Micron Wings Soarer User manual

Your kit contains the following items
Pre- cut parts
Carbon rod
Ballast weight
Sandpaper sheets
Covering sheets
Control line linkage parts
Plan sheet
The Soarer is a high quality kit for the intermediate
to advanced builder. It features a tow line hook
which allows you to launch the glider with a tow
line and then after the tow line detaches, have the
rudder automatically deflect to put the glider into
a circular flight path as it glides back down.
It not only features a built up wing airframe but
also a built up tailplane with an airfoil section.
Carbon bracing is used extensively to give
exceptional strength while retaining its light
weight.
Whether set up for hand launching or using a tow
line, the Soarer will give exceptional gliding
performance. Setting this glider up for towline
operation will require a degree of skill and testing.
Note: The glider specification “P1A-1” is a
manufacturer’s specification only and does not
denote the glider as being officially approved for
any particular gliding competition specification.
Additional Items You May Need
* Epoxy Glue
* Wood Glue
* Masking Tape
* Sanding Block
* Cling Wrap
* Hobby Knife
* Pins
* BlueTack
* Nail File

Refer to these pages as you follow this manual. When you see a part written in bold in the build instructions below,
refer back to these pages to see which part it is. Leave the parts in the sheets until they are needed.
Wings Leading Edge Spars
Wings Inner Ribs
Tailplane Trailing Edge Spar
Tailplane Main Spar
Tailplane Main Ribs
Tailplane Half Ribs
Tailplane Boxing
Wings Trailing Edge Spars
Fuselage Inner Former
Wings Main Spars
Wings Inner Half Ribs
Wings Outer Half Ribs
Wings Outer Ribs
Wing Spar Joiners
WingTips Trailing Edge Spars
Spars
WingTips Leading Edge Spars
WingTips Main Spars
WingTips Ribs
WingTips Half Ribs
Wings Root Cornice
Wings Root Boxing
Wings Main Spars Hardwood Capping
WingTips Main Spars Hardwood Capping
WingsTip Cornice
Fuselage Outer Formers
Tailplane Mounts
Fuselage Inner Former
Wing Root Joiners

Wing Tip Capping Blocks
Tailplane Main Spar Capping Strip
(Flat - 2mm x 0.2mm x 185mm)
Tailplane Leading Edge Spar
(Round - 1mm x 185mm long)
Carbon Parts
Tailplane Tip Capping Blocks
Ballast Weights
Towline Hook
Rudder Control Line
Rudder Hinges
Rudder Deflection Bands
Rudder Horn
Towline Hook
Forward Hard Stop
Towline Hook Spacers
WingsTip Main Spar Carbon Capping Strips (flat 3mm wide)
WingsMain Spar Carbon
Capping Strips (Flat 3mm wide)
Wing Attachment Spars
Carbon Tail Boom
NOTE: Rudder Control Line Hole
Towline Hook Pivot
Towline Hook Rear Hard Stop

Getting Started
For best results you will need a flat surface to work on.
It’s preferable to have a flat piece of corkboard or
sheet of Depron foam so you will be able to pin parts
down if needed. You may need to use an iron to flatten
the plan sheet supplied with the kit. Tape it down to
the work surface on the corners and edges to keep it
flat. This plan will be used as a guide for placement of
the ribs during the build process.
It’s a good idea to put a layer of cling wrap over the
plan sheet. It’s easier to get your wing frame parts
unstuck from the cling wrap than from paper. Tape the
cling wrap sheet to the work surface ensuring it is
completely flat and free from wrinkles.
Tailplane Construction
Lay the tailplane parts out on the plan and check you
have all the correct parts. The Tailplane Main Spar
Capping Strip is the thinnest of all the flat carbon
strips (just 2mm wide). Also, the Tailplane Leading
Edge is a carbon rod 1mm in diameter. Lay all the
pieces out and check they align with the supplied plan.
First glue all the Tailplane Main Ribs and Taliplane
Half Ribs to the Tailplane Main Spar and then glue
in place the Tailplane Tailing Edge Spar.
Start at one end and press it downward to slide each
rib tail into the slots. Don’t press it in from the back.
With these fine wooden parts,use cross pinning to hold
fine pieces of wood to the surface, instead of pushing
the pin through the wood itself.

Carefully remove the tailplane from the board and hold
the Tailplane Leading Edge in place. Trim back any
ribs which protrude too far. Then apply glue to the
leading edge of the ribs and glue the Tailplane
Leading Edge in place.
Also trim the Tailplane Main Spar capping Strip as
needed and glue it in place on top of the Tailplane
Main Spar.
Glue the Tailplane Tip Capping Blocks in place as
shown on the plan with the thicker part toward the
trailing edge. These will be trimmed and sanded down
later.
Sand either side of the Tailplane Boxing pieces to
allow them to fit neatly in-between the two centre ribs.
Trim the leading edge piece as shown and glue in
place.
The tailplane section is now finished except for the
sanding of the Tailplane Tip Capping Blocks which
will be done later when the tailplane is fully dried.
Wing Construction
Lay the wing parts out on the plan and check you have
all the parts you need.
Note that the wings are made from both soft balsa and
harder Paulownia wood, with the ribs which are made
from the harder Paulownia wood being used on the
part of the wing closest the fuselage for strength.
The wings are a designed with under camber so when you place them on the plan only the leading edge
and trailing edge will rest on the surface.

