Metcalfe PN138 N GAUGE WAYSIDE STATION KIT User manual

1 x PRINTED SHEET - Components for all buildings.
1 x PLAIN GREY CARD X- Interior strengthening parts.
1 x PLAIN GREY CARD Y- Interior strengthening parts.
1 x LASER-CUT CARD - Canopy edging and brackets.
1 x GLAZING SHEET.
2 x INSTRUCTION SHEETS.
1 x Ridge Tile Sheet.
1 x Chimney pots, posters and extra doors sheet
PN138 N GAUGE
WAYSIDE STATION KIT
INSTRUCTION SHEET 1
To make the
nozzle smaller,
put a piece of
wire from a
medium size
paper clip or a
large pin inside.
Although the 20ml. tubes of UHU have narrow nozzles, they
are still a bit too big
If using the glue frequently, it is not necessary to keep
replacing the pin in the nozzle. Simply place the tube
upright in an empty cup when not in use.
Then with a pair of pliers
nip one side of the nozzle
tightly, so that it squeezes
the soft metal around
the pin.
Keep the pin in the nozzle
when not in use to stop
it from blocking up.
UHU GLUE TUBES
To construct this kit you will need the following:
1. A Modellers knife.
2. A pair of sharp pointed scissors.
3. A steel ruler.
4. Glue - UHU Clear Adhesive is our favourite.
5. A cutting surface - a sheet of card or a cutting mat.
6. Fine point tweezers to hold the smaller components.
7. Water colour paints and a very fine brush, for
painting the edges and corners (optional).
READ THROUGH ALL THE
INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU START.
GETTING STARTED
CHECK LIST
This kit pack should contain the following:
The awnings and brackets have been laser cut for finer detail
and are contained on a separate cream coloured sheet.
THESE ARE BEST LEFT ALONE ON THIS SHEET UNTIL
YOU HAVE BUILT THE MAIN BODY OF THE KIT.
The diagram (Fig. 15.) show the lines that you will need
to cut to release the components from the sheet.
PLEASE NOTE: Don’t throw anything away. Keep all offcuts
and waste card in a box until the kit is finished, just in case
you can’t find anything. The chances are that it will be there.
PLAIN GREY CARD COMPONENTS.
These thick card pieces are used within the kit to strengthen
and thicken parts of the kit. The dotted lines indicate where
you need to cut to release from base sheet.
There are two sheets of card, marked top corner and
2
1
1
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12 13
14 15
16
8
10
SHEET X.
1. Building B roof & canopy support.
2. Building A inner floor.
3. Building B canopy supports x 2.
4. Building A gable inner wall spacers x 2.
5. Building A roof & canopy supports x 2.
6. Platform steps x 7
SHEET Y.
7. Small canopy beams x 2
8. Building C roof & canopy supports x 2.
9. Building C gable wall spacer.
10. Building B gable inner wall spacers x 2.
11. Building B inner floor thickener.
12. 3 x Large chimney stack inner formers.
13. Building C inner gable end wall.
14. Building B inner gable end wall.
15/16 Canopy lower roof units.
To stop the components from falling off the sheets, they
are held secure with scorelines. These are cuts that only
go about 75% of the way through the card.
To release them simply run the point of your knife along
the scorelines and they will come seamlessly away.
These scorelines are indicated with blue arrows:
WARNING, Cut with care using a knife that is not too
sharp, this will reduce the risk of the blade running out
of the score and cutting the kit components.
1EXTRACTING COMPONENTS FROM SHEETS.
2MAKE YOUR ‘BUILDERS YARD’.
This is an area kept away from your working surface, where
you store ALL components extracted from the base sheets
until needed.
Use a piece of thick card or a tray to make your builders yard.
LASER CUT SHEET.
Your WORKING area should have a clean flat surface, and
should only contain the kit parts you are actually working on.
EVERYTHING ELSE SHOULD BE KEPT NEATLY ARRANGED
IN THE BUILDERSYARD, UNTIL NEEDED.

