Maxford USA SPAD XIII User manual

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IN NS ST TR RU UC CT TI IO ON N M MA AN NU UA AL L
The SPAD XIII was a World War I French fighter developed by the Société Pour L'Aviation et ses Dérivés
(SPAD). Derived mainly from the earlier highly successful SPAD S.VII, its larger wings and rudder, more
powerful engine, and twin Vickers machine guns made it superior to its predecessors and one of the most capable
fighters of the war. The SPAD XIII was first flown on April 4, 1917; in May 1917 it was already being delivered
to the French Air Service.
Faster than its contemporaries, the British Sopwith Camel and the German Fokker D.VII, the SPAD XIII was
one of the most-produced fighters of WWI, with at least 8,472 built before the Armistice, barely a year and a half
later on November 11, 1918.
Famous French pilots such as Georges Guynemer and Rene Fonck initially flew the SPAD XIII. Then, follow-
ing the death of Quentin Roosevelt in a Nieuport 28, the Americans and other Allied forces also switched over to
fly the SPAD XIII. Among the Allied aces who flew the SPAD XIII were Eddie Rickenbacker (America's
leading ace with 26 victories – whose aircraft is on display at the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force near
Dayton, Ohio) and American ace Frank Luke (who had 18 confirmed victories, was the first airman to receive
the Medal of Honor, and in whose honor Luke Air Force Base is named). Francesco Baracca, Italy's top World
War I ace with 34 aerial victories was another high-scoring Allied pilot who flew a SPAD XIII.
This project to model the SPAD XIII was started in late 2009. We based our version on pilot Jacques Raphaël
Roques' SPAD XIII of the WWI French Air Service, SPA48, Aircraft Serial Number S1893.
This ARF is designed for a gas, glow, or electric power. Adjustable engine and motor mounting boxes are
included, and the model is close in scale to the actual SPAD XIII (though some necessary changes were made to
meet the needs and expectations of RC pilots as well as the requirements of factory-production).
We invite you to enjoy the pride of ownership and the joy of flying
this beautiful model of the famous SPAD XIII.
Shown with optional detail upgrade package
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Captain Eddie Rickenbacker
Jacques Raphaël Roques
Jacques Raphaël Roques
Shown with optional scale machine guns, engine and wooden propeller
Shown with optional scale machine guns, engine and wooden propeller

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I. Safety Precautions & Assembly Tips .............. 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
II. Warranty, Liability Waiver & Return Policy .. 3
III. Specifications .................................................. 4
IV. Special features ................................................ 4
V. Parts List .............................................. 5
VI. Assembly Instructions .......................... 6
VII. Setup & Adjustments ......................... 16
VIII. Preflight Checks ................................. 16
1. This product should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions much like a full-scale airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, this product, if
not assembled and operated correctly, could cause injury to you or spectators and damage to
property. Maxford USA provides you with a high-quality, thoroughly tested model airplane kit with
assembly instructions. However, the quality and capabilities of your finished model airplane depend
on how you assemble it, and your safety depends on how you use and fly it. Any testing or flying of
this model airplane is done entirely at your own risk.
I. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS & ASSEMBLY TIPS:
(IMPORTANT – READ THIS SECTION BEFORE YOU BEGIN ASSEMBLY)
2. Assemble this model airplane according to these instructions. Do not alter or modify the model
beyond the assembly and power system options covered in these instructions, as doing so may
result in an unsafe or unworkable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the
photos; in those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct. If you have any
question or concern about these instructions, before you proceed with assembly of this product,
contact your dealer, or speak to a Maxford USA customer service representative at 562-529-3988
(Monday through Friday, except national holidays, 9 AM to 5 PM Pacific time).
3. While this kit has been flight-tested to meet or exceed our rigid performance and reliability
standards in normal use, if you elect to perform any extremely high-stress flying, such as racing or
advanced aerobatics, or if you install a larger power system than specified, you (the buyer or user of
this product) are solely responsible for taking any and all necessary steps to reinforce the high-
stress points and/or substitute hardware that is more suitable for such increased stresses.
4. Throughout the lifetime of this model, use only the Maxford USA-recommended or same-sized
engine or motor and a new or well-maintained radio control system and batteries recommended by
the maker of your engine or motor and radio system.
5. It is your responsibility to install the R/C system and other components in such a way that this
model airplane passes all applicable safety/range tests and that the power system and controls
operate correctly and smoothly.
6. Recheck the operation of this model airplane before every flight to ensure that all equipment is still
operating correctly and that the model has remained structurally sound. Also before every flight,
check all electrical and/or structural connections; do not fly without replacing any that you find
damaged or worn.
