minicopter Heli-Baby NT User manual

minicopter
Heli-Baby NT
Ord.-No. 5100
minicopter
Rheinstahlring 47
34246 Vellmar
Germany
[phone]
[e-mail]
www.minicopter.de
Manual
apr 24th 2016

Congratulations on your new Heli-Baby NT. In celebration of the 40th anniversary of the
legendary Schluter Heli-Baby, the forefather of all current model helicopters, we have de-
cided to make a unique limited edition modern version of the Heli-Baby to provide you with
a fantastic fun flying experience with a twist. The model includes the pilot, seat and cano-
py as in the original design. The Heli-Baby NT is designed now to be used with flybarless
systems. It is equipped with a freewheel unit for autorotations and a modern tailrotor. The
aim was, however, to keep the original Heli-Baby design as far as possible. So the gear
ratios are almost the same and the side view of the frame design is identical. It also inclu-
des the Schluter tail rotor control push pull system.
The Heli-Baby NT is again a very unusual model to see on the flying field and its presence
in the air will make you a proud owner.
We hope you have lots of fun assembling and flying your new Heli-Baby NT.
Gerd Guzicki & The Minicopter Team
Recommended Equipment:
Motor: Plettenberg Orbit „Heli-Baby“ Ord.- No. 5110
ESC: Hobbywing 50A V3 Ord.-No. 6090
Servos: f.e. Graupner DES 708 Ord.-No. 6081 (set of 3)
flybarless system: Microbeast or similar
Receiver: 2,4 GHz
telemetry: f.e. Iisi TXE50 Ord.-No. 1751
flight battery: 6s/25-30C upto 4400 mAh
Mainblades: NHP 500 Ord.-No. 1023
Tailblades: Zeal 80mm Ord.-No. 1052-1054
These are reliable components that were carefully tested by us. Of course you can also
use other manufacturers equipment. The Heli-Baby has been designed, set up and tes-
ted with the above parts. It is therefore recommended that you at least use the motor and
mainrotor blades listed above.
Tools:
Hex wrench in size 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 and 3 mm
Open wrench or socket wrench 4, 5.5 und 7mm
Loctite 243
Pliers
Ball joint pliers

Maintenance and Security
A radio controlled model helicopter is not a toy. Bad maintenance and flying can result in seri-
ous accidents and injuries.
IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFO-
RE YOU BUILD AND FLY THE HELI BABY NT.
Always keep the following rules in mind:
- During motor tests on the workbench, remove main and tailrotor blades and take care that
nothing can get caught in the rotating parts of the model.
- With electric helicopters unintentional starting of the motor is all to easily done. Once you
have connected the flight battery keep well clear of the arc of the main and tailrotors!
- If you need to make adjustments, change or program any settings of the helicopter, ESC or
flybar system, remove two of the three motor cables to eliminate the risk of a sudden motor
start.
- Keep your distance from the model, at least 5m (15ft.) during hovering.
- Never aim your helicopter at people or property. Always keep the model at least 20 metres
(60ft) from people or property.
- Remove all Lipo batteries from the model when not in use and store them in a fireproof
container or on a fire resistant floor.
-It is important that for the first flights of the model not to over discharge the Lipo batteries. If
possible use a telemetry system to advise of the remaining capacity/flight time.
- If possible always fly at an organised model flying club. If you are unable to fly at a flying club
it is YOUR responsibility to get the land owners permission to fly and fly in a safe manner not
putting people or property at risk.
In the event of a crash, always remember to activate throttle hold to turn off the motor and
disconnect the flight battery to make the model safe.
Vellmar, in April 2016

