Micron Wings Balsa Craft S.E.5a Manual

S.E.5a (Build Instructions)
Specifications
Wingspan: 38 cm
Length: 31cm
Flying Weight: 41
Channels: 3 (Rudder Elevator Throttle)
Suggested Receiver: 3Ch Brick
Motor: 7mm Geared Motor
Airframe Only Kit
(Included Contents)
* Airframe Covering Parts (balsa)
* Airframe Skeleton (hardwood)
* Carbon pushrods
* Wheels and rubber tyre rings
* Fine sand paper
* Control linkages
Complete Kit
(Also contains these items)
* Receiver (brick style 3ch)
* Motor –7mm Dual Geared
* 140mm Propeller
* Motor and receiver pre-wired (no soldering)
Needed to Complete
* Thick CA Glue
* Micro Phillips Head Screwdriver
* Hobby Knife
* Ruler
* Household Pins
* Hobby Masking or Other Tape
* Receiver Transmitter Charger Battery
* Tweezers
* Patience
* Keen Eyesight
* Steady Hands
Battery Options
The Nanotech 300mah 1S battery is
recommended for best balance.
If using the Nanotech 130mah or similar
battery, you will also need to add some
ballast to the nose.

Before You Start
This airframe has been designed to fit together easily with all components precision drilled and
CNC cut from high quality balsa and paulownia wood. However, you will be working with very
small components, so you will need patience and keen eyesight. We recommend working in a very
well lit area and taking a break between stages to rest the eyes and hands. Most of all, take your
time, enjoy the building experience and you will be proud of what you have produced in the end.
First, refer to this and the following page to ensure that you have all the required airframe
components in your kit.

Step 01 –Removing the Parts
Assemble these parts for the first stage of the fuselage. When removing the parts from the sheets
take your time and use a hobby knife instead of pressing them out with your fingers.
Refer to the images below and glue the various parts in place. Make sure that after gluing the
parts on top, you turn it over and clear out the glue from any slots which the bottom parts fit into.
Glue the bulkheads in place first and then the side rails. For the side rails (part I) you may need to
widen the gaps and give the tabs a bit of a trim to allow them to slip in easily. The small part (b)
can be glued in place last. Insert it at an angle from the back to slide it in and then straighten it
up to engage the tabs on the side rails.
Ensure that when you glue in place the front motor mount section
that the motor mount cutout section points to the right –not the
left. This gives a little right thrust on the motor.

The completed top section
Part r is the door hatch. Glue the magnet in place.
Step 02 –The Fuselage Frame
Pointing slightly to right

Use a ruler to press down on the body and bend each side piece at this point slightly
Glue both sides in place but don’t continue over the top yet. Glue in place the bottom surface and
the two side pieces (part H) which go either side of the bottom hatch.

Step 03 –Fuselage Covering
Glue the parts below in place starting with part N –the thinner one. Then glue part M in place.
Finally glue part 5 in place. Be careful that the glue on the rear of part M doesn’t block the two
rectangular holes in the body former where the bottom hatch cover needs to fit.
For the hatch cover before you glue the magnet in place check how it attracts to the other magnet
in the fuselage so you don’t glue the magnet in the wrong way. Finally, you may need to trim or
sand the hatch cover and the holes in the fuselage where the locating tabs fit to allow it to fit
more easily. Also use some scrap balsa to strengthen in by gluing on cross supports against the
grain (the gap in the middle is required to clear the spar in the fuselage)

Step 04 –Base Plate and Engine Cowl
With your finger, dab some water on both sides of the fuselage frame and also on the top cover
sheet (part 1). Allow the water to soak in and the balsa will be come easily bendable, The top
edges of the fuselage sides will need to be trimmed until the meet flush and sit down on the
fuselage formers.
Use hobby masking tape to bend the sides over in place and set somewhere to allow the wood to
dry (not in the sun). At this stage the pieces have not been glued –just allowing to dry in the
correct shape. They will be glued in place later after they dry.
Step 05 –Fitting the Base Plate
For the tail section also give it a slight bend and let it dry. You can tape it in place on the airframe
to dry –It will also need to be trimmed later once the airframe sides are glued in place.
Once the fuselage sides are dry glue them in place and secure with hobby tape while drying.
The top section can now be glued in place. But first, it must be trimmed around the cockpit area
and also down the sides. Either trim ½ millimeter at a time or sand it back so that it fits in place
and sits down against the body formers. Once the fit is correct, glue it in place and tape to hold it
with modeling masking tape.
Step 06 –Fuselage Top Cover

Step 07 –Stabilizer Brace
Glue part 3 in place but when you do, only glue it at the front. Do not glue it on the
bottom to the fuselage sides. Later, the fuselage sides will be cut where the dotted
line is and the slice removed to make way for the tailplane to slide in. For this
reason we do not want this part glued on the bottom.
After it has dried well sand the part down carefully so it matches the fuselage shape.
Assemble the parts listed below to build the engine cowl. Build the frame first noting that the
thinner U shaped piece (Part P) is glued in place first and the thicker similar shaped piece then
goes on the front of that.

Wet the piece of balsa to be bent around the frame on both sides and slowly work it into a curved
shape. Then without gluing, tape it to the frame and let it dry to this shape. After the piece is fully
dry it can be glued in place.
The latches on the bottom can then also be glued in place. You may need to sand or file the gaps
to allow them to slide in easily. Endure that they slide all the way in to be flush as shown in the
image on the right. You may need to sand or trim the hinges and the slots they fit into if they
don’t exactly line up or it is hard to press the cowl into place.
Glue the battery plate in place (Part C). Now gently cut away the section at the back as shown.
Your fuselage should now look like this. Give it a light sand to smooth off any joins.
Note: This part is needed to
keep the cowl straight and
aligned while gluing on the
covering. But it will be cut
away once the cowl has fully
dried.
Note: Rear spar has been cut
away once the cowl assembly
is fully dry. This is required to
allow it so slide in place when
the battery is fitted.