KANGKE INDUSTRIAL LASER 2000 User manual

LASER 2000
ARF
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
KANGKE INDUSTRIAL USA Inc.
65 East Jefryn Blvd. Deer Park, New York 11729
http://www.kangkeusa.com E-mail: [email protected]
1 877-203-2377 Fax [phone]
This manual is the sole property of KANGKE INDUSTRIAL USA inc. Reproducing any part
without the consent of Kangke Industrial USA Inc. is a lawful violation.
Warranty: Kangke Industrial USA Inc. guarantees the kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any parts damaged by use or modifications. In no case shall Kangke Industrial’s liability exceed the
purchase cost of this kit. Since Kangke Industrial has no control of final assembly and material used by user for final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed or accepted for any damage resulting from the use by user of final user-assembled products. This kit has been flight test for
normal use. If the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, the modeler is responsible for reinforcing the high stress points. Inspect
this kit immediately after receiving it, report any missing and damaged parts within 10 business days otherwise the claim may be denied.

Congratulations!
The LASER 2000 is one of the finest ARF high performance models available. Originally
designed as a competition aircraft, It has proven itself time and time again in the winner circle. All the
great flying characteristics have been retained, along with all the special design features of a full bread
competitor. The tail surfaces are removable for shipping. The flying wires are functional. Several servo
and engine options are available to suit you personal needs and the highest quality hardware available
has been included. When properly assembled if can perform anything in the current realm of I.M.A.C or
T.O.C high Alfa maneuvers.
WARNING! As model aircraft get larger and more powerful, the risk for injury increases.
KANGKE’s extensive testing procedures insure a high quality kit that has gone through many steps to
provide you with a safe reliable airframe. Nothing we can do however will make up for poor assembly
or irresponsible behavior at the field. A model this size and weight traveling at 80 MPH contains enough
energy that if it were to contact another person, the injuries would be extensive possibly fatal. The safe
operation of this model is yours and yours alone. If you are a beginner or have never flown a model of
this size and power, you should not make the attempt without the help of an experienced pilot.
Enjoy this aircraft, you may never find one that flies better!
Specifications:
Length 70 in.
Wing span 87 in.
Wing area wet 1204 sq.
in.
Surface area 1421 sq.
in.
Weight 16-18 lbs.
Wing load 27-29 oz.
Engine 2.4-3.2
C.I. Gas
Kit Contents:
Fuselage 1
Wing panel 1
Ailerons 2
Cowling 1
Canopy 1
Main gear 1
Stabilizer 1
Elevator half 2
Rudder 1
Fin 1
Servo mount 1
Fuel tank 1
Wheels 2
Tail wheel 1
Control horns 6
Control rods 6
Hardware pack 1
Wheel pants 2
Set flying wires 1
Wing tube 1
The following items will also
be needed to assemble your
LASER 2000:
Hobby Items:
30-min. epoxy
Hobby Knife
4-6channel radio
Gas line
5 heavy duty servos
Engine
Med. CA 1-oz.
Muffler
Household Items:
Paper towels
Alcohol
Popsicle sticks
Felt tip pen
Screwdrivers
Wax paper
Pliers
String
If you are familiar with the assembly of ARF type aircraft, you will find the assembly sequence to
seem out of order. This is because of some of the unusual features of a competition airframe.
Please follow the sequence as written. The Laser 2000 will take 20-25 hours to complete.
Read each step of the assembly carefully. Be sure you understand what is required for each
procedure before you glue of cut anything. How well you assemble this model will have a direct
effect on its flight characteristics. Do not omit any steps. Take your time and enjoy the building
process.

ASSEMBLY
Because the tail section is removable, the flying
wires are functional. Locate the pre-drilled
holes in the fin and stabilizer for the flying
wires attach brackets. The holes are small and
difficult to find. They must be opened with a
pin.
Use the rudderpost to locate the alignment
holes in the rear of the fuselage. Open the
holes.
Assemble the tail as shown with a piece of
waxed paper between the stabilizer and the
rudder support block. Install the stabilizer
hold down screws for alignment, do not tighten
Use a felt tip marker to outline the rudder
support block on the side of the fin.
With a sharp hobby blade and a straight edge,
slice the covering ¼ inch below the marked
line. Be careful not to slice into the wood, as
that would weaken the structure. Peel away
the covering a shown.
Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the inside of the
rudder support block. The waxed paper will
prevent it from sticking to the stabilizer. Slide
the rudder all the way in, engaging the
rudderpost alignment pins. Wipe away the
excess epoxy with a paper towel moistened
with alcohol. Allow to cure before moving.