Start with the assembly of the upper
frame. Join the frames H1 and H2, the
bearing blocks H3 (2x) and H4 with hex
screws M3x35 D338, countersunk screws
M3x35 D324 and lock nuts M3 008 to-
gether.
It is not necessary to sand chamfers on
the edges of the frames as they are alrea-
dy smooth and it may result in scratches
on the surface of the carbon.
Two countersunk screws M3x35 D324
are inserted through the upper two holes
of the left frame and the bearing block
H03 and with bearing flange upwards
slide onto the screws. Also fit the two hex
screws M3x35 D338 and the lower bea-
ring block H03 with bearing flange down-
wards and slide onto screws. Then place
the right frame H02 on to the screws and
loosely fit the 4 lock nuts.
Put the motor shaft bearing block H04
between the frames and secure it with two
screws M3x35 D338 and loosely fit lock
nuts M3 008.
Loose means that the nut will be tightened
to be in contact with the frame so that the
frames are still movable for final align-
ment.
For a perfect fit of the three bearing
blocks, press the two mainshaft bearings
downwards/upwards during tightening of
the screws. When all screws are tightened
check the alignment of the frame edges,
especially the lower edges.

Overview of the elevator bellcrank compo-
nents
The ball link bolt M3x9 078 is attached
to the flat side of the bellcrank S956 with
Loctite. The ball link bolt M3x4 076 is at-
tached to the opposite side with the ribbed
flange using Loctite.
Push a hex screw M3x20 D331 through
the center bearings of the bellcrank. If the
spacer between the bearings is not con-
centric, use a needle to align it with the
bearings. Add a washer 3x6x0,5 D312 on
to the back.
Attach the bell crank assembly through
the hole in the left side frame and tighten
using lock nut M3 008. An open spanner
#707 is recommended to hold the nut.

Overview of the mainshaft components.
Screw a black grub screw with pointed tip
M3x4 D314 in the hole in the collar ring
H06. Use Loctite.
There is a small positioning hole in the
mainshaft that must align with the tip of
the grub screw. When the tip is in line with
the hole tighten the screw.
Two additional silver grub screws M3x4
081 need to be fitted into the collar ring
and tightened, Use Loctite

Overview of the main gear wheel unit
components.
Press the freewheel unit H08 into the cen-
tre part of the main wheel H07 and take
care that the holes in both parts are lined
up.
Four countersunk screws M3x8 025 are
fitted loosely at first and then tightened
in a cross pattern(3,9,12,6 o´clock). Use
Loctite.
Push the prepared mainshaft assembly
from above through the mainshaft bea-
rings and from below fit a shim washer
0x16x0,5 757.

Fit the main gear assembly and check the
clearance of the unit. The mainshaft must
protrude a small distance from the bottom
of the unit. If the clearance is too large
then add washers 10x16x0.1 046 or 0.2
033. If the clearance is too small then add
washers 5x10x0.1 044.
Fit the aluminium main shaft lock H09 with
hex screw M5x12 034 and add Loctite to
the thread.
Screw in screw finger-tight and check the
clearance. If necessary add or remove
washers. If everything is slop and bind
free, tighten the screw carefully. Use a
long screw through the upper hole in the
shaft so that the screw can be tightened
properly.
Finally check clearance of freewheel as-
sembly and that there is no play or bin-
ding of the gearwheel.

Overview of the motor mount and drive
unit components.
The brass spacer bush H12 is pushed
onto the motor shaft. Then fit the pinion
gear S974.
The grub screw hole in the pinion is positi-
oned so that it lines up with the flat spot on
the motor shaft.
Then put some Loctite on the thread of
the grub screw M4x4 573 and screw it into
the pinion. Check before tightening that
you are really on the flat spot. Therefore
leave the screw slightly loose and feel the
endpoints of the flat spot while turning the
pinion back and forth on the shaft. When
this is achieved tighten the screw with 1.7
Nm torque.

1. Fit the second grub screw M4x4 573
with Loctite and screw into the second
hole of the pinion and tighten (1.7Nm).
Put two washers 3x6x1 051 onto the hex
screws M3x8 D197 and fit through the
motor carrier H10. Finally add Loctite to
the screws.
Fit the screws to the motor so that the mo-
tor cables are under the motor carrier and
tighten the screws.
Fit two washers 002 onto hex screws
M3x10 D328, fit them from below into the
motor carrier and add Loctite to the th-
reads.

Screw the assembly to the motor carrier
holder H11.
The motor unit is pushed from below into
the upper frame.
The holes in the frame should align with
the holes of the motor carrier without
being forced. Otherwise adjust the height
of the pinion or add washers.
Tighten the assembly with two hex screws
M3x35 D338 and lock nuts M3 008.

