Magnuson Superchargers Magnum DI User manual

Magnuson Superchargers
1990 Knoll Drive, Bldg A, Ventura, CA. 93003
[phone]
magnusonsuperchargers.com
ATTENTION!
Your MAGNUSON SUPERCHARGER kit
is sensitive to corrosion!
Use only the vehicle manufacturer
recommended coolant for your engine in
the intercooler system as well.
89-89-60-052 Rev F
* PREMIUM GASOLINE FUEL REQUIRED *
* PREMIUM GASOLINE FUEL REQUIRED *
Step-by-step instructions for installing the best in
supercharger systems.
Installation Instructions for:
2016-2020 LT1 Chevrolet Camaro
Magnum DI Supercharger System

INSTALLATION MANUAL
Magnuson Superchargers Magnum DI
GM 6.2L Engine
2016-2019 LT1 Chevrolet Camaro
Please take a few moments to review this manual thoroughly before you begin work. Make a quick parts
check to be certain your kit is complete (see shipper parts list in this package). If you discover shipping
damage or shortage, please call our office immediately. Take a look at exactly what you are going to
need in terms of tools, time, and experience. Review our limited warranty with care. When unpacking the
supercharger kit DO NOT lift the supercharger assembly by the black plastic bypass actuator. This is pre-
set from the factory and can be altered if used as a lifting point!
Use only premium gasoline fuel, 91 octane or better.
Use only premium gasoline fuel, 91 octane or better.
The use of non-premium fuel can cause engine failure
The use of non-premium fuel can cause engine failure
and will void your warranty.
and will void your warranty.
Magnuson Products recommend that you run a minimum of one tank of premium 91 octane or better fuel
through your vehicle prior to installation of the system to prevent any possible damage that may occur due
to running the supercharged engine on lower octane fuel.
DO NOT RUN E85 FUEL WITH THE SUPERCHARGER.
DO NOT RUN E85 FUEL WITH THE SUPERCHARGER.
DO NOT USE OCTANE BOOSTERS.
DO NOT USE OCTANE BOOSTERS.
If you have used octane boosters in the past you will have to replace
If you have used octane boosters in the past you will have to replace
your spark plugs and the O2 sensors.
your spark plugs and the O2 sensors.
Our Magnuson Superchargers kits are designed for engines in good mechanical condition only. Installation
on high mileage or damaged engines is not recommended and may result in engine failure, for which we
are not responsible. Magnuson Superchargers is not responsible for the engine or consequential damages.
Magnuson Superchargers kits are designed for use on stock vehicles. To that end, the alteration or
Magnuson Superchargers kits are designed for use on stock vehicles. To that end, the alteration or
modification of the fuel system, drive train, engine, and/or supercharger outside of stock parameters in any
modification of the fuel system, drive train, engine, and/or supercharger outside of stock parameters in any
way can result in engine damage or failure for which Magnuson Superchargers is NOT responsible and will
way can result in engine damage or failure for which Magnuson Superchargers is NOT responsible and will
void Magnuson Superchargers warranty and CARB certification. Aftermarket engine recalibration devices
void Magnuson Superchargers warranty and CARB certification. Aftermarket engine recalibration devices
that modify fuel and spark curve (including, but not limited to programmers) are not recommended and may
that modify fuel and spark curve (including, but not limited to programmers) are not recommended and may
cause engine damage or failure. Use of non-Magnuson Superchargers approved programming will void all
cause engine damage or failure. Use of non-Magnuson Superchargers approved programming will void all
warranties. If you have any questions, call us.
warranties. If you have any questions, call us.
A new GM fuel filter is recommended at the time of supercharger installation
Stock spark plugs and stock plug gap are recommended
Contact information:
Magnuson Superchargers
1990 Knoll Drive, Bldg A
Ventura, CA 93003
Sales/Tech support 805-642-8833
Website:
www.magnusonsuperchargers.com
Email:
[email protected]

Table of Contents
Section 1: Tuning Your Vehicle Computer and Initial Steps 4
Section 2: Front Fascia Removal 6
Section 3: Coolant Drainage, and Airbox Removal 11
Section 4: Electrical and Hose Line Disconnect 14
Section 5: Fuel Line and Manifold Removal 18
Section 6: PCV Re-routing, Belt and Fan Removal 23
Section 7: Crank Pulley Replacement, and Idler Installation 30
Section 8: Coil Pack Removal, and Stud Installation 36
Section 9: Supercharger Preparation and Installation 40
Section 10: LTR Installation, and Horn Relocation 45
Section 11: Intercooler Pump Plumbing, and Electrical Connection 54
Section 12: CAC Installation 65
Section 13: Final Assembly and Testing 72
NOTE: This instruction manual follows the process we used to complete this installation on our test vehicle.
