KD1JV Designs Mountain Topper User manual

The Mountain Topper
A very small, very efficient, two band rig
By
KD1J Designs
http://kd1jv.qrpradio.com
[email protected]
Specifications:
Dual band, 20 M and 40 M typical, 30 M and 80 M possible.
Receiver:
MDS: ~0.2 u
Small signal band width ~ 500 Hz
Audio output limited to ~ 800 mv p-p
Headphone output, 16 ohms min recommended.
Minimum current (no signal) ~35 ma
Transmitter:
2.5 watts @ 9 volt supply typical
Spurs -50 dBc or better
1
Table of Contents
Assembly:..........................................................2
Check out and Calibration:.............................12
Reference Oscillator Frequency
Calibration:............................................12
Local Oscillator frequency trim and BFO
ad ustment:.............................................13
Receiver input peaking:.........................13
Transmitter test and output (low pass)
filter ad ustment:....................................13
Mounting into an enclosure. ...........................16
Basic operation:...............................................17
Turning the rig on and off:.........................17
Volume control: .........................................17
Band selection:...........................................17
Control switches:........................................17
Frequency tuning: ......................................18
Tuning limits: ........................................18
SPLIT MODES:.........................................18
MENU:.......................................................18
Quick selections: .......................................18
DFE Mode: ...........................................19
Tune Mode: ...........................................19
Battery Voltage:.....................................19
MENU switch only selected functions:......19
Frequency readout: ....................................19
S: Selecting Keyer code speed...............19
M: Keyer Memory entry: .....................20
Checking and storing the message:.......20
Sending messages: ................................20
D: Digital Mode.....................................21
P: Program user preferences..................21
Straight key mode:.....................................21
Operating voltages: ...................................21
HIGH SWR CAUTION: ......................21
Digital modes:............................................24
Entering into digital mode operation:.........24
Running Pocketdigi:...................................24
Calibration:.................................................24

Assembly:
●Your work area should be reasonably clean and uncluttered. Good lighting is a must.
●Empty the packets containing the parts into small paper bowls. This will ensure that they do not get lost. Some
people like to do the assembly over a cookie sheet, as the lip around the edge helps to keep parts from going far.
The metal sheet also provides some measure of static control, especially if you ground it. A white sheet under
your work area could help in finding a part which might get away from you.
●A very thin (0.015”) solder is supplied for soldering the surface mounted parts. ery little solder is need for each
connection. Ideally, you want a little convex fillet at the end of chip resistors and capacitors. Try not to end up will
a ball of solder at the end of the part.
●Do not use liquid solder flux. It simply makes a mess and is difficult to clean off the board and get out from under
parts. If not completely removed from the board, it can cause problems.
●Before placing a part, lightly tin one pad for where it will go. You can speed assembly by tining one pad at all the
locations for which a particular value of part will go. There is no need for a low wattage soldering iron. It is best to
have a hot tip which will let you get the job done quickly. You will need a small tip on the iron, 1/32” to 1/16”
chisel or round is best.
●Most of the surface mount parts come in part carriers. To remove the part(s), hold the carrier close to the work
surface and carefully peel back the clear plastic covering the part. This can be done with the tip of a sharp hobby
knife such as a #11 Xacto blade or pointy tipped tweezers. Once you remove the clear plastic strip, dump the
part out of the carrier and onto your work surface.
●If you use tweezers to handle the parts, be very careful you don't grab onto them too tightly. These little parts
have a way of flying out from between the tips of the tweezers, never to be seen again. Apparently, they go into
the twilight zone, along with all the pens, small parts and hardware which falls off the bench. They must go
someplace since its never anywhere I can ever find them again!
●An alternative to using tweezers to handle the parts is to use a tooth pick or chop stick with the end rubbed into
a little bees wax. The bees wax makes the end sticky so the part will stick to it. For the smaller IC's I grab them
length wise with the tweezers.
●Tack the end of a part in its place by applying heat to the end of the part over the tined circuit board pad, while
applying a little pressure to make sure it lays flat to the board. Be sure to heat both the pad and the end of the
part. Generally, you will not have to add any additional solder to this connection. Then solder the other end of the
part. If you don't do this right away and go onto tacking down some more parts, there is a good chance you will
forget to go back and solder all the parts which require it.
●It is nearly impossible not to make solder shorts between pins on the DDS chip, due to the close pin spacing.
Remove any shorts with solder wick.
Using solder paste:
Using solder paste is the ideal way to build the board. Small amounts of solder paste in an application syringe can be
bought for about $5.00 from Cash Olson over the internet. Also needed is a warming plate to preheat the board to about
200 degrees and a low power heat gun. An “Embossing” heat gun is commonly used (found at craft stores), though a hair
dryer on low setting might work. A soft air flow is required as to not to blow parts off the board.
A very small dab of solder paste is put on the pads and then the part placed over the pads. The parts will slide
around very easily, so one must be careful not to nudge them. The phono jacks and LED display should be hand soldered,
along with all the through hole parts. Start with the back side of the board with the most parts first.
Once all the parts have been placed, put the board on the warming plate and heat to about 200 degrees. Then
slowly heat the top of the board with the hot air gun. When the solder paste reaches its melting point, you will see it
liquefy and the parts snap into alignment to the pad. This is when the solder paste turns from a dull gray to shinny. Be on
the look out for “tomb stoning” which is when a chip cap or resistor will stand up on one end. Once all the solder has
reflowed, remove the power to the heating plate and let it cool down.
A video showing how to hand solder SMT parts and how to use solder paste can be found on the CD and is
viewable with Windows media player. The file is in the folder labeled “ ideo”
Using the parts placement guides:
The parts placement guides on the following pages are color coded to show the location of the various parts. Parts which
are not yet to be installed or already have been installed are colored the same as the background color. The guides are
scaled so that the writing on them is easy to see on a computer monitor and come out crisper after the conversion to pdf.
Unfortunately, if you print all these pages out, it will use up a bunch of your ink jet ink.
2

