Mec LIGHTFIELD User manual

1
MEC LIGHTFIELD
This booklet tells you how to prepare, assemble, and maintain your
new tent; please keep it for future reference. Set up your tent at
home before your first trip; this will allow you to inspect it for any
manufacturing defects, check that all parts are present, and learn the
assembly procedure with minimal stress on the tent and on you.
LIGHTFIELD Height inside 0.95m
2.29m
1.37m
0.8m 0.4m
Your Lightfield
tent package includes:
Tent body
Tent fly
Four shock-corded poles
Aluminum stakes and nylon guylines
Aluminum pole repair sleeve
Lightfield eng.indd 1Lightfield eng.indd 1 3/1/05 2:32:17 PM3/1/05 2:32:17 PM

2
SEAM SEALING
The seams of your tent have been waterproof taped on all exposed
seams. All features, such as Velcro® pole anchors and door tiebacks, have
been welded onto the inside of the fly to avoid any small leak points.
However, for extremely wet and windy conditions, you may want to re-
seal selected parts of your tent. These include parts of the inner tent
where condensation or windblown rain could potentially wick through,
such as lantern loops or pole clip suspension points. You may also wish to
seal the “in” side of any untaped floor seams exposed to ground moisture
or rainfall. For seam sealing and tent repairs, we recommend a quality
after-market polyurethane sealer such as McNett Seam Grip®.
Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling sealant vapours. For
complete sealing, evenly apply only the minimum required amount of
sealant into needle holes, thread, and fabric joints. Allow to dry and cure
overnight. McNett sealants (Seam Grip, and similar) cure more quickly
in a moist or humid environment. Before packing the tent for the first
time, dust newly sealed areas with talcum powder or spray them with
303TM Protectant; freshly cured sealer can bond to itself even when dry. If
the tent is used hard and often you may need to reapply seam sealer in
high-wear areas.
SITE PREPARATION
Remove sharp objects that might puncture the tent floor.
A ground sheet beneath the tent is not necessary for waterproofness,
but it will reduce long-term wear on the tent floor. A ground sheet should
be cut or folded smaller than the tent floor to prevent water pooling
between the floor and the ground sheet. Another light and convenient
option is MEC’s custom-made, coated nylon Footprint.
In winter conditions, we recommend digging out a platform with
surrounding walls. To avoid melting depressions in the snow under the
tent, pack the snow down solidly by ski or foot.
Lightfield eng.indd 2Lightfield eng.indd 2 3/1/05 2:32:23 PM3/1/05 2:32:23 PM

3
SET-UP
A note about shock-corded poles
Shockcord (bungee cord) is meant to keep pole sections in the proper
order—not as an automatic assembly mechanism for poles. Do not
hold one section while whipping the rest of the pole back and forth,
or toss the poles into the air; either procedure excessively stresses the
pole joints and shockcord. Instead, fit poles together section by section,
making sure that each piece slides completely into the next. Forcing
an improperly assembled pole into place can damage the pole and/or
the tent body and fly.
Assembling the Tent
1 Assemble all poles carefully as described in the previous paragraph.
You will have two long gold poles and two shorter black poles.
2Lay the tent body out flat. In windy conditions, you may wish to peg
one or more corners at this stage.
3Lay the gold poles on top of the tent body so that they criss-cross
diagonally along the long axis of the tent.
4The pole clip webbing is colour-coded to ease set-up. Attach the pole
clips that have yellow webbing to the gold poles, following the diagonal
seam lines. Plug the pole ends into the outermost grommets at the four
tent corners. Be careful to avoid excessive bending of the poles, especially
in wind.
There is more than one grommet on all the pole webbing tabs so that
you can increase or decrease the tautness of the tent to compensate
for fabric slackening or tightening caused by changes in humidity. When
first erecting the tent it is best to use the outermost (loosest) grommet
on each tab.
5Install the short black poles, one at each end of the tent, under the long
gold poles. Note that one black pole has an angled centre arch connector;
this pole goes at the front end of the tent body (the end with the largest
of the two doors).
a) Insert ends into the outermost grommets of the nearest unused
webbing loops.
b) Attach the black plastic pole clips.
6Spread the fly over the tent, with the larger door/vestibule at the front
(angled pole) end of the tent. On the underside of the fly, opposite each
of the four points where the long and short poles overlap, is a Velcro®
wrap-tie. Attaching these wrap-ties over both poles helps make the tent
Lightfield eng.indd 3Lightfield eng.indd 3 3/1/05 2:32:24 PM3/1/05 2:32:24 PM