When building the wings, swap from one to the other
to allow parts to dry before moving on to the next step.
Also take your time with the building of the wings as
this is the most challenging part of the build process
and the most crucial.
Start with the second ribs in from the end and glue
them in place on the Wings Main Spars. Place on a
flat surface and move the ribs while the glue is still wet
to get the whole frame sitting evenly on the four points.
Allow to completely dry before continuing as this straight frame will now be used as a guide when gluing
the other ribs in place.
Glue each Wing Inner Rib and Wing Outer Rib in
place. Glue one at a time and set the frame down on
the flat surface to adjust the rib so it sits flat. Swap
from one wing to another to give time to dry while
building.
Next glue the Wing Spar Joiners in place. The larger
one goes on the Leading Edge side and the thinner
one goes on the trailing edge side.
Make sure the Wing Spar Joiners are flush with the
bottom of the Wing Main Spar.
Then glue in place the last Wing Outer Rib.
Continue to glue in place the Wings Inner Half Ribs
And the Wings Outer Half Ribs. Once again gluing one
at a time and placing the frame on a flat surface and
adjusting the half rib to ensure it lines up correctly with
the others.
Glue the Wings Trailing Edge Spars in place. Put
some glue in each slot and press down from the top to
slip the ribs into the slots.

Once the Wings Trailing Edge Spars are glued on,
glue in place the Wings Leading Edge Spars.
Wing Tips Construction
Lay the wing tips parts out and check that you know
where they all fit. The ribs are in order from largest to
smallest.
As with the wing construction, first start with the
second ribs in as shown here and glue them in place.
Then set the frame on a flat surface and ensure all
four points sit flat on the surface. Allow to dry before
proceeding because these two ribs will be used to
align all the others.
Work on both wing tips at the same time swapping
from one to the other to allow for drying.
Note: Make sure you build each wing tip as per the plan so that you don’t have two the same!
Continue to glue in all the WingTip Ribs and Wing
Tip Half Ribs, looking along the leading edge to
ensure they are all lined up straight.
Once the ribs are dry, glue in place the WingTip
Trailing Edge Spar.

Place pins next to the frame to hold it in place while
you glue the Wing Tip Leading Edge Spar. You may
need to pin it in place to force it up against all the
rib’s leading edges.
Trim off any parts of the leading edge and trailing
edge spars which protrude.
Glue in place the WingTip Capping Blocks which
will be sanded back later.
It’s now time to attach the wing tips to the main wing.
The WingTip Main Spar slides into the slot created
by the Wing Spar Joiners.
Check that when the wing tips are slotted in to the main wing, both the leading edge spar and trailing edge
spar are long enough to meet up with the main wing. If not then you may need to trim the WingTip Main
Spar and the Wing Spar Joiners.

Glue in place just the WingTip Main Spar and allow
to dry.
Make sure that on the under side of the wing the
WingTip Main Spar is flush with the bottom of the
Wing Spar Joiners.
Next, glue the WingTip Leading Edge Spar and
the WingTip Trailing Edge Spar to the main wing.
You may need to pin the wing frame to a surface to
keep it in place.
Masking tape can also be used to pull the two parts
together for gluing.
Once the wing tips are securely glued to the main
wing, you can glue in place the WingsTip Cornice
pieces
On this piece you will first need to trim the cornice to
make it a bit less than 90 degrees.
Next glue in place the Wings Root Cornice as
shown. You may need to pin them to hold the curve
till they dry.
Glue in place the Wings Root Boxing. You will need
to sand the edges of these pieces a little to get them
to slide in neatly.
Leave a gap here.

Glue in place the Wings Main Spars Hardwood
Capping and the WingsTip Main Spars Hardwood
Capping.
There will be a groove that this capping strip sits
into on the trailing edge side of the main spar.
Just in front of the hardwood capping, glue the
Wings Main Spar Carbon Capping Strips and the
WingsTip Main Spar Carbon Capping Strips in place.
Be sure to trim these to length first.
Use a hobby knife to carve away the balsa of the
capping blocks on the tailplane and wing tips to match
the curvature of the ribs.
Cut them down using the rib’s shape as a guide and
then finish off by hand with sandpaper and round
them off.
Your completed wing tips and tailplane capping should
look like this.
Wings and Tailplane Surface Covering
The kit comes supplied with heat shrinkable covering
sheets. These sheets don’t have an adhesive coating
so you need to glue them to the airframe. It’s
essential that you use a “sticky” glue. Wood glue will
not do the job. We recommend using UHU Por (UHU
Expanded Polystyrene) or a glue stick. However the
UHU will give a much better bond.