Some parts do not have values marked on them or are very hard to read. Capacitors are not marked so these have been
color coded with a marker on the part carrier. This color matches the color shown on the location guides.
SOT-23 parts have numbers printed on them, but are very hard to read. Therefore, these parts are also color coded, but
with a color sticker, as they come in plastic carriers. Again, the color on the carrier matches the color shown on the
placement guide diagram.
Resistors have their value printed on them, though it might take a magnifying glass to read the numbers. Therefore,
individual values are not color coded.
arious photos:
Using a straight edge to hold the TSSOP IC's in alignment with
the pads for soldering.
Semiconductor package types.
Finished board:
3
SOT-223
TSSOP-28
Diode
SOT-23-6
SOT-23
SO-8
SOT-23-5

Component location diagrams
There wasn't enough space between components on the circuit board to put component designations next to most of the
chip resistors and caps. Use the diagrams below to locate a part with its designation number. Note: Slide switches can be
mounted on either the top or bottom of the board.
Top Side:
Bottom Side:
4
Jumper
between R14
and R13
added on final
assembly

Parts list:
5
QTY Value Color code
or value #
Location(s)
1 51 510 R20
3 270 271 R10, R1 , R18
9 470 471 R2, R31 to R38
2 2.2 K 222 R2 , R27
1 3. K 3 2 R15
8 10 K 103 R1, 7, 9, 13, 22, 23, 24 [BSR]
1 15 K 153 R21
7 22 K 223 R17, 28, 30, 41, 42, 43 [BSR]
2 47 K 473 R44 [BSR]
3 100K 104 R25, R39, R40
1 220 K 224 R19
2 330K 334 R5, R12
1 1MEG 105 R14
1 2. 7K 2 71 1% R
1 14.0K 1402 1% R29
1 113K 1133 1% R11
1 2 7K 2 73 1% R8
5 30 p GREEN SMT TRIMMER CAPS
2 3.3 p YEL/green C25, C2
5 22 p ORANGE C18, C30, C32, C 5, C 8
2 47 p BROWN C24, C or C 8 - 30M BAND
1 8 p BLACK C or C 8 – 40m BAND
9 100 p VIOLET C4, 5, , 8, 9, 11, 21, 22, 38
3 470 p BLUE/red C7,C19 ,C44
2 1000p YELLOW C31, C49
17 0.01 u BLUE C2,12,15,1 ,17,28,29,35,40,41,
48,54,55, 1, 2, 3, 4
1 0.022u YEL/blue C58
14 0.1 u RED C10,13,14,23,27,33,34,39,42,43
,45,50,53, 7
1 1 u YEL/red C3
1 0.1 u 104 TH C 0 TH = THROUGH HOLE
2 150 p 151 TH C4 , C5
3 330 p 331 TH C47, C51, C57
1 80 p 81 TH C52
3 4.7 u ELECTRO C1, C20, C37
1 33 u ELECTRO C3
1 100 u ELECTRO C59
2 3.9 uH BLUE L3, L SMT 120
3 10 uH ORANGE L1, L2, L9 SMT 120
2 18 uH 40M BRN/GRY/BLK/GLD
2 12 uH 30M BRN/RED/BLK/GLD
2 8.2 uH 20M GRY/RED/GLD/GLD
QTY Part number Color code or
value #
location/description
2 SA 12A U1, U3 MIXER
1 LM4808M U2 AUDIO AMP
1 TC1014-3.3VCT713 BROWN
A5xx (last
two
characters
are date code
U4 3.3V REG
1 LM38 M U5 AUDIO AMP
1 AD9834BRUZ U DDS
1 MCP1703-5002E/DB MCP1703 U7 5V REG
1 74AC02M AC02 U8 QUAD OR
1SN74LVC1G3157DBV CC5R U9 ANG SWITCH
1 MSP430F2132IPW U10 MPU
1 ASV-40-EJ-T ASV 40.0 U11,40 MHz CLK
1 MMBF54 1 GRN [G1U] Q1 P-CHN J-FET
1 MMBT3904 BLUE [1AM] Q2 NPN
2 2N7002 RED [702] Q3, Q4 MOSFET
2 NDT2955 2955 Q5, Q P-CH
3 BS170 Q7,8,9 MOSFET
1 BAV99 YEL [A7] D1
2 BZT52C5V1-F [W8] D2, D3 5.1V zener
1 BZX85C47 GLASS D4 47V zener
1 0.2” 7 SEG LED DISPLAY
1 32.7 8 kHz CYLINER CRYSTAL
5 4.5912 MHz HC-49/US XTAL, MATCHED
3 DPDT SLIDE SWITCHES
4 X 4.3mm TACT SWITCH 12-
TL1105EF100Q
1 1.7mm X 4mm DC JACK 1 3-4018-EX
1 1.7mm X 4mm DC PLUG 171-3219-EX
2 3.5mm STEREO JACKS
4 0.187” # 2 SWAG THREADED SPACER
4 #2-32 1/4” SCREW
1 Red display filter film 1/2” x 1/2”
4 T-30-2 RED IRON TOROID
1 FT37-43 BLACK FERRITE TORIOD
1 48” #28 MAGNET WIRE
1 12” HOOK UP WIRE
1 48” 0.015” SOLDER
1 CIRCUIT BOARD
2 220 p [221] TH FOR 30M OPTION
1 5 0 p [5 1] TH FOR 30 M OPTION

