Mec HUMMINGBIRD 2 User manual

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HUMMINGBIRD 2
This booklet tells you how to prepare, assemble, and maintain your
new tent; please keep it for future reference. Set up your tent at
home before your first trip; this will allow you to inspect it for any
manufacturing defects, check that all parts are present, and learn the
assembly procedure with minimal stress on the tent and on you.
HUMMINGBIRD 2 Height inside .940m
0.93m
0.64m
1.25m
2.25m
Your Hummingbird 2
tent package includes:
Tent body
Tent fly
2 aluminum poles
Tent pegs and two nylon guylines
Aluminum pole repair sleeve
Tent sack and pole sack
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SEAM SEALING
The seams of your tent have been waterproof taped on all exposed
seams. All features, such as Velcro® pole anchors and door tiebacks, have
been welded onto the inside of the fly to avoid any small leak points.
However, for extremely wet and windy conditions, you may want to re-
seal selected parts of your tent. These include parts of the inner tent
where condensation or windblown rain could potentially wick through,
such as lantern loops or pole clip suspension points. You may also wish to
seal the “in” side of any untaped floor seams exposed to ground moisture
or rainfall. For seam sealing and tent repairs, we recommend a quality
after-market polyurethane sealer such as McNett Seam Grip®.
SITE PREPARATION
Remove sharp objects that might puncture the tent floor.
A ground sheet beneath the tent is not necessary for waterproofness,
but it will reduce long-term wear on the tent floor. A ground sheet should
be cut or folded smaller than the tent floor to prevent water pooling
between the floor and the ground sheet. Another light and convenient
option is MEC’s custom-made, coated nylon Footprint.
In winter conditions, we recommend digging out a platform with
surrounding walls. To avoid melting depressions in the snow under the
tent, pack the snow down solidly by ski or foot.
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SET-UP
A note about shock-corded poles
Shockcord (bungee cord) is meant to keep pole sections in the proper
order—not as an automatic assembly mechanism for poles. Do not hold
one section while whipping the rest of the pole back and forth, or toss
the poles into the air; either procedure excessively stresses the pole joints
and shockcord. Instead, fit poles together section by section, making sure
that each piece slides completely into the next. Forcing an improperly
assembled pole into place can damage the pole and/or the tent body
and fly.
Assembling the Tent
1 Assemble both poles carefully as described in the previous paragraph.
You will have two poles: a long front one and a shorter rear one.
2Lay the inner tent out flat, with the mesh panels on top. In windy
conditions, you may wish to peg out the back end (the one without the
door) before proceeding. Pegging the back end into the wind will make
setting up the tent easier and make the assembled tent stronger.
3Lay the longer pole on top of the inner tent at the front end (the end
with the door), running side to side. Plug the ends of the poles into the
grommets at the corners of the tent floor. There is more than one grommet
on each webbing tab so that you can increase or decrease the tautness
of the tent to compensate for fabric slackening or tightening caused by
changes in humidity. When first erecting the tent, it is best to use the
outermost (loosest) grommet on each tab.
4Clip the black plastic clips on to the pole, ensuring that the webbing
holding the clips is not twisted.
5Repeat steps 3 and 4 at the rear of the tent body, using the shorter
pole.
Attaching the Fly
If needed in rainy, snowy, windy, or cold conditions.
1 If you have not already done so, peg out the tent’s back end. Then
peg out the two front points of the inner tent to lift the inner tent into
shape. Spread the fly out over the tent with the door zipper/vent
matching the door over the inner tent. If wind is likely, fasten the six
Velcro® attachment loops on the underside of the fly to the poles
(see Rigging for bad weather).
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2Pop the four grommet tabs around the base of the fly onto the
appropriate pole-ends, folding the tabs “out and over,” as shown in
figures A and B.
3Slip the three fly anchor loops over the same pegs as used for the inner
tent, then tension them all to adjust the “pitch” of the tent for the ground
it’s on. For best ventilation and dryness in damp weather, peg out the two
short guypoints at the base of the fly sidewalls (adding short lengths of
line to these points may make pegging easier).