4
its strongest: The wrap-ties allow the poles to reinforce one another in a
series of trusses; they also connect the guyline attachment points directly
to the poles for maximum stiffness when these guylines are rigged.
7Fit the eight webbing tabs of the fly on to the ends of all the poles,
placing the grommets over the grommets from the tent body as shown
in figures A and B. Fold the grommet tab under the body of the tent,
facing the finger pull loop away from the tent to allow for easy removal of
the fly later.
Alternatively, instead of attaching the four mid-point webbing tabs to
their pole ends, peg them out to the side of the tent using short pieces of
guyline cord; this will provide maximum ventilation and wind stability.
8 Peg out the four vestibule anchor loops at the front and back doors of
the tent fly; after completing the set-up, you can tighten these anchor
loops for a taut pitch.
Basic Tensioning
Anchor the four corners of the tent to flatten the floor and provide a
stable platform for the poles. The corner loops can accommodate skis
and ice axes as pegs.
Extreme Weather Rigging
The Lightfield’s anchor loops and external and internal guy points allow
it to be rigged increasingly securely as conditions worsen, as explained in
the following points roughly according to their order of “need.”
• If you have not already done so (see Step 6 above), connect the four
Velcro loops inside the fly to the pole intersections. Peg out the four
grommet web loops at the bases of the short black poles. Guy out the
triangular guy points located midway up the fly sidewalls.
• There are four inset blue triangle-shaped guypoints, located on the fly
over the intersections of the gold and black poles. Guy these out with
the lines at a 45° angle to the door axis.
• There are four internal guy loops on the top of the inside of the tent and
six on the floor. Attach lines connecting the top of one side of the tent
to the bottom of the other side to improve stability and support the
frame. Combine these with the external guy lines if the terrain prevents
the use of external guy points.
figure A figure B
Lightfield eng.indd 4Lightfield eng.indd 4 3/1/05 2:32:25 PM3/1/05 2:32:25 PM

5
Condensation on the Canopy
The polyester canopy fabric absorbs much less water than nylon, so the
inner tent walls will usually feel dryer than nylon would, and, unlike nylon,
will not stretch and sag in damp conditions. MEC’s proprietary Tensilk-HTTM
polyester is exceptionally strong, yet weighs about the same as no-see-
um mesh. Tensilk-HT gets its strength from an extremely tight weave, so
under very cold conditions (minus 15°C or below) some condensation and
icing may occur on the inside of the canopy. If it does, simply brush off and
sweep out any accumulated frost before packing the tent.
Ultralight Set-up
Using a custom Footprint (available separately), you can erect just the fly.
This configuration provides a very light, compact, and basic shelter, and
will dry more quickly in the morning because of better airflow. However,
the set-up is not readily bug-proof, it is subject to more condensation
forming on the inside of the fly, and it does not keep foul weather out as
effectively.
This set-up is easiest with two people. Spread the Footprint out flat on
the ground. Insert the two long gold poles into the appropriate grommets
at the front and back corners of the Footprint, while one person holds
the two poles steady at the point where they cross. Spread the fly over the
poles (and the person). Ensure the fly doors are correctly oriented to the
Footprint, then use the Velcro fasteners at the centre inside top of the fly to
secure the pole crossing by wrapping around the crossover point. Insert the
two short black poles into the appropriate Footprint grommets, with the
angled pole to the front. Secure them to the gold poles at the four crossing
points using the Velcro strips on the fly. Attach the remaining Velcro strips
directly to individual poles. Attach the grommet strips at the base of the
fly to the pole tips, folding them under as for usual set-up. The tent may
be guyed and pegged out as usual. In wind, peg out the Footprint before
beginning. Keep vents and doors open as much as possible to minimize
condensation. Snow, sand, etc. may be piled up or scooped away around
the base of the fly to vary the airflow through the tent. Disturb soil as little
as possible to leave the site untouched for others to enjoy.
Anchoring the Tent
The #7001-T6 aluminum stakes included with the tent are suitable for
general use on relatively soft ground. However, in very hard-packed
ground you will need stronger (and heavier!) stakes that can withstand
the force needed to drive them in. On snow, sand, or other loose-packed
surfaces, wider T-Stakes or aluminum snow stakes will hold better; these
stakes hold best buried horizontally. You can also improvise with other
“stakes” (hiking staffs, ice axes, branches, rocks, trees), using the tent’s
stake loops or cord as required.
Lightfield eng.indd 5Lightfield eng.indd 5 3/1/05 2:32:26 PM3/1/05 2:32:26 PM

