JUKI HZL-30Z User manual

Portable Zigzag Sewing Machine
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
HZL-30Z / HZL-60
®
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“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
“When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:”
“Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.”
“DANGER_____To reduce the risk of electric shock:”
1. “An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric
outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.”
2. “Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.”
“WARNING_____To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:”
1. “Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.”
2. “Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended
by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.”
3. “Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped
or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for
examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.”
4. “Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine
and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.”
5. “Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.”
6. “Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.”
7. “Do not use bent needles.”
8. “Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.”
9. “Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading
needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot and the like.”
10. “Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making
any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.”
11. “Never drop or insert any object into any opening.”
12. “Do not use outdoors.”
13. “Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.”
14. “To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.”
15. “Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.”
“SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS”
“This sewing machine is intended for household use only.”
Use only foot controller with your HZL-30Z/HZL-60.
Be sure to turn power switch OFF and disconnect
the plug from the wall outlet before replacing the
sewing machine needle or lubricating the machine.
When not in use, be sure to turn power switch
OFF and unplug the machine.
Do not use thinner or other similar solvents to clean
the machine. Do not expose the machine to direct sunlight or humid atmosphere.
1
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CONTENTS
Important safeguards ··········································· 1
Accessories ·························································· 2
Principal parts ······················································ 3,4
Major functions ···················································· 5,6
Winding the bobbin ············································· 7,8
Threading the machine ······································ 9,10
Changing the presser feet ··································· 11
How to remove and insert the needle ················· 11
Types of feet and their application ····················· 12
How to adjust thread tension ····························· 13
Stitch length of each stitch pattern ····················· 13
Fabric, thread and needle table ·························· 13
Straight stitch ··················································· 14,15
Reverse stitch ······················································ 15
Zigzag stitch ························································· 16
Stitch width vs stitch length
Overcasting ························································· 16
Buttonholes ······················································ 17,18
Corded Buttonholes ············································· 18
Inserting zippers ··················································· 19
Blind stitch ···························································· 20
Reinforcing stretch stitch ····································· 21
Patch work ··························································· 21
Optional parts ················································ 22~24
Invisible zipper foot / Even feed foot
Rolled hemming foot / Quilting attachment
Teflon-coated presser foot
How to replace light bulb ····································· 25
Cleaning ······························································· 25
Performance checklist ········································ 26
Specification table ················································ 26
2
* Standard presser foot (A) is equipped with machine.
Accessories
Screwdriver
Blindstitch presser foot (D)
Seam ripper
Zipper foot (B)
Overcasting foot (C)
Bobbins (3)
Standard presser foot (A)
Buttonhole foot (E)
HZL-30Z HZL-60 Auxiliary Bed
Speed controller
HZL-30Z HZL-60
HZL-30Z
Youcankeepinstruction
manual at hard case. HZL-60
Needle pack
( )
HAx1 No.11 2P
No.14 1P
Spool cap (small)
HZL-30Z
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3
Principal Parts
HZL-30Z
Handle
Thread Cutter
Needle threader
Presser foot release lever
Presser foot holder
Feed dog
Needle plate
Bobbin case
Needle clamp
Presser foot
Hook cover release button
Hook cover
Bobbin
Needle
Thread spool cap
Bobbin thread guide
Thread tension dial
Spool pin
Bobbin winder
Bobbin winding regulator
Stitch length dial
Face cover
Auxiliary bed
Reverse stitch lever
Pattern display panel
Handwheel
Stitch pattern dial
Light switch
Speed controller receptacle
Presser foot lever
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4
HZL-60
Needle threader
Presser foot release lever
Presser foot holder
Feed dog
Needle plate
Bobbin case
Needle clamp
Presser foot
Hook cover
Needle
Bobbin
Thread spool cap
Thread guide
Thread tension dial
Face cover
Auxiliary bed
Reverse stitch lever
Handwheel
Stitch pattern dial
Light switch
Speed controller receptacle
Handle
Spool pin
Stitch length dial
Pattern display panel
Presser foot lever
Bobbin winder
Bobbin winding regulator
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Pushspeedcontroller plug into
receptable at right end of the
machine. Plug power cord into
electric outlet.
Presser foot lever
To run the machine press
foot speed controller. The
harderyoupress,thefaster
machine will sew. To stop
machine, remove foot from
controller.