Cover the wings and tailplane by applying glue to the
frame’s surfaces. Wait till the glue becomes tacky
and almost dry before stretching the covering sheets
over the frame.
Don’t pull it so tight that it warps or bends the frame
in any way. The covering will shrink quite a bit under
heat from a hair dryer.
When first covered the wings and tailplane surfaces
will look quite wrinkled. Because the covering sheet
isn’t pours allow at least a few hours for the glue to
dry.
Trim around the edge to remove any excess covering.
Also cover the vertical stabiliser and rudder at this
stage.
Use a hair dryer to gently and evenly heat the
covering all over. Start with the hair dryer about
30cm away and move closer as needed to allow the
covering to shrink.
Work a little on one side and then turn over and
work on the other side alternating to tighten both
sides simultaneously. The finished product should
look like this.
Fuselage
The Fuselage Inner Formers have marks on them
to show where to cut out the gaps for the Towline
Hook.
If you are building the model for towline use, you will
need to cut away slots where the marks are.
Very carefully cut away a slot from each Fuselage
Inner Former so that when they are brought
together a gap is formed.
You will need to cut slightly more out of the thicker
former than the thinner one.

Hold the body parts together as shown here just to
check that the Towline Hook has ample room to
swing without rubbing on the sides of the gap.
Glue the two Fuselage Inner Formers together
making sure you glue them so the gap is formed in the
bottom.
Take the right had side Fuselage Outer Former and
glue the Fuselage Inner Formers to it.
Slide in the Carbon Tail Boom to ensure the gap is
adequate but don’t glue the tail boom in place yet.
Use the Wing Attachment Spars to insert and make
sure the holes are not filled with glue.
Glue in place the Wing Root Joiners and insert the
carbon Wing Attachment Spars to make sure the
holes are aligned. Check that the spars run perpendicular
to the Fuselage Outer Former (T shape when viewed
from the end).
Do the same for the left hand side Fuselage Outer
Former and then remove the carbon Wing
Attachment Spars.
Insert the Towline Hook Pivot and use it to align
the Towline Hook Spacers, and glue these in
place on both of the Fuselage Outer Formers.
Don’t glue the Towline Hook Pivot carbon piece yet.

Use araldite (epoxy) to glue in the Carbon Tail Boom.
Use scrap pieces of wood to support the tail boom
and support the fuselage as the glue dries.
No further forward than this line
Tailplane
Use either a pin or micro drill to make holes in the
vertical stabiliser for the Rudder Hinges to be glued
into.
Cut slots into the rudder as well and insert the tabs of
the Rudder Hinges to attach the rudder. Glue these
in place.
Use sandpaper to rough up the surface of the Carbon
Tail Boom to allow the glue to stick to it better. Do
this from the Rudder Control Line Hole all the way
back to the end of the Carbon Tail Boom.
Use BlueTak to hold the airframe vertical and use a
small amount of epoxy glue to attach the vertical
stabiliser. Use some props such as match boxes to
ensure the stabiliser stays straight while it dries.
Fuselage
Vertical Stabiliser Position
Carbon Tail Boom
Angle of Rudder Control
Line Hole
Note: There is a hole in one end for the Rudder
Control Line. This hole must go near where the
vertical stabiliser will attach (toward the back).
It must also be at the angle shown to the left.

After the epoxy glue has dried, add more epoxy glue
to the base of the vertical stabiliser to add additional
strength.
Note: The leading edge of the vertical stabiliser
attaches at the point where the Rudder Control
Line Hole is.
Glue two of the Tailplane Mounts as shown here.
The L shape one will support the leading edge and
the other one toward the trailing edge of the tailplane.
Set the fuselage up in a rig to hold it vertical and
apply a small amount of epoxy to the Tailplane
Mounts and glue them in place.
Setting the tailplane on top and levelling it by
supporting each end will assist in getting the mounts
level. Refer to the next image to see the orientation of
the mounts.
After the mounts have dried, add more epoxy to the
bottom to support the mounts.
Note: Leave 5mm of the tail boom protruding at the
back to hook the rubber band over.
The tailplane attaches as shown here. Put the rubber
band over the tail-boom shaft first and then place the
tailplane on top and stretch the rubber band back and
hook it over the end of the tail boom. The two dips in
the front mount act as guides for the rubber band.
Clearance for rudder to swing.
Hole here

