Micron Wings Balsa Craft Cub Manual

Cub (Build Instructions)
Before You Start
This airframe has been designed to fit together easily with all components precision drilled and
CNC cut from high quality balsa and paulownia wood. However, you will be working with very
small components, so you will need patience and keen eyesight. We recommend working in a very
well-lit area and taking a break between stages to rest the eyes and hands. Most of all, take your
time, enjoy the building experience and you will be proud of what you have produced in the end.
Specifications
Wingspan: 37.5cm
Length: 27.5cm
Flying Weight: 25 -28grams
Channels: 3 (Rudder Elevator Throttle)
Suggested Receiver: 3 - 4Ch Micro
Airframe Kit
(Included Contents)
* Airframe Surface Parts (balsa)
* Airframe Skeleton (hardwood)
* Carbon pushrods
* Control linkages / heat shrink
* Undercarriage with Wheels
* Fine sand paper
* Decal Stickers
* Geardrive with 7mm Motor
* Propeller
Needed to Complete
* Thick CA Glue or UHU Hart Glue
* Slow-Drying White Model Glue
* Micro Phillips Head Screwdriver
* Hobby Knife
* Ruler
* Pins
* Fine Point Tweezers
* Hobby Masking or Other Tape
* Receiver Transmitter Charger Battery
(see instructions for suggested RC gear setup)

First, refer to this and the following pages to ensure that you have all the required airframe
components in your kit.
Decal Stickers
Airframe Wooden Parts and additional parts

Before starting you may wish to very lightly
sand down all the flat surfaces of the parts if
you want to have a smooth finish. It’s easier
to do this initially, otherwise the ribs will get
in the way of sanding when complete.
When removing parts from the sheets, identify where the cut line is sectioned and cut that part
with a sharp pointed hobby knife. The parts should be able to be removed easily. Never twist or
bend the parts back and forth to remove them as this will damage the parts. Instead cut around
the parts as necessary to easily remove them.
Remove the ribs from the hardwood sheet and glue these in place to the wings.
Note: If you are choosing to put any decals on your wings and in particular on the underside, it
will be difficult to attach them once the ribs are glued in place. You may wish to attach the decals
before you glue the ribs in place. If doing so, glue in all the ribs except the ones which will go
directly over the decals. This will give the wings their curve before attaching the decals. The
decals can then be applied to the curved wing and they will sit flat on the wing surface. Once the
decals are attached, go ahead and glue the final ribs in place. See image below to identify the
leading edge before gluing the ribs in place. Also lay your wings out with the centers together and
ensure you don’t make two left or two right wings by gluing the ribs to the same side of the wing
on each side.
It is a good idea to use Model Masking Tape
to hold down the ribs while they dry.
Product Link
Leading Edge
Example of a decal attached and the rib
glued in place over the top of it.

Make sure you have two opposite wings and not
two left or right wings.
We recommend UHU Hart Glue (Product Link)
Lay out your tail-plane pieces and work out which
side the control horns will need to go on.
You will need to connect up your receiver and
servos if using independent servos and look at
which side the elevator and rudder are on.
Remember that the pushrods will be on the upper
surface of the tail-plane.
The kit comes with a pack of tape hinges as shown
on the right below. These are stuck in place on the
tail surfaces. Don’t stick them where the wood is
joined –stick them over the gaps in the wood. Use
three for the elevator –one on each side toward
the tip and one on the inner part near the hinge.
Use the other two for the vertical stabilizer. Use a
hobby knife to separate the sticker from the paper,
and use tweesers or the blade of a hobby knife to
fit them in place instead of trying to do it with your
fingers.
Glue the vertical stabilizer onto the tail-plane and
set aside to dry. You can use two match stick boxes,
one either side of the vertical stabilizer to hold it
vertical while drying.