Start by cutting out all the
clear plastic window
sections. Cut along the
thin white lines that
mark them out.
Place on a dark piece of
card so you can see them.
This is a fiddly bit, so best to get it over with now.
Start by folding the two
side sections of the bay
window fully back to
loosen the scorelines.
Fold down the top tab
and fix the the side
windows to it.
Fit the small pink tab
inside the bottom of the
bay window.
Allow the glue to set fully before fitting the glazing.
Fig. 1.
START WITH THE WINDOWS. Fix each of the glazing
sheets to the back of their
corresponding inner
window frames with the
mat printed side facing
through the openings. Inner
window
frame.
Thin strips of glue.
Fix each of the glazing
sheets to the back of their
corresponding inner
window frames with the
mat printed side facing
through the openings.
Glazing.
NOTE: Only do the flat windows.
Bay windows are dealt with in Fig.2.
ALSO NOTE; The two toilet windows fit
directly onto the openings in the side walls
FIT THEM NOW.
Place the windows
back in your
builders yard
until needed.
Fig. 2.
BAY WINDOWS.
Fig. 3.
DOORWAYS.
Score the glazing
along the dotted
lines very lightly
with the point
of a sharp knife.
GLAZING.
There are four doorways in the main building. They all fit
together in the same way
Glue each to the back of the other so all outer edges are flush.
The toilet door has only one frame.
Place all the completed door units in builders yard until needed.
Fig. 4.
LARGE CHIMNEY STACK.
Glue the three plain
grey chimney stack
inner formers together
to form a solid block.
(No 12 on Grey Sheet)
Wrap the large
chimney stack
around the block
tightly so the
ends meet.
Stand on a flat
surface and make
sure all edges are
pressed down
flat against it. Place in builders
yard until needed.
This is another little job to get out of the way before
you get stuck into making the main buildings.
Fig. 5.
BUILDING ‘A’.
Like so!
Carefully bend
the scorelines to form the same
shape as the bay window frame.
Fit inside bay with tiny spots of glue.
Tab.
Door.
Medium.
Large.
Large.
Door frame
Glue the medium door frame
to the back of the large. Then
fix the door to back of medium
frame to give a stepped
relief look like this.
Place in builders yard
until needed.
Fold up end tab.
Building ‘A’ folds around the grey inner floor
(No. 2 on Grey Sheet). The two halves of the
back wall meet butt ended together fixed to
the vertical tab. Keep the floor flat on base
flush with wall bottoms.
Building should look
like this with the
small floor tab
sticking out through
the slot of the back
wall.
Small floor tab.

Fig. 6.
BUILDING ‘A’ WINDOWS GABLES & BEAMS.
Fit the three windows so they are
sitting down on the base card, then
slide them into position.
Fit the gable windows first. Fold
and glue.
The thick gable walls are
now fixed to the inside of
the end walls. Keep flush
with wall tops.
Fold the two grey spacers in half to make each
one double thickness (No 4 on Grey Sheet)
marked with a . Then fix each one to the
back of the two inner gable walls. The two grey roof supports fold
in half then sit inside the building
Press firmly
down into the
slots with canopy
support beams sticking out.
Back edge sits
on inner grey tab.
Finally, fit the inner grey gable
wall for fixing building ‘B’
(No. 14 on Grey Sheet)
Fit over the two joining
walls on building ‘A’
Make sure top edges
are flush.
Fig. 7.
BUILDING ‘B’.
To make the base card a little more substantial
There is a plain grey piece that fits on part of the
base card (No 11. on Grey Sheet).
Fit edges
flush.
Fold walls around the base
card and fix. Stand on a
flat surface making
sure that wall bottoms
are standing on
work surface with
the floor fixed inside
and also flat to
work surface.
Fold the three scores
around on chimney to
loosen them up.
Hold steady
until fast. When fast, fit building ‘B’
to the grey inner wall on
building ‘A’
Stand on flat surface
when fitting. When fast, fit the
two doors and the window.
Window fits
at this side.
Bay window fits
over this opening later.
Bay window fits
over this opening later.
Fix the two gable wall inner spacers
marked II to the back of the printed
inner wall.
Fit to wall with
top edges all flush.
Fix together the two
matching grey card
roof supports (marked
1 and 3 on grey card X)
then fit into the slots
in the wall tops.
Push the longer canopy
support through the hole
under the chimney.
Fold the chimney stack
around and fit into the
recessed part of the
inner support.
Finish off with the inner gable
wall with the small tab.
Fold over the tab and fix, then
fit the gable to the end of
building ‘B’ with the tab
fitting into the slot in the wall.
Tab.