6
When packing for your trip, consider the conditions you’ll likely encounter
and what sort of anchors you’ll require. You can often leave several of
the supplied pegs at home and replace them with improvised anchors,
thereby saving weight and space in your pack.
Ventilating the Tent
Proper ventilation is the key to minimizing condensation in any tent. Keep
fabric doors open as widely as the prevailing weather permits. If bugs
or drafts aren’t a problem, leave mesh doors open too. Crack each door
open from the top down; warm, moist air rises and will escape through
high openings. If the design of your tent allows for it, have openings at
both ends or both sides of the tent to allow air to flow through for best
ventilation. On very hot nights, when you are confident there will be no
rain or dewfall, you can leave the flysheet off and use the inner tent alone
as a “bug tent.”
Disassembling the Tent
The most important consideration in taking down a tent is not to stress
the poles and fabrics. First, disconnect guylines and release the tension
from the tent. Next, release all the poles. If your tent has pole sleeves,
push the poles out of the sleeves instead of pulling them out. To minimize
the stress on the bungee cord in the poles and to speed disassembly,
fold each pole in half first, and then fold down towards the outsides, two
sections at a time.
Packing the Tent
If possible, fold and roll the tent rather than stuffing it into its sack—rolling
makes a smaller package, and causes fewer creases in the polyurethane
coating. The tent and poles may be carried separately for easier packing
or load sharing. There are two drawcords on the tent sack. Use the lower
one when carrying the tent separately from the poles; this makes a
shorter package that fits sideways into a pack. If carrying the pole sack
on the outside of a pack, securely attach the drawcord to the pack to
avoid loss.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Protecting the Tent
Ultraviolet damage is the single largest hazard your tent faces in its
lifetime. Fabrics should not be exposed to sunlight for extended periods
of time; this will eventually result in colour fading and fabric failure. The
uncoated fabrics of the tent canopy are most susceptible to damage from
UV and should be covered by the more durable fly. If extended exposure
is unavoidable, cover the tent with a tarp or a sheet of nylon.
Lightfield eng.indd 6Lightfield eng.indd 6 3/1/05 2:32:26 PM3/1/05 2:32:26 PM