Semiconductor placement
●Finding Pin 1. Some of the ICs used in this kit have a dot or indentation at
the Pin 1 corner of the chip. For others, the Pin 1 locations isn't as obvious.
The manufactures logo is sometimes used (as is the case for U1 and U3) or
sometimes there is a line along the Pin 1 end of the chip. In all cases, there is
a beveled or rounded edge along the side of the Pin 1 (left) side of the IC
package. When the chip is viewed so the package is orientated vertically, Pin 1
is always in the upper left corner.
●Before placing an IC or transistor, tin one of the corner pads and then tack
that lead of the part down first. Before soldering any other pins, make sure all the leads are lined up on the pads.
This is especially important for U6 and U10, where these isn't much room for error. Then solder the lead on the
opposite corner from the tacked lead to make sure the body doesn't move when you solder the rest of the leads.
●You will have to carefully check the number on the 8 pins IC's to tell them apart. Using a magnifying glass and
tilting the part slightly to the light will aid in reading the a part number. The rest of the IC's are each in unique
packages, so are easier to determine their locations.
●U4 and U9 are very similar. The way to tell them apart is the fact U4 has 5 leads and U9 has 6. To help tell them
apart, U4 has been color coded Brown. U9 has a faint dot which marks the pin 1 end, also the lettering “CC5R”
will be upside down when installed correctly.
●There are several different SOT-23 devices, the packages they are in are each color coded to match the layout
diagram.
●U11 is the rectangular box with the silver top. Be sure to get solder to flow into the little “U” shaped cups near
each corner of the part. A number of builders have had trouble with this and not made solder connection to the
pads under the part. A fine tipped iron is required here. Also, be careful of using too much solder and making a
short to the metal top of the package.
●D3 has very faint line on one end to indicate the cathode end. Look carefully for this line and face it towards the
line printed on the board.
●There maybe more numbers or letters on the semiconductor packages then indicated on the layout diagram.
These are date or lot codes and can vary depending on when the parts are purchased. Therefore these are not
used for part identification on the layout diagrams.
●CAUTION! There are three parts in SOT-223 packages, one of which is the 5 regulator, which goes on the top
side of the board. Do not mix up with the 2955 MOSFETS, Q5 and Q6. The regulator is loose in the semiconductor
parts bag, while the two MOSFETS are together in a parts carrier.
●HINT: Taping a straight edge, such as a thin metal ruler, across the board and lined up with the bottom outline of
U6 or U10 (as the case maybe) will aid in keeping the part aligned with the pads. First do U6, then U10. After
soldering the leads, clean up any solder shorts with the supplied solder wick. Be sure to only pull the wick parallel
to the leads, not against the gain! (see picture, page 3)
6
LOCATION PART # PACKAGE
U AD9834 TSSOP-20
U10 F2132 TSSOP-28
Q1 Green/G1U SOT-23
Q2 Blue/ 1AM SOT-23
Q4 Red/702 SOT-23
D1 Yellow /A7 SOT-23
U1/U3 SA 12A SO-8
U2 LM4808 S0-8
U5 38 S0-8
U8 74AC02 SO-14
D3 -- W8 2 leads
U4 Brown/A5xx SOT23-5
U9 ---- CC5R SOT-23-
U11 40.00 silver
Q5 2955 SOT-223
Remember, Q5 is in parts carrier, not loose

Resistors : Bottom
●Since part designation numbers for most parts are not printed on the board, you will need to use the diagram to locate where the
part goes. Pay careful attention to where the part is located to be sure it doesn't go where a cap will go later.
●Resistor locations are highlighted in yellow. The number shown inside the outline is the same as marked on body
of part. Note that several resistors have four numbers printed on them, these a 1% values. Resistors with three digits are 5%.
●Three inductors will also be installed with the resistors. These are packaged with the resistors, but are larger and have no numbers
printed on them. There are two values used, so they are color coded. The two left over “orange” inductors will be used on the other
side.
●There will be a number of resistors left over which go on the top side of the board. Put these aside in a safe place until needed.
●The “approximate location ” in the table will help locate the position of the resistor values on the board. upper/middle/lower is Y
coordinates area while left/center/right is X coordinates.
●Resistors R3 (BS1) and R4 (BS2) values depend on the band to be used see band value table below.
7
Value # places Approximate location
471 1 upper/center
271 3 upper/center
222 2 lower/center
3 2 1 upper/center
103 5 upper/left
153 1 middle/left
223 5 middle/left
lower/left
lower/center
104 2 lower/center
224 1 middle/left
334 2 upper/left
105 1 upper/left
NOTE The next two values
look alike – only the
last digit is different.
2 71 1 upper/left
2 73 1 upper/left
1133 1 upper/left
R3-
BS1
10K
1 upper/right
(20 M value)
R4-
BS2
47K
1 upper/right
(40 M value)
Orange 1 upper/right inductor.
Blue 2 middle/right inductor.
Band value table:
40M 47 K
30M 22 K
20M 10 K
BS1 (R3) should be highest frequency
band, typically 20 M

Capacitors : Bottom
Capacitors part carriers are color coded as the part its self has no markings to identify its value directly. Install all the
capacitors of a given value before starting to install another value. This will prevent mixing up values. Several values are
indicated by two colors, a main solid color and a second color stripe.
Several values are used on the top side of the board. Snip these from the strips and put them in a safe place for the time
being. light blue/red stripe – 1, Brown – 1, Orange – 1, Red – 3, Blue – 2.
●It is easy to confuse the orange caps (22 pfd) with the Red (0.1 ufd) caps on the layout digram, so we will pace
the orange ones first.
●Part number start in upper left and run left to right, top to bottom in a
zig-zag fashion.
8
Location color # places
C18, 30,
32, 8
Orange 4
C25, 2 Yellow/green stripe 2
C4, 5, , 8,
9, 11, 21,
22, 38
Violet 9
C24 Brown 1
C58 (below
Q5)
Yellow/blue stripe 1
C3 (below
Q1)
Yellow/red stripe 1
C31, 49 Yellow 2
C7, C19 Light blue/red stripe 2
C2, 12, 15,
1 , 28, 29,
35, 40, 41,
54, 55, 1,
2, 3, 4
Blue 15
C10, 13,
14, 23, 27,
34, 39, 42,
45, 50, 53
Red 11