7. Before you begin assembly of this model airplane, read all instructions and test-fit each part to
ensure you fully understand the instructions and that no parts are missing, damaged or unsatisfac-
tory. (Note: Temperature and/or humidity differences and changes between the factory, our
warehouse and your home workshop may indicate the need for slight adjustment to the wing saddle
and/or the horizontal stabilizer’s mounting platform to ensure the wing is parallel to the horizontal
stabilizer; however, we recommend you contact us before you attempt any such adjustments.)
8. If you are not an experienced R/C pilot or have not flown this type of model
before, we strongly urge you to get assistance from an experienced R/C pilot.
9. To help ensure the security of the servo connections, we recommend you
install optional Maxford USA servo extension safety clips wherever servo-
leads are connected to any servo extender or Y-cable.
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10. After you have determined each servo-mounting-screw location, apply thin CA adhesive to
harden the wood where the servo’s mounting screws will be inserted.
11. Use the tip of a hot soldering iron to burn and remove any Mylar covering material that may
prevent you from obtaining good wood-to-wood gluing surfaces (such as at the bottom of the
horizontal stabilizer, between it and its mounting platform at the end of the fuselage).
12. Use 30-minute epoxy to permanently attach critical parts (such as where the horizontal stabilizer
is attached the to its mounting platform at the end of the fuselage).
13. If you have concern about the security of any factory fabrication procedure(s), we recommend
you apply 30-minute epoxy around the perimeter of such part(s) as an extra safety precaution.
14. A length of string may be supplied by the factory to pull your servo’s lead, servo extension, or
Y-cable through the airframe to your radio receiver; however, you might find it easier to use a
little masking tape to temporarily attach the connector to the end of a length of coat hanger wire,
then use the coat hanger wire to PUSH the lead and its connector through the airframe.
15. After you have adjusted each clevis into its position and secured it on its pushrod with the
supplied jam nut, we recommend you then also apply a drop or two of thin CA adhesive to make
this adjustment permanent. Also apply a thread-lock compound to secure your engine or motor
mounting hardware from vibration.
16. To use a crimp tube to attach one end of a pull-
pull cable to a brass rod and clevis …
a) Slide the crimp-tube onto the end of the cable.
b) Pass the end of the cable through the small
hole in the end of the brass rod.
c) Bring the end of the cable back into and all the
way through the crimp tube.
d) Loop the end of the cable back into the crimp tube, but this time leave the end of the cable
inside the crimp tube. (Using pliers, slide the cable inside the crimp tube to adjust the loops.)
e) Use your pliers to firmly squeeze several places along the length of the crimp tube to securely
crimp the tube onto the cable.
f)Snug the lock nut against the clevis to anchor the clevis to the brass rod.
g) Apply thin CA adhesive to permanently anchor both brass rods into their clevises.
17. This model includes some fiberglass and/or carbon-fiber reinforced parts. If you drill, grind or
sand a fiberglass or carbon-fiber reinforced part, never blow into the part to remove fiberglass or
carbon fiber dust (the dust may blow back into your face), and always wear safety goggles, a
particle mask and rubber gloves to guard yourself from eye, skin and respiratory-tract irritation.
18. Check the Mylar covering material’s joints and surfaces; if necessary, carefully use a dedicated
covering-material iron (do NOT set the iron’s temperature too high) to secure the edges and to
tighten any loosened areas. Recheck and retighten from time to time.
Maxford USA guarantees this kit to be free from defects in material and workmanship at the time of
purchase. All our products have been inspected in our factory and are checked again when shipped
from our warehouse. However, Maxford USA cannot directly control the materials you may use nor
your final assembly process. Therefore
II. WARRANTY, LIABILITY WAIVER & RETURN POLICY:
If you do not fully accept the above liability and waiver, you may request a return-merchandise
authorization number (RMA#) as explained in item 2 on the following page.
, Maxford USA can NOT in any way guarantee the
performance of your finished model airplane. Furthermore, in purchasing this product, you (the
buyer or user of this product) exempt, waive, and relieve Maxford USA from all current or future
liability for any personal injury, property damage, or wrongful death, and if you (the buyer or user
of this product) are involved in any claim or suit, you will not sue Maxford USA or any of its
representatives.
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If you think there is a missing, damaged or unsatisfactory part, please read our after-sales service
and return policy, below.
1. Inspect your order upon delivery for any missing, damaged or unsatisfactory part(s). If you
believe there is a problem, you must call us at 562-529-3988 (Monday through Friday except
holidays, between the hours of 9 AM and 5 PM Pacific time) before you begin assembly and
within 10 days from receipt of your purchase. During this telephone conversation, and with your
support, we will determine how to resolve your concern.
2. To request a return-merchandise authorization number (RMA#), call 562-529-3988 (Monday
through Friday except holidays, between the hours of 9 AM to 5 PM Pacific time). If we elect to
issue you an RMA#, you must clearly mark this RMA# on the outside of the package. (No return
or exchange will be authorized after 10 days from the date of your receipt of the product; any
package delivered to us without a Maxford USA RMA# is subject to being returned to the
sender, as received, with return postage payable upon delivery.) Returned merchandise must be
in its original condition as received from Maxford USA, with no assembly or modification, in the
product’s original packing materials, complete with all manuals and accessories. Return shipping
and insurance charges must be prepaid by you, the buyer.
