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Kuma Stoves K-WC Wood Classic User manual

1
KUMA STOVES
Rathdrum ID, USA
MODEL# K-WC: Wood Classic
Tested to: UL1482
Report #: 123-S-02-2
Testing performed by Omni Test Laboratories
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Rev. 1-10-13
2
Welcome to the Kuma family.
Kuma is a modified version of the Greek word Kauma that means
“a great heat”.
We would like to take the time to say thank you for
purchasing a Kuma stove. If this is your first Kuma stove, you
have joined a long list of family members, some since 1981. We
are a family business that still desires to maintain a good
relationship with each and every one of our customers. Our
mission is to provide you with a quality product that will last a
lifetime. If you ever have a problem with your stove, we will do
what is needed to get it resolved and keep you warm.
You may have noticed a portion of the Bible enclosed in your
owner’s packet. It is a small gift for you. Our faith in Jesus Christ
is very important to us and we have that faith because there is hope
in heaven. That hope comes from the message of truth that is found
in this New Testament.
Thank you for allowing us the opportunity to warm your
house. May God bless you and we anticipate that you will enjoy
the use of your new Kuma wood stove.
Sincerely,
The Freeman Family
3
Under specific test conditions, this heater has been shown to meet
the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Washington State
emission limits for residential wood stoves.
Please read the safety precautions and the entire installation and
operation instructions carefully. Failure to properly install and
maintain your wood stove can result in an unsafe condition.
Contents
Section 1…..………………………...………….Safety Precautions
Section 2………………...…Mobile Home Installation Instructions
Section 3………………………Residential Installation Instructions
Section 4……………………Wood Burning Operation Instructions
Section 5……………………………………………....Maintenance
Section 6…………………….Installation Clearances and Diagrams
Section 7………………………………………..…Troubleshooting
Section 8…………………………………...Replacement Parts List
Section 9……………………………………………….…Warranty
Section 10………………………………………...EPA Information
4
Section 1– Safety Precautions
Install and use in accordance with the manufacturers installation and operation instructions
contained in this manual only.
1. If this stove is not properly installed, a house fire can occur. For your protection, follow the
installation instructions provided. We recommend contacting local building or fire officials
regarding restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area. We also recommend
that your Kuma model Wood Classic wood stove be installed by a properly trained and
licensed installer, preferably a NFI (National Fireplace Institute) expert.
2. DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVICING ANOTHER
APPLIANCE.
3. Do not use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids
to start or “freshen up” a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the heater while
it is in use.
4. Do not burn garbage.
5. DO NOT OVERFIRE. If any part of the stove or chimney glows, the stove is in an overfire
condition. If this happens, shut the air control off immediately.
6. WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN A SLEEPING ROOM
7. CAUTION: The structural integrity of the floor, wall and ceiling/roof must be maintained.
8. DO NOT USE SINGLE WALL PIPE FOR ANY CHIMNEY APPLICATION, EXTERIOR
OR THROUGH THE WALL OR CEILING. Single wall pipe may only be used as a
connection between the stove and an approved masonry or stainless steel chimney. Single wall
pipe may not be used as a connector in mobile homes.
9. When installing into an existing masonry or metal chimney, examine the chimney system
carefully. If you have any questions, seek professional advice. We recommend having existing
chimneys cleaned and inspected by a qualified professional prior to the installation of your new
stove.
10. NOTE ALL MINIMUM CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS TO COMBUSTIBLES.
Installation must comply with minimum clearances as listed in this manual. (see section 6)
11. Do not operate this stove with the door in an open position.
12. Do not operate this stove with the ash pan open.
13. This stove must be connected to a minimum 6” diameter listed chimney that complies with U.L.
type 103HT factory built chimney or a code approved masonry chimney. If the masonry chimney
does not meet code, a U.L. 1777 approved liner must be installed.
14. When connecting single wall or double wall connector pipe to the stove and chimney, use 3
screws per pipe joint including 3 screws securing the pipe to the stove. Depending on the type of
double wall pipe you are using, it may also be necessary to fasten it at the chimney. Simpson
Duravent’s DVL double wall uses a snap lock connector and does not need screws.
15. When connecting this stove to a masonry chimney, make sure you observe all applicable
clearances including walls, ceilings and other combustible material. A masonry chimney must be
minimum 6” diameter and constructed with a liner according to NFPA code 211. If you have any
questions about the condition or the code compliance of your masonry chimney, please speak
with a qualified professional.
5
16. WHEN PENETRATING A COMBUSTIBLE WALL TO CONNECT TO AN OUTSIDE
MASONRY CHIMNEY YOU MUST BE CERTAIN THAT THE WALL PASS THROUGH
IS A SAFE AND LISTED METHOD. Please refer to NFPA code 211 for details about listed
wall pass through methods. To obtain a copy of the NFPA code 211, you may visit their website
at www.nfpa.org or call them toll free at 1(800)344-3555. Your local building department may
also have information regarding NFPA code 211.