7
Lighting your Tent
Using a candle lantern in a tent carries definite risks. Never leave a candle
lantern burning unattended; always watch for fire hazard from overheating
fabrics or spilling wax. Spilling wax can be dangerous, particularly to eyes
and other sensitive areas. It is your responsibility to use candle lanterns
wisely and with extreme caution: we do not endorse the use of any flame or
heat source in a tent. Cooking in a tent is strongly discouraged because of
fire hazards and carbon monoxide inhalation risks. Unlike campfire smoke
and other fumes, which cause you to gasp for air, carbon monoxide can
render you unconscious without any warning.
Food in Tents
Mop up spills promptly with water. Many foods, particularly acidic ones
like fruit or juices, can weaken synthetic fabrics over time. In any case it is
best to eat and store food away from a tent to avoid attracting animals.
Cleaning
Clean the tent by hand while it is set up, using a sponge, a mild non-
detergent soap, and warm water. Rinse thoroughly. Do not dry clean,
machine wash, or machine dry. Stubborn stains like tar can be left in place
and dusted with talcum powder to prevent transfer to other areas of the
tent in storage. After cleaning, a spray-on water repellent designed for
synthetic fabrics may be applied to the flysheet if surface water repellency
is weakening. (This is apparent when water droplets no longer bead up
on the fabric.)
If the poles are exposed to salt or salt water, rinse them in fresh water and
allow them to dry before storing. (While aluminum does not rust, it can
become brittle through unseen corrosion over time.)
Lubricating the Poles
Occasionally apply a light coating of a silicone-based lubricant like 303TM
Protectant to the tent pole connections. If the poles are used extensively
in marine environments, treat them more frequently.
Storing your Tent
Dry the tent and poles completely before storage to avoid mildew or
hidden pole corrosion. Store in a cool, dry place out of direct light.
Mildewed tents can be cleaned as described above, but there is no way to
remove the dark stains without damaging the fabric. Mildew will probably
take some time to affect the waterproof coatings, so the tent should still
be usable.
Lightfield eng.indd 7Lightfield eng.indd 7 3/1/05 2:32:27 PM3/1/05 2:32:27 PM

8
REPAIRING YOUR TENT
Fabric Tears
Watertight repairs to rips can be made with seam sealant such as McNett
FreesoleTM, AquasealTM, or Seam Grip®. For tears shorter than about 1.5cm
(1/2in.), apply duct tape to one side and sealant to the other. On longer
tears, apply duct tape to one side of the tear and, on the other side,
a patch of no-see-um netting that extends about 6-12mm (1/4-1/2in.)
beyond each edge of the tear. Use oval or circular patches (rounded
edges are less likely to peel away than sharp corners). Cover the patch
thoroughly in sealant. Once the sealant is completely dry, the duct tape
can be removed from small and large repairs alike.
For longer trips, we recommend taking an expedition sewing kit and extra
nylon, webbing, a spare pole section, and narrow-diameter (2.5mm) tent
pole shockcord. Coghlan’s Seam Saturant or the like will prevent wicking
through a tent fly via seams or webbing.
Fixing a Pole in the Field
Slip the pole repair sleeve over one pole end. Slide the sleeve along
until it is centred over the break in the pole, then wrap it into place with
duct tape. Be careful not to damage the tent fabrics when removing the
damaged pole.
Replacing a Broken Pole Section
The MEC Grip-TipTM pole tips are press-fitted into place. Carefully tug out
the pole end tip nearest to the broken section. Being mindful of how to
retie it later, untie the end tip. Slide pole sections off the cord until you
reach the damaged section. Remove the broken piece, being careful not
to damage the shockcord. Thread on a new section of appropriate length
and diameter, followed by the other sections, then re-tie the end tip knot.
Zippers
A worn slider is the cause of most zipper problems. An occasional
application of 303TM Protectant or a silicone-based lubricant will help
reduce wear. Grit accelerates slider wear. Keep zippers clean by rinsing
them under water after use in windy/sandy environments. Sometimes,
carefully squeezing the top ends of the slider with a pair of pliers will
restore some life. If an inner door slider fails, run it as far as possible toward
one end of the zipper, and use only the other slider for the duration of the
trip. A sewing repair shop can replace inoperable sliders.
Lightfield eng.indd 8Lightfield eng.indd 8 3/1/05 2:32:28 PM3/1/05 2:32:28 PM