3. Returned merchandise that is accepted by Maxford USA for credit is subject to a 10% to 20%
restocking fee (the final amount will be determined by Maxford USA upon receipt and
examination of the returned merchandise).
Return Address:
Maxford USA RC Model Distribution, Inc.
15939 Illinois Avenue, #C
Paramount, CA 90723
IMPORTANT: Print the RMA# issued by Maxford USA near the above address.
Wingspan ........................................................................................................................... 68-inches
III. SPECIFICATIONS:
Wing Area .......................................................... 885 sq. inches (combined, top and bottom wings)
Length .............................................................. 53-inches (includes prop on recommended engine)
ARF weight ...................................................................................................................... 10 pounds
Flying weight (complete with CRRC 26CC gas engine, batteries and radio system) ...... 13 pounds
Power System (not included) ......................... Gas – 26CC, Glow – 90-120, or Equivalent Electric
(plus batteries and switches corresponding to your Power and Radio Systems’ needs)
Propeller (not included) ................................................................................. 16 to 18 inch diameter
(as recommended by your power system’s manufacturer)
Radio system (not included) .................................. Minimum of 4 channels with 5 standard servos
(Hitec HS311 or equivalent, x5)
(Dimensions and weights are approximate.)
•Realistic looking pre-trimmed windshield and pre-
painted scale-looking fiberglass cowl with wooden
louvers.
IV. SPECIAL FEATURES OF THIS ARF SPAD XIII:
•The wings are easily removable in left and right pairs
for transport, storage, and in-field setup.
•Wing wires are included. (Since the wing wires are
not functional, wing wire installation is optional.)
*
*
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•True-to-scale twin exhaust pipes. (An optional upgrade
kit allows both exhaust pipes to be connected to a gas-
engine’s muffler.)
•The fuselage, wings and empennage are jig-
assembled, laser-cut balsa and light plywood,
finished with Mylar covering material; the rudder is
operated by pull-pull cables; a steerable tailwheel is
included.
•Includes a plywood box to securely mount and adjust
for the depth of most power systems, plus an
additional motor box for an electric power setup.
•The cockpit hatch is secured by a magnetic anchor.
•Includes scale markings for WWI French pilot
Jacques Raphaël Roques' SPAD XIII aircraft serial number S1893.
•Precut mounting slots inside the cockpit for radio and ignition power switches.
•Scale-looking landing gear and wheels.
•Available optional scale Vickers machine guns and matching 1/5-scale WWI pilot figure.
1. Items you must supply
V. PARTS LIST:
•Epoxy and cyanoacrylate (CA) adhesives, Micro Balloons or equivelant filler, masking tape, a
high-speed rotary tool, a soldering iron or wood burning tool and common hand tools (such as
screwdrivers, long-nosed and cutting pliers, etc.).
•Five(5) servos (see ‘Specifications’ on page 4), two 18-inch extender cables, one 12-inch
Y cable, and a four-channel (or more) radio control system.
•Gas, glow or electric power system and 16 to 18 inch diameter propeller.
•Any batteries and switches required for your ignition, electric power and/or radio system.
•Options: 1/5-scale Vickers machine guns; WWI pilot figure; and an exhaust manifold system for
connecting your gas engine’s muffler to the supplied twin exhaust pipes.
2. Included items
•
•
Rudder cables, aileron, elevator and throttle pushrods and all
related linkages; precut rudder, elevator and throttle servo
mounting trays.
•
Precut hinge slots; CA hinges, control horns, clevises and
pushrods, and all required hardware (except those items
normally supplied with servos, an engine or a motor).
•
Pre-trimmed, ready-to-install windshield, pre-painted fiber-
glass cowl, twin scale exhaust pipes, pre-covered fuselage,
wing panels, vertical and horizontal stabilizers, rudder and
elevator, and complete set of scale markings.
•Wing rods, cabanes, struts, wing wire and wing-to-fuselage hardware.
•Cockpit hatch with magnetic anchor.
•Scale-looking landing gear.
•Steerable tailwheel. This illustrated Instruction Manual.
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Step 1. AILERONS
VI. ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Drill 1/16-inch guide holes in the supplied hardwood blocks
and attach your aileron servos to the blocks with the mounting
screws provided by the manufacturer of your servos.
2. Connect your aileron servos to your radio, power ON the radio,
and ‘center’ both servos. Disconnect the servos and set aside your
radio system, then connect each aileron servo to one of your
aileron-servo-wire extensions.
