Multiples Athena Operating manual

Athena Awning
User and installation manual
February 2019 version

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1. Table of content
1. Table of content
2. READ ME!
3. Getting ready
3.1. Tools and help you will need
3.2. Revision of installation
requirements
3.2.1. Required height
3.2.2. Required width
3.2.3. Masonry
3.2.4. Under Eaves-Soffit
installation
3.3. Unpacking the awning
3.4. Parts list
4. Overview and anchors
4.1. Siding walls made of wood,
vinyl or aluminium
4.1.1. Where to install
4.1.2. Finding the studs, joists
or headers
4.1.3. Shims and solidity
4.1.4. Bracket installation
4.2. Masonry
4.2.1. Choosing the position
4.2.2. Installation on bricks
4.2.3. Installation
4.3 Under Soffits or Eaves
4.3.1. Choosing the position
4.3.2. Finding the trusses,
joists or rafters
4.3.3. Shims and solidity
4.3.4. Brackets installation
5. Installing the awning
5.1. Mounting the awning on the
brackets
5.2. Testing the solidity of the
installation
5.3. Connecting and operating your
awning
5.3.1 Remote and support
5.4. Last details
6. Safety and advice
6.1 Acrylic fabric maintenance
6.2 Maintenance of the electric
motor and remote
7. Appendices
7.A. Adjusting the pitch
7.B. Programming the awning limits
7.B.1. Programming the open
limit.
7.B.2. Programming the close
limit.
7.C. Motor and remote resetting
and synchronisation
7.D. Wind sensor
7.E. New Wind Sensor installation
7.F. Memorizing the Wind Sensor in
the motor receiver.
7.F.1. Calibrating the Wind
Sensor.
7.F.2. Regulating the sensitivity
to the wind.
7.F.3. Memorizing a new
remote handset
7.F.4. Protecting the Awning
when it is moving
7.F.5. Timeout after a wind
Alarm
7.E. Removing the Awning from the
bracket
8. Troubleshooting guide

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2. READ ME!
This section contains IMPORTANT WARNINGS concerning YOUR SAFETY and the
INTEGRITY OF YOUR AWNING AND INSTALLATION.
WARNING: The wind sensor is not a security device to prevent damages caused by high
winds and rainwater accumulation; accumulated water, snow or ice, can severely
damage your awning (a simple power outage will render the automatic closing of the
awning impossible).
NEVER LEAVE YOUR AWNING IN THE OPEN POSITION WITHOUT PROPER
SURVEILLANCE.
BE CAREFULL! Your awning is not meant to cope with high winds, water, snow or ice
accumulations since this can cause the awning’s arms to break or to make it fall
causing severe corporal and material - property damage.
NEVER LEAVE YOUR AWNING IN THE OPEN POSITION WITHOUT PROPER
SURVEILLANCE.
BE CAREFULL! A correct and proper installation of the anchors as well as the integrity
of the wall or eaves onto which they will be affixed is the sole responsibility of the
customer –user. All houses are different; and the anchoring devices supplied with the
awing might not be suited for your situation –installation. IF YOU ARE IN DOUBT, DO
NOT HESITATE TO CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL CONTRACTOR.
3. Getting ready
3.1. Tools and help you will need
Security knife for unpacking
2 ladders or step ladders
Chalk line
Measuring tape
Pencil (Ink marker or carpenter’s pencil)

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Ratchet and Socket (9/16’’)
Philips screwdriver to open the tube
6 mm Allen key to adjust the pitch
Drill
Level
To install in wooden structures: 3/16’’ bit
To install in masonry structures: 3/8’’ masonry bit
Optional:
Stud finder
Masking tape
Nylon or metal spacers (shims)
Zip tool (to remove siding)
Caulking
You will need help to install the brackets. It takes two persons to safely install an
awning on the brackets, but we strongly recommend three persons. You can also rent
a manual lift.
3.2. Revision of installation requirements
Properly evaluate the required space to install the awning by following the steps
explained from section 3.2.1 to 3.2.4 included.
If you have 2 Athena installed side-by-side or close from a corner: You must keep a 2”
space between the awnings and 3” on the motor or manual crank side if it is located close
to a corner of an internal wall. Doing so will allow you to install easily the decorative cap.
3.2.1. Required height
Your awning has an adjustable pitch and will be set to a minimum of 18” when opened,
for a 10’ projection awning. You may need to give it more slope if your installation or
surface is not perfectly level. Please consider this when selecting the height of installation.
We recommend a mounting height of 108” inches; but it should be at least 96” inches:
the MINIMAL required height. You will need a free unencumbered space of 6.5 inches
high on top of the total width of the awning’s structure.
For a motorised awning, the length of the electrical cord is 15 feet long and it must be
plugged into a GFI outlet.
The motor’s amperage requirement is less than 2 amps.

