Millennium MINIMILL V1.5 User manual
MINIMILL V1.5
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Made in a shed somewhere … Probably
Acknowledgements
Whilst the work that has been put in to this project by the millennium designs team is immense we can’t take all
the credit for the project as a whole, we had a lot of help along the way and would like to take a moment to
recognise a few of the entities outside of the team that helped us make this all a reality.
To the team at openbuilds. As many of you may know we originally began this journey as a mod for the
Openbuilds Minimill and whilst we’ve moved far beyond the capabilities of that machine it would be remiss of us
to not to recognise the work that went into that project.
To the Voron team. Voron has also been a huge inspiration to us on the team from the ethos of the community
driven development to the layout and content of our manuals and we do owe them a lot (we even use some
modified voron parts).
And finally to Fabreeko. Early on Fabreeko had our back with support and donations so that we could aord to
buy parts and they helped us guarantee that we could provide a machine that lived up to everyones expectations
for that we are eternally grateful.
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Take a deep breath for a second and realise something.
You… yes YOU, are about to commit to building a robot that can cut through metal, let alone your squishy human parts…
A machine that can easily electrocute you, cut you or set fire to your whole neighbourhood If it's not given the respect it deserves.
Please give this machine the respect it deserves !!!
Please follow the manual to the letter and perform any additional research you deem necessary before first attempting to use it.
If there is anything, and we mean anything that you are curious or unsure about you are more than welcome to ask us on our discord channel
After all, you are special to us and we don’t want you to get hurt due to a lack of knowledge.
Most importantly from everyone at the Millennium design team,
Have fun building your very first milo.
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Introduction
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Bill of materials
Provided Here is the bill of materials. Whilst we recommend that you try stick to this list as much as possible you're an adult (hopefully)
and this is your machine. If there is a substitution that you think would lead to a better machine then do that, if there is a feature you
don’t feel that is necessary don’t buy the parts for it. Furthermore there are options in the guide that are up to you to decide on,
such as drivers, motors and even control boards. Do your research and find what you need to make your build work for you.
Spindle selection
Milo supports 2 sizes of spindle 65mm or 80mm, these cover the 2 most common spindle sizes for a DIY mill of this type. In terms of what you’re
looking for when buying a spindle you’ll want a minimum of 800w of power, from there you need to decide how you want to control your spindle
the simplest types are router style spindles which use a switch and or selector knob and provide the easiest way of interfacing with your spindle,
the most complex way involves using a VFD with this setup you have more granular control over your settings and can use outputs on your control
board to control the spindle itself.
NOTE : There are too many styles of spindle to realistically account for, so if the spindle mount doesn’t support your spindle then design a new one
send it our way and we may include it as an ocial user mod.
Introduction
Parts list and printing guidelines
The millennium team has provided a printing list with settings for you as a guideline for printing the
parts necessary for the build. This list can be found Here. Inside you’ll find details on some of the print settings that will give
you the best mechanical properties suited for each individual part. Remember these settings are only a guideline and are open
to your own interpretations but we do highly recommend following them.
File Naming
With your STL files downloaded and your printer warmed up you may be wondering which parts to print in your favorite colors ? Well have
no fear we’ve got your back we’ve especially labelled each file to give you a hand.
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Primary color
Example Handwheel body x2.stl
These files have no prefix in their
filename so are safe to print in
your primary color.
Accent color
Example [a] table bolt down bracket A x2.stl
These files are prefixed with “[a]”
And are intended to be printed in your chosen
accent color.
Quantity required
Example Handwheel body x2.stl
If any file ends with “_x#”, that is
telling you the quantity of that
part required to build the
machine.
Introduction
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Drilling out holes
To make some features printable without support some holes are printed with a sacrificial thin floor. These parts will need to be drilled
and or cut out before use.
Part versions
Some printed parts have multiple versions in order to cater for dierent machine setups, be aware that not all versions need to be printed
to put your machine together. Print only the parts that you need.
Introduction
Example Skirt front A xxxxxx .stl
Note the descriptor at the end of the file name, while there are many types of “skirt front A”
files they all vary in their design and some are even mirrors of others so as to mount devices
on both sides. Choose the parts you need based on your build requirements.
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T-Nuts application
This machine requires an immense amount of T-nuts. In the interest of simplifying the instructions of this manual, we have chosen to
omit the installation of T-nuts. Wherever a part interfaces with an extrusion in a way that looks like it requires a T-nut should be
considered a part that requires a T-nut.
Introduction
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Introduction
Pre-flight training
Before you head out on your journey to create skynet it’s probably a good idea that you learn a few things. Luckily the team over here have put
together a curated list of videos to teach you all that you need to know. So sit back, relax and enjoy.