3. Center the aileron servo arms in their precut slot in the servo
mounting plates and use 5-minute epoxy to secure the blocks
(and the aileron servos) to the servo mounting plates.
4. Guide each aileron servo extension from the root rib to each aileron
servo’s wing opening.
5. Mount a control horn to each aileron and connect an aileron push-rod to each aileron control horn.
(Note: One owner prefers to use QuickLinks pushrod connectors as shown below.)
6. Insert the provided CA hinges into the precut aileron hinge
slots and insert the free end of each CA hinge into its
corresponding precut slot in the upper wing panels.
7. Being careful to ensure the inner end of each aileron does
not bind against the cutout in its mating wing panel, and
also being careful to leave enough clearance between the trailing edge of each wing panel and its
aileron to allow full UP and DOWN aileron travel, apply thin CA to secure each aileron hinge to
its wing panel and aileron.
8. Temporarily hold each aileron in a ‘neutral’ position by applying a small piece of masking tape
between each aileron and the trailing edge of its wing. Attach the free end of each aileron pushrod
to each aileron-servo’s control arm and adjust the clevis to hold the aileron in its ‘neutral’ position.
9. Secure the aileron clevises in position on their pushrods with the supplied jam nuts and apply a
drop or two of thin CA adhesive to make each adjustment permanent.
10. Remove the masking tape between the ailerons and the wing, and set the upper wing panels aside.
Step 2. TAIL SURFACES AND TAILWHEEL
1. Using a soldering iron, burn and remove the covering
material to obtain good wood-to-wood gluing surfaces
between the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer and its
mounting platform at the end of the fuselage.
2. Use 30-minute epoxy to permanently attach the hori-
zontal stabilizer to the end of the fuselage.
3. Test-fit the vertical stabilizer in its opening on top of
the horizontal stabilizer. Use a soldering iron to burn
(or cut) and remove any excess Mylar covering mat-
erial from the base of the vertical stabilizer to obtain
good wood-to-wood gluing surfaces between the
vertical and horizontal stabilizers.
4. Use 30-minute epoxy to secure the vertical stabilizer at all its
points of contact with the horizontal stabilizer and where the
vertical stabilizer’s lower ‘post’ must be aligned and joined to
the end of the fuselage.
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5. As illustrated at the right, this model uses a metal joiner to connect the
two halves of the elevator. Ensure the joiner is well-secured inside
both halves of the elevator with 5-minute epoxy.
6. Use thin CA adhesive, the supplied CA hinges, and the precut hinge
slots to mount the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer and the rudder to
the vertical stabilizer.
7. Using the predrilled holes, mount the control
horns to the rudder and elevator.
8. Using the predrilled hole under the horizontal
stabilizer in the bottom of the fuselage, install
the tail-wheel assembly by twisting its threaded
nylon housing fully into the fuselage. Apply a
drop of thin CA where the base of the housing
touches the fuselage.
9. Attach one end of the supplied tailwheel
steering spring to the tailwheel’s tiller arm.
Stretch the spring 1 1/2-to-2 times its normal
length and use a wood screw to anchor the
loose end of the spring to the bottom of the
rudder. Use thin CA adhesive to harden the
hole where the spring’s screw attaches rudder.
10. Guide the supplied rudder cables through the
slots on each side of the fuselage under the
horizontal stabilizer and to the rudder servo
tray inside the cockpit. (HINT: a. As shown
below, shine a bright light through the fuselage
to locate these slots. b. Attach a small weight
to the cables to guide them to the servo tray or
use a length of coat hanger wire to push each
wire through the fuselage.)
11. Remove the control arm from your rudder servo. Twist a brass
rod with a retainer-spring and lock nut into two supplied
clevises.
Open one side for
the elevator’s pushrod.
Open both sides for the
rudder’s pull-pull cables.
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The rudder’s pull-pull
cables as viewed through
the opening in the nose of
the fuselage.

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12. Attach the clevises to each end your rudder servo’s control arm, then
attach one end of each rudder cable to each brass rod.
13. Use the hardware provided with your servo to install the rudder servo
in the center opening of the fuselage’s preinstalled servo tray. Secure
the rudder servo’s control arm to your rudder servo.
14. Apply masking tape to temporarily hold the rudder in a
‘straight-ahead’ position. At both sides of the rudder, draw the
rudder cables ‘snug’ between the rudder servo’s control arm
and the rudder’s control horn and secure the rudder cables to
their brass pull-rods with crimp tubes. (Do not pull so hard on
either cable that you pull the servo arm or rudder from their
centered positions.)
15. With both tubes crimped onto their cables, snip off the excess rudder cable’s ends with a pair of
cutting-cutter pliers and discard the excess cable.
16. Snug the nut on each of the rudder’s brass pull-rods against its clevis and permanently anchor each
brass pull-rod in its clevis with thin CA adhesive. Remove the masking tape you applied to hold
the rudder straight.
