Millenium slow stick x User manual

Millennium RC presents…
The New and Improved (now even easier to build and cover!)
SSX – X-Trainer Build Kit
Wing span: Approx. 42”
Wing Area: 504 sq. in.
Wing Loading: 6.71 oz/ sq. ft.
Introduction:
The Slow Stick X and X-Trainer airplanes are available either as a complete kit which includes all of the
fuselage components or as “short kit” upgrade to the GWS Slow Stick™Electric ARF Park Flyer Airplane Kit
™. The “short” kit replaces the original Styrofoam wing and tail surfaces of the Slow Stick to a more robust
balsa-constructed design, complete with ailerons and a full symmetrical wing, allowing the Slow Stick to
become a fully aerobatic model aircraft. This wing and tail are designed to easily attach to your existing stick
fuselage. This build kit can be built either as a Slow Stick X™ (with the straight wing) or as the X-
Trainer™ (with a dihedral wing). The Slow Stick X is also available as a pre-built and covered ARF.
Adult supervision recommended for children 15 and under. R/C Airplanes should be flown following safety
guidelines provided by the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics).
CAUTION: This is not a toy!
Recommendations:
1. Read through each step before starting assembly.
2. After removing all the pieces from packaging, inspect to make sure there are no broken or missing parts.
3. Check off each completed step to help keep from losing your place.
4. Cover the work table with plastic wrap to protect from glue.

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List of Provided “Short Kit” Parts:
(“Short Kit” is intended for those who are wishing to upgrade
another 10mm stick-fuselage airplane such as the GWS Slow
Stick to a more aerobatic and robust model airplane)
1. All laser-cut balsa and plywood parts needed to
complete the wing/tail sections as shown below
2. 4 control horns
3. .047 piano wire for aileron pushrods
4. 2 (#2) 1/2” sheet metal screws (to hold tail section
on fuselage)
5. 2 #2 washers
6. #33 rubber bands
7. 5/32” aluminum tubing for rubber band post
extenders (not needed if using Millennium R/C’s
improved wing mounts)
8. CA Hinges
The Slow Stick X and the X-Trainer are also
available as a Build Kit Bundle (complete kit)
which includes the following additional items:
1. Slow Stick X Decal or X-Trainer Decal
2. X-Fuse Fuselage Set which includes wing mounts,
lipo battery mount with Velcro strap, foam tape for
mounting receiver, servo mounts, adjustable pushrod
guides, steerable tail gear and necessary
screws/hardware for these parts.
3. 2-piece 10mm square carbon fiber fuselage with
joiner piece
4. Millennium R/C outrunner motor mount
5. X-Gear ABS nylon plastic/carbon fiber landing gear
6. 2 2 ½” foam wheels
7. 1 1” wheel for steerable tail gear
8. .047 piano wire for rudder & elevator pushrods
Additional Items Required :
1. Diagonal cutters
2. Small screw driver
3. Pliers
4. Allen key set
5. Cyanoacrylate or CA Glue (thin and thick)
6. Hobby knife
7. 80-grit and 100-grit sandpaper
8. Sanding block
9. Tape measure and/or yardstick
10. Square
11. Razor saw
12. A park-flyer type lightweight plastic covering (Ex:
Ultracote Lite ™) and any tools recommended in its
instructions for application
13. Four mini servos for ailerons, rudder and elevator
14. Recommended mtor and speed control (400 style
outrunner, 125-200 watts with 20 amp speed control,
or equivalent)
15. Battery and propeller (use what is recommended in
instructions for motor)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Disclaimer:
Millennium R/C assumes no responsibility for
any accident or injury to persons or damage to
property.
Slow Stick X™or X-Trainer™Wing/Tail Build Kit Assembly Instructions Rev. 14