Rigging for bad weather
The Hummingbird 2 has a number of guyline attachment points so you
can rig it increasingly securely in response to actual or anticipated winds.
Two guylines are supplied with the tent. Carry additional guylines if you
anticipate using the tent in bad weather.
• If you have not already done so, fasten the fly directly to the poles
using the six Velcro® loops on the inside of the fly (see Attaching the
Fly, Step 1). Guy out the two black rubberized attachment points at the
front of the tent and the attachment point at the top of the rear pole.
To minimize the sidewalls flapping, guy out the attachment points that
are half-way up each side of the fly. If the vestibule is facing into the
wind, run a guyline from the attachment loop on the vent lip to brace
it. Whichever attachment points you use should counter-balance one
another for maximum stability and minimum stress on the tent. With
extra pegs, you can peg the four bases of the poles, though this is
necessary only in strong winds.
• The Hummingbird 2 is designed to offer three-season performance
and extraordinary room at absolute minimum weight and packed bulk.
To achieve this, it gives up some of the strength, snow-bearing ability,
and wind-handling capacity of lower profile, heavier tents. Keep this in
mind when selecting and preparing a tent site. (As with any tent, a little
shelter provided by trees, rock, or snow walls will make for a quieter
night’s sleep under windy conditions.) Pitch the tent with the foot end
into the wind for maximum stability.
figure A figure B
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Customizing the door arrangement
There is a peg loop on either side of the vestibule door zipper where it
reaches the ground; by staking out one loop or the other, you can make
the door centre-opening or side-opening to adapt it to the prevailing
wind or local landscape features. The centre opening will provide best
ventilation; the side opening provides maximum sheltered storage space,
though it does require more crouching to enter or exit the tent.
Anchoring the Tent
The #7001-T6 aluminum stakes included with the tent are suitable for
general use on relatively soft ground. However, in very hard-packed
ground you will need stronger (and heavier!) stakes that can withstand
the force needed to drive them in. On snow, sand, or other loose-packed
surfaces, wider T-Stakes or aluminum snow stakes will hold better; these
stakes hold best buried horizontally. You can also improvise with other
“stakes” (hiking staffs, ice axes, branches, rocks, trees), using the tent’s
stake loops or cord as required.
When packing for your trip, consider the conditions you’ll likely encounter
and what sort of anchors you’ll require. You can often leave several of
the supplied pegs at home and replace them with improvised anchors,
thereby saving weight and space in your pack.
Ventilating the Tent
Proper ventilation is the key to minimizing condensation in any tent. Keep
fabric doors open as widely as the prevailing weather permits. If bugs
or drafts aren’t a problem, leave mesh doors open too. Crack each door
open from the top down; warm, moist air rises and will escape through
high openings. If the design of your tent allows for it, have openings at
both ends or both sides of the tent to allow air to flow through for best
ventilation. On very hot nights, when you are confident there will be no
rain or dewfall, you can leave the flysheet off and use the inner tent alone
as a “bug tent.”
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Disassembling the Tent
The most important consideration in taking down a tent is not to stress
the poles and fabrics. First, disconnect guylines and release the tension
from the tent. Next, release all the poles. If your tent has pole sleeves,
push the poles out of the sleeves instead of pulling them out. To minimize
the stress on the bungee cord in the poles and to speed disassembly,
fold each pole in half first, and then fold down towards the outsides, two
sections at a time.
Packing the Tent
If possible, fold and roll the tent rather than stuffing it into its sack—rolling
makes a smaller package, and causes fewer creases in the polyurethane
coating. The tent and poles may be carried separately for easier packing
or load sharing. There are two drawcords on the tent sack. Use the lower
one when carrying the tent separately from the poles; this makes a
shorter package that fits sideways into a pack. If carrying the pole sack
on the outside of a pack, securely attach the drawcord to the pack to
avoid loss.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Protecting the Tent
Ultraviolet damage is the single largest hazard your tent faces in its
lifetime. Fabrics should not be exposed to sunlight for extended periods
of time; this will eventually result in colour fading and fabric failure. The
uncoated fabrics of the tent canopy are most susceptible to damage from
UV and should be covered by the more durable fly. If extended exposure
is unavoidable, cover the tent with a tarp or a sheet of nylon.