Capacitor / Resistors : TOP
Semiconductors Top:
Trimmer caps:
CT1 notched end
faces U1
9
Value/color location #places
Orange* C 5 1 (20M- 22p)
Black* C 1 (40M- 8p)
Red C33, 43, 7 3
Blue C17, 48 2
Blue/red C44 1
510 R20 1
471 R31 to R38 8
103 R23, R24 2
223 R41 1
473 R44 1
104 R39 1
1402 R29 1
Orange L1, L9 2
*Note: C 5 and C values for 40/20 band
combo. Values or locations will change if
other band combinations are desired.
Value location
Red (702) Q3
---- tiny! W8 D2 Polarity!
MCP1703 U7 Don't confuse
with Q !
2955 Q
7 seg
display
LED
Display
Make sure
decimal point is
in lower right
hand corner.
Once soldered
in place, the
display is
nearly
impossible to
remove.
●Four trimmer capacitors labeled BNDB
and BNDA now need to be installed
before the through hole parts are
mounted to the top side of the board.
●CT1 is on the bottom side. Install this one
now.
●Note the cut corners on one end of the
trimmer. This end aligns with the
corresponding cut corners on the outline.
If you get it backwards, the adjustment
screw will be “hot”.
●There isn't much of a solder tab to solder
to, so you best have a real fine tip on your
iron, although the edge of a small chisel
tip could work.

Through hole parts:
(use your normal solder {.02 or /.032} for most of these parts)
●L14 – 8 turns on black T37-43 core. Wind now, but put aside and
install later.
10
●X1 – X5 tack solder case of X1,2, 3 and 4
to the pad along the top edge of the board.
A little blob of solder in between X1-X2 and
X3-X4 will do. Roughing up the edge of the
can with a small file can make the solder
stick to it easier.
●Insert and solder the four (4) threaded
spacers into the corner holes and solder.
Insert from top side and solder on bottom.
●X - tack solder top of crystal to solder pad.
●Slide switches – these can go on either
side of the board, but the top side is
preferable.
●S1-4 TACT switches. These can only go in
one way, so don't force them. The leads
which go along the top and bottom are
spaced a little farther apart.
●Through hole caps. Values shown in layout
locations are for 40 and 20 meter bands. If
another band combination is desired,
change values as needed. See table below
for value.
20M 40M 30M
C 0 104 [0.1u] C 0 104 [0.1u] C 0 104 [0.1u]
C4 , 5 151 [150 p] C47, C57 331 [330 p] C47, C57 221 [220p]
C51 331 [330 p] C52 81 [ 80 p] C52 5 1 [5 0p]
C 5 22p [Orange] C 8 p [Black] C 47p [Brown]
(C 5/C already installed, values shown for reference if other band combination used)
●C1, C20, C37 – 4.7 uFd electrolytic –
observe polarity, LONG LEAD PLUS.
●C3 – 33 uFd electrolytic
●C59 – 100 uFd electrolytic – lay this part
over SMT components below Q5. See
photo below.
●D4 – large glass diode – 47V zener.
●Q7, Q8, Q9 - BS-170 TO-92
●L4/8 L7/5 mount vertically.
● L10 to L13 See table below for inductor
values.
Location 20M 40M 30M
L5, L7 8.2 uH GRY/RED/GLD/GLD ------------------------------------------
-
-----------------------------------------
L4, L8 -------------------------------- 18 uH BRN/GRY/BLK/GLD 12 uH BRN/RED/BLK/GLD
L10 T30-2 RED 11 turns 8” -------------------------------------- ----------------------------------
L11 T30-2 RED 15 turns 10” -------------------------------------- ------------------------------------
L12 ----------------------------------- T30-2 RED 1 turns 10” T30-2 RED 13 turns 9”
L13 ----------------------------------- T30-2 RED 19 turns 11” T30-2 RED 14 turns 10”
C 59 mounting

Missing connection fix:
A jumper must be connected between the top of R14 and R13 as shown the following picture and diagram. A capacitor
lead clipping can be used for the jumper. Adding this jumper connects 5 to R14 and R19, which should have been
connected to the via to the right of the top of R14.
Jack wiring
●Cut the insulated hookup wire to lengths about 1.5” long.
Install the wires to the top side of the board, then connect to
the corresponding connections on the jacks.
●If mounting the board in an Altoids tin, the jacks will mount
as close to the bottom side of the board as possible. In order
for this to work, the wires need to come off the top side of
the board and wrap back around the edge to connect to the
jacks.
Jacks shown wired into an Altoids tin. Antenna jack wiring in tin.
11
Add jumper
here.
Add Jumper