IMPORTANT:
DO NOT GLUE UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO DO SO!
NOTE: These instructions include steps for
building the wing either as a straight-wing Slow
Stick X OR the dihedral wing X-Trainer.
Wing assembly
The top of this wing is identified by the
installation of the main spar. The main spar
(SC1) is always installed from the TOP of the
wing.
Step-1: (Spar Crutch) Glue SC1 and SC1-A
together. Use SC1-B if you are building the
SSX as a trainer. Trim the plywood wing joiner
P2 for “dihedral” or “no dihedral”.
Step-2: Glue SC2-A to wing rib W2. Pay
attention to orientation. The circle in SC2-A
should be close to W2 and near the bottom. Use
SC2-B if you are building the trainer.
Remember, the opposing wing half is a
mirrored version. SC2-A/B should be square to
W2.
Step-3: Install but do not glue SC1 assembly.
The small holes in SC1 and SC2-A/B should
line-up.
Step-4: Install, do not glue W3 ribs.
Step-5: Glue TE-C pieces to TE-A. TE-A
should be square to TE-C.

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Step-6: Install, DO NOT glue TE (trailing
edge) assembly to ribs. Parts are delicate at this
point.
Step-7: Install, DO NOT glue 3/16" square
spar sticks. Tip! Look straight down the sticks
to determine natural bow. Install sticks so bow
is opposite opposing stick’s bow. This will help
make the wing truer.
Step-8: Install, DO NOT glue LE (leading
edge) crutch.
Step-9: Install end rib W4. Square W4 to LE
and TE then glue to TE and LE only.
Step-10: CAUTION! DO NOT install W1A
upside down. Install W1A and B. The notch in
the front of W1A should be facing the bottom
(Servo Side) of the wing. Square the LE and
TE to W1 and Glue at TE and LE. Use a small
scrap piece of 1/16" ply to shim the space
between SC1 and SC2-A/B. The parts should
be shimmed such that the plywood wing joiner
P2 should slide into the wing. Use extra
caution not to glue the shims or P2 in place.
Use a tiny dot of medium CA to tack the spar
sticks, SC1, SC2-A/B, W1 and W2 in place.
Pull the shims out and test fit P2. Remove P2,
place the wing on a flat surface so the spar is
straight and continue tack-gluing all joints. Lift
the wing off your work surface and use thin CA
to glue all joints. Take caution not to glue the
wing to your work surface or your face. LOL ☺

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Step-11: Glue LE-B top and bottom in place.
Keep trailing edge straight while gluing with
thin CA. Tip! Scotch Tape and Packing tape are
great for keeping the parts from gluing to the
work surface.
Step-12: Glue 1/8” X ¼” stringers and 3/16”
square leading edge as shown.
Step-13: Glue 1/16” sheeting as shown. Take
note of servo wire hole location in bottom
sheeting.
Step-14: Glue wing hinge sockets in place. Be
sure to align the center markings with the edge
of TE-A. Sand hinge sockets flush with TE-B
on both top and bottom of wing.
Step-15: Glue with medium CA, WT3, WT6,
WT9, WT10, WT11 (wing tip) and hinge block
as shown. Slot for hinge should face the trailing
edge of wing tip.

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Step-16: Install DO NOT glue WT1 and
WT2.
Step-17: Glue wing tip assembly to W4 wing
tip. Be sure the trailing edge is straight with the
main wing trailing edge.
Step-18: Glue wing tip stiffeners WT4, WT5
and WT7 in place.
Step-19: Round-off leading edge and tip of
wing. Leave trailing edge flat, but sand flush
TE-A and TE-B.
Step-20: Sand 3/16 Square leading edge piece
flush with Part LE so that plywood part P1 sits
flat.
Step-21: Glue P1 in place.

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Step-22: Build two aileron servo blocks from
parts P3 and P5. At this time, go ahead and
complete the other wing half. Be sure to make
the opposite half a mirrored image of the first
half.
Step-23: Install the servo block as shown.
Sand as much of the laser burn from the
wing as possible without distorting the shape of
the wing parts. Sand sheeting and other parts
flush with W1 so when the two wing halves are
brought together, the left and right W1 ribs join
together flush. Be careful not to oversand.
Cover the wing halves with light model
covering before joining them permanently. Do
not completely cover the side of the W1 center
rib.
Step-24: Glue P2 and P4 in place on one wing
half. Use slow drying glue on P2 such as
epoxy. You only need enough glue to attach P2
to the top and bottom spar sticks. Apply glue to
P2 and W1. Now join the two wing halves.
Note the picture shows an uncovered wing. Do
not join the two wing halves until they are
covered. You may also install covered ailerons,
servos and linkage before this step is you so
choose.
Step-25: Cut from 3/16 square sticks: (2) 19-
1/2” (1) 4-1/2”, (2) 4”, (6) 3-3/4”, (2) 3-1/4”,
(8) 2-1/2” (2) 2-1/4” and set aside. Be sure to
cut longest to shortest. Use the scraps as much
as possible. Cut (24) aileron stiffeners by using
part A1 or A2 as a cutting guide.