●How to lubricate your motion system
●How to use heat set inserts
●Should you cold blue your rails ? And how to do it
●How to get started with RepRap firmware on a fly board
●CNC basics
●Electronics connectors and how to use them
●Cable chains and how not to use them
CONTACT US
Building milo can be confusing but we’re here to help.
Do you have a question ?
Do you wanna show o your build ?
Or maybe do you just want someone to chat with ?
Well why not join the community here on :
https://discord.gg/TY4mtzhpZY
r/MilleniumMachines
Millennium Machine Works Ocial
https://github.com/MilleniumMills
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Introduction
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HARDWARE REFERENCE
Button head cap bolt (BHCS)
Metric fastener with a dome shaped head
and hex drive. Most commonly found in
locations where a fastener makes
contact directly with a printed part.
ISO 7380-1
Socket head cap bolt (SHCS)
Metric fastener with a dome shaped
head and hex drive. Most commonly
found in locations where a fastener makes
contact directly with either a metal part or
in conjunction with a washer.
ISO 4762
Flat head countersunk bolt (FHCS)
Metric fastener with a dome shaped head and hex
drive. Most commonly found in locations where a
fastener makes contact directly with a printed part.
ISO 10642
Nyloc hex nuts
Hex nuts couple with bolts to create a tight, secure joint.
Nyloc nuts go one step further and cuddle your bolts like
your mum used to when you were a child.
ISO 10642
Heat Set Insert
Heat inserts with a soldering tip so that
they melt the plastic when installed.
As the plastic cools, it solidifies around the knurls
and ridges on the insert for excellent
resistance to both torque and pull-out.
Fan screw CS-1
A PC standard fan mounting screw. Exclusively
used to hold the system cooling fans to the bottom
panel.
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HARDWARE REFERENCE
F608ZZ bearing
A ball bearing with a flange used to hold
leadscrews in place.
608ZZ bearing
A ball bearing used to hold leadscrews in
place.
Locking collar
Steel or aluminium loops with a grub screw in the
side used to limit the free travel of a leadscrew.
Self Tapping screw
Fastener with a pronounced thread profile that is bolted
directly into plastic.
Set Screw
Small headless fastener with an internal drive. Used
in pulleys and other gears. Also called a grub screw.
ISO 4026
Washer
Usually stamped from sheet metal this type of
spacer distributes load over a larger area. Only used
in M5 size.
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HARDWARE REFERENCE
Spring T-nut
Nut that can be inserted into the slot of
an aluminium profile. Used in both M3
and M5 variants throughout this guide.
40 tooth GT2 pulley
Used to drive the Z axis leadscrew.
20 tooth GT2 pulley
Attached to the z axis motor used to drive the Z
axis from the Z axis motor
Brass leadscrew nut
Used to translate rotational motion of a
leadscrew into linear motion of an axis
This page is intentionally left blank.
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X Axis Assembly
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X Axis Assembly
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Disclaimer : part inconsistencies
The Y axis motor mount has gone through a big update to make it stronger and easier to work with unfortunately it means that a vast section of the manual will need to reworked to
show o this change, in the meantime we want to make sure that you can continue on with your Milo builds so you may see both the old and new Y motor mounts appear in this
manual at various stages. Where the old mount appears the steps will be exactly the same for the new mount and in places where only the new mount can be seen those steps will
only work for the new mount. No hardware changes have been made so there is no need to buy new screws or heated inserts.
Old New
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Y Axis Assembly
XY plate orientation
The XY gantry plate is not an exact mirrored part and therefore
needs to be oriented in the right directions in order for it to be
installed correctly.
To make sure that the plate is installed the right way round rotate
the plate until counterbores “a” are facing upwards.
With the counterbores the right way round locate hole “b” and make
sure it is on the right side of the plate.
After this has been done face “c” will now be oriented towards you,
when installed this face will be towards Y minimum (or towards the
operator).
a
b
c
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M3x5mm SHCS
Y Axis Assembly
M3x10mm SHCS
Protect your rail
carriages
Rail carriages should
always have a rail or
dummy rail installed in
them to avoid getting
them damaged. If your
rails didn’t come with
dummy rails then print
the ones we provided
for you in the print list.
BE SAFE , LOCTITE IT !
These machines vibrate an immense amount
when in use and fasteners are bound to back out. don’t
be afraid to add a little bit of loctite to all your screws
to avoid this problem
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Y Axis Assembly
M3 Heat Insert
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Y Axis Assembly
M3x20mm SHCS
M3 washer
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Y Axis Assembly
M5 Heat Insert
M3 Heat Insert
Brass leadscrew
nut
M3x8mm SHCS
Table of contents