EXCERPT FROM NFPA 211
6
Section 2– Mobile home installation
INSTALL AND USE IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTALLATION
AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS ONLY. WHILE MOST ANYONE WITH BASIC
CARPENTRY SKILLS CAN SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY INSTALL THEIR KUMA WOOD
STOVE, IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT IT IS INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED
PROFESSIONAL WHO IS PROPERLY TRAINED AND LICENSED–PREFERABLY AN NFI
CERTIFIED (NATIONAL FIREPLACE INSTITUE) EXPERT.
CAUTION: The structural integrity of the mobile home floor, walls and ceiling/roof must be maintained.
Use additional bracing if required. Never cut a load bearing wall or engineered truss. Use elbows if
necessary to offset the pipe.
CAUTION: NEVER INSTALL A STOVE IN A SLEEPING ROOM.
STEP 1:Make sure you have the proper tools, materials, and stove components.
Tools:
1. Reciprocating Saw
2. Assorted Screwdrivers
3. Measuring Tape
4. Pencil
5. Plumb Line
6. Electric or Cordless Drill with assorted drill and driver bits
7. Tin Shears
8. Utility Knife
9. Pliers
10. Hammer
11. Assorted Wrenches
Materials:
1. Caulking to seal roof flashing and storm collar. High temperature silicone is recommended.
2. Assorted heavy duty nails and screws.
3. Short pieces of 2x4 or 2x6. Two pieces minimum 24” long.
4. Copper wire (8 gauge) for grounding. Grounding “clamp” “terminal” or “lug” for attaching
ground wire at stove and mobile home frame.
Stove Components: (each component has installation instrucions included see sec. 8 for a complete
list of accessories)
1. Stove body (K-WC)
2. Pedestal or leg kit (KA-WCPED, KA-WLEGSTEEL, etc.)
3. Door Kit (DOOR1CASTC, DOOR1GOLDC, etc.)
4. Outside air kit (KA-OUTSIDEAIR)
5. Optional Blower (KA-BLOWER1)
Determining the stove location:
When choosing a stove location there are a few things that should be considered.
1. Try to choose a location that is centrally located in the house.
2. Try to choose a location that will be easy to access from your wood storage area.
3. Survey the roof area above and around the location of the chimney exit. Be sure there are no
dormers, roof valleys or any other roof irregularities that could cause difficulty when trying to set
and seal the roof flashing.
7
4. If possible, survey the attic area above and around the location of the chimney. Be sure there are
no major obstructions such as plumbing, heating ducts, electrical wires, phone cables, etc. Also
check the crawl space below and around the stove location for the same obstructions.
STEP 2: Installing the chimney.
IMPORTANT: These instructions are a very basic guideline for the steps to installing your chimney.
For complete instructions, refer to the installation manual that came with your chimney. Chimney
installation instructions are usually located in the box with the chimney cap or chimney support
components. If you have any questions about the installation of your chimney, please contact the
dealer where you purchased your stove.
CAUTION: Inspect all chimney components for damage. Do not use any damaged chimney
components.
1. Familiarize yourself with the clearances of the stove, for the configuration in which you have
chosen to install, i.e. corner installation or straight wall installation (see section 6). Notice the
clearances listed for the chimney, this will help you determine the location of the hole in the
ceiling.
2. Once you’ve determined the hole location for the chimney, use a drywall saw or reciprocating saw
to cut the ceiling to the desired hole size. BE SURE TO CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE CUTTING THE HOLE, REFER TO PIPE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
FOR HOLE SIZE.
3. Use a plumb to transfer the ceiling hole center to the underside of the roof sheeting in the attic.
Once you’ve marked the hole center on the roof sheeting, drill a hole from the inside or poke a
screw or nail through the sheeting so you can find that location once you’re on the roof.
4. Always be careful when using a ladder and working on a roof. Have someone hold the
ladder for you while you are climbing up and down. Use a positioning belt or harness and
safety rope to secure yourself on the roof. Locate the hole or screw/nail on the roof that you
poked through from the attic. Lay the roof flashing down and center over the hole, screw or nail.
Using a pencil, trace the inside of the flashing cone onto the roof. Remove the flashing and use a
reciprocating saw to cut out the hole. Cut the hole out about 1” larger than the mark all the
way around.
5. Use the two pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 to brace across the trusses in the attic. Position the bracing in a
way that you will be able to attach the chimney support with the proper clearance to the bracing
(see chimney installation instructions for proper clearances). Attach the chimney support to the
bracing using screws or nails.
6. Using a flat pry bar, gently lift the shingles off the roof from the middle of the hole up. Slide the
flashing up under the shingles on the top half of the hole and let the flashing sit on top of the
shingles on the bottom half of the hole. Use silicone or roof tar to seal underneath the flashing and
use screws or nails to fasten the flashing to the roof. Be sure to apply a small amount of sealer to
each screw head.