17. Insert the elevator pushrod through the nose of the fuselage and out through the opening under the
vertical stabilizer (as shown in the photo and diagram on the left side of page 7). Using the
provided clevis, attach the elevator pushrod to the elevator control horn. Using the hardware
provided by your servo’s manufacturer, install your elevator servo in the left-side opening of the
fuselage’s servo tray. Use the provided clevis to attach the forward end of the pushrod to your
elevator servo.
18. Center the elevator servo and adjust the elevator pushrod’s clevises to center the elevator. Snug the
lock nuts against the elevator pushrod clevises. Permanently anchor each clevis to its pushrod with
thin CA adhesive.
19. As a safety precaution, double-check that every brass rod’s lock nut is snugged against its clevis
and that every brass pull-rod is permanently anchored into its clevis with thin CA adhesive.
Step 3. FUSELAGE
1. If you use a gas or glow engine, use the hardware provided with your servo to install the throttle
servo in the right-side opening of the fuselage’s preinstalled servo tray. (Harden the servo-tray’s
wood for the screws with thin CA adhesive.)
2. Test-fit the exhaust header pipes at the openings
on each side of the nose and in the indentations
below each side of the cockpit.
3. Align and secure the exhaust pipe’s ‘footsteps ‘
steps’ to the fuselage directly back from the
header pipes and below the cockpit opening using
5-minute epoxy. Mix Micro Balloons or an e
quivalent filler with your 5-minute epoxy and wood screws to secure both of the exhaust header
pipes to the wood that extends forward of both sides of the fuselage. Apply extra epoxy and filler
to the two extra-long front exhaust pipes at both the inside and the outside of the wood to ensure
both the exhaust pipes are well-secured.
4. To make use of the engine mounting box’s built-in tilt and offset, position your engine so its
propeller’s backplate is centered on the lines drawn on the engine mounting box’s firewall. Also
test-fit the cowl (but wait until #11 on the next page before you make the final adjustment of the
space between the back of the propeller and the front of the cowl).
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5. Mount your engine to the engine-box’s firewall:
a. For a gas engine, use your engine’s supplied blind nuts,
mounting bolts, standoffs, washers, etc.
b. For a glow engine, use an engine mount (not supplied)
sized to fit your particular engine.
6. If you are using electric power, use the mounting hardware
supplied with your motor to attach your motor to the
included EP motor box, then attach the EP motor box
to the front of the engine box.
(Remember to use a thread-lock compound to secure your
engine or motor mounting hardware from vibration.)
7. If you use a gas or glow engine, install the supplied fuel tank inside the engine mounting box.
Route all required fuel lines (such as the ‘clunk’ line for the carburetor, a vent line, and a line to
fill the tank). Install the throttle-control linkage and your throttle servo.
8. If you use a gas engine, install a ‘kill’ switch and/or any
extra linkages or controls required by your engine. Test-fit
the ignition module at either side of your engine and route
the ignition module’s power, sensor and sparkplug wires.
Before securing your engine and related components, apply
a coat of 5-minute epoxy to seal and fuel-proof all
exposed/raw wood.
9. If you use a gas engine and will install the optional exhaust-
manifold system, connect the engine’s muffler to the SPAD
XIII’s twin exhaust pipes by following the instructions
included with the manifold system.
10. If you use electric power, use the space in front of your
rudder and elevator servos for the power-system’s batteries;
mount your electronic speed control (ESC) above or on either side of the EP motor box.
11. Adjust the position of the engine box to fit your engine or electric power system as follows:
a. If you are using a gas or glow engine, temporarily remove the spark- or glow plug from your
engine. Slide the cowl into position.
b. Temporarily mount your propeller to your engine or motor; slide the engine mounting box
forward or backward within its opening in the fuselage so there is approx. 1/2-inch of clearance
between the back of your propeller and the front of the cowl.
12. Being careful to not move the engine mounting box, remove and set aside the cowl and your
propeller. Using wood screws, attach a piece of aluminum L-channel to the top and at the bottom
of the engine mounting box as well as to the SPAD’s firewall. Harden the holes in the wood where
the engine mounting box will be secured with thin CA adhesive.
IMPORTANT: If you use a gas- or glow-fueled engine, you will need access to the fuel tank
and fuel lines for periodic maintenance; therefore, you must NOT glue your SPAD XIII’s
engine mounting box into the fuselage if you use an engine.
13. Make all necessary openings in the cowl for your engine’s exhaust pipe(s), sparkplug and high-
voltage lead, etc. (WARNING: Wear your safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves.)
14. Slide the cowl into position. Use a 1/16-inch drill-bit to make 6 to 8 guide holes evenly spaced
around the back-edges of the cowl. Harden all guide holes where the cowl will attach to the
fuselage with thin CA adhesive. Drive screws through the guide holes to attach the cowl to the
fuselage.