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3.2.2. Required width
The number of brackets for an Athena awning varies in regards to the width of the
awning in question (see figure 6). The weight of the awning is solely supported at
these anchoring points. Consequently, studs or other structural parts of the house are
mandatory at these anchor points.
Whether you are installing on siding, masonry or other types of wall, be advised that the
far corner of walls have a few inches without structural studs, this is regardless of the
type of exterior cladding. Consider this if you have limited space to install the brackets
if your installation is on a narrow wall or windows close to the corners.
You will then need to find the studs, the headers or joists to install your brackets.
Be advised that many recent constructions have iBEAMS or METAL WEB JOISTS
instead of the solid wood joists. These joists ARE NOT APPROPRIATE AS ANCHORS FOR
AWNINGS.
3.2.3. Masonry
Masonry walls are weaker near the top. You will need to have at least 4 rows of bricks
over the top of the bracket for a secure installation. The weight of the rows above
prevents the awning from pulling the bricks loose.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE:
SOME BRICK WALLS MIGHT NOT BE STRONG ENOUGH TO SAFELY SUPPORT AN
AWNING. THE SUPPLIED FASTENERS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO ATTACH THE AWNING TO
VENEER BRICK WALLS, DECORATIVE BRICKS OR TO « SOFT BRICKS».
IN DOUBT? CONSULT A CERTIFIED CONTRACTOR TO CONFIRM IF THE SUPPLIED
FASTENERS ARE ADEQUATE FOR THE TYPE OF WALL ONTO WHICH YOU ARE PLANNING
YOUR INSTALLATION. IF THEY ARE NOT HE WILL BE ABLE TO INFORM YOU ON YOUR
INSTALLATION’S SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS.
3.2.4. Under Eaves - Soffit installation
You need to open your soffit to see inside your eaves and plan before you can even
consider installing a soffit awning. You need to see if your joists or rafters are level or
slanted and if they are strong enough to support the awning.
If your trusses are slanted, you will need to purchase adapters for rafters or to install a
leveled beam; please consult a certified contractor on this subject if this is the case for
your type of installation.

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PLEASE NOTE that Levelled Beams and Rafter Adaptors are not included in the price of
your awning.
See figure 1.
Figure 1
If your eaves are cantilevered on both sides, the corners of the eaves are not strong
enough to support the awning. See Figure 2
Figure 2
This means that your awning cannot be wider than the wall, even if the eaves are
wider than the wall and you had planned the installation under eaves. See figure 3.
Figure 3

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3.3. Unpacking the awning
Make sure that the weight of the Awning is towards the ground (gravity will help this
process). Unscrew and remove completely all 12 screws; 4 at each end of the tube and also
the 4 screws of the hardware compartment; put them aside for storage. Make sure that all
screws are removed since they may damage the awning if left on the tube. Once the
screws are removed, remove the end caps and the accessory compartment cover.
Afterwards, cut and remove the two green straps and pull the awning out of the tube, on
your lawn or on a canvas. A second person will be needed to safely perform this
operation.
Rest the awning on stands, on a canvas (tarp) or two stable chairs with the brackets and
the hand crank upwards. Remove the accessories packed on the awning. Carefully
remove the plastic wrapping, there is a groove behind the awning, this is the place to
insert the security knife. Do not use a regular knife or exacto as this can damage the
awning.
CAUTION: The Athena’s arms are spring-loaded and could open without warning. They
were closed in the factory, but if damaged during transportation, they could abruptly
open while being unwrapped.
3.4. Parts list
Wrapped on the Awning:
1 hand crank
In the box:
1 remote control (if motorised)
1 wind sensor (if motorised,
installed inside the front bar and
only visible when the Awning is
opened)
10’-13’
3 brackets (wall or soffit)
6 lag bolts (3/8’’ x 4’’)
6 masonry bolts
3 sets of retainer hardware (bolt,
nut and washer)
6 washers (3/8’’)
14’-16’
4 brackets (wall or soffit)
8 lag bolts (3/8’’ x 4’’)
8 masonry bolts
4 sets of retainer hardware (bolt,
nut and washer)
8 washers (3/8’’)
17’-20’
6 brackets (wall or soffit)
12 lag bolts (3/8’’ x 4’’)
12 masonry bolts
6 sets of retainer hardware (bolt,
nut and washer)
12 washers (3/8’’)

