Leofric Building Systems Broadway User manual

B ROA DWAY
Instruction
Manual

ORDER OF CONSTRUCTION
SEE ENCLOSED SHEETS FOR INFORMATION
1. Mark base / Lay base seal and base angle
2. Construct walls ng doors and windows as you go
3. Fit end fascias
4. Fit wall plate
5. Fit internal truss to wall plate
6. Lay roof membrane to roof truss
7. Fit roof baen to roof truss / end fascias
8. Fit guer board to wall plate
9. Fit guer to guer board / down pipes to wall
10. Fit roof as per informaon sheet enclosed
11. Fit main door / aach door trim to inside of opening
12. Seal wall joints with silicone and stone
13. Lay llet to inside of garage
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Fixing Accessories
DESCRIPTION USED FOR PRODUCT
M8 x 140mm MUSHROOM
HEAD BOLT
Securing Wall / Wall Plates Bolt
and Corner Bolt
M8 HEX NUT Securing Wall Bolt / Wall Plates
Bolt and Corner Bolt
M8 WASHER Securing Wall Bolt / Wall Plates
Bolt and Corner Bolt
M8 TAPERED WASHER Securing Panels and Wall Plate
Together ( 2 Per Wall Bolt )
GALV TWIST NAIL To hold joist hanger
HEX. BOLT c/w HEX. NUT To hold Front Post to panel
T19 WOOD TEK To hold M1500 Bracket
T19 DRILL SCREW
POLY TOP ( RING SHANK )
NAILS
To t gutter board to wall plate
NAIL To t batten to truss
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DESCRIPTION USED FOR PRODUCT
GALV CLOUT NAIL Roof membrane to truss
CSK WOOD SCREW To x gutter bracket
MUSH HEAD BOLT Pipe clip bolt
M6 WASHER Pipe clip
M6 NUT Pipe clip
MOO89 GALV PIPE BRACKET Hang Pipe clip to wall
M1500 ( 90 DEGREE BRACKET ) Fit to inside corner wall plate
JOIST HANGERS Secure internal truss to wall plate
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Concrete Garage Base
Why do I need a concrete base? Can’t I use paving blocks or slabs, or just put it on tarmac?
e design of the concrete prefabricated building with panels bolted together requires a strong concrete ra
base. Any movement in the base may cause the garage to move.
e concrete base is the customer’s responsibility
e old saying, “a building is as good as its foundations”, is as true for your concrete sectional garage as it is
for any other type of building. e better the specication of the base, the more peace of mind you will have
in the future. If you skimp on the base, you may regret it later!
Concrete base design
Your concrete base needs to be designed properly to be strong enough not to crack or sink over the lifetime of
your garage. A typical concrete sectional garage will weigh between 3 and 4 tonnes.
Your garage base should be designed to suit the soil on your site. For instance, if the soil is clay, with the
likelihood of movement in the future, you will need to reinforce it, and probably make the ra thicker. If your
building is over 30 sq m, you will need to gain approval from your local control oce, who may need to or be
required to inspect and approve your concrete garage base plans.
Ensure that you have a CLEAR and LEVEL base on which to assemble the garage.
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You should thicken the edges of the base to a depth to suit the ground conditions. e thickness of the
concrete in the base will also depend on the soil conditions. e concrete mix design should be suitable for
a garage base – speak to your supplier and tell them what the concrete is intended for so they can provide
the correct mix. A minimum concrete thickness of 100mm (4”) is normally recommended, laid over at least
the same thickness of well compacted clean hardcore. e hardcore should be “blinded” with sand if you are
going to lay a damp proof membrane (dpm), normally 1200g polythene sheet. Steel reinforcement mesh will
further strengthen your base, your local agent or local builder will advise.
If you intend to store items in your garage once it has been built, we recommend the inclusion of a dpm.
Without the dpm there is no guarantee that damp will not spread into the building. Don’t forget that the base
will need time to “go o” or cure, before it is built on; allow at least a week, or more in winter.
e concrete base should be square. e garage is a rectangle, and needs to sit on a base about 75mm (3”)
larger all round. (In any doubt, seek advice and conrmation of the size of your building from either the
company or from your local agent.) When setting out your base, make sure that the shuttering is square. To
make sure your base is square, measure the diagonals AD and BC – they should be the same. If not, adjust
your shuttering until they are – your base will then be square.
e concrete base should be level. ere must be no slope from side to side, back to front or front to back.
If you build your concrete garage on an unlevel base, the panels may not t together properly, the roof wont
t it may be dicult to lay the necessary concrete llet, there could be a gap under the Up and Over door,
and the roof may not t properly. If the fall is to the rear, you may well get puddles forming at the back of the
garage.
e base must be higher than the surrounding area. It should stand out of the ground by at least 25mm (1”).
If not, water may stand on the base and leak under the panels.
