Mec FUNHOUSE 6 Installation and operation manual

1
FUNHOUSE 6
This booklet tells you how to prepare, assemble, and maintain your
new tent; please keep it for future reference. Set up your tent at
home before your first trip; this will allow you to inspect it for any
manufacturing defects, check that all parts are present, and learn the
assembly procedure with minimal stress on the tent and on you.
FUNHOUSE 6 Height inside 1.86m
1.98m
3.05m 1.7m
3.05m
Your Funhouse 6
tent package includes:
Tent body
Tent fly
four poles
Tent pegs, hammer, and nylon guylines
Pole repair sleeve
Tent sack and pole sack

2
SEAM SEALING
The seams of your tent have been waterproof taped on all exposed seams.
However, it is impossible to factory-seal stitch lines around windows and
doors. For maximum weatherproof performance, we suggest you treat
these seams with a quality after-market polyurethane sealer such as
McNett Seam Grip®. It is not necessary to apply the sealer to the factory-
sealed seams.
Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling sealant vapours. For
complete sealing, evenly apply only the minimum required amount of
sealant into needle holes, thread, and fabric joints. Allow to dry and cure
overnight. Before packing the tent for the first time, dust newly sealed
areas with talcum powder or spray them with 303TM Protectant; freshly
cured sealer can bond to itself even when dry. You may need to reapply
seam sealer to high-wear areas if you use your tent frequently.
SITE PREPARATION
Remove sharp objects that might puncture the tent floor.
A ground sheet beneath the tent is not necessary for waterproofness, but
it will reduce long-term wear on the tent floor. A ground sheet should be
cut or folded smaller than the tent floor to prevent water pooling between
the floor and the ground sheet.

3
SET-UP
A note about shock-corded poles
Shockcord (bungee cord) is meant to keep pole sections in the proper
order—not as an automatic assembly mechanism for poles. Do not hold
one section while whipping the rest of the pole back and forth, or toss the
poles into the air; either procedure excessively stresses the pole joints and
shockcord. Fit poles together section by section, making sure that each
piece slides completely into the next. Forcing an improperly assembled
pole into place can damage the pole and/or the tent body and fly.
Assembling the Tent
1 Assemble all poles carefully as described in the previous paragraph.
You will have four poles: two equal-length angled ones, one shorter
angled one, and one straight one.
2 Lay the inner tent out flat, with the mesh panels on top.
In windy conditions, you may wish to peg out the corners before
proceeding.
3 Push (do not pull) each of the longest poles through the mesh pole
sleeves diagonally across the top of the tent body. Starting with the
yellow-trimmed pole sleeve, push one of the poles to the corner with the
yellow-ribboned pole clips. Push the second pole to the corner with the
black-ribboned pole clips. The poles should cross in an X at the middle
of the tent.
4 To raise the tent, insert the wire pins at each tent corner into the bottoms
of the poles.
5Attach the clips to the poles.
Attaching the Fly
1 Underneath each of the long sides of the tent fly is a webbing pocket.
Fit the ends of the straight pole into these pockets, and fasten the
hook-and-loop attachment at the centre of the fly around the pole.
2 With the straight pole on the underside, drape the fly over the top of the
tent. The straight pole should be across the tent’s highest point, running
from window side to window side. Ensure that the mesh vestibule is at the
end of the tent body where the mesh pole sleeves are.
3 Attach the hooks at the corners of the tent fly to the rings on the
tent body.