Check the gear mesh by moving the main
gear wheel slightly in both directions. A
small amount of play should be noticable.
If the gear mesh is too tight, loosen the
hex screws holding the mainshaft bearing
blocks and press the blocks to the front. If
the gear play is too much loosen the hex
screws of the motor carrier and the bea-
ring blocks and press both together.
Push brass bush S988 onto the end of the
motor shaft
Adjust the motor shaft so that the flat spot
is at the rear. Push the belt wheel S981 on
the shaft and fit a grub screw M3x5 737
with Loctite.
Tighten the belt wheel.Take care that the
grub screw is really on the flat spot. There-
fore leave the screw slightly loose and feel
the endpoints of the flat spot while turning
the motor back and forth slightly. When
this is achieved tighten the screw.

Overview of the lower frame components.
Attach the rear U-profile H16 and the front
U-profile H15 with two hex screws M3x6
and nuts D547 with Loctite on the right
lower side frame H14 (with three cutouts
of the same contour).
Hold the nuts with an open wrench (f.e.
#707)
It is recommended that assembly is done
on a flat surface while tightening the
screws so that the U-profiles are parallel
with each other.

Mount the left lower side frame H13 in
the same way with four hex screws M3x6
D196 und nuts M3 D547.
Overview of the upper U-profiles compo-
nents
The gyro platform H17 is attached to the
frame with four hex screws M3x6 D196
and nuts D547 with the arms pointing
downwards.
The controller platform H18 is also at-
tached to the frame with four hex screws
M3x6 D196 und nuts D547 with the arms
pointing upwards.

Overview of the landing gear.
Attach four countersunk screws M3x8 025
to the front and rear bottom U-profile and
Loctite each thread.
Place the frames onto the landing gear
H50 (onto landing bows H19 and skids
H20).
Loosely fit the landing gear with four clam-
ping bow holders H21. Do not tighten at
this stage.

Check for symmetry on both sides with a
ruler.
Now tighten the countersunk screws.
Overview of the assembled unit.
Overview of frame connection compo-
nents.

Fit the outer four frame connectors H23
with four hex screws M3x25 D336 on the
lower frame and add Loctite to the
threads.
Next pull the hex screws out so they just
dissapear into the connectors.
Push two inner connectors H22 bet-
ween the outer ends of the upper frame.
Then slide the upper frame between the
connectors of the lower frame so that
the screws are in line and push the hex
screws into the holes. Do not tighten the
screws at this stage.
As soon as the rear connector is assem-
bled the hex screws can be tightened. You
will probably need a second 2.5mm hex
driver for this.

Now add the inner two connection parts
using two more inner connectors H22 and
outer connectors H23 and four hex screws
M3x25 D336.
Overview of the assembled unit.
Overview of the rear canopy plate mount
and the tail servo mount components.
Prepare the tail servo holder mounting
block H25. Before mounting, screw two
hex screw M3x8 D197 into the upper face
to make mounting of the tail servo holder
in it‘s final position easier.

First mount the block using only the upper
two holes in the frame. This is so it can
be tilted later to tighten the screws more
easily for the tailservo holder.
Mount the upper rear plate connector H24
with two hex screws M3x8 D197 and Loc-
tite, but leave loose.
Fit the lower rear plate connector H24 in
the same way with two hex screws M3x8
D197 using Loctite, but leave loose.
Attach the rear canopy plate H26.

Add the tailservo holder H27. You may
have to file the corners of the slot in the
rear plate, but only a small amount. The
holder should fit in the plate snugly. As
soon as the holder fits into the slot (note it
is slightly angled) as shown in the picture
it should be secured with two hex screws
M3x10 D328 on the mounting block H25.
For this a ball wrench is useful but not
essential.
After tightening press the tailservo holder
downwards so that the lower holes of the
mounting block line up with the holes in
the frame.
Now attach two hex screws M3x8 D197
in the holes and tighten all four screws
carefully, do not over tighten as this part is
plastic.
Fit the rear canopy plate with two hex
screws M3x8 D197 and Loctite. After
tightening you can also tighten the outer
screws of the plate connectors.