Major Functions
Light switch
ON
OFF
HandwheelSpeed controller
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Reverse stitch lever
The reverse stitch is used at
the beginning and end of a
seam to secure it.
Presser
foot
goes up.
Presser foot
comes down.
Thread tension dial
To increase the needle thread
tension
Stitch length dial
To decrease the needle thread
tension
To increase the needle thread
tension
To decrease the needle thread
tension
To decrease the
stitch length
To increase the
stitch length
To decrease the
stitch length
To increase the
stitch length
Automatic
stitch length
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Presser
foot
goes up.
Presser foot
comes down.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Automatic
stitch length
5
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Draw the auxiliary bed to the
left side.
Stitch pattern dial Free arm
Pointer
Pointer
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Straight stitch
(S)
Straight stitch for elastic Scallop stitch
Left
side
position
Center
position
(L)(M)
Zigzag stitch 3-step zigzag stitch Pattern stitch Blindstitch Blindstitch for elastic Arrowhead Overcasting Patchwork Buttonholing Stretch reinforcing stitch
Stitch pattern
6
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
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Winding The Bobbin
Threading for winding the bobbin
2.Take out the bobbin.1.Open the hook cover.
7
Thread guide
Bobbin winder
Bobbin winding regulator
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Thread guide Bobbin winder
Bobbin winding regulator
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Thread
spool
cap
Small spool
Thread
spool
cap
Large spool
3.Place the thread spool
and cap onto the spool
pin.
Caution:
Turn off the machine before opening the hook cover.
[HZL-30Z]
Adjusting the bobbin thread guide
In the case where the bobbin is unevenly
wound with thread according to the type of
thread, the bobbin thread guide has to be
adjusted.
Move the bob-
bin thread
guide up or
down to adjust
so that the
bobbin is
evenly wound
with thread.
•~•› •~
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Press the bobbin against the
bobbin winding regulator.
7.Push the bobbin back
to the left.
9.Pull the thread into the
groove of the bobbin
case.
6.Depress speed
controller to wind bobbin.
10.Close the hook cover.
Bobbin winding
regulator
Bobbin
winder
[1]
[2]
8
5.Place the bobbin on the
bobbin winding shaft.
Bobbin winding
regulator
Bobbin
winder
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Cut the thread and take the
bobbin off the shaft.
8.Place the bobbin in
case with thread pulling
off as illustrated.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
[1]
[2]
Thread [1], place the thread on
the groove [2] and draw thread
to rear of machine.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Hook the thread into
the thread guide.
4.Follow threading path into the bobbin winder thread
guide.
Hook the
thread into
the thread
guide.
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9
Threading The Machine
2.Hook the thread into the
thread guide.
1. Raise the presser foot
lever.
3.To thread the machine
follow steps.
[1]
[2]
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
* Be sure to raise the presser foot before threading the machine head.
Be sure to turn off the machine before threading.
CAUTION:
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
[2]
[3]
[1]
[2]
[3]
[4]
[5]
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
[4] [5]
Take-up
[6]
[7]
4. 5. 6.
Turn the handwheel to place
the take-up in the highest po-
sition.
Hook the thread in thread
guide from the right.
[2]
[3]
[4]
Take-up
[7]
[8]
[2]
[3]
[4]
[5]
[7]
[8]
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2.Push the threading lever
allthewaydownandahook
willgo throughtheeyeofthe
needle.
Lower the threading lever
and place the thread onto
(A).
3.Slowlyrelease theneedle
threader and it will return to
its original position.
4.Pull the loop of thread
that is at the back of the
needle out about 4”.
Continue turning the handwheel while
holding the needle thread until the needle
rises.
1.Hold the needle thread lightly with
the left hand and turn the handwheel
toward you until the needle enters the
needle plate.
Undo the loop with your finger.
* Check to be sure that the needle is in its highest position.
(A)
Hook
10
Automatic Needle Threading
Pulling Up The Bobbin Thread
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
1.Push the threading lever
down.
(A)
Pass the thread in front of the
needle and below the hook.
Hook
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
2.Turn the handwheel
toward you.
3.Pull both the needle and bobbin
threads out by 10 cm.
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Needle to be purchased
Whenpurchasingspareneedles,
specify HAx1 (130/705H) for
household sewing machine or
HAx1SP (needle for knits). The larger the number,
the thicker the needle.