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Step-26: Build two aileron frames from 19-
1/2” cut stick (See Step-25), A1, A2 and pre cut
aileron leading edge pieces. Note hinge slots
are pre cut and need to be positioned on the
edge of the aileron leading edge. Be sure to
align the hinge slots on the two leading edge
pieces. Be sure to use a straight edge such as a
ruler to keep the leading edge straight while
building.
Step-27: Glue the stiffeners into the aileron
frame. Exact position of stiffeners is not critical
as long as they do not block hinge slots. Half of
the stiffeners can be omitted for a lighter
model.
Step-28: Bevel the leading edge of the ailerons
to a blunt point. Round-off the trailing and side
edges. Sand smooth and cover with light model
covering.
Step-29: Cut covering at hinge slots on the
wing and ailerons and insert CA hinges. Use a
pin pushed through the center of the hinge to
keep it from pushing all the way through while
installing the ailerons (See picture 29A). Check
that the aileron moves freely. Soak the hinge
with thin CA glue. The style and size supplied
with this kit may vary. It may be necessary to
make the hinge slots deeper.
Step-30: Assemble the rear wing saddle from
parts P10, P8, P7 and P9. Bend P7 along the
dotted line so it forms over P9. When building
the trainer kit use P9T in place of P9 and P10
will be bent to conform to the dihedral of the
wing. It is also necessary to shim the mount
with 1/8” ply parts P16 between P10 and the
wing when building the trainer version. Be sure
to remove the covering where the saddle is
glued to the wing.

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Step-31: Assemble the front wing saddle parts
P11 in a stack. Glue the assembly to the front
of P1. If you are building the trainer, it is
necessary to trim P11 at the dotted line before
gluing the stack together. You also need to
shim P11 1/8” using P15 for the trainer version
only.
This completes the wing.
Stab assembly
(Assembly up to Step 25 must be completed
before proceeding to tail section)
Step-32: Assemble the tail mount as shown
glue together with CA and cover if desired. The
vertical and horizontal stabs are assembled on a
flat surface. Be sure to protect the surface from
glue. A 1:1 scale drawing is provided to use as
a template. 3/16” square sticks for the stabs
were cut in step 25. Note that S3 is a Stack
made up of S3A and S3B. The plywood piece
S3A needs to be on the bottom of the horizontal
stab. Bevel the leading edge of the rudder and
elevator. Round-off all other edges with the
exception of base of the vertical stab. Cover the
stab with light model covering. Hinge using
same method as in step 29.
Step-33: Trim the covering away from the top
center of the horizontal stab where the tail
mount will be glued. Insert the tail mount into
the slots on the horizontal stab and secure with
thin CA glue. Trim the covering from the
vertical stab tab insert it into the top of the tail
mount and square it to the horizontal stab.
Secure the vertical stab with thin CA.
The SSX tail section is designed to be
adjustable. The tail mount assembly has 3 P12
formers. The fuselage tube needs only to pass
through the first 2 P12 formers. This allows the
end of the fuse to be positioned anywhere
between the second and third P12 formers.