Check out and Calibration:
Clean the board of any flux residue. This will help in inspecting all the solder connections. “Electrical Parts Cleaner”,
available at most commercial electrical parts suppliers works well to remove flux. Denatured alcohol will also work. Avoid
rubbing alcohol, as this leaves a white residue. Using your magnifier, inspect all the solder connections, looking in
particular for any you might have missed making. Hopefully, you have all the ICs installed with the proper orientation and
location, as this type of error is not easy to correct. Same goes with the caps, as it’s now difficult to verify their correct
values.
●If you have already installed L14, remove it before doing the initial power up tests.
•Use an ohm meter to check for shorts across the DC in, +3.5 and +5 regulator outputs to ground.
•Find and eliminate short if one is detected.
•Wire up a 9 supply to the power plug (Use 9 battery or current limited supply set to 50 ma limiting) to start. This
way, if there is a problem, its unlikely any damage will result from too much current being drawn.
• Plug a set of stereo headphones into the headphone jack.
•Plug in the power supply
•You should hear the power up message “4” or “2” in the headphones and see a that number appear on the LED display.
If you hear this message, you know the processor and audio amp are working fine.
•Check the voltage at TP1, it should be 0 volts. If not, check connections on R19.
•Check the voltage on the PA gates, Q7 to Q9. This voltage should be zero (0) volts. If it is not, check solder
connections on U8 pins.
•Plug a paddle into the paddle jack and send some dits and dahs. You should of course, hear them in the headphones.
•Connect a voltmeter between ground and the Drain of Q5, the PA keying transistor. (Large metal tab is Drain).
•Send a string of Dahs and watch the voltmeter. The voltage reading should go to near the DC supply input voltage. It
should then slowly decay to zero when you stop sending. This is the voltmeter discharging the .1 uF bypass cap. Check
the soldering in the keying circuit if there is a problem.
•Remove power from the board.
•You can now install L14.
Reference Oscillator Frequency Calibration:
NOTE: Entering the calibration mode will rest the reference, offset and initial power on frequencies to their default values.
This is done to ensure “known good values” are used in the off chance the stored values become corrupted.
The “ideal” reference frequency of 40.000,000 MHz is initially assumed to calculate the DDS FO frequency. In practice,
the reference oscillator has a +/- 100 ppm tolerance. This tolerance can cause an error between what the processor thinks
the operating frequency is and what it really is. The error would be most noticeable on the higher bands, where the
reference clock is less divided. Therefore, this calibration is provided to adjust the value of the reference frequency value
used in the DDS frequency calculation to exactly match the actual oscillator frequency and therefore produce the expected
operating frequency.
However, the typical error is small enough that if you don't have an accurate frequency counter, it is usually best to use the
default values and “click past” this part of the calibration.
This calibration is most easily done with an accurate frequency counter. If you do not have access to one, but do have a rig
with general coverage, good calibration and can tune to 10 MHz, then you can use that. If you can connect up a PSK
program or other audio spectrum analyzer software which can show you the audio frequency of the signal from the rig's
audio, this will help a lot. Set the rig to receive USB at 9.999,000 MHz. This will cause a 1 kHz beat note when a
10.000,000 MHz signal is received. The PSK waterfall can be used to show you when you have adjusted the DDS frequency
to produce the exact 1 kHz beat note. A short pick up wire attached to a piece of coax going to the rigs antenna jack and
placed near the TP1 test point should pick up plenty of signal. If you have no means of accurately measuring 10 MHz, skip
through this procedure by clicking the MENU switch after step 6 and go directly to the LO cal procedure.
1. Click and hold closed both the RI and une UP switches.
2. Apply power.
3. “CR” will be annunciated by the side tone. “C” and then “r” will appear on the LED display when calibration mode is
enabled.
4. Release the switches.
5. Connect a frequency counter to DDS TP1.
6. Wait a minute or two for the oscillator to stabilize.
7. Using the tune up and tune down switches, adjust the frequency at TP1 to exactly 10.000,000 MHz.
8. Once the frequency is adjusted, click the MENU switch to store the new reference frequency.
9. The side tone will now announce “CO” A low pitched tone will be heard in the headphones. The display will change to
“o”
NOTE: if you don't get any output from the DDS, often times this is due to a bad or missing solder connection to one of the
12

reference oscillator pins. Also check the soldering to the DDS chip.
Local Oscillator frequency trim and BFO adjustment:
This is used to trim the LO frequency to exactly match the center response of the IF crystal filter. This will ensure the best
sensitivity of the receiver. This adjustment is made with the help of an Oscilloscope. An audio spectrum analyzer program
running on your PC would also work. A program of this type is located on the CD. If one isn’t available, skip to step 5 and
peak the BFO trimmer by ear. You can solder a short wire to TP2 and one of the headphone jack pins to hang a clip lead
onto.
NOTE: The default offset frequency comes out very close to ideal and likely will need no adjustment. The more important
adjustment is setting the BFO trimmer so that the beat note peaks in the audio filter response.
1. Connect a ‘Scope to TP2 (pin 1 of U3) ( 2 / div, 1 ms / div sweep)
2. Preset the BFO trimmer cap (CT1) by giving it about a ¼ turn.
3. You should hear a pretty loud tone in the headphones.
4. Repetitively click the Tune Down switch to step the LO frequency through the pass band of the filter. Note when the
signal at TP2 starts to decrease. Now start clicking the Tune Up switch and keep track of how many steps it takes
before the signal starts to decrease again. This tells you how wide the filter is. (Each click (step) tunes about 10 Hz.)
Divide the number of clicks by 2, then re-tune with the Tune Down switch that number of steps. The LO frequency will
now be set to the center of the pass band of the filter.
5. Move the input to the Scope to one of the headphone jack pins.
6. Adjust the green BFO trimmer cap, CT1, and peak the audio signal at the headphone jack. This centers the beat note in
the audio band pass filter.
7. Click the MENU button again to finish the calibration. The rig will reset and restart.
If the above calibrations worked, you know everything but the transmitter and filter boards are working properly. You can
now go onto the testing and adjusting the band filters. Otherwise, go to the trouble shooting guide on page and track the
reason the rig isn’t working down.
Receiver in ut eaking:
The two trimmers labeled “BNDB” peak the band selected with the slide switches set to the right. (normally 20 Meters).
Like wise, the two trimmers labeled “BNDA” peak the band selected with the switches set to the left (normally 40 Meters).
Attach an antenna or signal generator the antenna input and peak the trimmers for best signal or band noise. Note: the
receive can seem to be quite “deaf” until the trimmers are peaked. 20M may not have enough atmospheric noise to be
noticed, so finding a signal to peak or using a signal for an other transmitter maybe required.
Transmitter test and out ut (low ass) filter adjustment:
●Connect a QRP watt meter and 50 ohm dummy load to the antenna jack
●Connect a 9.0 olt supply. Other voltages can be used, but power out at 9.0 volts is the only known data point for
sure.
●Use a straight key or keep the Dash paddle closed when turning power to the board on so it goes into straight key
mode. This will be quicker then setting it into “tune” mode, which could also be done to get a steady carrier.
●Key the transmitter and check the power output. If using a 9.0 volt supply, the power should be close to 2.5 watts
and between 4.5 and 5 watts with a 12.0 volt supply.
●Power out can be tweaked by adjusting the spacing of the turns on the LPF toroids. Typically, moving turns closer
together on the coils on the PA side of the filter (L10 or L12) will decrease power while spreading them apart (to
be move evenly spaced around the core) will increase power. Adjusting L11 or L13 will have less effect, but can
influence the PA efficiency.
●To achieve maximum PA efficiency, using an milliamp meter to monitor the current while making the filter
adjustments can allow you to find the point where you get the most power out with the least amount of current.
●Once one band is done, switch to the other and make any adjustments if needed.
13