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4. Overview and anchors
In this section, we will be examining the installation procedure. Installation of the anchors
can be done by one person, but you will need at least one other person to install the
awning onto its anchors. The installation of the anchors is the crucial portion of work that
requires the most time and attention to details.
4.1. Siding walls made of wood, vinyl or aluminum
For all buildings with wooden structures, and sidings that cannot support awnings, wooden
screws must be solidly anchored into a structural part of the house.
4.1.1. Where to install
Installation height
Do make certain to leave at least 9 1/2’’ between the top of the brackets and the bottom of
the eaves. See figure 4.
Figure 4
Your awning’s pitch (angle) is pre-set at the highest possible position at the factory with an
approximate drop of 15‘’ from the top of the wall bracket to the lowest point at the front bar
of the awning. For example : If you mount the Awning on the wall at 9’ from the deck or patio,
the lowest point at the bottom of the front bar of the fully opened awning will be 7’9”. See
figure 5. If the need be, the pitch can be re-adjusted, see section 7.A.

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Figure 5
Measure up from the deck/patio floor on one side and make a mark at your desired mounting
height less 1” (should be at least 96” inches but we recommend 108”).
Make a second mark at 9.5” below the first mark. The space between these marks must be
clear of all obstructions (light fixtures, etc.) on the wall. Using a chalk line or a string, snap a
line on the lower mark for the full length of the awning. The bottom of the wall bracket will
rest on the lower line.
If you decide to install a soffit bracket on the wall, the top of the soffit bracket can touch the
eaves.
Width
With a chalk line, mark vertically the middle point as well as both left and right extremities
of the awning. Then, mark 2 horizontal lines with 9.5” space between, the limits of the
installation zone, right on the mounting height and bottom mark. You`ll get the awning
mounting area showing a rectangle sizes of the width of the awning x 9.5” high.
Refer to figure 6 to choose the position of the brackets. These positions are approximate;
brackets must always be installed into studs or a structural part of the house.

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Figure 6
4.1.2. Finding the studs, joists or headers
You must now locate the studs, joists or headers in the area in which each screw must be
anchored and similarly to where the holes of the brackets must be drilled, as explained
below.

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4.1.2.1 Method A
Your brackets will be installed within the length of the awning, in the positions
indicated on figure 6, depending on the size of the awning.
If your Awning will be installed on a wall which has a window or a door, use this
opportunity to locate the studs in your home and transfer those measurements to the
outside:
Use a roll of masking tape. From the inside of your home, upon the wall that your
Awning will be installed, place a strip (about 6’’ strip) of masking tape vertically on the
windowpane.
Now using a stud finder locate the stud on the same inside wall and mark the center of
the stud. Measure from the tape or the door to the center of the stud, and write the
measurement down. Continue to locate the additional studs and record those
measurements.
On the outside wall, using the inside measurements, measure from the tape or the door
to the location of the center of the studs. Mark the center of each stud on which a bolts
will be fixed with a 6 1/2’’ vertical line.
NOTE: To facilitate the mounting of the awning on its brackets, it is very important that
the line be straight and properly leveled.
CAUTION: PROPER INSTALLATION OF THE WALL BRACKETS IS THE MOST CRITICAL
ASPECT OF THE AWNING MOUNTING. IT IS CRITICAL THAT ALL BOLTS BE FASTENED TO
STUDS, JOISTS, HEADERS OR OTHER MAJOR STRUCTURAL PARTS OF YOUR WALL.
Even a moderate wind exerts great force on the Awning and the wall support
brackets. This is why it is important that all brackets be fastened properly and
securely. Proper location will also make it easier to insert the pre-assembled Awning
into the supporting brackets.
WARNING: FAILURE TO SECURELY FASTEN ALL REQUIRED SCREWS TO FIX THE
BRACKETS TO THE WALL COULD RESULT IN THE COLLAPSE OF THE AWNING AND
CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
NOTE: The majority of constructions have a spacing of 16” between the wall studs,
but some of the more recent constructions will have 24” spacing between the wall
studs.