7. Slide the first section of chimney through the flashing and into the chimney support. Chimney
supports vary from one brand of pipe to another. Be sure that the first section of pipe is well
secured into the chimney support, again, paying close attention to the chimney manufacturers
installation instructions.
8. Continue to fasten chimney sections above the first one until the correct height is reached (see pipe
installation instructions and section 6 of this manual).
9. Install the chimney cap.
10. Install the storm collar above the flashing and use high temp silicone to seal.
11. If necessary, install a roof brace or guy wires to steady the chimney. Bracing is usually required if
the chimney extends more that five feet above the roof.
8
STEP 3: Installing the Hearth and Outside air.
CAUTION: The Kuma Wood Classic Stove can be configured as a Freestanding Stove, supported by
either Legs or a Pedestal Base. Each configuration has different floor protection requirements. See the
section below that pertains to your particular installation.
Minimum Requirements:
The minimum floor protection requirements for the Kuma Wood Classic model are as follows:
Floor protection must consist of a continuous non-combustible material and extend a minimum of 16 in
front of the loading door and 6" to both sides and the rear of the stove body.
Additional requirements for material thickness and thermal resistance are described below.
1. Wood Classic with Pedestal Base: Installed as a freestanding stove on a pedestal base the Kuma
Wood Classic requires Ember Protection only. Ember Protection can take the recommended form
of a manufactured Type-1 floor protector listed to UL-1618, or a non-combustible continuous
material with a MINIMUM thickness of 3/8”.
2. Wood Classic with Legs: Installed as a freestanding stove on legs the Kuma Wood Classic
requires both continuous ember protection and Thermal Protection with a minimum R-Value of
0.60. Thermal Protection can take the recommended form of a manufactured Type-2 floor
protector listed to UL-1618 with a tested R-Value higher than R = 0.60. Alternately a site built or
existing hearth can be used provided they meet the minimum size and thermal resistance
requirements. Never install this stove with legs on an existing hearth unless you can determine it
provides a minimum thermal resistance of R = 0.60.
CAUTION: The Kuma Wood Classic Stove can be equipped with an optional Soapstone top Accessory.
When this Model is installed with a Soapstone top, the requirements for hearth protection change. An R-
Value of 0.60 must be added to the requirements listed above. See the instructions and safety label that
are included with the Soapstone top Accessory.
Outside Air – Outside air is required in all manufactured home installations.
1. Kuma stoves does not particularly require that outside air be directly connected to this
stove, However, some state or local building codes may mandate outside air. If your state or
local building code requires an outside air supply use part# KA-OUTSIDEAIR. If you are unable
to supply a direct connection to the stove or if you need additional ventilation due to room air
starvation, we suggest the following:
a. Provide a passive air supply to the home. The air vent should be a minimum of 4” in
diameter.
b. The air supply must be provided to the same room that the stove is installed in.
c. The air supply should utilize a barometric damper so that air is only supplied to the room
if the house pressure becomes negative.
Visit www.woodheat.org for more information on the use of outside air.
2. When building a hearth pad on site, be sure to leave an area open for the installation of the
outside air vent. Once the hearth is positioned according to the minimum clearances, locate and
mark out the hole for the 4” outside are vent. On a pedestal model stove, this hole may be
anywhere under the stove base. On a leg model stove, try and locate the hole to line up with the
hole in the bottom of the stove. On a pre-manufactured hearth, use a hole saw or circular saw to
cut through just the backing board then use a hammer and firmly hit the tile or stone on the top
side. If the backing board was cut to the correct depth, the tile or stone will break out very clean.
Also using a hole saw or circular saw cut the hole through the home floor into the crawl space. Be
sure to line this hole up with the one in the hearth.
9
3. If you are installing your outside air vent through the wall, use a 4” hole saw or reciprocating saw
to cut the hole through the wall. BE SURE TO CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS IN THE
WALL.
STEP 4: Setting the stove and connecting to the chimney
1. Attach the legs or pedestal to the stove following the instructions provided in the box with them.
Once the legs or pedestal is attached, set the stove gently on the hearth using cardboard to protect
the hearth. (If using cast or plated legs you must use legs spacer part# KA-WCLSK)
2. Position the stove on the hearth according to the clearances shown on the diagrams in section 6.
Be sure that the stove is at least minimum clearance from all combustible walls and materials. If
possible it is advisable to set the stove 1-2 inches further away from the combustibles than
required.
3. USING DOUBLE WALL PIPE ONLY, (single wall is not approved for a mobile home) connect
the stove to the chimney. If necessary, use elbows to offset the pipe so that the stove can remain at
the correct clearance and still connect to the chimney. Secure each pipe joint with three screws,
using the screws provided with the pipe.
4. Drill a small hole through the hearth and route the 8 gauge copper wire into the crawl space. Use
a grounding “connector” or “lug” to attach the ground wire to the stove and to the frame of the
mobile home.