Troubleshooting:
With careful assembly, the MTR should power up and work great the first time power is applied. But we all know that
sometimes doesn't happen and you'll have to figure out why.
In nearly all cases, any problem can be tracked down to soldering issues, usually missing connections. On occasion, the
connection can look good as there is solder there, but it did not stick to the pad under the part. This kind of problem is a
bit harder to find then the missing solder.
So, before you do anything else, spend a few minutes with a magnifying glass and a strong light and inspect the board,
looking closely at all the solder connections. Inspecting the connections is easier if the board is cleaned of flux. CRC brand
QD Electronic Cleaner, available in the automobile section of Wal-Mart does a good job of removing flux. Use an old (but
clean) toothbrush to scrub the board. De-natured alcohol can also be used (do not use rubbing alcohol, it will leave a white
film residue).
It also helps to know the general area to look for a problem. The chances are good most everything is working and there
are only one or a couple of problems to find. It really helps to have a 'Scope and signal generator, but a D M will usually
point you in the right direction.
Possible specific problems:
●Dead!
Supply wired with correct polarity?
Connections to Q6. This part acts like a diode, but D2 and R24 bias the gate so the mosfet turns “on”, eliminating the
diode drop.
Output from 5 and 3.3 regulators? If not, check connections and for shorts to ground.
Connections to U10, the processor. Check power supply pins and X6 crystal connections. The processor will not do
anything except set the ports direction and state unless the 32 kHz clock is running.
●Missing segments on LED display.
Check connections on R31 to R38, on the display and processor leads.
●No receive
Could you hear and adjust the BFO beat note in Cal mode?
If so, everything pass the first mixer (U3) is working and you can concentrate on the input circuits. If no BFO note was
heard, continue below:
DDS working?
If not, a common problem is often with the soldering of the reference oscillator. Make sure solder flowed into the little cups
and you didn't use too much solder and short to the metal cover. Check the connections of all the parts in the area around
the the DDS chip, U6.
Got Audio?
The audio is remarkably quiet, so until you hook up an antenna, you probably will not hear any noise. If you can hear side
tone, then you know the problem is before the audio switch, U9 or a connection to it. Make sure the gate of Q1 is near 5
(junction of R14 and C36), if not, check connections in that area and make sure you added the jumper between R13 and
R14.
Mixers okay?
First, make sure they are in the correct way. The little “NXP” lettering marks the pin 1 corner of the chip. Check all the
connections around these parts.
●No transmit:
Not a whole lot to go wrong here.
Keyed voltage getting to L14? Check Q4, Q5 and associated parts.
Check connections to U8 and L14
Check connections on output filter toroid.
Make sure filter values matches the band.
14

oltage charts:
15
P1 1.4V RFIN P8 5.0V V+
P2 1.4V RFIN P7 4.3V OSC
P3 0V GND P 4.9V OSC
P4 3.9V OUT P5 3.9V OUT
U1/U3 SA 12 mixer oscillator
P1 2.5V OUT P8 5.0V V+
P2 2.5V -IN P7 2.5V OUT
P3 2.5V +IN P 2.5V -IN
P4 0V GND P5 2.5V +IN
U2 LM4808 audio amp
P1 2.2V Audio in P 3.5V Control
P2 0V GND P5 5V V+
P3 0V ST in P4 2.2V Audio out
U9 Analog SPDT switch
P1 0V TEST P28 3.3V MUTE
P2 3.3V V+ P27 3.3V DDS
P3 0V ST out P2 3.3V DDS
P4 0V GND P25 0V DDS
P5 2.7V osc P24 0V Tx key
P 1.7V osc P23 3.3V Tune up
P7 3.3V reset P22 3.3V MENU
P8 3.3V Tune dn P21 3.3V RIT
P9 3.3V Dash in P20 0/3.3V Band volt
P10 3.3V Dot in P19 .5 to 1.2 Batt V
P11 3.3V 7seg P18 3.3V 7seg
P12 3.3V 7seg P17 3.3V 7seg
P13 3.3V 7seg P1 3.3V 7seg
P14 3.3V 7seg P15 3.3V 7seg
U10 MPS430 MPU
P1 1.13V FS ADJ P20 .75V IOUTB
P2 1.17V REF out P19 .37V IOUT
P3 1.7 V COMP P18 0V AGND
P4 3.3V AVDD P17 .37V CMPin
P5 3.3V DVDD P1 0V CMPout
P 2.4V CAP P15 3.3V FSYNC
P7 0V DGND P14 3.3V SCLK
P8 1.7V 40 MHz P13 0V SDATA
P9 0V Fsel P12 0V SLEEP
P10 0V Psel P11 0V RESET
U AD9843 DDS
P1 gain P8 gain
P2 0V -IN P7
P3 0V +IN P 5.0V V+
P4 0V GND P5 2.5V OUT
U5 LM38 audio amp

Mounting into an enclosure.
Unlike previous incarnations of this rig, the jacks are not board mounted. This was done primarily to make room for board
mounting the two band filter parts, but has the side benefit of making a wider choice of enclosures besides an Altoids tin
possible.
The drill template below can be used to locate the holes which need to be drilled into an Altoids tin or other enclosure. The
diagram should print to true scale, but make sure the printer setting is for 8.5 x 11” paper and no page scaling.
Double sided tape can be used to hold the template down, but be sure to get it lined up well first. Folding the template
over the sides of the tin will locate the holes for the jacks.
Drilling the thin sheet metal of the tin does not generally result in the cleanest holes. The best results are obtained if you
have a drill press. You should always make a dimple to center to drill bit with a center punch or other shape, pointy object.
Then drill a pilot hole using a small diameter bit, say 1/16”. This will keep the larger bits from wandering when you make
the larger holes. Back up the tin with a small block of wood so you don't deform the tin as you press in with the drill. Use a
hobby knife or round file to de-burr the hole.
The phone and power jack can't be located quite far enough down from the lip of the tin so that the lid will close. A small
notch in the lip of the lid will have to be made with a round file to make clearance for the mounting nuts for the jacks.
16
MENU RI DN FREQ UP
The Mountain topper