Level plate
Parallel
Checking the needle * Check the needle for its
straightness occasionally.
Any bent needle would
cause stitch skipping,
thread breakage or damage
to materials.
Needle size
Changing The Presser Feet
2.Push the presser foot
release lever.
1.Raise the presser foot.
3.Align the presser foot
pin with the marker line on
needle plate.
Marker line
Pin
How To RemoveAnd Insert The Needle
(1)Turnthehandwheel towardyoutountil
the needle bar reaches its highest
position.
(2) Loosen the needle clamp screw.
Securely tighten the needle clamp screw,
using the screwdriver furnished with the
machine.
The flat
part should
face away
from you.
Stopper pin
Hold the needle with its flat part facing
away from you, and insert it fully until it
touches the stopper pin.
Push
4.Lower the presser foot.
11
Screwdriver
Needle clamp
screw
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
1.Removing the needle. 2.Attaching the needle.
(The needle cannot be inserted unless it is correctly positioned.)
Make sure to disconnect plug from wall
outlet before inserting needle.
CAUTION:
Make sure to disconnect the plug from the wall
outlet before changing the presser foot.
CAUTION:
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Types of Feet and Their Application
12
Straight stitch
Straight stitch for elastic Scallop stitch Zigzag stitch 3-step zigzag stitch Pattern stitch
Blindstitch Blindstitch for elastic
Overcasting (Overlocking) Patchwork Stretch reinforcing stitch
standard presser foot (A)
Feet
Stitch pattern
Typical applications
Blindstitch
presser foot (D)
Zipper foot (B) Overcasting foot
(C)
Buttonhole foot (E)
HZL-30Z HZL-60
Setting zipper
Buttonholing
Feet
Stitch pattern
Typical applications HZL-60 HZL-30Z
HZL-60 HZL-30Z
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Fabric, ThreadAnd Needle Table
* The knitting needles (HAx1sp) effectively prevent from stitch skipping, and ideal for sewing stretchy fabrics.
Fabric
Light-weight Lawn #80~100 (No.9)
Thread Needles
HA x 1
(130/705H)
Tricot
Georgette
Wool and synthetic
fiber cloth Silk
Synthetic
Synthetic
Synthetic thread/
Fine thread No.11
Medium-weight
Heavy-weight
# 90, 100
Silk
Knitting needle
No.11
# 60~100
# 80
# 60~100 No.11
No.11~14
General cotton
andsyntheticcloth
Light-weightjersey
Cotton
Synthetic # 50~80 # 50~60
General wool and
synthetic cloth
Silk
Synthetic # 50 # 50~60
Knitting needle
No.11
No.11~14
No.11~14
Knitting needle
No.11
No.14~16Denim
Jersey
Coating
Cotton
Synthetic
Silk
Synthetic
Silk
# 30~50
# 30~50
# 50
# 50~60
# 50
How ToAdjust Thread Tension The upper thread tension is too low.
The upper thread tension is too high.
Upper thread (Needle thread)
Bobbin thread
To decrease upper
thread tension.
To increase upper
thread tension.
Bobbin thread
Upper thread (Needle thread)
Normally, well-tensed seam is obtained when the
needle thread and bobbin thread interlace with
each other at the middle of the fabric thickness.
13
HZL-30Z HZL-60
HZL-30Z HZL-60
Correct the thread tension
Upper thread (Needle thread)
Bobbin thread
Middle
of fabric
thickness
Fabric (right side)
Fabric (wrong side)
Stitch Length Of Each Stitch Pattern
Stitch length
Straight Zigzag
Thread
tension
dial
1 ~ 3 1 ~ 4
1.5 ~ 3 0.5 ~ 4
2 ~ 4 0.5 ~ 4
HZL-30Z HZL-60
HZL-30Z HZL-60
HZL-30Z HZL-60
HZL-30Z HZL-60
Straight stitch
for elastic fabric
2 ~ 2.5
Stitch
Best adjustment
Adjustment
example
Possible
adjustmentscope 0 ~ 4
2.5
0 ~ 2.5
Zigzag stitch
1 1.4 2
0 ~ 4
for elastic fabric
Blindstitch
3-step
zigzag stitch
0.5 2.5
2 1.5
0 ~ 4 0 ~ 4
1
Pattern stitch Buttonholing Scallop stitch
(0.2) (1)
0 ~ 4 0 ~ 4 0 ~ 4 0 ~ 4
2 2.5 Automatic
Automatic
stitch
length
0.5 0.4 ~ 0.6
HZL-60 HZL-30Z
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Straight Stitch
The straight stitch is the basic stitch.