Lighting your Tent
Using a candle lantern in a tent carries definite risks. Never leave a candle
lantern burning unattended; always watch for fire hazard from overheating
fabrics or spilling wax. Spilling wax can be dangerous, particularly to eyes
and other sensitive areas. It is your responsibility to use candle lanterns
wisely and with extreme caution: we do not endorse the use of any
flame or heat source in a tent. Cooking in a tent is strongly discouraged
because of fire hazards and carbon monoxide inhalation risks. Unlike
campfire smoke and other fumes, which cause you to gasp for air, carbon
monoxide can render you unconscious without any warning.
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Food in Tents
Mop up spills promptly with water. Many foods, particularly acidic ones
like fruit or juices, can weaken synthetic fabrics over time. In any case it is
best to eat and store food away from a tent to avoid attracting animals.
Cleaning
Clean the tent by hand while it is set up, using a sponge, a mild non-
detergent soap, and warm water. Rinse thoroughly. Do not dry clean,
machine wash, or machine dry. Stubborn stains like tar can be left in place
and dusted with talcum powder to prevent transfer to other areas of the
tent in storage. After cleaning, a spray-on water repellent designed for
synthetic fabrics may be applied to the flysheet if surface water repellency
is weakening. (This is apparent when water droplets no longer bead up
on the fabric.)
If the poles are exposed to salt or salt water, rinse them in fresh water and
allow them to dry before storing. (While aluminum does not rust, it can
become brittle through unseen corrosion over time.)
Lubricating the Poles
Occasionally apply a light coating of a silicone-based lubricant like 303TM
protectant to the tent pole connections. If the poles are used extensively
in marine environments, treat them more frequently.
Storing your Tent
Dry the tent and poles completely before storage to avoid mildew or
hidden pole corrosion. Store in a cool, dry place out of direct light.
Mildewed tents can be cleaned as described above, but there is no way to
remove the dark stains without damaging the fabric. Mildew will probably
take some time to affect the waterproof coatings, so the tent should still
be usable.
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REPAIRING YOUR TENT
Fabric Tears
Watertight repairs to rips can be made with seam sealant such as McNett
FreesoleTM, AquasealTM, or Seam Grip®. For tears shorter than about 1.5cm
(1/2in.), apply duct tape to one side and sealant to the other. On longer
tears, apply duct tape to one side of the tear and, on the other side,
a patch of no-see-um netting that extends about 6-12mm (1/4-1/2in.)
beyond each edge of the tear. Use oval or circular patches (rounded
edges are less likely to peel away than sharp corners). Cover the patch
thoroughly in sealant. Once the sealant is completely dry, the duct tape
can be removed from small and large repairs alike.
For longer trips, we recommend taking an expedition sewing kit and extra
nylon, webbing, a spare pole section, and narrow-diameter (2.5mm) tent
pole shockcord. Coghlan’s Seam Saturant or the like will prevent wicking
through a tent fly via seams or webbing.
Fixing a Pole in the Field
Slip the pole repair sleeve over one pole end. Slide the sleeve along
until it is centred over the break in the pole, then wrap it into place with
duct tape. Be careful not to damage the tent fabrics when removing the
damaged pole.
Replacing a Broken Pole Section
The MEC Grip-TipTM pole tips are press-fitted into place. Carefully tug out
the pole end tip nearest to the broken section. Being mindful of how
to retie it later, untie the end tip. Slide pole sections off the cord until
you reach the damaged section. Remove the broken piece, being careful
not to damage the shockcord. Thread on a new section of appropriate
length and diameter, followed by the other sections, then re-tie the end
tip knot.
Zippers
A worn slider is the cause of most zipper problems. An occasional
application of 303 Protectant or a silicone-based lubricant will help reduce
wear. Grit accelerates slider wear. Keep zippers clean by rinsing them
under water after use in windy/sandy environments. Sometimes, carefully
squeezing the top ends of the slider with a pair of pliers will restore some
life. If an inner door slider fails, run it as far as possible toward one end
of the zipper, and use only the other slider for the duration of the trip. A
sewing repair shop can replace inoperable sliders.
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