Operation:
Basic operation:
Turning the rig on and off:
As there is no power switch, the rig is turned on and off by inserting or removing the power plug from the jack. Make sure
the plug is firmly and fully inserted into the jack.
●When the rig is powered up, it checks the position of the band select switch and loads the initial values for that
band. The display will flash a number to indicate the currently selected band (8, 4, 3 or 2) and annunciate that
number in Morse.
●The initial frequency operating frequency will be the QRP calling frequency for that band as shown in the table
below. It is possible to change these default frequencies to another more to your liking later if you wish. Only two
of these bands are actually available for use, typically 40 and 20.
Band Display/Morse Initial frequency
________________________________
40 M 4 7.030 MHz
30 M 3 10.118 MHz
20 M 2 14.060 MHz
Volume control:
There is none! Instead, an automatic level control is built into the rig. This circuit limits the audio output level to about 280
m rms, which is about 5 mW into a 16 ohm load, typical for a pair of stereo headphones connected in parallel. With
sensitive ear buds, this can actually produce too much volume if your hearing is still good. In this case, an in line volume
control can be added in series with your headphones.
Band selection:
Three, DPDT switches are used to select one of the two bands the rig has been built for. Make sure all three switches are in
the same position, i.e., to the right or to the left.
●The switch near the top edge of the case tells the processor which band is selected.
●After switching bands, push one of the control buttons along the bottom edge of the case. This will “wake up” the
processor which then checks the current position of the band switch. A number indicating the band selected will
will flash on the display as that number is being annunciated by Morse.
●When changing bands after initial power up, the last used frequency for that band will be loaded.
Control switches:
●Four push button switches control the
operation of the Mountain Topper.
●All switches have multiple functions.
The primary function of each switch is
labeled in red in the switch function
flow diagram shown to the right.
●Secondary functions are enabled by a
short click of either the <MENU>
switch or the <RI > switch, followed
by clicking the switch for the desired
function. This allows often used
secondary functions to be quickly
accessed.
●Print out this page and cut out the
diagram to paste in the lid of your tin
as a reminder of switch functions.
17

Frequency tuning:
The operating frequency of the rig is controlled by the UNE UP and UNE DOWN buttons. These are labeled on the front
panel with an up arrow and down arrow, respectively. “Clicking” the appropriate switch will increment or decrement the
current frequency by 50 Hz. Holding one of the tune switches closed for longer than one (1) second will start an auto-tune
mode. The frequency will now change in 100 Hz steps at a rate of about 10 steps a second as long as the switch is held
closed. Tuning will revert back to normal one step, 50 Hz tuning when the switch is released. The 100 Hz / 10 steps a
second tuning rate is a compromise between being able to scan the band at a reasonable rate, while not being so fast its
easy to miss weak signals.
Tuning limits:
The tuning range includes the entire band, though SSB reception is not possible since it will be received on the wrong
sideband. A double beep will sound when the band edges are reached and tuning will stop there, preventing out of band
transmission. A single beep will sound when you reach the edge of the USA CW band segment.
SPLIT MODES:
The MTR has only RIT (Receive Incremental Tuning) and is limited to a tuning range of +/- 1500 Hz. When RIT mode is
enabled, the LED display is used to give indications of where you are tuned in respect to the transmit frequency.
●RI is enabled by clicking and holding closed the <RI > switch closed until the letter “R” is annunciated in
Morse by the side tone. There is a slight delay after closing the switch and the sending of the “R”, as the RIT
switch is also used to activate the transmission of keyer messages.
●RI is exited by clicking and holding closed the <RI > switch until a “dot” is sounded by the side tone. The
display will blank and the original (Rx =Tx) operating frequency which was in use when RIT was activated will be
restored.
LED Display while in RI mode:
While RIT is active, the display is used to show the approximate Rx
frequency delta relative to the Tx frequency, as illustrated by the diagram.
●A [0] is displayed when Rx = Tx frequency. A side tone beep is also
sounded when you tune back to the frequencies being equal.
●When you tune above or below the Tx frequency, but by less then
250 Hz, the display will show [-]
●When you tune beyond delta 250 Hz, LED segments above or below
the center [-] segment will light, changing in a clock wise direction
for above the Tx frequency and counter clock wise for below the Tx
●Between 250 and 450 Hz, the upper left or bottom left segment will light. The upper segment for above the Tx
frequency and the bottom segment for below.
●Between 500 and 950Hz, the top or bottom segment will light.
●Above 1000 Hz, the upper right or bottom right segment will light.
●AT 1500 Hz, the tuning limit, a beep will sound in the side tone.
oggling between the RI Rx frequency and the RX = x frequency:
●Momentarily pushing the <MENU> button will toggle the receive frequency back to the transmit frequency to
check if the frequency is still clear or if someone is calling you there.
●The top and center segments of the LED display will light, which is as close as we can get to making an equal
sign: [=].
●While in Rx = Tx mode, you may transmit using the key or paddle, but no other functions will be available.
●Push the <MENU> button again to toggle back to the RIT frequency.
MENU:
The Menu switch is used to access, activate or escape from, the various functions and options available in the rig. The
Menu switch is sometimes used alone and sometimes in conjunction with the other switches to activate a function. In all
cases, how long the menu switch is held closed will determine what function is to be activated.
Quick selections:
The DFE, Tune mode and battery voltage functions can be quickly accessed by using the Menu switch in conjunction with
one of the three other switches.
●Click and release the <MENU>, then one of the other three switches clicked within 1/2 second to activate the
desired function.
18