This does not imply there aren’t alternate approaches.
Tools Required:
Metric wrench set
¼” - 3/8” and ½” drive metric socket set with 22mm and 24mm(Standard & Deep)
3/8”and ½” drive Foot pound and inch pound torque wrenches
1/2” breaker
Metric Allen socket set with 3/8” drive
Phillips, flat and Torx head screwdrivers
Fuel line quick disconnect tool (included in kit)
Small or angled 3/8” drill motor
1/2” Impact wrench
Drain pan and funnel
Hose cutters and hose clamp pliers
Safety glasses
Shop vacuum cleaner
Pry tool and nut driver
Rotary Cutter or Hacksaw
Bandsaw
Loctite 242

NOTE TO CUSTOMERS WITH MODIFIED VEHICLES:
NOTE TO CUSTOMERS WITH MODIFIED VEHICLES:
The Magnuson calibration included with this kit is intended to work
The Magnuson calibration included with this kit is intended to work
on stock vehicle configurations, including stock trim levels and stock
on stock vehicle configurations, including stock trim levels and stock
OEM vehicle options. Modifications to your stock vehicle including,
OEM vehicle options. Modifications to your stock vehicle including,
but not limited to, engine, flywheel, clutch, torque converter,
but not limited to, engine, flywheel, clutch, torque converter,
transmission, wheels, tires, axles, gears, driveshafts, induction
transmission, wheels, tires, axles, gears, driveshafts, induction
system, exhaust system and additional weight (ie. bumpers, racks,
system, exhaust system and additional weight (ie. bumpers, racks,
etc.) can have a significant impact on your vehicle’s calibration and
etc.) can have a significant impact on your vehicle’s calibration and
may require modifications to our calibration as supplied.
may require modifications to our calibration as supplied.
While we attempt to minimize the need for modifications during our
While we attempt to minimize the need for modifications during our
development process, it is impossible for our team to account for all
development process, it is impossible for our team to account for all
possible build variations/combinations, and in some cases it may be
possible build variations/combinations, and in some cases it may be
necessary for you to supply an additional element of customization
necessary for you to supply an additional element of customization
for your vehicle—custom calibration—and to work, at your own
for your vehicle—custom calibration—and to work, at your own
direction and expense, with a local service facility to address your
direction and expense, with a local service facility to address your
unique combination of hardware and make calibration adjustments as
unique combination of hardware and make calibration adjustments as
necessary.
necessary.
Please be aware that standard product warranties and
Please be aware that standard product warranties and
governmental emissions certifications are predicated on stock
governmental emissions certifications are predicated on stock
vehicle configurations, and vehicle modifications and calibration
vehicle configurations, and vehicle modifications and calibration
changes may affect or even void powertrain warranty and emissions
changes may affect or even void powertrain warranty and emissions
certification status (such as CARB emissions certification). It is
certification status (such as CARB emissions certification). It is
the sole responsibility of the customer making a warranty claim to
the sole responsibility of the customer making a warranty claim to
prove that any vehicle modifications and calibration changes were
prove that any vehicle modifications and calibration changes were
within warranty. It also is the sole responsibility of the customer to
within warranty. It also is the sole responsibility of the customer to
determine if the modifications and changes comply with all local,
determine if the modifications and changes comply with all local,
state and federal emissions standards.
state and federal emissions standards.

* PLEASE PAY ATTENTION TO THE STEPS IN THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
* PLEASE PAY ATTENTION TO THE STEPS IN THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
ENGINE DAMAGE CAN OCCUR IF YOU DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. *
ENGINE DAMAGE CAN OCCUR IF YOU DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. *
NOTE: For the purpose of these instructions all references to left or right side are assumed to be as
NOTE: For the purpose of these instructions all references to left or right side are assumed to be as
indicated from the seated position in the driver seat of the vehicle.
indicated from the seated position in the driver seat of the vehicle.
1.
If your kit has a provided handheld tuner
If your kit has a provided handheld tuner
follow the instructions in the provided
follow the instructions in the provided
pamphlet to install your tune.
pamphlet to install your tune.
Your handheld
Your handheld
tuner may not match the one shown.
tuner may not match the one shown.