c Copyright 2012 Metcalfe Models and Toys Ltd. Bell Busk, Skipton, N. Yorkshire BD23 4DU.
CONTINUED ON SHEET 2
Fig. 8.
BUILDING ‘C’.
Carefully fold the walls
around the small base
card and fix as shown.
Keep the base flat on
your work surface with all
bottom edges of walls flush.
Hold firmly like this
till the glue sets hard.
Fix the building to the
end of building ‘B’.
When the building is fast,
carefully fit the two door
sections that you made earlier.
Glue the two grey inner gable spacers marked
together then attach the back of the inner
gable wall, keep all edges flush. Fix to gable wall
in same way as with other gables.
Fit two grey roof supports
together then fit into
building ‘C’ with
long canopy support
sticking out as shown
so that the three
supports on each side
of the building all line up
with each other.
Long canopy
support.
Three canopy
support beams
should all line up.
Fig. 9.
TOILET BUILDING.
The most important bit if you’ve had a few
before waiting for a train !
Fold the side walls
around and fit to
the base as with
the other buildings.
Fit the door when fast.
Fit toilet building
to the gable wall
of building ‘C’
Then fit the
small inner roof.
This edge flush
to corner of building
Cut away
section at
opposite side.
ROOF SECTIONS.
Fig. 10.
CANOPY ROOF.
Fig. 11.
Fit the two grey lower roof units first.
They both fit up against the walls sitting on the
8 support beams.
Tiny spots of glue placed
on tops of beams
is all that you
need.
Ends of beams should
be flush to edge of
grey roof.
Start with building ‘A’ roof.
The roofs sit down in between
the wall tops resting in the
grey inner roof supports.
Hold down till fast.
Follow on with the larger roof for building ‘B’
then ‘C’ On the underside
of the angled roof,
place tiny spots of
glue along the edge
to fix it on top of
roof ‘A’.

PN138 N GAUGE
WAYSIDE STATION
INSTRUCTION SHEET 2
PRINTED CANOPY ROOF.
Fig. 12.
Attach the four roof sections starting with the longest front roof,
followed by the two end units then the rear roof.
Glue the grey card all over to stop the top sheets curling up at edges.
Rear canopy roof
The outer edges of the printed roof sections
should be overhanging past the edges of the
plain grey card by about 2mm.
UNDERNEATH THE CANOPY.
Fig. 13.
Turn building over and stand on work surface.
On Grey card item no. 7
there are two tiny pieces
of card shaped like this.
Fold in half and
clean up any
untidy edges,
then fix to underside of
canopy and againts the
building ‘A’ gable wall.
Fit with folded edge
facing away from canopy.
Slightly sloping edge fits
to underside of canopy.
Fit the brackets next.
PLEASE NOTE: There are two brackets that are
slightly smaller that the rest. These fit to the two
shortest canopy supports at the rear of the building
CHECK BEFORE FITTING.
Canopy.
Fit the other 8
larger brackets
(there is an extra
just in case!).
CANOPY EDGING.
Fig. 14.
Starting with the end
strips, (which are the two
shorter ones) fit them so
they sit in the underside
of the printed overhanging
part of the canopy.
Fix up against the grey lower
canopy and the beam ends.
Beam.
Grey. Printed.
Edging
Fit the end edging strip
so the ends line up with
grey card. Repeat with
other end of building,
then fit the short side
piece shown above.
Finally fit the long front
edging strip and the rear
edging strip.
Note: You can cover the joints
on the corners of the canopy
using the grey roof ridge tile strips.

Curl strip
slightly
first.
Roll up tight
then unroll
the end enough
to smear with
a little glue
then roll
back up
and hold
tight until
fast.
Fig. 18.
CHIMNEY POTS.
Cut out the terracotta coloured strips below
and roll tightly around a nail or drill bit (aprox.
4mm. dia.)
Small.
Large.
Chimney
top
stones.
Pot. When fast, attach the 
chimney pots
and set to one side to 
dry thoroughly.
Fig. 17.
If you are using our PN135 platform kit to stand your station on
You will need a way to get your little people up to platform height from
street level. So we have included a small ramp-cum steps structure.
Fit the tarmac top
with the yellow tabbed end
sitting on the top step.
Then fit the grey inner wall
followed with the inner printed wall.
Finally, top off with the capping
stone strip. Cut and shape
to fit.
PLATFORM RAMP/STEPS. There are 7 grey strips
(marked 6 on grey card)
Glue one on top of the
other with back and side
edges flush
Edges flush.
Glue the steps on to the outer wall.
Line up the edge of the bottom step
with the wall end.
Fold up
small tab.
CAPPING STONES.
Fig. 15.
Each gable wall is topped off with a capping stone strip.
Fit so they overhang equally along each side.
Fit the ridge tiles
before capping stones
Each wall has
its own capping
stone strip.
Check before
fitting.
Alternative coloured doors and posters.
Fix doors to card and use instead, if you
require GWR. colours
FIT THE BAY WINDOWS.
Fig. 16.
The two bay window units simply fit up to the
walls covering the openings in buildings ‘A’ & ‘B’.
c Copyright 2012 Metcalfe Models and Toys Ltd. Bell Busk, Skipton, N. Yorkshire BD23 4DU.
Glue the two chimney top stones
together as shown with each one centred
on the one below.
cut
cut
cut
cut