Next we will start on the fuselage. Take the two
sides and lay them on a flat surface. Glue the
window surrounds in as shown.
At this stage you can also attach the wheels to
the undercarriage and secure them in place with
some 0.6mm heat shrink. Heat carefully with the
tip of a soldering iron to shrink the heat shrink.
The front body former is shown here. It has
three screw holes for attaching the screws which
hold the undercarriage in place. It is easier to
screw these screws in place now and check the
undercarriage attaches firmly. Use the larger of
the screws in the pack (the smaller ones are not
used –they are supplied because they are used
for the motor mount). The screws are not
screwed all the way in and the undercarriage
slips in behind them.
Start building the fuselage frame. Glue the three pieces in the image on the left below together.
Next glue in part “T” and part “L” (Part “M” is inside part “L” on the sheet – don’t misplace it!)
Finally glue in place part “G” with the motor mount slot in it. Note the orientation with the motor
slot skewed off to the right hand side of the plane. This part also slopes down about 10 degrees.
Three screws
Orientate this piece so the three tongues are toward the front.
These three tongues are glued into the three slots in the front former.
Take note of the orientation.
Part: T
Part: L

From above –the slot for the motor is slightly pointing to the
right. This is to give right thrust to the motor to counter the
torque of the motor which tend to turn the plane to the left.
Next glue in lace part “M” at the front.
Also slightly bend back this part at a small
angle.
Crease the airframes along the dotted lines.
Make sure you have the sides laid out on the
table as shown in the image so they both bend
inward.
Put one side on without glue first and check
that all the slots line up and that it all fits
together okay. Then apply glue to the body
former frame and glue one side on. Glue the
part that was pushed back slightly so it goes
between the windows. We suggest using
Aquadhere glue (White balsa glue) for this part
because it dries slower and gives you time to
work.
Then, glue in place the remaining body
formers as shown here. These body formers
should be angled back about 5 degrees
because the side of the fuselage will bend in to
meet the other side at the back. So you want
these body formers to go straight acros the
body when those two sides are brought
together.
Part: M
Bend back slightly

Finally, using slow drying glue again, glue the
opposite fuselage side on. Use some model
masking tape to hold the sides in place while
this part dries.
At this stage do not glue the two ends of the
fuselage at the back together. A tail skid will
be glued in there later.
Next glue in the supports on either side of the
nose on the inside. These should be flush with
the outer wall of the fuselage. If not then sand
the long straight edges until the curved edge
sits flush with the fuselage sides as shown in
the image.
Glue in place the bottom nose cone piece.
Wet this piece with a few drops of water on
both sides and allow a few minutes for it to
soak in. Then bend it carefully around the
curve and secure it in place with model
masking tape until the wood has dried out and
it holds its shape. Then glue it in place.
Glue the top nose cone in place.
Glue in the front windscreen.
Then glue in the wing brace. There are two
slots in the fuselage sides for it to fit into as
well as two in the fuselage frame. Make sure
the brace sits down into the locating slots and
that it is flush with the top of the fuselage
walls.
Flush with top

Remove the piece of scrap balsa from the front
of the bottom plate.
Glue the bottom plate in place. We recommend
using a slow drying glue to allow time to work.
Also use model masking tape to hold the joints
firmly together.
Glue the tail skid in place as shown.
Glue the top plate in place. We recommend
using a slow drying glue to allow time to work.
Also use model masking tape to hold the joints
firmly together.
Carefully cut out the bottom cover with a fine
hobby knife. Glue the hardwood part on the
right in the image onto the cover. Allow the
two tongues to protrude. These are for locating
and securing the cover in place.
There are two corner marks on the cover to help you align the hardwood piece.
Glue in the magnet into the balsa cover and the other magnet into the hardwood part.
Smear some glue over both sides to help hold these in place.
After this unit has dried gently sand the edges of the cover bay and the cover itself to allow it to
fit easily.

Glue in the hardwood piece with the magnet
attached. But check which way this needs to be
glued in. Remember the magnets need to
attract to close the door.
After allowing to dry well your hatch should fit
like this. You may choose to use some of the
scrap balsa from the kit to add some
strengthening to the inside surface of this hatch.
At this stage you may want to sand down the
corners of the parts you just glued on. They
will be easier to sand down now than after the
wings and tail-plane are attached.
Remember not to sand down the area where
the wings and tail-plane attach.
You are now ready to glue the tail-plane in
place. Ensure it is level.
The gear mounting board can be used to mount the receiver on the top side and the battery on
the bottom side. Place some hook and loop tape on either side of the board as shown below.