5. When required by local code, you will need to fasten the stove to the floor of the mobile home. To
fasten a leg model, simply mark the location of the hole in the bottom of the legs, drill holes and
bolt into the bottom of the leg from the crawl space. To fasten a pedestal model, holes will need
to be drilled in the pedestal base. Once the holes are drilled in the base, mark the location on the
floor and use bolts and nuts or lag screws to fasten.
Your stove is now ready for use. If your stove installation required a permit and requires inspection by the
local building department please do not forget to call for an inspection. It is important that your permit and
inspection be finalized, as some insurance companies will require the stove to be inspected. It is also a
great idea to give your insurance a call and let them know that you have installed a wood stove.
PLEASE REFER TO SECTION 4-Wood Burning Operation Instructions before lighting your first fire.
10
Section 3– Residential installation
INSTALL AND USE IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTALLATION
AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS ONLY. WHILE MOST ANYONE WITH BASIC
CARPENTRY SKILLS CAN SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY INSTALL THEIR KUMA WOOD
STOVE, IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT IT IS INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED
PROFESSIONAL WHO IS PROPERLY TRAINED AND LICENSED–PREFERABLY AN NFI
CERTIFIED (NATIONAL FIREPLACE INSTITUE) EXPERT.
CAUTION: The Structural integrity of the floor, walls and ceiling/roof must be maintained. Use
additional bracing if required. Never cut a load bearing wall or engineered truss. Use elbows if necessary
to offset the pipe.
CAUTION: NEVER INSTALL A STOVE IN A SLEEPING ROOM.
STEP 1:Make sure you have the proper tools, materials, and stove components.
Tools:
1. Reciprocating Saw
2. Assorted Screwdrivers
3. Measuring Tape
4. Pencil
5. Plumb Line
6. Electric or Cordless Drill with assorted drill and driver bits
7. Tin Shears
8. Utility Knife
9. Pliers
10. Hammer
11. Assorted Wrenches
Materials:
1. Caulking to seal roof flashing and storm collar. High temperature silicone is recommended.
2. Assorted heavy duty nails and screws.
3. Short pieces of 2x4 or 2x6. Two pieces minimum 24” long.
Stove Components: Each component has installation instrucions included. (See section 8 for a
complete list of accessories.)
1. Stove body (K-WC)
2. Pedestal or leg kit (KA-WCPED, KA-WLEGSTEEL, etc.)
3. Door Kit (DOOR1CASTC, DOOR1GOLDC, etc.)
4. Outside air kit (KA-OUTSIDEAIR) Outside air is only required for manufactured homes.
Check your local building codes
Determining the stove location:
When choosing a stove location there are a few things that should be considered.
1. Try to choose a location that is centrally located in the house.
2. Try to choose a location that will be easy to access from your wood storage area.
3. Survey the roof area above and around the location of the chimney exit. Be sure there are no
dormers, roof valleys or any other roof irregularities that could cause difficulty when trying to set
and seal the roof flashing.
11
4. If possible, survey the attic area above and around the location of the chimney. Be sure there are
no major obstructions such as plumbing, heating ducts, electrical wires, phone cables, etc. Also
check the crawl space below and around the stove location for the same obstructions.
STEP 2: Installing the chimney.
IMPORTANT: These instructions are a very basic guideline for the steps to install your chimney.
For complete instructions, refer to the installation manual that came with your chimney. Chimney
installation instructions are usually located in the box with the chimney cap or chimney support
components. DO NOT mix different brands of chimney components. If you have any questions about
the installation of your chimney, please contact the dealer where you purchased your stove.
CAUTION: Inspect all chimney components for damage. Do not use any damaged chimney
components.
Installing the chimney – Continued
1. Familiarize yourself with the clearances of the stove for the configuration in which you have
chosen to install i.e. corner installation or straight wall installation (see section 6). Notice the
clearances listed for the chimney, this will help you determine the location of the hole in the
ceiling.
2. Once you’ve determined the hole location for the chimney, use a drywall saw or reciprocating saw
to cut the ceiling to the desired hole size. BE SURE TO CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE CUTTING THE HOLE, REFER TO PIPE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
FOR HOLE SIZE.
3. Use a plumb to transfer the ceiling hole center to the underside of the roof sheeting in the attic.
Once you’ve marked the hole center on the roof sheeting, drill a hole from the inside or poke a
screw or nail through the sheeting so you can find that location once you’re on the roof.
4. Always be careful when using a ladder and working on a roof. Have someone hold the
ladder for you while you are climbing up and down. Use a positioning belt or harness and
safety rope to secure yourself on the roof. Locate the hole or screw/nail on the roof that you
poked through from the attic. Lay the roof flashing down and center over the hole, screw or nail.
Using a pencil, trace the inside of the flashing cone onto the roof. Remove the flashing and use a
reciprocating saw to cut out the hole. Cut the hole out about 1” larger than the mark all the
way around.