Bend all the flying wire attach brackets to a
45-degree angle and install in the fin and
stabilizer as shown. Tighten the screws only to
the point where the stabilizers wood begins to
crush, do not over tighten. A small dab of RTV
silicone will prevent them from vibrating loose.
Measure the firewall across the top and
bottom, locate and draw the vertical
centerline. Measure down 1 3/8-inches from
the top of the firewall and draw a horizontal
line. Where the lines cross should be the center
of the crankshaft of the engine.
The distance from the back of the spinner to
the firewall must be at least 6 7/16-inches for
proper clearance with the cowl. The BRISON
2.4 used on the prototype required a 1 1/8-inch
spacer. The size of the spacer you need will
depend on your choice of engine.
When installing the tail surfaces for use apply
a thin bead of RTV silicone to the stabilizer
rudder support-mating surface. Install the
flying wire attach bracket ¾-inch behind the
rudder servo opening as shown.
Install the flying wires on the bottom of the
stabilizer. The short wires in the front, the
long wires in the rear. Square the stabilizer by
adjusting the wire tension. NOTE: Do not over
tighten the wires, excess tension may distort
the stabilizer.

Install the upper flying wires; try to keep the
tension on all the wires equal. The wires
should be adjusted tight enough so there is no
endplay, but not so tight as to cause distortion
of either the fin or the stabilizer.
Install the main landing gear with the supplied
screws and washers. When installed correctly
the gear will have a slight sweep forward.
Install the tail wheel bracket. Align the tail
wheel pivot hole with the back edge of the
rudderpost.
The airframe can now stand on its gear
allowing clearance for the cowl. Temporarily
install the canopy deck. Line up the cowl and
open any holes that are necessary for engine /
exhaust clearance. Locate the holes for the
cowl mount. Remove the cowl and deck.
Assemble the gas tank. Be sure the flop tube
does not contact the rear of the tank. Bend the
vent line to the top of the tank and install the
fill tube if third line refueling is to be used.

Epoxy the supplied tank support rails in place
as shown. The rear rail should touch the wing
tube support doubler. The front rail should be
approximately 2 ½- inches behind the firewall.
Install the fuel tank using a small amount of
RTV silicone on the rails. Rubber bands or a
Popsicle stick may be used across the top for
additional support. If your choice of engine
has electronic ignition such as the BRISON
3.2, you may wish to slide the tank to the side
to allow room for the module and battery. You
will have to cut a small notch in the bottom of
the canopy deck directly over the tank for
clearance.
Using a 1/8-inch drill, locate and drill the holes
for the control horns in the rudder and
elevators. Use the dimensions below, notice
that the horn backing ring touches the back of
the beveled edge.
Slide the hinges ½ way into the fin and
stabilizer. Insert a pin at the hinge line, this
will prevent the hinge from sliding too far in
when the control surface is pushed on.

With the control surface in place and properly
aligned apply one drop of thin CA to each side
of each hinge. Repeat the process for all
control surfaces {rudder, elevator and
ailerons}.
Install the control horns in the previously
drilled holes. The long ones are used for the
rudder, the mid-size are used for the elevator.
Open the servo holes and install the servos.
The elevator servos must have at least 60-oz of
torque; the prototype used HITEC
HS625BBMG.
The rudder must have at least 100-oz of
torque: the prototype used HITEC
HS645BBMG. Install and adjust the supplied
elevator control rods. Fabricate the rudder
pull-pull using the supplied rods.
Remove the servo covers from the wing halves.
Open the slot for the servo horn
Install the servo in the servo cover. The servo
must have at least 60 oz of torque. The
prototype used HITEC HS625BBMG. If a
servo extension is needed be sure it can not
separate in the wing.

Run the servo wire through the wing and
install the cover with the supplied screws. Drill
and install the shortest control horn in the
aileron. Attach and adjust the linkage.
Open the five holes in the fuselage side
covering. A sharp razor knife works best for
this.
Temporarily install the wing panels. Locate
and drill a hole for the plastic outer throttle
push rod.
Locate and mount the throttle servo and
bracket inside the fuselage. Be sure the servo
and push rod do not interfere with the wing
attach bolts.
Slide the axle through the recessed side of the
wheel. Slide a collar on and tighten the set
screw, leave enough play so thee tire spins
freely.
Install the anti-rotation screw in the wheel
pant followed by the axle wheel assembly.

Locate and epoxy the tiller arm guide tube in
the bottom of the rudder.
Place the wheel on the gear wire and lock in
place with a collar. Slide the gear through the
support. Install the tiller arm through the long
collar and into the rudder guide tube. Lock the
gear in place with the set-screw. The tiller arm
does not use a set-screw.
Open the hole in the canopy deck and secure
with the supplied screw.
WEIGHT AND BALANCE
Nothing affects the way a plane flies more
than weight and balance. Failure to
perform this procedure may result in an
aircraft that is at best difficult to control
and at worst impossible to fly. Even small
changes in the balance point make large
changes in stability. For your first flights
we recommend using a balance point at
the forward end of the center of gravity
{C.G.} range, this location will provide the
most stability. As your comfort and skill
increase slowly move the C.G. aft to
increase the control response.
The recommended starting range for the C.G. is 5
3/8 inches to 5 3/4 inches back from the leading
edge of the wing measured against the side of the
fuselage. 5 ½ inches is 27% of the MAC {mean
aerodynamic chord}. Slide the battery pack to a
position where the plane will balance level to
slightly nose heavy. Mount the battery inside the
fuselage at the determined location. Install the on
off switch in a convenient location per the
manufactures instructions. Reinstall the wing and
check the C.G. again. If necessary add weight to
the nose or tail.
CONTROL THROWS
With your radio on, center all trims and adjust the
clevises so all control surfaces are straight.
Measure the control surface movement at the
widest part of each surface. Use the servo horns
and bell crank holes to adjust the control throw.
For your first flights the control throws should be
set to the following:

Elevator 1-inch up / down
Rudder 1 3/4- inch right / left
Aileron 1/2-inch up / down
Double check all controls move in the proper
direction.
MOTOR SET UP
Be sure the motor is properly broken in using the
manufacture instructions. Set the throttle throw to
shut the motor off when the trim is pulled down
and idles reliably with the trim up.
After the motor is set, run one tank of gas at full
throttle, measure how much time it takes to run
the tank dry.
CONGRADULATIONS you are now ready
for test flights.
Before leaving for the field be sure your batteries
are fully charged and you have all the required
support equipment {fuel, starter, transmitter,
ect.}.
Although the LASER 2000 will fly well in wind,
wait for a nice day.
At the field have a helper hold the airplane,
following the radio manufactures instructions
perform a range check of the radio. Do this with
the motor off, start the motor and do it again.
Perform this test EVERY TIME YOU GO TO
FLY!
TRIMING BASIC FLIGHT
The LASER 2000 is NOT a trainer. A true
aerobatic aircraft, it goes only where you
point it and will not recover to level flight
without control input. If you do not have
high performance experience seek the
help of someone who does.
Line up on the center of the runway and slowly
open the throttle, using the rudder to maintain
directional control. Once the tail is up apply a
little up elevator and allow the plane to gently lift
off the runway. Keep the climb angle and turns
shallow until you reach a safe altitude. Reduce
the throttle to about 60% power. With the
airplane flying away from you adjust the radio
aileron trim tab till the wing stays level. Turn and
line up the plane with the runway. Adjust the
elevator trim till the plane maintains level flight.
Once again with the airplane flying away from
you adjust the rudder trim till the fuselage tracks
straight {it may be necessary to correct the
aileron trim after this procedure}. Continue to fly
and trim until the aircraft is tracking well, land
before the fuel runs out. Carry a little power on
final approach until over the end of the runway,
then cut power to idle, hold the plane just off the
runway till the airspeed bleeds off and the plane
settles on. If the landing is too long add power go
around and try again, don’t try to force it to the
ground.
Now its time to zero out the trims. To do this
measure the control location, center the trim tab
on the radio and adjust the servo horn for large
changes, the control clevis for small changes. For
example if after the flight the rudder is 3/16 inch
to the right, center the radio trim and adjust the
clevis till the rudder once again measures 3/16
right. By doing this whenever you fly, setting the
radio trims at center will result in a well-trimmed
plane. Increase the control travel, as you become
more familiar with the flight characteristics until
loops take about 50 feet and knife edge can be
maintained with 80% stick deflection. Final roll
rate should be 300-360 degrees per second.
If you have followed the procedures in
this Manuel you will now be rewarded
with one of the finest flying sport models
available. All primary aerobatic
maneuvers are at your fingertips and the
aircraft will perform them with ease. No
further trim work will be required until you
are ready for unlimited and advanced 3-D
flight. Before attempting any of the
ADVANCED FLIGHT TRIM procedures you
must be completely comfortable with
inverted and knife-edge flight. The
following trim sequence is very time
consuming and you may not be able to
complete it in one day. Every change
made during this procedure will affect all
others so it will be necessary to start the
procedure from the beginning after each
adjustment.

ADVANCED FLIGHT TRIM
All the following tests should be performed at
80% power unless noted.
C.G. Fine Tuning:
Roll inverted, neutral elevator to two clicks of
down trim, if the model descends move the
C.G. aft. If the model climbs move the C.G.
forward. C.G. movement should be no more
than ¼-inch at a time.
Engine Thrust Angle Right/Left:
On a low pass 50% power directly into the
wind, go to 80% power and pull to a vertical
line at the same time. As the model slows do
not correct the path with rudder. If the model
yaws right add 1/16-inch shims under the right
side motor mount bolts at the firewall. If the
model yaws left place the shims under the left
side.
Main Wing Incidence:
Roll to knife-edge flight, if down elevator is
required to maintain a straight line, shim the
back of the main wing 1/8-inch at a time till
the elevator is neutral. If up elevator is
required shave the rear of the wing saddle 1/8-
inch at a time.
Engine Thrust Angle Up/Down:
On a low pass 50% power crosswind, go to
80% power and pull vertical at the same time.
As the model slows do not correct path with
elevator.
If the model tries to loop add 1/16-inch shims
to the top motor mount bolts. If the model tries
to push over to the wheel side, add 1/16-inch
shims to the lower motor mount bolts.
Wing Tip Weight:
Level flight into the wind, roll inverted neutral
aileron. If one wing drops add weight to the
other wing tip 1/8-once at a time.
Elevator Surface Alignment:
Fly away from you directly into any wind,
apply full throttle and pull two consecutive
loops. Model rolls right, raise left elevator,
model rolls left, raise right elevator.