2. Your Intercooler system is sensitive to
corrosion. It’s very important to use the
OEM recommended coolant mixture in your
supercharger system as well.
Section 1: Tuning Your Vehicle
Computer and Initial Steps
3. Your system requires the use of minimum
91 Octane gasoline fuel. This system is
not
not
compatible with E85 fuel.
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4. Open the trunk and look to your right. Grab
the handle shown with the arrow, and pull the
panel cover off. Behind this you will find the
battery.
5. Loosen the nut shown with an arrow to
disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Cap or cover the terminal to protect against
accidental contact with the battery post.
6. Place a rag over the latch area so the trunk
does not accidently get locked.
7. Follow the instructions in your owner’s manual
for vehicle lifting, and front wheel removal.
Only the front wheels will need to be removed.
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8. Remove the 5 bolts holding the air deflectors
in place on each side with a 7mm socket.
The deflectors are located in front of the front
wheels on both sides. This photo was taken
from below the vehicle. The bolt locations
for the right side are shown with arrows in
this image. Repeat on the left side. Keep the
hardware organized and labeled. There will be
many different sizes and types in the next few
steps.
9. This photo is from the underside of the vehicle
as viewed from the front. This center cover
will be removed by taking out the following
fasteners. Use a 7mm wrench to remove the
8 bolts shown with red arrows. Use a 10 mm
wrench to remove the 6 bolts shown with
yellow arrows. Remove the plastic rivet at the
green arrow location. To remove the rivet pull
the center part out first followed by the outer
section. Once the rivet has been removed the
center cover will be loose.
10.At this point the center cover can be removed
from the underside of the vehicle.
11.Use a T15 Torx bit to remove the fasteners at
the 5 yellow arrow locations. Also there is one
plastic rivet at the red arrow location that must
be removed. Once all these fasteners have
been removed you can remove the panel that
they were securing.
Section 2: Front Fascia Removal
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12.Use a 7mm wrench to remove the two
fasteners shown with yellow arrows.
13.Remove the three push rivets from the
locations shown with yellow arrows. Use a
T15 Torx wrench to remove the 7 bolts shown
with red arrows.
14.Pull in on the sides of the wheel well liner and
push the center area down to clear the two
metal tabs on the fender lip. Be careful not to
tear the liner as you remove it. Once you have
cleared the two tabs on the fender lip you
should be able to pull the wheel well liner out.
Repeat the last three steps to remove the left
side wheel well liner.
15.Use a T15 bit to remove the 6 bolts shown
with yellow arrows. Remove the two push
rivets in the two red arrow locations.
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16.Remove the plastic trim from both sides by
gently pulling straight up.
17.Use a 7mm socket to remove the three bolts
in each fender well shown with yellow arrows.
18.Remove the plastic bracket from the last step
by pushing it slightly forward and pulling down
then disengage the hook that is shown with
an arrow.
19.Use a 7mm wrench to remove the 4 bolts
around the back of the headlight that are
shown here with arrows.
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20.Disconnect the electrical plug shown with an
arrow that is located in the right fender well.
21.Remove the retaining clip shown at the arrow
location with a small pry bar.
22.Apply painters tape to the fender, and fascia,
near the seam on both sides as shown in the
photo. This will help to protect your paint while
you remove the front fascia.
23.Have someone help you with the removal
of the front fascia. Pull gently around the
interface between the fender and the fascia
to release the connections holding it in place.
Then pull the fascia forward.
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24.Use a 10 mm wrench to remove the 4 bolts
shown with yellow arrows.
Do Not
Do Not
remove the two bolts shown with red
remove the two bolts shown with red
arrows. The two bolts with red arrows are for
arrows. The two bolts with red arrows are for
adjustment purposes.
adjustment purposes.
25.Remove the panel covering the latch
mechanism that is shown.
26.Use a pencil to mark around the flange of
the two bolt heads securing the hood latch
assembly. After marking the bolt locations
use a 15 mm wrench to remove the two bolts
shown with arrows.
27.Remove the electrical connection that
connects to the hood latch. It is held in place
by a clip and is located under the cross
support behind the location for the hood latch.
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28.Pull the white release clip and unplug the
connection shown.
29.Use pliers to compress the plastic fitting
holding the cable housing to the latch bracket.
This will allow you to push the housing away
from the bracket.
30.Use needle nose pliers to grab the ball end of
the actuator cable for the hood latch. Pull the
ball out of it socket to remove the cable from
the latch assembly.
31.Remove the radiator reservoir cap to help the
fluid to drain faster in the next step.