5. Use the two pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 to brace across the trusses in the attic. Position the bracing in a
way that you will be able to attach the chimney support with the proper clearance to the bracing
(see chimney installation instructions for proper clearances). Attach the chimney support to the
bracing using screws or nails.
6. Using a flat pry bar, gently lift the shingles off the roof from the middle of the hole up. Slide the
flashing up under the shingles on the top half of the hole and let the flashing sit on top of the
shingles on the bottom half of the hole. Use silicone or roof tar to seal underneath the flashing and
use screws or nails to fasten the flashing to the roof. Be sure to apply a small amount of sealer to
each screw head.
7. Slide the first section of chimney through the flashing and into the chimney support. Chimney
supports vary from one brand of pipe to another, be sure that the first section of pipe is well
secured into the chimney support, again, paying close attention to the chimney manufacturers
installation instructions.
8. Continue to fasten chimney sections above the first one until the correct height is reached (see pipe
installation instructions)
9. Install the chimney cap
10. Install the storm collar above the flashing and use high temp silicone to seal.
11. If necessary, install a roof brace or guy wires to steady the chimney. Bracing is usually required if
the chimney extends more that five feet above the roof.
STEP 3: Installing the Hearth and Outside air.
12
STEP 3: Installing the Hearth and Outside air.
CAUTION: The Kuma Wood Classic Stove can be configured as a Freestanding Stove, supported by
either Legs or a Pedestal Base. Each configuration has different floor protection requirements. See the
section below that pertains to your particular installation.
Minimum Requirements:
The minimum floor protection requirements for the Kuma Wood Classic model are as follows:
Floor protection must consist of a continuous non-combustible material and extend a minimum of 16 in
front of the loading door and 6" to both sides and the rear of the stove body.
Additional requirements for material thickness and thermal resistance are described below.
1. Wood Classic with Pedestal Base: Installed as a freestanding stove on a pedestal base the Kuma
Wood Classic requires Ember Protection only. Ember Protection can take the recommended form
of a manufactured Type-1 floor protector listed to UL-1618, or a non-combustible continuous
material with a MINIMUM thickness of 3/8”.
2. Wood Classic with Legs: Installed as a freestanding stove on legs the Kuma Wood Classic
requires both continuous ember protection and Thermal Protection with a minimum R-Value of
0.60. Thermal Protection can take the recommended form of a manufactured Type-2 floor
protector listed to UL-1618 with a tested R-Value higher than R = 0.60. Alternately a site built or
existing hearth can be used provided they meet the minimum size and thermal resistance
requirements. Never install this stove with legs on an existing hearth unless you can determine it
provides a minimum thermal resistance of R = 0.60.
CAUTION: The Kuma Wood Classic Stove can be equipped with an optional Soapstone top Accessory.
When this Model is installed with a Soapstone top, the requirements for hearth protection change. An R-
Value of 0.60 must be added to the requirements listed above. See the instructions and safety label that
are included with the Soapstone top Accessory.
Outside Air – Outside air is required in all manufactured home installations.
1. Kuma stoves does not particularly require that outside air be directly connected to this
stove, However, some state or local building codes may mandate outside air. If your state or
local building code requires an outside air supply use part# KA-OUTSIDEAIR. If you are unable
to supply a direct connection to the stove or if you need additional ventilation due to room air
starvation, we suggest the following:
a. Provide a passive air supply to the home. The air vent should be a minimum of 4” in
diameter.
b. The air supply must be provided to the same room that the stove is installed in.
c. The air supply should utilize a barometric damper so that air is only supplied to the room
if the house pressure becomes negative.
Visit www.woodheat.org for more information on the use of outside air.
2. When building a hearth pad on site, be sure to leave an area open for the installation of the
outside air vent. Once the hearth is positioned according to the minimum clearances, locate and
mark out for the 4” outside are vent. On a pedestal model stove, this hole may be anywhere under
the stove base. On a leg model stove, try and locate the hole to line up with the hole in the bottom
of the stove. On a pre-manufactured hearth, use a hole saw or circular saw to cut through just the
backing board then use a hammer and firmly hit the tile or stone on the top side. If the backing
board was cut to the correct depth, the tile or stone will break out very clean. Also using a hole
saw or circular saw, cut the hole through the home floor into the crawl space. Be sure to line this
hole up with the one in the hearth.
13
3. If you are installing your outside air vent through the wall, use a 4” hole saw or reciprocating saw
to cut the hole through the wall. BE SURE TO CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS IN THE
WALL.
STEP 4: Setting the stove and connecting to the chimney
6. Attach the legs or pedestal to the stove following the instructions provided in the box with them.
Once the legs or pedestal is attached, set the stove gently on the hearth using cardboard to protect
the hearth. (If using cast or plated legs you must use leg spacer part# KA-WCLSK)
1. Position the stove on the hearth according to the clearances shown on the diagrams in section 6.
Be sure that the stove is at least minimum clearance from all combustible walls and materials. If
possible it is advisable to set the stove 1-2 inches further away from the combustibles than
required.
