MyLocoSound Valdora User manual

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MYLOCOSOUND
LARGE SCALE DIESEL LOCOMOTIVE KIT
1.OVERVIEW
16mm to the foot scale model of an 0-4-0 Sugar Cane locomotive.
Easy glued assembly.
Heavy, high quality motor, gears and steel chassis for a long life.
Will pull dead G scale, live steam locomotives back to base.
Available with manual or radio speed control.
Customer needs to add:
oNine AAA rechargeable batteries.
oCouplers.
oPaint.
oOption to add drop in RCS radio control and MyLocoSound sound.
2. THE PROTOTYPE
Valdora is an 0-4-0 diesel locomotive
manufactured in Sydney by E.M. Baldwin
in 1965 as serial number 6/1258.1.
The locomotive worked its life at the
Moreton Sugar Mill in Nambour,
Queensland, Australia. It was often
coupled to its sister locomotive,
Maroochy and operated back-to-back
from one cab using multiple unit
controls.
Valdora weighs 8 tons and has a diesel
mechanical transmission. She was
modified several times, the addition of
an enclosed cab being the most
significant.
The kit depicts Valdora as she is today running on the tourist railway in Bundaberg, Queensland.

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3. THE MODEL
The photo shows the Valdora kit finished in the prototype colours and an alternative colour scheme chosen
by a customer.
4. WHAT YOU NEED
We recommend the following be acquired to build this kit:
Selleys Interior Aquadhere or Craft glue for the mdf components.
Micro Kristal Klear adhesive for attaching the windows.
5 min Araldite glue
2mm and 1.5mm Allen keys for chassis assembly.
Dulux DuraMax spray undercoat and your choice of top coat colours.
A hobby paintbrush and a small pot of red paint for the lifting brackets on the buffer beam.
Any superglue to attached ABS 3D printed components to the mdf components.
Nine AAA rechargeable batteries. We suggest 900mah NiMh Fujitsu.
Whatever couplers you prefer. For Kadee, the buffer beams are pre-drilled for #779 sill
mounted pocket couplers.
Grease for the gears. Castrol LM or similar auto gear grease.
Elastic bands to hold components together while the glue sets.
Spray putty from auto accessory shops to make it easier to smooth 3D printed components.

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4. BUILDING THE CHASSIS
If you wish to paint the flycranks and coupling rods then it is best to do so before assembly.
Use a 2mm Allen key to assemble the chassis as follows:
1. Using a flat surface, attach the four spacers to one side frame with the larger ends of the axle
bearings pointing outwards. Each spacer has a tapped hole in the centre. The holes in the upper
spacers need to point vertically. The holes in the lower spacers need to point horizontally.
2. Insert the motor support into the slot in that side frame with the motor pointing downwards.
3. Attach the other side frame to the brass spacers, ensuring that the motor support is fully engaged
in its slot. Check that the motor does not wobble. If it does then apply a drop of Loctite 601 to the
outside of the slots, let it seep into the gaps and then wipe off the excess after about ten minutes.
4. Attach the brass spacer to that side frame with the curved cut out facing downwards over the
motor.

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Use the 1.5mm Allen key to assemble the wheels:
1. Attach a bevel gear wheel to the motor spindle so that it is pushed up against the motor case.
2. Thread an axle through the unpowered bearings. Place the wheels loosely onto the axle between
the frames. Place the fly cranks onto each end of the axle and lock them in place so that they
rotate freely with very little side play. Note that the grub screw engages with the flat surface of
the axle.
3. Repeat for the powered axle but include the bevel gear wheel between the wheels. After fixing
the fly cranks, fix the bevel gear wheel in place and adjust the motor bevel gear so that they are
fully engaged with the motor gear with a small amount of play between them.
4. Set the wheels in place using by tightening their grub screws on to the axle flats. The back to back
distance should be 41mm for 45mm gauge and 28mm for 32mm gauge.
5. Place a washer on each crank pin and then the coupling rod. Lock in place by snapping an e-clip
into the groove in each crank pin.
6. Apply Castrol LM or similar auto gear grease to the gear wheels and a light machine oil to the axle
bearings.
Important
Note that all but the smallest mdf components have a number etched on them which is
referred to in the assembly instructions below as #1, #2, etc.
Most of the components are reversible. Always assemble them so that the etched numbers
are facing inwards so that they are not visible through the paint.
The ABS plastic components have been 3D printed and will have fine ridges on their surface.
These should be sanded off. We recommend using Spray Putty from auto accessory shops to
obtain a smooth surface quickly.
If any part gets damaged during construction, let us know and we arrange a replacement.