Make sure your vehicle has cooled down before
Make sure your vehicle has cooled down before
proceeding.
proceeding.
Section 3: Coolant Drainage, and
Airbox Removal
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32.Place a clean drain pan under the radiator
drain spigot located on the front right side of
the vehicle. Loosen the valve shown with an
arrow until the fluid begins to drain. Once the
fluid has drained completely close the drain
valve, and re-install the radiator reservoir cap.
This will take about 15-20 minutes.
33.Remove the hose that is being held in this
photo by first disconnecting it from the
clip shown with a green arrow, and then
disconnecting the two ends shown with yellow
arrows.
34.Disconnect the air hose going to the air inlet
duct located at the front of the engine.
35.Use an 8mm nut driver to remove the two
hose clamps from the air inlet duct and
remove the duct.
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36.Unplug the connection from the MAF sensor
by first pulling back on the red release lock
located on the underside of the connector.
37.Open the plastic hose clamp attached to the
airbox shown with the arrow.
38.Pull up at the area of the airbox shown with an
arrow. This will release the airbox so you can
pull it up and out of the engine bay.
39.If any of the rubber connectors remain on the
airbox they should be removed and installed
into their original location on the fender well
shown here with arrows.
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40.Disconnect the clamp holding the air hose to
the air conditioning line.
41. Disconnect the air hose at the location shown
by first squeezing the two sides shown with
arrows and then pulling it apart.
42.Remove the two bolts that hold the resonator
bracket in place using a T50 torx driver.
43.Remove the resonator assembly shown.
Section 4: Electrical and Hose
Line Disconnect
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44.Install the provided plug into resonator hose
connection shown.
45.Rotate the resonator hose behind the brace.
46.Open the two retainer clamps shown with the
yellow arrows.
47.Pull up at the side closer to the middle of
the engine on the “Camaro” beauty covers
(shown with arrows) to remove them.
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49.Clip the connections holding the coil wiring
harness to the center cover. There are 4 of
these cable ties on each side.
50.Use a 10 mm deep-well socket to remove
the four mounting studs shown with arrows.
Remove the bracket from the engine. These
are also the locations where the “Camaro”
beauty covers were attached. Now remove
the manifold cover.
51.Remove the EVAP line that is being held in
this photo at the arrow locations.
48.Unplug the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
connection shown.
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52.Release the white locking tap by pulling it out
and then unplug the electrical connection to
the EVAP solenoid.
53.Release the white locking tap by pulling it out
and then unplug the electronic throttle control
connection.
54.Disconnect the PCV connection shown with
an arrow. There is a white release button that
must be pressed first prior to removal. Many
of the future hoses that need to be removed
will have this same release button.
55.Press the release buttons on the hose
connections and disconnect them from the
two locations on the oil separator shown with
arrows.
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56.Use a T30 Torx driver to remove the two
bolts shown with yellow arrows. Remove the
oil filler cap shown with a red arrow.
Ensure
Ensure
that nothing gets down inside the oil filler
that nothing gets down inside the oil filler
tube while the cap is removed
tube while the cap is removed
.
. Now slide the
coil pack cover out of the way and unplug
the hose shown with the green arrow. Then
remove the left side coil pack cover.
57.
After you have removed the cover make sure
After you have removed the cover make sure
to re-install the oil filler cap
to re-install the oil filler cap
.
.
58.Use a T30 Torx driver to remove the two bolts
holding the right side coil cover. Once you
have the coil cover loose you will be able to
access the connection for the hose line shown
with an arrow. Remove this hose.
59.Open the gas filler cover, and open the valve
flap internally with a clean finger to relieve the
fuel system pressure.
Section 5: Fuel Line and Manifold
Removal
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60.Place rags around the fuel line shown at the
left side of the engine. Remove the metal
locking clip from the fuel line.
61.
61.
Eye protection is necessary for the next few
Eye protection is necessary for the next few
steps involving fuel
steps involving fuel
.
. Use the provided plastic
release tool to slide on the underside of
the hose connection (shown with an arrow)
and press up on it while you push down on
the hose. This will release the connection.
Be careful while releasing the connection
because fuel will be released. Properly
dispose of any fuel soaked rags after fuel line
is removed.
62.Place a cap on the fuel inlet line shown with a
red arrow, and a plug on the hose (shown with
a yellow arrow) once the fuel line has been
disconnected.
63.Follow the same procedure to remove the fuel
line connection on the opposite side of the
hose you just disconnected. Cap the line once
it has been disconnected.
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