Mec Tarn 3 User manual

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MEC TARN 3
This booklet tells you how to prepare, assemble, and maintain your
new tent; please keep it for future reference. Set up your tent at
home before your first trip; this will allow you to inspect it for any
manufacturing defects, check that all parts are present, and learn the
assembly procedure with minimal stress on the tent and on you.
0.91m
2.23m
1.75m
TARN 3 Height inside 1.3m
Your Tarn 3
tent package includes:
Tent body
Tent fly
Three aluminum poles
Aluminum stakes and nylon guylines
Aluminum pole repair sleeve
Tent sack and pole sack
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SEAM SEALING
The seams of your tent have been waterproof taped on all exposed
seams. All features, such as Velcro® pole anchors and door tiebacks, have
been welded onto the inside of the fly to avoid any small leak points.
However, for extremely wet and windy conditions, you may want to re-
seal selected parts of your tent. These include parts of the inner tent
where condensation or windblown rain could potentially wick through,
such as lantern loops or pole clip suspension points. You may also wish to
seal the “in” side of any untaped floor seams exposed to ground moisture
or rainfall. For seam sealing and tent repairs, we recommend a quality
after-market polyurethane sealer such as McNett Seam Grip®.
Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling sealant vapours. For
complete sealing, evenly apply only the minimum required amount of
sealant into needle holes, thread, and fabric joints. Allow to dry and cure
overnight. McNett sealants (Seam Grip, and similar) cure more quickly in
a moist or humid environment. Before packing the tent for the first time,
dust newly sealed areas with talcum powder or spray them with 303TM
Protectant; freshly cured sealer can bond to itself even when dry. If the
tent is used hard and often you may need to reapply seam sealer in high-
wear areas.
SITE PREPARATION
Remove sharp objects that might puncture the tent floor.
A ground sheet beneath the tent is not necessary for waterproofness,
but it will reduce long-term wear on the tent floor. A ground sheet should
be cut or folded smaller than the tent floor to prevent water pooling
between the floor and the ground sheet. Another light and convenient
option is MEC’s custom-made, coated nylon Footprint.
In winter conditions, we recommend digging out a platform with
surrounding walls. To avoid melting depressions in the snow under the
tent, pack the snow down solidly by ski or foot.
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SET-UP
A note about shock-corded poles
Shockcord (bungee cord) is meant to keep pole sections in the proper
order—not as an automatic assembly mechanism for poles. Do not hold
one section while whipping the rest of the pole back and forth, or toss
the poles into the air; either procedure excessively stresses the pole joints
and shockcord. Instead, fit poles together section by section, making sure
that each piece slides completely into the next. Forcing an improperly
assembled pole into place can damage the pole and/or the tent body
and fly.
Assembling the Tent
1 Assemble all poles carefully as described in the previous paragraph.
You will have two side arch poles of equal length and one shorter front
arch pole with an angled section in the middle.
2Lay the tent body out flat, and unzip the door. In windy conditions, peg
out all floor corners before proceeding.
3Lay the two equal length side arch poles on top of the tent body,
crossing them in the centre to form an “X.”
4The plastic pole clips on the tent body are divided into three sets; each
set is identified by a separate colour of webbing loops. Each clip set
follows a seam line so that each pole will run parallel to one seam once it
is attached.
Start by the door at one front corner. Clip all of one colour set of pole clips
to one of the side arch poles, following the seam line to the diagonally
opposite back corner. Do the same with the other side arch pole, using all
of another colour set of clips.
5There are webbing tabs with grommets at all six corners of the tent
body. The webbing colours correspond to the appropriate pole clip
colours. Each webbing tab has two grommets so that you can increase or
decrease the tautness of the tent to allow for the fabric slackening caused
by changes in humidity.
Carefully fit the pole ends into the grommets at the four outside corners
of the tent body.
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6 At the front of the tent, slip the front arch pole over the side arch poles.
Fit the pole ends into the grommets at the side corners of the tent. Attach
the remaining clips to the front arch pole. For maximum stability, attach
the bottommost clip on each side to the front arch pole just above the
point where it crosses over the side poles. This pulls the poles closer,
allowing them to brace against one another.
7Spread the fly over the tent body with the webbing colours on the
fly corners matching the webbing colours on the tent floor corners (the
scooped vent on the fly goes in front of the door in the tent body).