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4.1.2.2 Method B:
To find the studs if the above method (method A) does not work, you will have to lift your
siding (using a Zip Tool). The insulation material often ends with a stud; test this location by
hammering a long nail, screwing in a long screw or by drilling a small hole. A Zip Tools will
permit you to lift the siding without damaging it.
When defining the location of your brackets, the wall may be uneven or slightly
curved/arched. In this case, you will have to use more shims depending on the location of
the brackets. It is critical that your brackets be level both on the depth and on the height.
See figure 7.
Figure 7
4.1.3. Shims and solidity
Sidings, corrugated metal, stucco, decorative bricks and wood often have some empty
space between the structural components and the siding. If the Awning crushes the siding,
the latter can move. If the awning moves, the result will be an uneven installation, the
awning falling off and therefore cause personal injurie as well as material damages to the
wall and awning.
In order to have a solid installation, use appropriate shims. A good way to shim the
brackets is to use tubular spacers or washers, either nylon or metal.
The spacer can be installed on top of the siding if a sufficiently large surface is in direct
contact against a solid surface. Otherwise, the spacer can be installed underneath the
siding where a hole can be cut into the siding for the spacer to be inserted in.
See figure 8.
Figure 8

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Decide if the spacer should go on top, under or through the siding.
If the spacer goes on top of the siding, it is important that it is resting against a solid
surface. The shim or spacer should NEVER rest on fiberboard (ten-test), insulating foam or
mineral wool.
If there is sheet insulation, fiberboard or mineral wool in between the bracket location and
solid surface, remove a square of the insulation material and replace it with a piece of
solid wood on top of the solid surface (wood etc.). That piece of wood needs to be well
attached and will serve to support the spacer or the bracket. Be careful, there is often a
forense on top of the fiberboard, wider than the stud. The lag bolt MUST be installed in
the stud, not just in the piece of wood and not just in the forense. Probe the chosen spot
with a small drill bit before installing, this will avoid shattering the stud by drilling too close
to its edge. See figure 9.
.
Figure 9
IT IS MANDATORY TO PUT CAULKING AROUND THE SPACERS OR SHIMS TO PREVENT
WATER INFILTRATION.

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4.1.4. Brackets installation
Once the studs, joist or headers have been found and the appropriate shims have been
chosen comes the installation of the brackets.
4.1.4.1. Brackets
Make sure that every single bracket necessary is installed exactly in the middle of a stud.
Use 3/16‘’ drill bit to drill 3” deep holes throughout the siding and the shims into the
studs or joists. Doing so will help to prevent the studs from splitting or eroding while
doing the installation of the lag bolts.
Using a drill or a ratchet wrench, install the brackets with the 3/8’’ x 4 ‘’ lag bolts. Use the
included washers between the heads of the bolts and the brackets. While tightening the
bolts, use a level to keep the bracket to level.
Do not over tighten the bolts as this could split the wooden structure or weaken the
bolt.
4.2. Masonry
This installation method is meant for solid brick walls (this excludes all types of decorative
brick) where the masonry brick anchors/ties are in perfect order. If the brick wall is weak,
you will need to find studs, and you might need to purchase longer lag bolts than those
supplied with the awning. If this is the case, consult a certified contractor since you will need
to use shims to prevent crushing the bricks against the studs while tightening.
WARNING: SOME BRICK WALLS MIGHT NOT BE STRONG ENOUGH TO SAFELY SUPPORT AN
AWNING. THE SUPPLIED FASTENERS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO ATTACH THE CERTAIN TYPES
OF BRICK WALLS OR ONTO DECORATIVE BRICKS. IF THIS IS THE CASE, CONSULT A CERTIFIED
CONTRACTOR FOR PROPER MOUNTING. SOME CONSTRUCTIONS WILL REQUIRE MORE
SCREWS WHICH ARE NOT INCLUDED WITH YOUR AWNING.
You will need to install shims if the brick surface is uneven.

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Figure 10
4.2.1. Choosing the position
Make sure to leave at least a 9 1/2’’ space between the bottom of the brackets and the
eave. The awning is higher than the bracket.
IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER INSTALL BRACKETS ON THE TOP 4 ROWS OF BRICKS NEAR
THE ROOF SINCE THESE ROWS ARE NOT STRONG ENOUGHT TO SUPPORT THE
AWNING.
4.2.2. Installation on bricks
Based on the awning size chart (see figure 6), choose the correct position to install on
bricks. It is more important to ensure a secure bracket installation than following exactly
the position on the drawing.
Ensure also that all the bolts are inserted at least 1/2” from the brick edges and that the
brackets do not interfere with the arm support position. Place each bracket at the right
height, using the bottom chalk line and trace every bracket and every hole position while
making sure that the brackets are level.
WARNING: The provided masonry fasteners cannot be used in the joint between two
bricks. Install them in the brick body, not within 1/2” an edge of the brick. The fasteners
are also not designed for hollow surfaces. Visit a hardware store for proper fasteners
that must be used for your type of installation.
Do not use supplied fasteners on stucco walls.