2. Using double wall or single wall stove pipe, connect the stove to the chimney. We recommend
using double wall pipe regardless of pipe clearance; however, single wall pipe is approved for use.
If necessary, use elbows to offset the pipe so that the stove can remain at the correct clearance and
still connect to the chimney. Secure each pipe joint with three screws, using the screws provided
with the pipe. Be sure to follow the clearance diagrams in section 6 pertaining to the correct pipe,
single or double wall. Single wall pipe has a minimum clearance of 18” and double wall a
minimum clearance of 8”
Your stove is now ready for use. If your stove installation required a permit and requires inspection by the
local building department please do not forget to call for inspection. It is important that your permit and
inspection be finalized, as some insurance companies will require the stove to be inspected. It is also a
great idea to give your insurance a call and let them know that you have installed a wood stove.
PLEASE REFER TO SECTION 4-Wood Burning Operation Instructions before lighting your first fire.
14
Section 4– Wood burning operation instructions
IMPORTANT:
Your new KUMA wood stove is shipped with a baffle packing to eliminate damage in shipping. Once the
stove is set in place and ready to use you will need to remove the baffle restraints. To remove the baffle
restraints, cut the ties in front of the nylon buckle and pull forward on the bottom cable until it pulls out.
Remove the two cardboard pieces from on top of the baffle and discard. Be careful not to dislodge or
damage the ceramic wool blanket on top of the bricks. Your stove is now ready for operation.
CAUTION:
When building the first couple of fires, be careful to build the fire small and increase the heat slowly over a
4-5 hour period. The paint on the stove cures with heat and needs to be done slowly. As the paint cures, it
A word about draft.
The principle of draft is that warm air rises. Your chimney provides draft which sucks the smoke up the
chimney. The stove does not “push” out the smoke. Your Wood Classic stove has been designed and
approved for use under normal conditions. Unacceptable smoking usually indicates poor draft in your
chimney system, not a problem with your stove.
Reccomendations on building and maintaining a fire.
Start by opening the air control on the stove to fully open. Fully open, depending on the model, will be
pulled all the way out to the left, pulled all the way forward, or in the case of the largest stove, the two
vents near the bottom will be pushed towards the center.
NEVER USE FLAMIBLE LIQUIDS TO START OR FRESHEN UP A FIRE.
Using a good firestarter can make lighting a fire much easier. There are several different types of firestarter
available in “chips” “nuggets” and gels. Newspaper also makes a good fire starter if it is torn into strips.
When building a fire, use plenty of fire starter on the bottom and use small kindling directly on top of that.
Use progressivly larger pieces as you stack wood all the way to the top of the firebox. When starting a fire
you should never use unsplit pieces of wood unless they are small, such as twigs and branches.
Once the wood is stacked in the firebox, you may light the fire starter and leave the door slightly cracked
open for a few minutes to aid in the start up of your stove. Once the fire is well lit, shut the door, but leave
the air control in the open position for about 20-30 minutes. After burning for about a half an hour in the
open position, you can start to regulate the heat output and burn rate by shutting the air control down.
Remember to let your stove burn open for 20-30 minutes each time you reload it with wood. Shutting the
air control prematurely can cause excessive creosote in the chimney. Use the following as a general
guideline for desired burn rates.
Low burn Draft handle pushed all the way in
Med-Low burn Draft handle pulled out approximately 1/8” – ¼”
Medium burn Draft handle pulled out approximately ¼” – ½”
Med-High burn Draft handle pulled out approximately ½” – 1”
High burn Draft handle pulled out all the way
Additional instructions and information.
1. Build your fires directly on the firebrick. Using a grate will allow too much air to the coal bed and
will result in incomplete combustion of the wood. Using a grate can also leave charred pieces of
wood after the fire has gone out.
2. Use only the best grade of dry wood available. Wood should be seasoned for 1 full year prior to
being used. Split wood will season much faster and better that wood left in the rounds. Burning
green or wet wood greatly increases the chance of creosote build up and produces significantly
less heat. The number 1 cause for creosote build up is moisture in the wood. Store your wood
in a dry location. Any wood stored near the stove needs to maintain proper clearance from the
stove.
15
3. Small hot fires produce less creosote than long, low smoldering fires. When you start your stove
or are re-kindling (reloading) your wood stove with a full or sizeable load of wood, open the draft
fully and burn the stove at full burn for 20-30 minutes to heat up the chimney and secondary burn
system. This ensures that when the draft control is pushed in for a lower, longer burn, the stove
will burn cleaner. You should notice more upper firebox flame activity. This is smoke from the
wood mixing with pre-heated air and burning. This is called secondary burn and results in higher
stove temperature at lower burn rates and less soot and creosote build-up. Just after starting the
fire, some smoke may occur until the chimney warms up to produce some draft. During normal
operation, adjust the draft to the position required. If properly set, it will assure longest burn times
and the most even heat cycle. Larger loads of wood will create the longest burn times.