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This completes the stab assembly
Fuselage Assembly
(not included in “short kit”)
Use the existing GWS parts from your GWS Slow
Stick™ or use the parts from our X-Fuse set.
Refer to Drawing Insert #1 for details on
fuselage assembly. Drawing 1 is scaled so that
it can be accurately measured to determine
fuselage component locations. ¼” on the
drawing will actually be 1” on the model. Wait
till the model is balanced to screw the wing
mounts and tail section in place. Refer to X-
Gear instruction sheet for assembly of X-Gear.
Temporarily mount all components including
the battery, prop, control horns and wheels.
Install linkage to ailerons and stab but leave the
stab push rods long so you can adjust the length
of the tail. Temporarily mount the wing and
stab as well. Balance the model by supporting
the model on your finger tips at the CG
location. Do NOT add weight to balance the
aircraft. Move the wing back if the model is tail
heavy or forward if it is nose heavy. Ultimately
you want the length between the wing and tail
to be maximized. More advanced pilots can
move the CG further back for more
performance. Once you have the CG set go
ahead and secure all the hardware and complete
the linkage.
Use CA glue to attach fuselage joiner to one
end of the shorter fuselage stick (tail end).
Slide one end of the longer fuselage stick into
the joiner and attach with provided screw. Cut
excess off end of screw and file down sharp
edges. See image below:
Slide the push rod guide onto the tail end of the
fuselage. Then slide the rear wing saddle
mount onto the front end of the fuselage,
approximately 15 ½” down the stick. DO
NOT SCREW IN YET.

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Slide the two servo mounts down about an inch
from the rear wing saddle mount. Now slide
the front wing saddle mount, approximately 5
½” down from the front.
Slide the battery mount, onto the fuselage,
approximately 1” – ½” from the front. DO
NOT glue or screw in any of these plastic parts
yet, as they are in temporary positions. See
Drawing 1 for details:
Feed the long wire push rod through the push
rod guide and through the guide holes in the
rear wing saddle, so that the “Z-bend” is at the
tail section. Repeat on both sides.
Install the servos, as per servo manufacturer
instructions, using servo manufacturer-
provided hardware. DO NOT SCREW any of
the parts in yet. See picture below:
Final Assembly
Attach the “Z-bend” end of the long control
rods into the middle hole of each one of the tail
section control horns. Feed the control rods
through the rod guides on the fuselage and then
slide the tail section on to the fuselage. See
Drawing 1 for details.
Drill two small holes on the bottom front and
center of the horizontal stabilizer. Use the #2
½” screws to fasten the fuselage to the tail
assembly. Holes should be about 3/8” from
leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer and
spaced 1” Do not damage the wood when
tightening. Use provided #2 washers. See
Drawing 1 for details.

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If using your existing GWS fuselage this step
would be necessary. Installing Rubber Band
Post Extenders: One minor design flaw in the
original Slow Stick is that the rubber band
posts are too short. Using 5/32 aluminum
tubing, cut 4 3/8” long pieces. (Some kits may
come with these already cut). Use thick CA
glue and glue them to the existing rubber band
posts of the original Slow Stick wing saddles.
Make sure you do not leave sharp edges that
can cut the rubber bands. I like to fill the tube
with thick CA and leave a bead at the top of the
tube. If you do not have a tubing cutter, you
can use an X-acto knife in a rolling action to
cut the tubing. Our new X-Fuse eliminates the
need for rubber band post extenders.
Main Wing Decal
(not included in “short kit”)
1. Cut excess material from decal before
removing the backing.
2. Remove the protective backing to expose
the adhesive.
3. Add about 3 drops of dish soap to 2 pints of
clean water. Put it in a spray bottle and
spray the back of the decal.
4. Allow the decal to dry overnight.
5. Slide the decal into position and squeegee
the excess water from under the decal.
Control Throws
Most advanced modelers will want every bit of
control they can squeeze from this model.
Advanced pilots will set all throws to
maximum and use rates where appropriate.
Beginners should set controls to 50% of the
maximum possible or 25 degrees for ailerons
and elevator and max for rudder.
First flight: Be sure all controls are set
correctly. Set low rates to about 50%. Take-off
should be at half throttle with recommended
power plant. Climb to a higher altitude and
adjust trims as needed. You should find that
this aircraft has a very low stall rate and is
capable of most acrobatics. Happy flying!
Enjoy Your New Millennium R/C
Slow Stick X or X-Trainer!
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or
have any questions about assembly, please contact
us at the address below:
Millennium R/C
12859 Lower River Blvd. Orlando, FL 32828
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
www.millenniumrc.com
www.FlyERC.com
For updates and tips, visit the Slow Stick X or X-
Trainer Build Thread on RC Groups:
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646592