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5. BUILDING THE FOOTPLATE AND BUFFER BEAMS
The footplate and buffer beams are assembled as follows:
1. Glue the four chassis support strips (#13) to either surface of the footplate so that the hole in
the support strip align with the hole in the footplate floor (#10). Two support strips go on top of
each other at each end. Insert a 3mm bolt into both holes to ensure alignment until the glue has
set.
2. Glue the edges of the side frames (#11) to the same surface of the footplate (#10) as the
support strips. Ensure that the side frames are flush with the edges of the footplate. Rest the
slots in the buffer beams (#12) over the side frames to ensure that the spacing is correct.
3. Glue the buffer beams (#12) in place.
4. Glue the four lifting brackets into the slots in each buffer beam.
5. Sand any misaligned joints and then paint the assembled footplate and buffer beams. Primer
first and then the yellow (or your chosen colour) top coat.
6. Paint the four lifting brackets.
7. Cut out the warning stripes and attach to each buffer beam. You will need to use a hobby knife
to cut out the rectangular slots for each lifting bracket.
8. Paint the four 3D printed steps black.

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9. Use Superglue or Araldite to attach the four steps. There are two slots in each buffer beam into
which the longer end of each step will fit.
10. Attach the footplate to the chassis using two 3mm bolts down into the chassis end spacers.
11. The buffer beams are pre-drilled for Kadee #779 or centre buffer couplers. Open holes in the
warning stripes to suit and attach your chosen couplers.
12. Insert a 3mm bolt through the hole below each coupler and into the lower chassis spacer. These
ensure that heavy loads will not pull the buffer beam off.
6. BUILDING THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT
The engine compartment is assembled as follows:
1. Remove the bolts from the fixing strip (#4) and glue it into the slots in each of the two side
panels (#3) and (#5) as shown. Ensure that the ends of the fixing strip are flush with the outer
side panel surfaces and that the components are perpendicular to each other. Rest a roof rib on
the other end of the side panels to ensure that the sides are parallel.
2. Glue the front panel (#1) to the front edges of the side panels (#3). Note that the fixing strip is at
the lower, flat end of the front panel.
3. Glue on the roof ribs (#2), one at the rear and the others equally spaced along the length of the
side panels.
4. Using superglue or 5 min Araldite, attach the radiator grill centrally to the front panel with the
lower hinge flush with the bottom and the wider end uppermost.

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5. Take the brass wire and bend the sandpipes to fit in the two holes in each side panel and glue in
place using superglue or 5 min Araldite.
6. The sandboxes have holes in the filler cap and top
side for handles. Cut and bend the brass wire and
press them into the holes which may need to be
deepened with a small drill. If you prefer to have the
handles unpainted then do this after the sandboxes
have been painted. If you want the handles painted,
like the prototype, then inset the handles before
painting the sandboxes.
7. Use superglueor 5 min Araldite to attach the sandboxes to the engine compartment sides so
that the bottoms rest on the sand pipes attached earlier.
8. Sand any misaligned joints and then paint the assembled engine compartment. Primer first and
then the yellow (or your chosen colour) top coat. Also paint the engine compartment roof light
grey (or your chosen colour).
9. Paint the roof to the engine compartment and then attach using 5 min Araldite and hold in
place while setting using elastic bands on each rib. Make sure that the hole for the air cleaner is
nearest the front.
10. If you are using radio control then glue the air
cleaner into the hole in the engine compartment
roof.
11. Prime and paint the engine access hatches black (or
your chosen colour).
12. Using 5 min Araldite, glue the mesh to the back of
the hatches, trim the edges with a hobby knife and then glue both hatch assemblies to the
engine compartment sides.
13. Using a fine black pen, run it down the grooves in the radiator grill to simulate the air gaps.
14. Glue the short exhaust pipe into the side of the silencer and the long exhaust pipe into the top.
Paint and glue into the side of the engine compartment.