From a piece of scrap wood cut two pegs about 6mm
long.
Make holes in the vertical stabiliser and rudder
angled as shown here and glue the pegs in place.
Attach a micro rubber band to these pegs to deflect
the rudder to one side.
Make sure these pegs are on the opposite side to the
Rudder Control Line Hole.
Feed the Rudder Control Line through the hole in the
Carbon Tail Boom and tape a piece of masking tape
to the end to prevent it being pulled through.
Thread the other end through the hole in the
Towline Hook and twist the end back around the
control line.
Note: Don’t twist more than 1cm of the line as it may
foul on the end of the Carbon Tail Boom.
Insert the Towline Hook Pivot.
Turn the fuselage over and apply some glue to the end
3mm of the Towline Hook Pivot and push and pull it
in and out to work the glue into the hole. Then push
the pivot in flush with the body and allow to dry.
1cm
1 cm

Cut a brace from two pieces of scrap wood and glue
them together. This is used to brace the Towline
Hook Forward Hard Stop.
Glue in place with epoxy glue the Towline Hook
Forward Hard Stop and the wooden brace.
Align them with this edge and scrape off any glue that
squeezes out the gap which will stop the left hand
Fuselage Outer Former from sitting flat.
Also leave about 1mm gap in front of the Towline
Hook which can be adjusted later by adjusting the screw.
Remove the rubber band from the vertical stabiliser.
With the Towline Hook held firmly against the
adjusting screw, centre the rudder and pull the Rudder
Control Line taught through the hole in the Rudder
Horn. Apply epoxy glue to the Rudder Horn to fix the
Rudder Control Line in place. Trim excess with sharp
scissors.
The deflection amount of the rudder is controlled by
how much the Towline Hook can move rearward.
Trim the Towline Hook Rear Hard Stop so it allows
the rudder to move to the limit as shown below and glue
in place.
Check if the tailplane is level.
If it isn’t level, the Tailplane mounts can be sanded
down on one side using a nail file.

A piece of cardboard this shape can be cut from a flat
sheet and taped to the edge of a table to be used as
a balance point test station.
Towline Setup: Set the balance point to be 47mm
from the leading edge of the wing. This is to position
the COG back to a point aft of the towline hook.
When doing this you should also add a 1mm shim
under the leading edge of the horizontal stabiliser.
Throw Glider Setup: Set the balance point to be
44mm from the leading edge of the wing. (no shim
required under the horizontal stabiliser)
Apply tape over the ballast to keep it from falling out.
Leave the left Fuselage Outer Former off, but still
attach the wings.
Add or remove ballast to balance the glider. Once the
glider is balanced, replace the left Fuselage Outer
Former and re-check ready for test flying.
Don’t glue the left Fuselage Outer Former on at this
stage till test flying is completed.
Test glide by launching in a slow gentle fashion at a
slight downward angle.
If setting the glider up for towline use with the
balance point 47mm back from the leading edge, you
will most likely need to add a shim under the leading
edge of the tailplane to achieve a good stable flight
path.
If additional ballast is needed, remove the left wing
and Fuselage Outer Former to add some ballast to
either the front compartment or to the space directly
behind it.

Once test flying is completed and all adjustments
done you may choose to glue on the left Fuselage
Outer Former. However this is not absolutely
necessary, and nor is gluing on the wings, as they will
stay in place without gluing.
You may choose to instead use small screws (not
supplied) to screw on the left Fuselage Outer
Former. This will allow access to the internals later for
adjustments or repairs.
See a test glide video on Youtube - LINK
Tow Line Operation:
Setting up a glider for towline operation can be challenging. The tips below should be a good reference to
get you started.
1. This kit doesn’t come with towline or a hook ring. You will need to supply these yourself.
2. The location of the balance point compared to the towline hook position is very important. For
correct operation the balance point should be slightly behind the towline hook position. This will
give a decent amount of pitch up during towing.
The Soarer’s towline hook position is set, so you must make adjustments by changing the balance point
and moving it further back for towline operation. This in turn may require a shim to be placed under
the leading edge of the horizontal stabiliser to keep the plane level in the glide.
3. Using a towline that is too short will cause the glider to pitch up too soon in the tow, so ensure that
you have at least 20 meters of towline. Have someone hand launch the glider as you tow it.
4. Always tow the glider directly into the wind and ensure the rudder is straight when towing.
Balance Point
Towline Hook Point

5. If the glider veers off to one side you must adjust your towing direction to the same side as the
glider is turning. In the example below the glider has veered off to the left so the person towing the
glider must turn to the left also and head off in the direction of the red arrow.
Most people will tend to go to the opposite side the glider is veering to in an attempt to keep the
glider on track. However this will have the opposite effect and worsen the situation.
Towline
Person towing
the glider
Original direction of tow
Corrected direction of tow
Copyright © MicronWings 2015: All rights reserved.
This manual is for personal use only. No unauthorized copying or digital distributing permitted
without permission from MicronWings.