15. If you will install the optional Vickers machine guns, attach them to the cowl by following the
instructions included with the guns.
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16. Install your radio receiver, switch and radio’s power supply (such as a NiMH NiCd battery, BEC,
or the ESC’s built-in 5-volt power supply, etc.), as recommended by your radio’s manufacturer.
17. Set up your radio system’s servo-control throws for the rudder, elevator, throttle, and any other
controls (such as an engine kill switch, choke control or other device) you may have installed.
Step 4. Main landing gear
1. Slide the main landing gear’s wheels onto their axles and secure each wheel with the supplied
wheel collars and set screws.
2. Press the main landing gear’s rear crossmember fully into the slot in the bottom of the fuselage,
then press the landing gear’s wooden retainer down into this same slot.
3. As shown at the right, press the landing gear’s front
crossmember into its mounting slot under the nose of the
fuselage. Use the supplied metal straps, 5/8-inch machine bolts,
and pre-installed blind nuts to secure the main landing gear’s
front crossmember to the fuselage.
4. Test fit the streamlined fairings onto the landing gear struts.
With the fairings fitted to the struts, secure the fairings in
position with glue.
5. Glue balsa strips into the slotted openings to cover the landing
gear struts. Sand the balsa wood to shape.
Step 5. Wings, Windshield and Flying Wires
1. Test-fit the six metal cabane struts and wooden mounting
tabs into the fuselage’s openings as illustrated below.
(NOTE: Align the base of each cabane strut with the
its opening in the fuselage.)
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(Pictured
with
fairings)

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2. With all six cabanes temporarily
positioned in their openings in the
fuselage, test-fit the mounting tabs
on the upper wing’s center section
to confirm the top of each cabane
correctly aligns with each of the
corresponding mounting tabs on the
upper wing’s center section.
3. When all six cabanes are correctly positioned in the fuselage, set aside the upper wing’s center
section. Drill a 1/16-inch guide hole through the lower, exposed portion of each cabane, into the
inboard plywood surface of each opening in the fuselage. Drive a wood screw through each guide
hole to secure each cabane into its opening in the fuselage.
4. Center the supplied windshield in front
of the cockpit and secure it to the
fuselage with three wood screws.
5. Insert both of the lower wing’s joiners
midway through the fuselage. Slide one
of the lower wing panels onto the joiners
and position this wing panel snugly
against the fuselage.
6. Slide the remaining lower wing panel
onto the remaining exposed ends of the
wing joiners and gently press both wing
panels against the fuselage.
7. Test-fit the RETAINER (pictured in
white and with the lower wing removed
for clarity) by positioning it between the
rear landing gear crossmember and the
two lower wing panels, with two of its
mounting holes behind the landing gear
crossmember so that it covers the slot in
the bottom of the fuselage and secures
the main landing gear’s rear cross-
member and wooden retainer and with
its remaining two holes extending out
onto the lower wing panels.
8. Drill 1/16-inch guide holes through the retainer and into the fuselage both the lower wing panels as
shown above.
9. Apply thin CA adhesive to harden the four guide holes where the retainer will be mounted, and
secure the retainer to the lower wing panels and to the fuselage with four wood screws.
10. Install the cockpit hatch (secured with its preinstalled magnet). If you will add an optional
Maxford USA 1/5 scale WWI pilot figure, ‘glue’ it into position on the cockpit hatch with a dab of
silicone or equivalent caulking. (Some customers prefer to use 5-minute epoxy.)
11. Place the ailerons’ Y-cable inside the upper wing’s center section with its female connectors
positioned so they are accessible at the center section’s root ribs. Using a sharp blade, remove the
Mylar that covers a precut hole in the bottom of the center section, and guide the Y-cable’s male
connector out through this hole.
1
2
3
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12. Insert and center the upper wing’s joiners through the upper wing’s center section. Slide both the
left and the right top wing panels onto these joiners. As each top wing panel gets
near the wing’s center section, connect each wing panel’s servo extension to the
Y-cable at the center section’s root rib. (Reminder: To help ensure the security
of these servo-extension connections, we recommend you install an optional
“servo-extension safety clip” at each servo/extender junction.)
13. Gently press the upper wing panels against the center section to form the
complete upper wing. (NOTE: In the following steps the upper and lower
wings will be joined into left- and right-hand pairs. There is little or no
force acting to separate the wing panels from the center section, but some
ultra-conservative customers like to apply a short length of transparent
tape on the bottom of the upper wing between the cabanes to ‘secure’ the
each wing panel to the center section. If you use tape,
remember to always remove the tape before trying to
remove the wings for transport and storage, and
apply new transparent tape during your next pre-
flight setup.)
14. Insert a wooden strut-mounting tab into each opening
in the top surface of the left and right lower wing
panels. Secure each tab with thin CA adhesive. Repeat
this process to install and secure all the wooden strut-
mounting tabs into in the openings in the bottom
surface of the left and right upper wing panels.
