Micron Wings SkyFox User manual

Your kit contains the following items
Pre- cut parts
Propeller rigging and rubber
Sandpaper
Covering sheet
The SkyFox offers great glide performance in a
rubber powered plane due to its built up wing.
With a simple body section and tailplane, this
plane can be built relatively simply.
It also features a unique covering techniques
where the film is supplied as a tube. Virtually no
gluing is required as the film is heated and shrinks
to for a firm fit around the wing.
This plane is a great project for the beginner to
intermediate builder.
Additional Items You May Need
* Foam safe glue
* Wood Glue
* Masking Tape
* Cling Wrap
* Hobby Knife
* Pliers

Refer to these pages as you follow this manual. When you see a part written in bold in the build instructions below,
refer back to these pages to see which part it is. Leave the parts in the sheets until they are needed.
Main Body Former
Wings Main Spars
Wings Leading
Edge Spars
Wings Trailing
Edge Spars
Ribs
Wing Main Spar Joiners
Wing Mounts
Wing Mount Boxing
Wing Tips Capping
Centre Rib
Wing Tip Cornices
Tailplane
Vertical Stabiliser
Wing Boxing
Sheets
Tailplane Mount
Rubber Hook
Propeller Assembly
Propeller
Rubber
Rubber bands
Wing Mount Pegs
Wing Brace

Getting Started
For best results you will need a flat surface to work on.
It’s preferable to have a flat piece of corkboard or
sheet of Depron foam so you will be able to pin parts
down if needed.
(image for illustration purpose only –no plans supplied with this kit)
It’s a good idea to put a layer of cling wrap over the
work surface. It’s easier to get your wing frame parts
unstuck from the cling wrap than from other materials.
Tape the cling wrap sheet to the work surface ensuring
it is completely flat and free from wrinkles.
The Wing Sections
Lay the Wing Main Spar on the work surface and
glue in place the 2 Ribs in the slots furthermost
toward each end. Ensure these are level and the
Wing Main Spar is vertical and allow it to dry. Make
sure the ribs form a 90 degree angle with the Wing
Main Spar. Alternate to the other wing and do the
same.
Note: Check that the rib direction on each wing is
correct so you are making one left wing and one right
wing.
Once the first two ribs have dried, continue to glue all
the other ribs in place making sure they are also level
and parallel to each other.

When gluing in he leading and trailing edges, press
them down from the top to slot in the ribs.
Glue in place the Wings Leading Edge Spar ensuring
that the end with the notch in it is attached to the
outermost rib. Allow to dry before continuing.
Glue in place the Wings Trailing Edge Spar in the
same way as above and allow to dry before continuing.
Glue in place the Wing Tips Capping pieces with the
thicker end toward the leading edge of the wings.
Glue in place the Wing Main Spar Joiners on
either side of one of the wing’s main spars.
Ensure the top and bottom of the joiner pieces is
flush with the top and bottom of the Wing Main
Spar.

Sand the Wings Leading Edge Spar and the Wings
Trailing Edge Spar at a slight angle so they fit flush
together.
Slide in the other Wing’s Main Spar and check
that the trailing edge strips and leading edge
strips from each wing meet flush in the middle.
Finally, glue in place the other wing at the Wing
Main Spar Joiner location. Ensure the Wing Main
Spar Joiners are flush with the top and bottom of the
Wing Main Spar.
Once The joint is dried, glue the leading and trailing edge
spars together. Use some masking tape to keep them
lined up while the glue dries.
Glue in the Centre Rib forward and aft pieces. This goes
directly on the centre line of the Wing Main Spar
Joiners. Ensure it is vertical and in line top and
bottom with the V in the joiners.
Then glue in place the Wing Tip Cornice pieces. These
are glued in the trailing edge corner of the wing tips.
Glue in place the Wing Boxing pieces which cover
the top of the wings.

Sand the Wing Boxing pieces to smooth and round off
the leading and trailing edges.
The wing covering sheet is made from heat shrinkable
plastic. Cut the sleeve in half to make 2 sleeves. Next
slide one sleeve over one of the wings. Glue it to the
wood at the wing root using a foam safe glue. Make sure
you leave the excess film protruding from the end of the
wing. When you heat this film to shrink it the part left
over on the end will shrink down leaving a small amount
to be trimmed off later.
Use a hair dryer to gently and evenly heat the covering all
over. Start with the hair dryer about 30cm away and
move closer as needed to allow the covering to shrink.
Work a little on one side and then turn over and work on
the other side alternating to tighten both sides
simultaneously. The finished product should look like this.
After shrinking and trimming the film, use foam safe glue
to attach the end pieces to the Wing Tips Capping.
Foam safe glue is used because of it’s tackiness which
helps it adhere to the film. We recommend using UHU
Expanded Polystyrene glue. As an alternative you could
use a craft glue stick. Pull the film tight (but not over
tight) and allow it to dry.
Next start work on the fuselage.
Measure back 110mm from the front of the Main Body
Former and glue in place the Wing Mounts on
either side.
110mm

Then glue in the Wing Mount Pegs and Wing
Brace.
Finally, glue in place the Wing Mount Boxing pieces
for and aft.
Propeller Assembly
Take the pin and feed it through the Propeller
Assembly as shown.
Put the propeller on so the rounded part of the hub
is toward the back (touching the Propeller
Assembly).
Use some fine tipped pliers to bend the end of the
shaft over as shown.
Attach the Propeller Assembly to the front of the
Main Body Former. Gluing is optional.

Attach the Rubber Hook to the aft end of the Main
Body Former leaving about 1cm of the former protruding.
It should be a very firm fit, however, you may glue it in
place if needed.
Push on the Tailplane Mount to the aft end of the Main
Body Former.
Glue the vertical stabiliser in place on the tailplane.
Use something square to keep it upright while
drying.
Use some sandpaper to scruff up the top surface of
the Tailplane Mount to allow the glue to bond easily to it.
Use foam safe glue such as UHU Por Expanded
Polystyrene to attach the tailplane to the Tailplane
Mount. Foam glue us used because unlike wood
glue, the foam glue dries tacky and gives the best
adhesion to the plastic.
Loop the rubber back and forth around the Prop Hook
and the Rubber Hook. The two ends can be tied in a
knot.
Try to adjust the length so the rubber loom doesn’t hang
down more than this.
A piece of cardboard this shape can be cut from a flat
sheet and taped to the edge of a table to be used as
a balance point test station.

Rubber bands are attached in an X pattern to the
pegs.
The point of Balance should be 28mm from the
leading edge of the wing.
You may need to remove the tailplane and trim one
centimetre at a time off the main body former to
achieve the correct balance point. However don’t trim
more than a few centimetres off. If needed add more
weight to the nose.
Balanced!
Test glide without winding up the rubber first. Further
adjustments can be made by further shortening the
main body former, or adding a shim under the leading
or trailing edge of the wing.

If needed these lines can be cut through with a hobby
knife and the tail surfaces wetted to make them
flexible so the elevators or rudder can be bent to the
desired position.
After test gliding, start to test fly with the propeller
wound up. Start with 1/3 knots and progress to ½ and
finally a full row of knots.
Double knotting is not recommended as it will
eventually lead to the rubber breaking.
Spare rubber can be purchased on
the MicronWings website.
See a test flight video on Youtube (Link)
Copyright © MicronWings 2015: All rights reserved.
This manual is for personal use only. No unauthorized copying or digital distributing permitted
without permission from MicronWings.