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4.2.3. Installation
4.2.3.1. Brackets
WARNING: The holes must be drilled in two separate steps. Not following these steps may
result in holes that are too large. Masonry bolts will not be anchored properly if the holes
are too large.
While making sure they are level, put in position the first bracket at the required height (in
reference to the lower chalk line). Locate the brick joints and mark the area where the screws will
hold the bracket while respecting the minimal distance between the edge of the brick and the
bracket holes. Repeat the same operation for all the brackets.
First, use a 1/8‘’ masonry drill bit to drill holes 3’’ deep throughout the masonry or the
concrete wall.
Afterwards, use a 3/8‘’ drill bit to drill holes 3’’ depth throughout the masonry or the concrete
wall. While drilling, ensure that the drill bit is as stable as possible. This will prevent the holes
from having a flared shape or from becoming too large. See figure 11.
Figure 11
Using a 9/16‘’ socket, install the brackets. Use the 3/8’’ x 4’’ bolts and the flat washers
provided under the head of the screw to do so. While tightening the bolts, keep the bracket
level using a level. Do not overtighten the masonry bolts; doing so may erode the wall or
weaken the bolt.
WARNING: YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT THE MASONRY BOLTS ARE WELL ANCHORED IN
THE HOLES. IF NOT, REMOVE THEM AND VISIT A HARDWARE STORE FOR APPROPRIATE
MASONRY BOLTS.

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4.3 Under Soffit or Eaves
It is imperative to properly evaluate the distance between the trusses or joists and the
soffit cover or other decorative siding in order to choose appropriate shims. It is often
easier to find structural support close to the end of the eaves than close to the wall.
The following instructions are for eaves or soffits that are PERFECTLY HORIZONTAL AND
LEVEL. For slanted eaves or rafters, it might be necessary to use an adapter or angled
shims.
4.3.1. Choosing the position
Using the chalk line, draw a straight horizontal line under the eaves and longer than the
length of the awning. This line represents the rear of the bracket. The brackets are 3.22”
deep.
When drawing your line under the eaves, consider that when retracted, the awning will
still extend 10" forward from the chalk line. See figure 12.
Figure 12
NOTE: To facilitate the installation of the awning on the brackets, it is very important to
make the line perfectly straight.
CAUTION: PROPER LOCATION OF THE BRACKETS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF THE
AWNING MOUNTING. IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU FASTEN ALL THE SCREWS TO THE RAFTERS
OR OTHER MAJOR STRUCTURAL ELEMENTS.
Even a moderate wind exerts great force on the Awning and the brackets. This is why it is
MOST IMPORTANT THAT THE BRACKETS BE FASTENED PROPERLY AND SECURELY.

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4.3.2. Finding the trusses, joists or rafters
Now, locate the structural parts in the awning mounting area. You will probably have to
remove some of the soffit or decorative covering from your eaves. Mark with a 6” line, down
the center of each rafter on which a bracket will be installed.
Based on the awning size chart, choose the correct position to install on the rafters or
trusses. It is more important to ensure secure bracket installation than following exactly
the position on the drawing. See Figure 6.
Using brackets and chalk lines, choose the final location of the awning. Make sure that EACH
AND EVERY REQUIRED SCREW IS POSITIONED AT THE CENTER OF THE RAFTERS.
4.3.3. Shims and solidity
Sometimes, there is a good distance between the soffit or other decorative cover and the
trusses. To make absolutely certain that you have a solid installation, use appropriate shims.
A good way to shim the anchors is to use tubular metal spacers, metal or nylon washers-
spacers can also be used. If the distance is too large between trusses, it will be preferable
to install a 2” X 6” beam for the whole length of the awning, or a combination of spacers
and the beam. Be sure all your shims are very solid. The greater the distance, there is a higher
risk the spacers will move if narrow.
4.3.4. Bracket installation
Using a 3/16“drill bit, drill all the pilot holes into the rafters to about 3 1/2” deep. This will
help to prevent the fraying from splitting while installing the lag screws.
See figure 13.
Figure 13

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4.3.4.1. Brackets
Using a 9/16” socket, install the brackets levelled with the 3/8” X 4” long lag screws. Use the
flat washer provided under the head of the screw. While tightening the lag bolts, keep the
brackets levelled (use the level if needed). Do not overtighten the lag screws; doing so may
split the wood framing or weaken the screw.
If necessary, use shims or spacers.
WARNING: YOU MUST SECURELY FASTEN ALL THE SCREWS TO THE RAFTERS. SOME HOMES
MAY REQUIRE MORE LAG BOLTS, OR LONGER ONES. PLEASE CONSULT A CERTIFIED
CONTRACTOR IF YOU ARE IN DOUBT. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN COLLAPSE OF
THE AWNING AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY AS WELL AS MATERIAL DAMAGE.