15. Test-fit the bottom ends of the front and rear struts onto
the lower wing’s strut mounting tabs. Match the angle
of each strut to the surface of the wing. Attach the
struts with bolts and nuts.
16. Position the upper wing’s center section with its wing
panels above the cabanes and struts. Carefully guide
the wooden mounting tabs for each cabane and wing
strut to their corresponding cabane and strut.
(NOTE: This ARF includes hardware for installing
wing wires. These wing wires are only cosmetic – to
enhance the model’s appearance and are not required
to safely enjoy this ARF model. Therefore, you have
the option to omit the italicized portions of the
following steps which pertain to wing wire
installation.)
17. With the threaded end of each bolt pointed toward the
fuselage, insert and push the bolts fully into and
through the predrilled hole in each of the struts and
wooden mounting tabs. To install the wing wires, place
a wing-wire anchor onto the exposed ends of the outer
strut’s bolts. Firmly secure each bolt, wing strut and
wing-wire anchor to its wooden mounting tab with a
supplied self-locking nut.
18. Use wood screws to install wing-wire anchors at approx. 1/4-inch outboard of the cabane struts
on each upper wing panel. Apply CA adhesive to harden each of the holes in the wing panels
where the screws are to be inserted.
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19. Connect the clevis end of the wires to the wing-wire anchors nearest the nose.
20. Using wood screws, secure two(2) wing-wire anchors near the leading and trailing edges of the
lower wing approx. 1/4-inch from the fuselage. Harden each hole with CA adhesive where the
wing-wire anchor screws are inserted. Direct the free end of each wing-wire anchor away from
the fuselage as you tighten each screw.
21. The definition of ‘Begin’ is the beginning attachment point of each wing-wire cable as explained
below:
21.1 Screw the end of a brass pull rod halfway into the threaded end of a clevis.
21.2 Slide a crimp tube onto the end of the cable.
21.3 Pass the end of the cable through the hole in the brass pull rod’s unthreaded end.
21.4 Bring the end of the cable back into and all the way through the crimp tube.
21.5 Loop the end of the cable back into the crimp tube and leave the end of the cable inside the
crimp tube.
21.6 Using long-nosed pliers, firmly squeeze several places along the length of the crimp tube to
crimp the tube securely onto the cable.
22. Begin by attaching the end of one of the two long wires to point ‘1’ on the left-hand set of wing
panels. Guide the wire through each anchor point, from number to the next numbered point, as
shown below:
(IMPORTANT: Carefully adjust the tension on each of the wing wires so the wings do not get
pulled out of proper alignment to each other. If the wings are twisted by misadjusting the wing
wires, this airplane may not be controllable in flight.)
23. ‘End’ the wing wire at anchor point ‘8’ by repeating steps 21.1 through 21.4 above, but this time
omit step 21.5, and replace step 21.6 with the following …
21.6 Using long-nosed pliers, pull the cable snug. Then loop the end of the cable back inside
the crimp tube, but this time pull the remaining, excess cable fully through and out of the
crimp tube. Crimp the tube securely onto the cable, snip off the excess cable with a pair
of cutting pliers and discard the excess cable.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
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24. Begin by attaching the end of one of the second long wire to point ‘1’ on the right-hand set of wing
panel. Guide the wire through each anchor point, from number to the next numbered point, as
shown below:
(IMPORTANT: Carefully adjust the tension on each of the wing wires so the wings do not get
pulled out of proper alignment to each other. If the wings are twisted by misadjusting the wing
wires, this airplane may not be controllable in flight.)
25. ‘End’ the wing wire at anchor point ‘8’ (i.e., the ending attachment point of each wing-wire cable)
by repeating steps 21.1 through 21.4, and as before, omit step 21.5, and replace step 21.6 with the
following …
21.6 Using long-nosed pliers, pull the cable snug. Then loop the end of the cable back inside
the crimp tube, but this time pull the remaining excess cable fully through and out of the
crimp tube. Crimp the tube securely onto the cable, snip off the excess cable with a pair
of cutting pliers and discard the excess cable.
26. With the shanks of each bolt pointed toward the wingtips, insert and push the bolts fully into and
through the predrilled hole in each of the cabanes and the top wing’s center section’s wooden
mounting tabs. To install the cabanes’ wires, place a wing-wire anchor onto the exposed ends of
the four rear cabanes’ bolts. Also place a wing-wire anchor under each of the four wood screws
that secure the four rear cabanes to the fuselage. Firmly secure each bolt, cabane and wing-wire
anchor to its wooden mounting tab with a self-locking nut.