8On the underside of the fly are four Velcro® wrap-ties.
Attach all the wrap-ties. It is easiest to attach them in the following order:
One wrap-tie goes around the centre of the front arch pole, at its highest
point. Two more wrap-ties go around the two junctions where the front
arch pole and the longer side poles cross. The final wrap-tie goes around
the junction of the two long poles at the back of the tent. Note: at
these pole junctions, fasten the wrap-ties around both poles as tightly
as possible; this will maximize the tent’s strength by bracing the poles
against each other. To do this: wrap the longer Velcro tab horizontally
twice around both poles, pull on the tab end to cinch it tight, then secure
it by folding the shorter Velcro tab over it.
9Fit all six webbing tabs onto the appropriate pole tips, over the webbing
grommets from the tent body as shown in figures A and B. Fold the tabs
under the body of the tent as you go.
The basic set-up is now complete.
Staking and Tensioning the Tent
Even freestanding tents should be pegged to avoid them blowing away
and to permit proper ventilation. At a minimum, peg out the two back
corners of the tent and the two front corners of the vestibule.
The Tarn 3 has anchor loops and external guy points for even more secure
anchoring in windy conditions. First anchor the corners of the floor with
pegs. If you have not already done so, attach the Velcro wrap-ties on the
figure A figure B
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underside of the fly to the poles (see Step 7, above.) Guy out the two
guypoints corresponding to these wrap-ties if necessary. For additional
stability, peg out the pullouts at the base of the fly sidewalls.
The Tarn 3 is designed for lightweight, compact, three-season performance.
Keep this in mind when selecting and preparing a tent site: a little shelter
as provided by trees, rock, or snow walls will make for a quieter night’s
sleep under windy conditions.
Anchoring the Tent
The #7001-T6 aluminum stakes included with the tent are suitable for
general use on relatively soft ground. However, in very hard-packed
ground you will need stronger (and heavier!) stakes that can withstand
the force needed to drive them in. On snow, sand, or other loose-packed
surfaces, wider T-Stakes or aluminum snow stakes will hold better; these
stakes hold best buried horizontally. You can also improvise with other
“stakes” (hiking staffs, ice axes, branches, rocks, trees), using the tent’s
stake loops or cord as required.
When packing for your trip, consider the conditions you’ll likely encounter
and what sort of anchors you’ll require. You can often leave several of
the supplied pegs at home and replace them with improvised anchors,
thereby saving weight and space in your pack.
Ventilating the Tent
Proper ventilation is the key to minimizing condensation in any tent. Keep
fabric doors open as widely as the prevailing weather permits. If bugs
or drafts aren’t a problem, leave mesh doors open too. Crack each door
open from the top down; warm, moist air rises and will escape through
high openings. If the design of your tent allows for it, have openings at
both ends or both sides of the tent to allow air to flow through for best
ventilation. On very hot nights, when you are confident there will be no
rain or dewfall, you can leave the flysheet off and use the inner tent alone
as a “bug tent.”
Disassembling the Tent
The most important consideration in taking down a tent is not to stress
the poles and fabrics. First, disconnect guylines and release the tension
from the tent. Next, release all the poles. If your tent has pole sleeves,
push the poles out of the sleeves instead of pulling them out. To minimize
the stress on the bungee cord in the poles and to speed disassembly,
fold each pole in half first, and then fold down towards the outsides, two
sections at a time.
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Packing the Tent
If possible, fold and roll the tent rather than stuffing it into its sack—rolling
makes a smaller package, and causes fewer creases in the polyurethane
coating. The tent and poles may be carried separately for easier packing
or load sharing. There are two drawcords on the tent sack. Use the lower
one when carrying the tent separately from the poles; this makes a
shorter package that fits sideways into a pack. If carrying the pole sack
on the outside of a pack, securely attach the drawcord to the pack to
avoid loss.
A pole tip: The angled middle section of the front arch pole has one
longer and one shorter adjoining section. If you leave the angled section
plugged into the shorter section rather than into the longer one, the final
pole package will be shorter. Experiment to see which side is the correct
one to unplug. You may wish to mark the shorter section with a piece of
tape as a reminder.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Protecting the Tent
Ultraviolet damage is the single largest hazard your tent faces in its
lifetime. Fabrics should not be exposed to sunlight for extended periods
of time; this will eventually result in colour fading and fabric failure. The
uncoated fabrics of the tent canopy are most susceptible to damage from
UV and should be covered by the more durable fly. If extended exposure
is unavoidable, cover the tent with a tarp or a sheet of nylon.