5.Begin sewing.
3.Set the fabric and lower
the presser foot.
7. Adjust the sewing
speed.
6. Lightly hold the fabric
with your hands. 8.Stop sewing.
2.Make sure that the
presser foot is correct.
For
elastic
fabric
stitch
Standard presser
foot (A)
14
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
CAUTION: Turn off the machine before changing the presser foot.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
1.Select a stitch pattern. 4.Select the stitch length
range.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
For
elastic
fabric
stitch
Standard presser
foot (A)
Place the fabric under the
presser foot so the needle will
enterthesewingstartpointofthe
fabric.
Pull both the needle and bobbin
threads to the rear of the ma-
chineand lowerthepresserfoot.
Be careful not to apply exces-
sive pulling force to the fabric
while sewing.
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Reverse stitch 1.Press the reverse
stitch button. Begin
sewing.
The reverse stitch is
used at the beginning
and end of a seam to
secure it.
3.Press the reverse
stitch button.
2.Detach the finger
from the reverse
stitch button, sew
the straight stitch.
To start sewing from the
multi-layer material edge,
use the button mounted on
the presser foot to make the
presser foot parallel to the
fabric, thereby ensuring
smooth sewing.
Beginning of sewing heavy-weight fabric
[HZL-30Z] Pressing the button (spring) that is
mounted on the presser foot into
the groove in the presser foot
holder, lower the presser foot.
Fabric
[1] [2]
[3]
Hold the upper and bobbin
threads together, pull them out
about 4” and cut them with the
thread cutting groove located
at the rear of the presser foot.
Thread cutter
Pull the upper thread to the
wrong side of the fabric, and
knot the upper and bobbin
threads. Cut the threads as
close to the knot as possible.
This technique is useful for
securing the pattern stitches.
For elastic fabric
straight stitch
Finished seams are
elastic.
This stitch system
can be used for pro-
ducing straight
stitches on elastic
fabrics such as knits
and jersey.
9.Remove the fabric from
the machine.
15
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
11.Knot the threadsonthe
wrong side of the fabric.
10.Cut the threads, using
the thread cutting groove.
Afterfinishing aseam,raisethe
needle and the presser foot,
and slowly pull the fabric from
under the presser foot.
Thread
cutting
groove
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
4.Stop sewing.
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Zigzag Stitch
Stitch width vs.stitch length
(S) 1.5
Stitch length Stitch width
16
CAUTION: Make sure to turn off the machine before changing the presser foot.
2.Make sure that the
presser foot is correct.
(S)
(M)
(L)
Standard presser
foot (A)
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
1.Select a stitch pattern.
Standard presser
foot (A)
(S)
(M)
(L)
Pattern
(M) 3.3 (L) 5
~~~
0.5 4 0.5 4 0.5 4
Overcasting
Used to prevent fabric from fraying.
Standard presser foot (A)
CAUTION: Make sure to turn off the machine before changing the presser foot.
(L)
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
(L)
2.Replacethepresserfoot.1.Select a stitch pattern.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
3.Set the stitch length. 4.Incaseof theovercasting
presser foot.
Overcasting foot (C)
(L)
1 ~ 2
Automatic
stitch length
Standard presser foot (A)
Overcasting foot (C)
(L)
1 ~ 2
Automatic
stitch length
There are three stitch types
that can be used for overcast-
ing.
Guide
Guide
Placethefabric againstthefoot
guide so that the needle sews
close to the edge.
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17
3.Mark the fabric.
Mark
Buttonholes
Install it so that its scale comes
to the left-hand side.
5. Select a buttonhole that matches your
purpose.
CAUTION: Make sure to turn off the machine before changing the presser foot.
1.Install the presser foot
for buttonholing.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Markthefabric toindicate
the buttonhole place-
ment.
2.Set the stitch length. 4.Push the slide and set the
mark.