27. Connect the ailerons’ servo lead to your receiver and position your receiver in the area
immediately in front of your rudder and elevator servos.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
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28. Begin by attaching one end of the shortest wire to point ‘1’ on the left-rear (top of #3 LEFT)
cabane. Route the wire through each numbered anchor point to point number ‘4’ as follows …
29. ‘End’ the shortest cabane wire at anchor point ‘4’ by repeating steps 21.1 through 21.4 as before,
then omit step 21.5 and replace step 21.6 with the following …
21.6 Using long-nosed pliers, pull the cable snug. Then loop the end of the cable back inside the
crimp tube, but this time pull the remaining excess cable fully through and out of the crimp
tube. Crimp the tube securely onto the cable, snip off the excess cable with a pair of cutting
pliers and discard the excess cable.
30. Begin by attaching one end of the remaining cabane wire to point ‘5’ on the center-left (top of #2
LEFT) cabane. Route the wire through each numbered anchor point to number ‘9’ as shown
above.
31. ‘End’ the remaining cabane wire at anchor point ‘9’ by repeating steps 21.1 through 21.4 as
before, omit step 21.5, and replace step 21.6 with the following …
21.6 Using long-nosed pliers, pull the cable snug. Then loop the end of the cable back inside the
crimp tube, but this time pull the remaining excess cable fully through and out of the crimp
tube. Crimp the tube securely onto the cable, snip off the excess cable with a pair of cutting
pliers and discard the excess cable.
32. When completed, each of the wing and cabane wires should all be ‘evenly snug.’
(IMPORTANT: Carefully adjust the tension on each of the wing wires so the wings do not get
pulled out of proper alignment to each other.
If the wings are twisted by misadjusting the
wing wires, this airplane may not be controllable
in flight.)
Step 6. Finishing Touches
1. Attach the stick-on insignias and markings.
2. Balance the propeller.
3. Use the hardware supplied with your engine or
motor to attach the propeller.
1
2
3
4
5 / 9
6
7
8
CABANE
STRUTS & WIRES
(AS VIEWED FROM
THE NOSE)
#
#
#
#
#
#
(
BETWEEN ANCHOR POINTS
2
AND
3
THE WIRE
PASSES THROUGH THE FUSELAGE.)
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Congratulations! Assembly is finished!
1. For the initial flight, set the SPAD XIII’s center of gravity (CG) so the model hangs level
(neither nose-up nor nose-down) when suspended at a point 3 5/8-to-4 inches back from the
leading edge of the top wing.
VII. SETUP & ADJUSTMENTS:
2. If you are using a Computer Radio, for your initial flight, set all linkages for maximum
possible deflections and soften the aileron’s and elevator’s control throws by applying 60%
exponential (30% exponential for the rudder). If you are using a Non-Computer Radio …
Low rates
Ailerons ........................... +20 degrees (+3/4 inch) .............. +35 degrees (+1 inch)
High rates
Elevator ........................... +25 degrees (+1 1/2 inches) ....... +30 degrees (+2 inches)
Rudder ............................. +25 degrees (+1 3/4 inches) ....... +30 degrees (+2 1/4 inches)
3. Check/adjust servo centering, direction and end-point settings. Review your radio’s instruction
manual if you require assistance with any radio-related setup and/or servo-adjustment questions.
4. Trim adjustments: The ailerons and rudder will probably require no adjustment (in all
probability you will be able to leave them centered, as assembled); however, be prepared to set
the elevator trim depending on how slow or fast you may like to fly. For example, if you
generally fly low and slow at scale-looking speeds, your SPAD XIII’s elevator might need a
small amount of up-trim.
5. Preparation for Transport (and Field Setup):
a) Unscrew and remove the wood screws that secure the retainer to the lower wing panels and to
the fuselage. (Set aside the screws and retainer for future use.) Gently slide the left- and right-
side pairs of wing panels away from the upper wing’s center section and from the fuselage,
disconnect the aileron servo connectors, and pull the wing panels fully free and away from
their wing rods.
b) To reattach the wings, reverse the above procedure. Be careful to align and slide the wing
panels evenly onto their joiner tubes, reattach the aileron servo connections, and snugly
reinstall the retainer’s screws into the bottom wing panels and fuselage.
1. Double-check the security of the engine-mounting box and firewall and make certain that all
screws, clevises and other connections throughout the air frame are secure.
VIII. PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS:
2. Double-check the control directions and amount of control throw of the ailerons, elevator, rudder
and throttle.
3. As with all radio-controlled model airplanes, this model must pass the radio range ground check
recommended by your radio’s manufacturer or you may not fly safely.
4. Get into the habit of moving your transmitter’s throttle to minimum before turning ON your
transmitter and carefully operate your radio-control and power systems according to the
manufacturer’s instructions.
Distributed by:
Maxford USA RC Model Distribution, Inc.
15939 Illinois Avenue. #C Tel (voice) ........................ [phone]
Paramount, CA 90723 Toll free (orders only) ..... [phone]
Website ................ www.maxfordusa.com
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