Optional blower operation instructions
To install the blower, follow the instructions packaged with the blower. Plug the blower into the nearest
115V grounded circuit. Turn the variable speed knob to ‘click’ onto high speed. As the knob is turned
clock-wise, the blower speed decreases to your desired speed. The blower speed should match the desired
burn rate on your stove: i.e. low-burn rate...low blower speed; high-burn rate… high blower speed and so
forth. Note: For a blower on pedestal models with outside air through the wall you will need an outside
air blower adapter. See your dealer.
Ash Pan Operating Instructions:
Safety Precautions
1. Do not operate your wood stove with the ash pan open or removed.
2. Empty the ash pan when the fire is at its lowest point or out.
3. NEVER empty ashes into a combustible container (paper bag,
plastic bucket, etc.)
4. NEVER leave ashes in the house or garage. Ashes that seem to be
cool may not be.
5. Check gasket on ash pan periodically to ensure a good seal.
Operation
1. Wait until the fire is at its lowest point or out.
2. Remove the ash pan by turning the handle and pulling out.
3. Take the ash pan outside and dump the ashes into a metal container.
4. Before replacing the ash pan, check to see if any ashes need to be removed from the ash pan
plenum. If any significant amount of ashes remain in the ash plenum, it will prevent the ash
pan from sliding all the way in and it may not seal, resulting in air entering the ash grate which
will produce a runaway fire.
5. Replace the ash pan by inserting it back into the stove, pushing in on the handle while in the
horizontal position, and turning to the straight up and down position (spring pointed down).
16
Section 5– Maintenance
Use the table below as a general maintenance schedule for your stove. See below the table for detailed
information on performing the maintenance.
Ash disposal (pedestal model) Every 1-2 weeks
Chimney inspection and cleaning Every 2-3 months
Gasket replacement Every year or as needed
Glass cleaning and replacement As needed
Brick replacement Replace broken bricks as needed
Clean and inspect stove Every year
Replace ceramic insulation Every year or as needed
Ash disposal – Every 1-2 weeks
1. Empty the ash pan when the fire is out. Never try to empty the ash pan when the stove has an
active or full fire, doing so will over heat the stove.
2. Using gloves, remove the ash pan by turning the handle to one side or the other and pulling
straight out.
3. Dump the ashes into a non-combustible container away from the house. NEVER EMPTY
ASHES INTO A COMBUSTIBLE CONTAINER SUCH AS A PLASTIC BUCKET OR
PAPER BAG. NEVER LEAVE ASHES IN THE HOUSE OR GARAGE.
4. Before replacing the ash pan, check to see if any ashes need to be removed from the ash pan
plenum. If any ashes remain in the ash plenum it will prevent the ash pan from sliding all the way
in and it may not seal, resulting in air entering the ash grate which will produce a runaway fire.
5. Replace the ash pan by inserting it back into the stove, pushing in on the handle while in a
horizontal position, and turning the handle vertically (spring towards the bottom).
Chimney inspection and cleaning – Every 2-3 months
1. Refer to the chimney manufacturers installation instructions for additional information on cleaning
the chimney. We recommend having the chimney cleaned by a licensed, professional chimney
sweep.
2. When wood is burned, it releases tar and other organic vapors. When these vapors combine with
moisture, creosote is formed and enters the chimney. When the stove is burning on a low setting,
the exhaust can be moving slow and the chimney can be relatively cool. This combination of slow
exhaust and a cool chimney causes creosote to stick to the walls of the chimney. When creosote
accumulates, it causes the draft to slow and the problem of creosote accumulation will compound.
If the creosote is not removed on a regular basis, a chimney fire can occur which can damage the
chimney and/or stove. Therefore, the importance of regular chimney maintenance cannot be
emphasized enough.
Gasket Replacement – Every year or as needed
1. Gaskets need to be checked at least once a year. The gaskets on your stove are designed to keep
unwanted air out of the firebox. Neglecting these gaskets can cause a decrease in burn times,
more wood consumption, and possible over heating of the stove. When checking the gaskets, look
for wear areas that show fraying or cutting. Check the gasket for softness by pressing them with
your finger and give a slight tug on one area to see if the glue is still holding. Gaskets that are cut
or fraying can cause small air leaks in that spot. Gaskets that are hard will not conform to the
stove and may leak air. Gaskets that are not held in with glue could come out at an inconvenient
time. The gaskets that need to be checked are: Door gasket, ash pan gasket, and glass gasket.
Refer to section 8 for part numbers for the correct gasket for your stove and check with your
dealer for parts availability.
17
Glass cleaning and replacement – as needed
1. Never clean the glass when it is hot.
2. Clean the glass with an approved stove glass cleaner, never use an abbrasive material like
sandpaper or steel wool
3. Your stove is equipped with an airwash system that will self-clean the glass. If the glass is black
or covered with soot from slow burning, simply load the stove with good, dry, split wood and burn
at high burn for about 20- 30 minutes and the glass should burn clean.
