D” shape of the transistor’s body.
5
Q1, Q2, Q4, Q6, Q7
BC337
trimmer:
This trimmer regulates the NM output level. Any value around 20k - 50k
will do.
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NM1
20k
eurorack power socket:
Place the socket matching the drawing on the PCB. Be careful with the
notch direction.
tip: solder one pin and check. If the socked is aligned with the PCB
solder all the other pins.
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J101
EURORACK_HEADER
vactrols:
Match the short leg of the vactrol with the squared solder pad on the PCB.
tip: it’s easier to bend at 90° degree all the four legs before trying
to fit the vactrol in place.
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U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, U8, U11
VTL5C1

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now flip the board (front layer):
LEDs:
Short leg goes into the square pin (bottom).
Remember that Y stays for yellow LEDs, R for red, G for green
and B for blue
tip: the closer to the PCB, the more they will be diffused
on the panel’s hollow window.
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D21
Y_3mm
1
D22
R_3mm
1
D16
G_5mm
1
D14
Y_5mm
1
D3
R_5mm
2
D19, D20
B_5mm
front panel components:
Wait to solder them: just place all of them in the right place and move to the next step.
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1F1, 2F1, 2M1, 1M1
50k (6.35mm round shaft)
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4F1, 4M1
10k (6.35mm round shaft)
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J2, J3, J4, J5, J6, J7, J8, J9, J10, J11, J12, J13
PJ398SM aka “Thonkiconn”

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At last, put the panel on - check its direction - tighten the nuts.
Then solder all the front panel components.
tip: we are soldering them now to ensure that all the mechanical parts are
aligned with the panel.
Before powering it up:
•Check the power header for shorts with the multimeter.
tip: follow this tutorial
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by Quincas Moreira - aka SynthDiyGuy if you have any doubts on
how to perform this procedure.
•Mind the polarity on the header socket of your PSU, remember that red line is -12v
How to check if the module is doing its things properly?
•Play a bit with the knobs until you are sure that all the 7 LEDs light up correctly
•Blue LEDs are on regardless of the RM input
•All the three outputs are working (play with the knobs if the TR out is silent)
done! enjoy your newborn
TABØR
find us:
web www.jolinlab.com
e-mail jolin[email protected]
Instagram @jolinlab
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qS0SoIiiQCo