Lighting your Tent
Using a candle lantern in a tent carries definite risks. Never leave a candle
lantern burning unattended; always watch for fire hazard from overheating
fabrics or spilling wax. Spilling wax can be dangerous, particularly to eyes
and other sensitive areas. It is your responsibility to use candle lanterns
wisely and with extreme caution: we do not endorse the use of any
flame or heat source in a tent. Cooking in a tent is strongly discouraged
because of fire hazards and carbon monoxide inhalation risks. Unlike
campfire smoke and other fumes, which cause you to gasp for air, carbon
monoxide can render you unconscious without any warning.
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Food in Tents
Mop up spills promptly with water. Many foods, particularly acidic ones
like fruit or juices, can weaken synthetic fabrics over time. In any case it is
best to eat and store food away from a tent to avoid attracting animals.
Cleaning
Clean the tent by hand while it is set up, using a sponge, a mild non-
detergent soap, and warm water. Rinse thoroughly. Do not dry clean,
machine wash, or machine dry. Stubborn stains like tar can be left in place
and dusted with talcum powder to prevent transfer to other areas of the
tent in storage. After cleaning, a spray-on water repellent designed for
synthetic fabrics may be applied to the flysheet if surface water repellency
is weakening. (This is apparent when water droplets no longer bead up
on the fabric.)
If the poles are exposed to salt or salt water, rinse them in fresh water and
allow them to dry before storing. (While aluminum does not rust, it can
become brittle through unseen corrosion over time.)
Lubricating the Poles
Occasionally apply a light coating of a silicone-based lubricant like 303TM
Protectant to the tent pole connections. If the poles are used extensively
in marine environments, treat them more frequently.
Storing your Tent
Dry the tent and poles completely before storage to avoid mildew or
hidden pole corrosion. Store in a cool, dry place out of direct light.
Mildewed tents can be cleaned as described above, but there is no way to
remove the dark stains without damaging the fabric. Mildew will probably
take some time to affect the waterproof coatings, so the tent should still
be usable.
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REPAIRING YOUR TENT
Fabric Tears
Watertight repairs to rips can be made with seam sealant such as McNett
FreesoleTM, AquasealTM, or Seam Grip®. For tears shorter than about 1.5cm
(1/2in.), apply duct tape to one side and sealant to the other. On longer
tears, apply duct tape to one side of the tear and, on the other side,
a patch of no-see-um netting that extends about 6-12mm (1/4-1/2in.)
beyond each edge of the tear. Use oval or circular patches (rounded
edges are less likely to peel away than sharp corners). Cover the patch
thoroughly in sealant. Once the sealant is completely dry, the duct tape
can be removed from small and large repairs alike.
For longer trips, we recommend taking an expedition sewing kit and extra
nylon, webbing, a spare pole section, and narrow-diameter (2.5mm) tent
pole shockcord. Coghlan’s Seam Saturant or the like will prevent wicking
through a tent fly via seams or webbing.
Fixing a Pole in the Field
Slip the pole repair sleeve over one pole end. Slide the sleeve along
until it is centred over the break in the pole, then wrap it into place with
duct tape. Be careful not to damage the tent fabrics when removing the
damaged pole.
Replacing a Broken Pole Section
The MEC Grip-TipTM pole tips are press-fitted into place. Carefully tug out
the pole end tip nearest to the broken section. Being mindful of how
to retie it later, untie the end tip. Slide pole sections off the cord until
you reach the damaged section. Remove the broken piece, being careful
not to damage the shockcord. Thread on a new section of appropriate
length and diameter, followed by the other sections, then re-tie the end
tip knot.
Zippers
A worn slider is the cause of most zipper problems. An occasional
application of 303TM Protectant or a silicone-based lubricant will help
reduce wear. Grit accelerates slider wear. Keep zippers clean by rinsing
them under water after use in windy/sandy environments. Sometimes,
carefully squeezing the top ends of the slider with a pair of pliers will
restore some life. If an inner door slider fails, run it as far as possible toward
one end of the zipper, and use only the other slider for the duration of the
trip. A sewing repair shop can replace inoperable sliders.
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