4. Never build a fire against the glass.
5. When closing the door be sure that no pieces of wood are protruding from the door opening that
could touch the glass. Excessive stress like closing the door on a piece of wood will break the
glass. If the glass ever breaks in your stove, don’t panic, simply shut the air off and let the fire
burn out. Do not continue to operate a stove with broken glass. Do not leave the stove unattended
with broken glass.
6. To replace the glass it may be helpful to remove the door from the stove and place on a clean soft
work area. Remove the retaining ring screws and retaining ring, remove the glass and dispose of
properly, CAUTION: BROKEN GLASS WILL BE SHARP. Clean the door thoroughly where
the new piece of glass will install. Set the new piece of glass into the door and replace the
retaining ring and screws. Be careful to tighten the screws evenly, uneven pressure can break the
glass. Tighten the screws just enough to hold the glass firmly, overtightening can cause uneven
pressure and can break the glass.
Brick replacement – As needed
1. Bricks should be inspected and replaced if necessary at least once a year. Cracked bricks are fine
as long as they remain in place. Some of the bricks inside your stove are interchangeable, so
shuffling bricks around can be done, for example, a baffle brick that is broken and will not stay in
place can be swapped with a brick on the firebox bottom.
Clean and inspect stove – Every year
1. Your stove should be fully cleaned and inspected once a year. This is a great time to inspect the
bricks, gaskets, ceramic blanket and the rest of the stove for signs of abnormal wear. Start by
shoveling all the ashes out of the stove and emptying the ash pan. Use a shop vac to clean the
hard to reach places. Look at the inside of the stove for signs of wear, paying close attention to the
stainless steel baffle brick holders and burn tubes. Discoloration of the stainless steel is normal as
is slight sagging. If either of the brick holders is failing to keep the bricks in place then it should
be replaced.
Replace ceramic insulation – Every year or as needed.
1. At least once a year, check the ceramic insulation on top of the baffle in your stove. The ceramic
insulation is designed to keep heat in the stove and increase efficiency. As long as the insulation
is in place it can be left alone. If the insulation becomes torn during cleaning, simply lay it back
together tightly in that area. If the insulation tears to multiple pieces, it should be replaced,
smaller pieces can become caught in the draft and cause a restriction.
18
FIREBOX
ID# Description Part # ID# Description Part #
1 Ceramic blanket 1/2” x 20” x 20” KR-WCINSULATION 9 Baffle tube: Rear KR-WCBURNTUBE4
2 Brick: Standard size. 9” x 4-1/2” KR-BRICK 10 Baffle tube: Middle rear KR-WCBURNTUBE3
3 Brick: Cut size. 9” x 2-1/4” KR-WCBRICK1 11 Baffle tube: Middle front KR-WCBURNTUBE2
4 Rear baffle brick holder KR-WCTBRICKHOLDER 12 Baffle tube: Front KR-WCBURNTUBE1
5 Front baffle brick holder KR-WCZBRICKHOLDER 13 Door wedge assembly KR-WCDRWEDGE
6 Hardware. 1/4-20 x 1/2” bolt. Pack of
6 KR-HDWE1 14 Ash grate KR-ASHGRATE
7 Brick: Cut size. 8-5/8” x 4-1/2” KR-WCBRICK2 15 Control handle: 3/8” pewter KR-SPRING1PEWTER
8 Brick: Cut size. 9” x 3-7/8” with notch KR-WCBRICK3 15 Control handle: 3/8” gold KR-SPRING1GOLD
5
4
3
3
2
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
6
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
9
8
7
2
2
10
11
12
13
6
14
15
19
DOOR ASSEMBLY
ID# Description Part Number ID# Description Part Number
1 Door spring, pewter KR-SPRING2PEWTER 4 Door pin w/retainer (2ea.) KR-DOORPIN2
1 Door spring, gold KR-SPRING2GOLD 5 Door pin retainer (2 ea.) KR-DOORPINRETAIN
2 Door casting: Black KR-DOOR1CAST 6 Glass gasket KR-GLASSGASKET
2 Door casting: Pewter KR-DOOR1PEWTER 7 Glass (includes gasket) KR-GLASS1
2 Door casting: Gold KR-DOOR1GOLD 8 Glass retainer (includes screws) KR-GLASSRETAIN1
3 Door gasket kit KR-DOORGASKET 9 Glass retainer screw. Pack of 7 KR-GLASSSCREW
1
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
20
Section 6– Clearances and diagrams
Figure #1 Double Wall Pipe
Use this diagram for the following installations:
1. Mobile Home installation with the stove in a corner using double wall pipe.
2. Residential installation with the stove in a corner using double wall pipe. For single wall pipe,
refer to figure 2.
Hearth
ALL CLEARANCES SHOWN IN INCHES
ALL CLEARANCES ARE MINIMUMS
HEARTH CLEARANCES SHOWN IN
14.5
14.5
4
4
6
6
6
16

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