4
Rigging the vestibules
1 Run the shortest angled pole through the pole sleeve across the top of
the mesh vestibule. Insert the second wire pins at the front tent corners
into the ends of this pole. Attach the pole clips.
2 On the underside of the fly at each tent corner are two or three hook-
and-loop pole attachments. Where the poles are clipped to the tent, wrap
these attachments directly around the pole. Where the poles run through
mesh sleeves, fasten the attachments to the hook-and-loop panels on
the sleeves. Note that at the bottom ends of the sleeved poles are bug
protector panels. Fasten these panels into place.
3Peg out the ground loops at the front corners of the vestibule to pull it
into shape.
4 Lay the skirting along the bottom edges towards the inside of the
mesh vestibule. Laying the skirting out flat and wide will block insects
most effectively. The skirting can be anchored in place by rocks, stuff
sacks, etc.
5 Peg out the back (non-mesh) vestibule and tie it back if desired. Note that
the vestibule has peg loops on either side of the door zippers. By staking
out one loop or the other, you can make the door side-opening or centre-
opening to adapt it to the prevailing wind or local landscape features.
The centre panel of the back vestibule can also be rigged as a porch roof.
Most users prefer to save weight and cost by improvising porch poles out
of from dead wood, paddles, lines running to trees, etc. For this reason,
the tent does not come with porch poles; for those who prefer maximum
convenience (and don’t mind a bit of extra weight and bulk), one or two
optional MEC Adjustable Tarp Poles will work well.
If rigging this panel as a rain roof, do not leave flat or baggy surfaces
where water can pool. Rig the panel so it slopes away from the tent, like a
cap brim. You can also rig it to slope towards the tent and water so drain
off to the sides.
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Rigging for maximum wind stability
1If you have not already done so, peg out the corners of the tent.
2If desired, peg out the ground loops along the tent sides.
3We strongly recommend you peg out the four guyline anchor points
using the lines supplied. The guyline anchor points are the triangular flaps
at the back corners and the mesh vestibule corners. Adjust the guylines
so that they are taut, but not so tight that the tent fabric puckers. The
guypoints should counter-balance one another for maximum stability and
minimum stress on the tent. The guylines may need to be tightened or
loosened as the tent fabric stretches or shrinks with dampness or dryness.
Important Note: Use only the triangular anchor points for attaching
guylines. The regular loops on the tent fly are intended only for holding
the toggles when rolling up panels for access or ventilation. Attaching
guylines to these loops can damage the loops and/or the tent fly.
Ventilating the Tent
Proper ventilation is the key to minimizing condensation in any tent.
Keep fabric doors open as widely as the prevailing weather permits. If
bugs or drafts aren’t a problem, leave mesh doors open too. Crack each
door open from the top down; warm, moist air rises and will escape
through high openings. If the design of your tent allows, keep openings
at both ends or both sides of the tent to allow air to flow through for best
ventilation. On very hot nights, when you are confident there will be no
rain or dewfall, you can leave the flysheet off and use the inner tent alone
as a “bug tent.”
Disassembling the Tent
When taking down the tent, do not stress the poles and fabrics. First,
disconnect guylines and release the tension from the tent. Next, release all
the poles. If your tent has pole sleeves, push the poles out of the sleeves
instead of pulling them out. To minimize the stress on the bungee cord in
the poles and to speed disassembly, fold each pole in half first, and then
fold down towards the outsides, two sections at a time.
Packing the Tent
If possible, fold and roll the tent rather than stuffing it into its sack—rolling
makes a smaller package, and causes fewer creases in the polyurethane
coating. The tent and poles may be carried separately for easier packing
or load sharing.
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6
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Protecting the Tent
Ultraviolet damage is the single largest hazard your tent faces in its
lifetime. Fabrics should not be exposed to sunlight for extended periods
of time; this will eventually result in colour fading and fabric failure. The
uncoated fabrics of the tent canopy are most susceptible to damage from
UV and should be covered by the more durable fly. If extended exposure
is unavoidable, cover the tent with a tarp or a sheet of nylon.
Lighting your Tent
Using a candle lantern in a tent carries definite risks. Never leave a candle
lantern burning unattended; always watch for fire hazard from overheating
fabrics or spilling wax. Spilling wax can be dangerous, particularly to eyes
and other sensitive areas. It is your responsibility to use candle lanterns
wisely and with extreme caution: we do not endorse the use of any
flame or heat source in a tent. Cooking in a tent is strongly discouraged
because of fire hazards and carbon monoxide inhalation risks. Unlike
campfire smoke and other fumes, which cause you to gasp for air, carbon
monoxide can render you unconscious without any warning.
Food in Tents
Mop up spills promptly with water. Many foods, particularly acidic ones
like fruit or juices, can weaken synthetic fabrics over time. In any case it is
best to eat and store food away from a tent to avoid attracting animals.
Cleaning
Clean the tent by hand while it is set up, using a sponge, a mild non-
detergent soap, and warm water. Rinse thoroughly. Do not dry clean,
machine wash, or machine dry. Stubborn stains like tar can be left in place
and dusted with talcum powder to prevent transfer to other areas of the
tent in storage. After cleaning, a spray-on water repellent designed for
synthetic fabrics may be applied to the flysheet if surface water repellency
is weakening. (This is apparent when water droplets no longer bead up
on the fabric.)
If the poles are exposed to salt or salt water, rinse them in fresh water and
allow them to dry before storing. (While aluminum does not rust, it can
become brittle through unseen corrosion over time.)
Lubricating the Poles
Occasionally apply a light coating of a silicone-based lubricant like 303TM
Protectant to the tent pole connections. If the poles are used extensively
in marine environments, treat them more frequently.
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7
Storing your Tent
Dry the tent and poles completely before storage to avoid mildew or
hidden pole corrosion. Store in a cool, dry place out of direct light.
Mildewed tents can be cleaned as described above, but there is no way to
remove the dark stains without damaging the fabric. Mildew will probably
take some time to affect the waterproof coatings, so the tent should still
be usable.
REPAIRING YOUR TENT
Fabric Tears
Watertight repairs to rips can be made with seam sealant such as McNett
FreesoleTM, AquasealTM, or Seam Grip®. For tears shorter than 1.5cm
(1/2in.), apply duct tape to one side and sealant to the other. On longer
tears, apply duct tape to one side and a patch of no-see-um netting to the
other. Ensure the netting extends 6-12mm (1/4-1/2in.) beyond the edges
of the tear. Use oval or circular patches (rounded edges are less likely to
peel away than sharp corners). Cover the patch thoroughly in sealant.
When the sealant is completely dry, remove the duct tape.
For longer trips, we recommend taking an expedition sewing kit and extra
nylon, webbing, a spare pole section, and narrow-diameter (2.5mm) tent
pole shockcord. Coghlan’s Seam Saturant or the like will prevent wicking
through a tent fly via seams or webbing.
Fixing a Pole in the Field
Slip the pole repair sleeve over one pole end. Slide the sleeve along
until it is centred over the break in the pole, then wrap it into place with
duct tape. Be careful not to damage the tent fabrics when removing the
damaged pole.
Zippers
A worn slider is the cause of most zipper problems. An occasional
application of 303TM Protectant or a silicone-based lubricant will help
reduce wear. Grit accelerates slider wear. Keep zippers clean by rinsing
them under water after use in windy/sandy environments. Sometimes,
carefully squeezing the top ends of the slider with a pair of pliers will
restore some life. If an inner door slider fails, run it as far as possible toward
one end of the zipper, and use only the other slider for the duration of the
trip. A sewing repair shop can replace inoperable sliders.
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