If the ground slopes down to the base, you should ideally dig out a trench 150mm (6“) around the base,
backlling with gravel or pea shingle, aer retaining the existing ground. Don’t forget to take into account
surrounding ground levels when you position your personal door – if the ground is higher than the base, the
door will catch as you open it. Obvious when you think about it, bit late when you have built the garage! If
your concrete garage is at the bottom of a sloping drive, you need to put in a gully to take rainwater away to
a suitable drain. We can provide a timber weather bar to help prevent water getting under the Up and Over
door, but where there is a sloping driveway, a gully is essential.
So, your base should be designed to suit your local conditions. It should be strong enough, at, square and
level, higher than surrounding ground and 150mm (6”) larger than the building size (external dimension).
Finally, your concrete base should be positioned properly. Don’t forget that the Up and Over door can project
up to 1220mm (4) in front of the building when it is being opened, so position the base so that the door
doesn’t foul a wall or other building when you open it. A standard 1981mm (6’6”) Up and Over door projects
910mm (3).
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PLEASE LOOK UP! Trees, buildings etc can overhang, and branches and gutters can aect the positioning.
Just because it ts on the base, doesn’t mean it will t at eaves height!
Don’t position the building too close to other buildings or walls, as this can form a water trap – always specify
gutters on your garage to minimise the potential for water leaking into your garage. Allow for guttering on
your building if you order it – add in 150mm each side (apex) or 125mm to the length for guttering.
If you are using a local builder to carry out the base works for you, please give him this information before he
starts work.
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With a spirit level, check the level of the laid base and take the overall measurements to make sure that
the proposed building will sit level and t within the dimensions of the laid base. Where applicable take a
moisture level reading.
With a CHALK LINE mark out the external size of your garage ensuring that it is square, then APPLY black
bitumen tape to the base just inside the CHALK LINE, so you can still see the CHALK LINE when your
concrete panel is in position.
ONLY remove the top layer of tape on the lines that you are working on.
When the top layer of tape has been removed the 40mm x 40mm white PVC strip is tted to the inside of the
DPC tape, facing inwards and tted just past the inner face to the inside of the tape.
MARKING THE BASE
BASE SEAL
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g 4
Starting in the LEFT hand REAR CORNER assemble your corner using the HEEL AND TOE
method of assembling. Assemble 3 panels each way loosely, then using a SPIRIT LEVEL upright your
panel and tighten the bolts, ensuring that the tops are ush.
Once you have done this CONTINUE with the rest of your building keeping it fairly even until all of your
concrete is assembled. (see g 4) Place doors and windows where required with the header panels tted
above them.
PANEL CONSTRUCTION
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Where required, a window consists of the frame, one or two short panels and a lintel.
Attach the short panels to each other and to the adjacent standard panels. Stand the window on top of the
short panels, tting the external sill PVC strip to the underneath of the window at the same time, so that it is
square to the inside of the surrounding concrete panels.
Support the window until the lintel is secured on top of the window and to the adjoining panels.
Using the existing holes in the standard concrete panels and the top holes in the short panels, secure the
window in place using TEC screws.
NOTE
ere must be at least one standard panel
width between windows or
between a window and a personal door.
e window handle (if applicable) is
also tted at this stage.
WINDOWS
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Fort Knox Personal Access door
Butt the door frame in the required position against the standard panel. Secure to the steel frame with Mush
head bolts, nuts and tapered washers.
Place a lintel above the frame and x to the standard panel with hexagon head bolt 4” (100mm) long, nuts
and tapered washers.
Fix the next standard panel and secure to the frame and lintel as for the previous panel.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove and rex the weather strip from the steel frame to gain access for
the coach bolts.
It may be necessary to drill through the frame into the concrete to x the door to the surround.
IF NOT engaging correctly use the 3 sets
of 3 allen head bolts on the door hinge to
adjust the level until the locks fully engage.
DOORS
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Closure Set
Fit square bar through the hole in the door and locate
the handle / lock sets on the ends of the square bar.
Fix, the handle / lock sets with the screws provided and
check operation of the handles and lock.
Now that you have assembled your concrete panels you need to put your FRONT and REAR fascias up, so
that they are ush with the outside of the building. Once you have done this t WALL PLATES on, keeping
them ush with the inside of your panels and allowing an overhang on the outside of the building for the
fascia boards.
General
Timber xing battens are slotted into the
back of a fascia and can be slid along it’s
length to align with the metal support
brackets bolted to the walls and front
lintel of the building. Fixings through
each bracket into a batten are made with
5/8” number 8 CSK wood screw.
Where two or more pieces of fascia are
required to make up the necessary length,
an overlap will occur and it will be
necessary to neatly cut away the top with
a hacksaw.
FASCIAS
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Using a drill, drill through from the top of the standard panels through the wall plate. Mushroom head bolts
are then used to secure the wall plate from below the top of the standard panels with tapered washers and
nuts.