●<RI > = DFE (direct frequency entry)
●<une Down> = Tune Mode
●<une Up> = Battery oltage
DFE Mode:
“DFE” is annunciated when mode is activated, [ - ] is displayed on LED
This mode allows you to enter a desired operating frequency using the paddle. This can be any frequency within the upper
and lower band edges currently in use. Simply use the paddle to enter the frequency numbers in Morse, starting with the
100 kHz digit and ending with the 100 Hz digit (four numbers total). The LED display will flash the number which has been
entered and the side tone will sound a beep. If a number is miss sent, a “?” will be annunciated and that digit must be re-
entered. When four digits have been entered, the rig will re-tune to that frequency. If the frequency entered is beyond the
tuning limits, DFE mode will simply terminate and the frequency will remain where it was.
NOTE:
●DFE mode is not available if the rig is in Straight key mode.
●DFE mode is not available when RIT is active.
●DFE mode can be escaped by clicking the Menu switch at anytime before all 4 digits have been entered.
●Some “Cut numbers” can be used. These are “T” = 0, “A” = 1, “U” = 2 “ ” = 3, “N” = 9.
une Mode:
“T” is annunciated when mode is activated, “t” shown on display
NO E: Tune mode is not available if the rig is in Straight key mode.
This mode allows you to toggle the transmitter on and off using the paddle. This makes it easier to adjust a small antenna
tuner if two hands are required to operate it (One to hold it in place and one to turn knobs). This mode also allows you to
make power output measurements, which require a steady carrier for a few seconds in order to make an accurate reading.
●If a constant carrier is not needed, it is better to send a string of Dots then use Tune mode for adjusting a tuner.
●Toggle transmitter on: Tap the LEFT (DOT) paddle.
●Toggle transmitter off: Tap RIGHT (DASH) paddle.
●Exit Tune mode: Click Menu switch, “E” annunciated.
Battery Voltage:
This mode reads the input voltage to the board and then displays it on the LED display and annunciated in Morse. The
letter “B” is sent before the digits during Morse annunciate.
MENU switch only selecte functions:
●Frequency,
●Keyer code speed (S)
●keyer memory entry (M)
●Digital transmit mode (D)
●User preferences (P)
With the exception of Frequency, click and hold closed the Menu switch until the letter on the 7 segment display appears
and the Morse letter identifying the desired function has been annunciated by the side tone, then release the switch. The
switch must be released before the next letter in the menu sequence is annunciated to select the desired function.
Frequency rea out:
● Click and then release the <MENU> switch will activate the frequency readout.
The default mode of readout is both a numerical readout, sequenced one digit at a time on the LED display, and
annunciated in Morse by the side tone. The 100 kHz, 10 kHz, 1 kHz and 100 Hz digits are indicated, in that order. MHz
digits are implied by the band in which the rig is currently operating on. A dash [ - ] on the display and an “R” in Morse
indicates the decimal point separating the 1 kHz digit from the 100 Hz digit. Zero's are sent as the cut number “T” in
Morse. Therefore, a frequency such as 7.0400 will be sent as T4TRT in Morse and seen as 040-0 on the display. It is
possible to set the rig to indicate the frequency only with the LED display.
S: Selecting Keyer code speed
“S” on the display
Keyer speed has a range of about 10 to 35 wpm. Initial power on speed is set to 20 wpm. Code speeds are selected in
19

approximatively 1 wpm increment using the paddle.
●Click and hold closed the MENU switch until the letter “S” is annunciated and appears on the 7 segment display,
then release the switch.
●This mode will automatically exit after 1 second if no action has taken place in that time.
●Increase speed: Close DAH paddle or une up button .
●Decrease speed: Close the DI paddle or tune down button.
NO E: If the rig is in Straight key mode, the Tune up and Tune down switches can used to change code speed. This allows
changing the code speed used to send previously stored messages.
Saving the selected code speed to memory:
If you would like to save the current code speed to memory so that it will be loaded on power up as the default speed, this
can be done in the “user preferences” function.
M: Keyer Memory entry:
“n” on the display – the closest we can get to “m” with 7 segments
There are three keyer memories available. Each message location an store up to 63 characters, which includes word
spaces.
Upon releasing the Menu switch after the letter “M” has been annunciated, the receiver will mute and entry of the message
via the paddle may begin.
●If keyer memory entry has been selected by mistake, clicking the Menu switch will exit this mode without
disturbing the contents of the memory, provided the paddle has not yet been used.
Timing for determining letter and word spaces is automatic and is based on “ideal” timing. Since many of us have a hard
time sending with ideal letter and word space timing, generally running letter groups and words together, segments on the
LED will flash to let you know when a letter time out or word space time out has occurred. The upper left LED segment (f)
will flash at the letter space interval and the upper right segment (b) will flash at the word space time out. Paying
attention to the flashing lights will allow you to enter a message without timing mistakes.
Checking and storing the message:
●When you have finished keying in the messages, click the <Menu> switch.
●The message will then play back so you can check that they were entered correctly.
●If the playback is good and there are no mistakes,
○Click < une down>, < une up> or <Menu>, to store the message in one of those three locations. It
takes a second or so to store the message and once done, the side tone will beep once and the rig will return
to normal operation.
○Click <RI > if you the message had mistakes and you want to re-enter it. “EM” (Enter Message) will be
annunciated by the side tone.
●If you want to enter and store another message, the memory mode must be again selected using the MENU
switch, as once a message is stored, the rig goes back to normal operation.
Sending messages:
●First, click the <RI > button, then within 1/2 second, click either the < une Down>, < une Up> or <Menu>
switch to transmit the desired message.
●Message 1 is sent by clicking the < une Down> switch within 1/2 of a second after releasing the Split switch.
●Message 2 is sent by clicking the < une Up> switch within 1/2 of a second after releasing the Split switch.
●Message 3 is sent by clicking the <MENU> switch within 1/2 of a second after releasing the Split switch.
Message 1 can also be sent by tapping the DAH paddle
Message 2 can also be sent by tapping the DI paddle
Message Pause and Stop :
After a message has started being transmitted, it maybe paused or stopped using the paddle.
Pause: Closing the DIT paddle will pause the message for as long as the paddle is held closed. Pause will start when a
character being sent has finished sending.
Stop: Closing the DAH paddle will terminate the transmission of the message when a character currently being sent has
been completed.
20