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7. BUILDING THE CAB
The cab is assembled as follows:
1. Glue the fixing tabs (#23) into each side wall (#21) ensuring that the etched 21 numbers are on
the inside.
2. Glue the side walls (#21) to the cab front (#27) to the cab assembly. Ensure that the slots at the
bottom are fully mated with the fixing tabs (#23).
3. Glue the rectangular spacer (#22) to the side and front panels before their glue fully sets so that
it makes them square. Note that the two sides of the spacer are different lengths and it should
be orientated to match the side.
4. Glue the control panel top (#29) horizontally between the two walls and flush with the bottom
of the front windows.
5. Glue the control panel front (#25) vertically between the side walls and to the underside of the
control panel top (#29).
6. Glue the rear panel (#20) to the side walls (#21).

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7. Glue the side doors (#24) to the inside of the rear wall (#20) ensuring that they are as far up as
they will go. They will be in contact with the underside of the spacer (#22). The engraved
numbers should face the back wall and the cut outs at the bottom of the doors should be to the
centre.
8. If you want the cab handrails to be
painted, like the prototype Valdora,
then bend and fit them now. If you
want them in unpainted brass then
fit them later. To make each
handrail, cut them to a length of
12mm more than the distance
between the holes and use needle
nose pliers to bend the ends to fit in
the holes each side of the cab door.
9. Sand any misaligned joints and then
paint the assembled cab. Primer first
and then the yellow (or your chosen
colour) top coat.
10. A self-adhesive control panel is included. Peel off the backing and attach it to the control desk
(#27 and #25).
11. Take each piece of glazing and peel the protective lining off. Glue each window in place ensuring
that they are pushed back into the rear of each opening. The front and back windows have a
lining which should be painted before being glued with Krystal Klear to each front and back
window. The side window also have frames which should be painted before being glued to the
side windows.
12. Finally paint the roof light grey (or your chosen colour) and use superglue or 5min Araldite to fix
the roof to the assembled cab.
8. INSTALLING A MANUAL SPEED CONTROL
The manual speed control module is fully assembled and tested before shipping. There are just two
things you need to do. First purchase nine AAA Ni-Mh batteries and insert them into the holders
underneath the module. Then place the module onto the footplate.
Insert the throttle spindle through the hole in the engine compartment roof and attach the air cleaner to
the spindle.
11. INSTALLING THE RADIO CONTROL AND SOUND
The radio control and sound module are fully assembled and tested before shipping. All you need to do
is to purchase nine AAA Ni-Mh batteries and insert them into the holders underneath the module. Then
place the module onto the footplate.

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12. FINAL ASSEMBLY
1. Place the engine compartment onto the footplate and fix it loosely in place using two 3mm bolts under
the front. Then use superglue or 5 min Araldite to glue the engine compartment to the cab making sure
that the cab is correctly positioned on the footplate.
2. Connect the motor power leads plug and socket under the cab floor.
3. Use the two 3mm bolts provided, fix the cab to the footplate. Tighten all four bolts to secure the
engine compartment and the cab to the footplate.
13. RADIO CONTROL OPERATION
Always switch the transmitter on before the
locomotive.
The functions of the transmitter are shown in the
diagram.
The transmitter and locomotive have been “bound”
and set to work together before shipping. If the
locomotive fails to respond to the transmitter then
it is possible that “binding” has been lost. The
procedure to “re-bind” them is:
1. Turn the locomotive over and unplug the
motor wires.
2. Remove the four nuts which attach the body
to the cab floor.
3. You will find the binding plug on one pin of the
receiver. Attach it to all three pins as shown in the
photo.
4. Switch off the transmitter.
5. Switch on the locomotive.
6. Move the transmitter at least one metre away from
the locomotive, hold down engine start/stop button
and switch the transmitter on.
7. Keep the engine start/stop button held down until the
red light in the on/off switch stops flashing. That
shows that binding is complete.
8. Switch everything off.
9. Remove the binding plug and replace it on one pin of
the receiver so that you can find it next time.
10. Turn on the transmitter and then the locomotive and check that they are now communicating
correctly.
11. Reassemble the locomotive.
Binding plug in the storage position
on one pin.
Binding plug in the binding position
on three pins.