Micron Wings Falcon User manual

The Falcon is a high quality kit for the intermediate to advanced builder, featuring detailed built up wing
sections. Traditional covering skills are essential to apply the heat activated wing covering sheets. The relatively
thick wings produce a slow flight speed and give beautiful glide performance. With a mixture of balsa, harder
Paulownia wood and carbon fibre spars, this airframe is strong and designed to last yet very light weight.
Your kit contains the following items
* Pre- cut parts
* Sandpaper sheets
* Diagram sheets
* Heat activated Covering
* Base boards for building
Additional Items You May Need
* Cling Wrap
* Flat board (working surface)
* Hobby Knife
* Wood glue
* BlueTack or putty
* Pins
* Nail File
* Masking tape
* Covering iron (or regular household iron)
* Ballast weights

Build Procedure
This kit contains backing boards for you to build your
wings on. These act as a guide for placing the ribs in the
correct position. You will want to first cover these boards
with some cling wrap to stop the wings from sticking to
the boards.
Glue the two inner body formers together.
Glue on one side only of the outer body formers. Leaving
the other side off till the last step will allow you to add
ballast to the front nose cavity. There is a gap left at the
top for adding ballast, however it is much easier to add
the ballast by taking the side body former panel off.
Glue in the tail shaft and support it with a piece of balsa
as it dries. Ensure it is straight.
Glue the carbon main spar capping strips to the bottom of
the main wing spars as shown here.
Note: it is possible to accidently make two right or two
left wings in this process so ensure you are making one
left and one right. The arrow on the end points to the
centre of the wings. Also look at the ribs and the gap on
the bottom and top which the capping strips fit into. This
will act as a guide to show you which side to glue them on.

Do not use wood glue to glue on these carbon strips. It
will not stick to the carbon. We recommend you to use
UHU Por Expanded Polystyrene glue (product link)
This is foam glue, but it dries very tacky and this is
exactly what you need to attach the carbon to the
wooden spar.
Use the backing board and place pins either side to hold
the spar in place. This will allow you to glue in place the
ribs and align them with the markings on the supplied
backing boards.
Note: In the kit there are two ribs and one half ribs spare.
This is in case you break one.
The W0 ribs are the ones which go in the inner most
position on the wings. The dotted line shows where you
must cut the rib and cut out the section to allow it to fit
over the wing joiner (shown here).
Shown here are the two main types of ribs. The W0 ones
for the inner most positions on the wings (one spare is
provided).
The W1 ribs for all the other positions. (one spare
provided)
Start gluing the ribs in place as shown on the plan board.
Ensure you’re not making two right or two left wings.
Next, glue the wings joiner in place and then glue in place
the W0 rib which you cut the section out of.
For the moment just glue in the W0 rib on the wing you
glued the wing joiner to.
On the other wing, just glue in place the front section of
the W0 rib as shown in the second image on the next
page.

You will need to trim off the main spar to allow the two
wings to come together neatly.
Join the two wings together by gluing the wing joiner to
the other wing.
Next, glue in place the trailing section of the W0 rib as
shown here.
Trim off or sand back any carbon strip which protrudes
past the end of the main spar on the wing tips.
Glue together the pairs of wing tip ribs.
Glue in place the wing tip ribs to the end of the main spar
as shown here at this location only and allow to dry.

Next glue in place the trailing edge spar and glue the two
wing’s trailing edge spars together.
Glue in place the leading edge spars and use some
masking tape to pull them in onto the ribs. This spar
continues to meet the wing tip ribs.
Next you will need to fit the wing boxing. The two top
parts shown here will need to be sanded to fit together
flush. Take your time to sand the edges back till you get a
flush fit when placed on top of the wings.
Next glue in place the outer sections. Tape them down
with masking tape on the leading and trailing edges as
well as on the seams to keep them level with each other.
Do the same on the bottom of the wings.

Glue in place the cornice pieces in these positions on the
trailing edge joints of the wings.
Next, sand back the wing boxing to make a very flush
curve on the leading and trailing edge of the wings.
Sanding it down to almost nothing at the edges so it is
perfectly flush with the leading and trailing edge spars.
These pieces are to protect the wing boxing from being
damaged by the rubber bands. Sand down the edges and
score a line on the back up the centre. Then bend the
pieces as shown here.
Glue these in place on the leading and trailing edge of
the wing.
Apply the wing covering film. The film is heat activated
and has adhesive on the back. First peel off the clear
backing sheet. Then tack the film on the 4 corner points.
Work along the edges pulling it straight (not too tight)
and tack it along all edges. Then work over the film with
an iron and tighten the surface.
Note: test the iron temperature on a scrap piece of film
first to get the correct temperature.

Your finished wing should look like this.
The body former which has been left off can be glued on
after balancing the glider. However, you may wish to
secure it with screws (not included) as shown here.
Brace the airframe and glue in place the tailplane parts.
Bend the wing support along the dotted (pre cut) line in
the middle. Then run some glue along both the top and
bottom of the crack and use the angle tool provided to
set the correct angle as it dries.
Glue this in place on the fuselage ensuring that it is level
with an equal amount of dihedral angle on both sides.
Note: you will need to wipe off any glue which has
squeezed out under the mount on the side where the
body former has been left removed.

Glue in place the wing mount pegs, once again making
sure that you wipe away any glue from the area where
the outer body former will attach.
You will also need to sand back the front “hook” on the
wing mount to make it a bit more flat as shown here.
This will allow the wings to sit flat up against the front of
the wings mount.
You will need to add ballast to the front cavity. You may
wish to use solder as shown here, or simply use sinkers.
You may wish to drip some solder into water to make
small balls of solder to use as additional ballast for fine
tuning the balance.
Solder ballast.
The point of balance is marked on the body formers
(circle with a cross in it ). The location should be 47mm
back from the leading edge of the wing. However, we
recommend making the true balance point about 5
millimetres forward of this point for test gliding.

A piece of cardboard this shape can be cut from a
flat sheet and taped to the edge of a table to be
used as a balance point test station.
Balanced!
See a test flight on YouTube.
Copyright © MicronWings 2015: All rights reserved.
This manual is for personal use only. No unauthorized copying or digital distributing permitted
without permission from MicronWings.