Once you have assembled your concrete panels suciently forward from the rear, x the rear gable to the top
of the rear end wall so that it is as ush as possible with the outside of the building.
e front gable can then be tted as above
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Wall Plate
Temporarily position a timber wall plate 3⅜” (85mm)
wide by 2” (50mm) deep on top of both ank walls. Each
wall plate should be extended the full length of the wall
and be trimmed inwards approx 1” (25mm) from each
end to allow for the end trusses. Note that each wall plate
may be supplied as two separate pieces which are butted
together on assembly.
Mark xing hole position in the timber through holes in
the tops of the panels at 2’ 8” (800mm) intervals.
Remove the wall plates and drill pilot holes ⁄” (4.5mm)
dia. into the timber approx. 1 ½” (40mm) deep.
Reposition the wall plate and x with coach screws 3”
(75mm) long and tapered washers.

Now attach your uPVC fascia boards to the sides of your building, making the two ends ush with your front
and rear gable fascias using POLY TOP (RING SHANK) NAILS. Keep an equal distance between xings and
keep the top of the fascia level with the top of the wall plate when xing.
If the fascia boards are in more than one piece, they will be clearly marked either Aor Bshowing which go
together, and the joining strip will already have been xed in place.
e roof trusses are tted in position, as per the issued drawing, either directly to the wall plate (STEEL) or
via truss hangers (WOOD). Once all of the trusses have been tted in place, one purlin is xed from each
gable end and attached to every truss aer it has been checked for being level and upright.
Each purlin is then attached, aer being cut if necessary, to the front and rear gable via ROUND HEAD
NAILS and attached to each truss, securing them in the correct position with NAILS.
e temporary “rst” purlin can be secured correctly in the right position if required.
SIDE FASCIA
ROOF TRUSS
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Now you can attach your guttering. Fit the end cap and down pipe ttings so that they are level with the end
of the front and rear gable fascias
Corner Pieces
Where two fascias meet at a corner, t the corner trim. Drill two 1/8” diameter holes through the bottom
edge of the trim and the fascia and secure with two 1/2” No. 8 self tapped screws. e galvanized corner
capping will be tted aer the ashings have been secured. Remove the bottom bolt of the corner panel in
line with the downpipe, position and ret it with a M0089 90 degree angle bracket as shown in the diagram.
(g 2)
e circular clip on the downpipe can then be secured to the free end of the M0089 angle bracket securing
the downpipe in place. e downpipe may need to be cut to t depending on the base.
Fixing gutter brackets to wall plate
Using a string line mark positions for the gutter brackets on the outside edge of the wall plate. A fall is
necessary for the gutter and depends on whether it is required at the front or the rear of the building.
A fall should be taken from 1” down to 2” and marked with the chalk line. Fix a gutter bracket 1” (300mm)
in from each end of the wall plate with a wood screw, at the top of the bracket making sure the remaining
brackets are spaced evenly between there end brackets, but NOT more than 900mm apart.
GUTTER
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Chalk Line
Fig 2

Decide at which rear corner the downpipe is to be tted as the guttering, when nally secured, should be
given a slight fall to the downpipe position.
Lay out the gutter components on the fascia in their correct order and using a string line to determine
the fall available, position the front gutter brackets accordingly, securing each with two 5/8” No. 8
screws at not more than 3” centres to a batten.
Bolt the complete fascia assembly to the rear wall and clip the length of guttering into the brackets,
cutting to correct length where necessary with a ne tooth hacksaw. Where it has been necessary to cut a
gutter to length, notches must be made at the ends to accommodate the gutter joint straps.
GUTTER
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Intermediate Trusses
Lower intermediate trusses into truss hangers and x in
position with square twisted nails 1 ½ (40mm) long.
Truss Hangers
Place truss hangers evenly along the wall plates at a
maximum distance of 3’4” (1m) apart.
Ensure hangers on opposite walls are in line with each
other so the intermediate trusses will be square to the
walls.
Fix truss hangers by nailing square twisted nails 1 ½”
(40mm) long into the tops of the wall plates. e inside
face of each truss hanger must be ush with the inside
face of the wall plate.
Fix your internal ROOF
TRUSSES in position into TRUSS
HANGER xed with TWIST NAILS
at 4 INTERVALS then once you have
done this prop them up so they are
upright and attach your
TIMBER PURLINS to the roof.
INTERNAL TRUSS
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Please review the Installers Guide for panels on how to t the steel roof.
ROOF
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Silicone External Finish
Ensure joints are clear then seal the external joint between panels by applying mastic with the gun provided.
Cut the nozzle of the cartridge so that a bead of approximately 1/4” (6mm) is delivered. Aer applying to the
outside of all joints press the nishing spar granules into the surface of the mastic on every joint, covering the
panel joints.
FIT your garage door as per the instructions attached to the door. Once you have done this silicone all
internal joints with clear silicone.
JOINTS
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