Lowerthebuttonholefoot so thatthe
mark is at the center of the needle
hole in the foot.
0.2 ~ 1
0.2 ~ 1
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
Step of procedure for making a choice of pattern to be
sewn.
Incorrect Adjustment Correct
Adjusting stitch
balance of
buttonhole stitching.
The adjusting screw is
located on the under
handwheel and can be
turnedwitha screwdriver
through the hole.
The slide Push
Mark
Push
Mark
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18
6.Open the completed
buttonhole, using the
seam ripper.
Stopper pin
Corded Buttonholes
Sewing a cord into the buttonholes will
prevent them from becoming loose and
they will last longer. Buttonhole twist
thread may be used for cording.
In the eventof buttonholing failure
In the case where a buttonholing
failure has arisen when the machine
has been sewing the right-parallel
seam of the buttonhole.
In the case where a buttonholing
failure has arisen when the machine
has been sewing the left-parallel
seam of the buttonhole.
1.Lift thepresserfoot andundo the seam.
2. Select the “ ” using the pattern
selector dial.
3. Run the machine idle by approximately
10 stitches.
4. Select the “ ” using the pattern
selector dial.
Then, perform the buttonholing again from the
sewing start position.
1.Lift thepresserfoot andundo the seam.
2. Select the “ ” using the pattern
selector dial.
Then, perform the buttonholing again from the
sewing start position.
How to set the cord.
(Front)
CAUTION: Make sure to turn off the machine before
changing the presser foot.
(back)
Cord
When you sew buttonholes with cording, pass the cord through the end of the
buttonhole foot and knot the ends of the threads at the front. Then, attach the
buttonhole foot to the presser bar and sew the buttonhole. Pull the cording tight
into the sewn buttonhole and cut off the excess cord.
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Inserting Zippers
Zippers may be inserted in several ways.
The type and location of the zipper will help you choose the right method.
A zipper is lapped when one edge of the fabric open-
ingoverlapsandconcealsit, allowing only one stitch-
ing line to show.
· Machine-baste the zipper opening together on the
seamline, and press open the seam allowance.
Machine-baste...Stitch length [4]
Seam...Stitch length [2]
· If the zippers is left of the needle, the left
side of the zipper foot goes on the shank.
· If the zippers is right of the needle, the
right side of the zipper foot goes on the
shank.
Zipper foot (B)
(Left)
Fabric
(wrong side)
Reverse stitch
(1 cm)
(Right)
19
CAUTION: Make sure to turn off the machine before changing the presser foot.
Attach the
right side
Slider
Stitch length [2]
Fabric
(wrong side)
Zipper opening size
Teeth
Slider
3mm
Attach the
left side
Fabric
(wrong side)
Reverse
stitch
2.
HZL-30Z
HZL-60
1.Select a stitch pattern. 3.Change the presser foot.
Left
side
position
Left
side
position
Seamline Slider
1.Lapped:Zippersusuallyareinserted
in the side seam of the garment.
1cm
2. 3.
Lapped Insertion
Stitch length [2]
Fabric
(right side)
Machine-baste
Attach the
right side
Stitch length [2]
Attach the
left side
Fabric
(wrong side)
Reverse
stitch
1.Lapped:Zippersusuallyareinserted
in the side seam of the garment. 2. 3.
Stitch length [2]
Fabric
(right side)
Teeth
Fabric
(wrong side) Fabric (wrong side)
Zipper
(wrong side)
Machine-baste
Reverse
stitch Machine-baste
· The edge of the teeth following the seam line.
· Stitch the zipper to the seam allowance from
bottom to top.
· Smooth back the seam allowance at the edge
of the zipper.
· Stitch the zipper from bottom to top, as shown,
near the seam allowance folded edge.
· Pin or machine-baste the zipper to the garment
from the wrong side, through zipper tape, the
seam allowance, and the front of the garment.
· Turn the garment right side out.
· Stitch across the lower end of the zipper and up
to the waistline. Use the basting stitches as a
guide.
· Remove the basting and press.
· Machine-baste the zipper opening to the
seamline, and press open the seam allowance. · Baste through the zipper tape, seam allowance and garment exterior.
· Turn the garment left side up and top-stitch it to
the zipper, sewing through all layers.
Centered Insertion
· Right side sewing through all layers.
· Remove the basting and press.
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