OLT 8x12 Santa Rosa User manual

8x12 Santa Rosa
Assembly Manual
with Plywood Roof
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today Partnership and any Authorized Dealers free
of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today Customer
Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our
commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge, within 10 business days of this
notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.
Thank you for purchasing
an 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden
Shed from Outdoor Living
Today. Please take the time
to identify all the parts prior
to assembly.
Safety Points and Other onsiderations:
Our products are built for use based
on proper installation and normal
residential use, on level ground. Please
follow the instruction manual when
building your Santa Rosa and retain
the manual for future maintenance
purposes.
Version #2.0
September 1st, 2020
Roof Area: 113 sqft

Outdoor Living Today Inc. www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Thank you for purchasing our 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Page 2
A. Floor Section
Floors
3 - 45 7/16” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames - Large
3 - 45 7/16” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames - Small
7 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8” - Floor Joists
1 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 18” - Short Floor Joist
10 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16” - Floor Runners
2 - 5/8” x 45 3/8” x 74 7/8” - Floor Plywood Large
2 - 5/8” x 45 3/8” x 20 7/8” - Floor Plywood Small
B. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
4 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Solid Wall Panels
4 - 1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Wall Plates
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Window Wall Panels
1 - 12” x 73” - Narrow Porch Wall Panel
1 - 2” x 3” x 45 1/2” - Door Header
1 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73” - Door Jamb
Porch
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Front Porch Extensions
2 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73 7/8” - Porch Posts
2 - 1 1/2” x 4” x 74 7/8” - Front Wall Supports
2 - 1” x 5 1/2” x 44” - Outer Deck Boards
3 - 40 1/2” x 33 1/2” - Handrail Sections
4 - Corner Brackets
15 - 1” x 5 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Deck Boards
Top Wall Plates & Gables
3 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32” - Rear Top Plates ( 2 angle cut ends)
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2’ x 67” - Side Top Plates (angle cut edge)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Front Top Plates Long (1 angle cut end)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 19” - Front Top Plates Short (1 angle cut end)
1 - 1” x 1” x 32” - Doorway Floor Transition Strip
2 - Rear Gable Half Walls
2 - 16” long and 7 1/2” long Rear Gable Filler Shingles
2 - Middle Gable Walls
C. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafter & Roof Assembly
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” - Ridge Board Long
2 - 3/4’ x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Ridge Board Short
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2” - Rafters
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” - Soffits
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 48” - Rafter Nailing Cleats
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Roof Gussets
4 - 5/8” x 48” x 72” - Roof Plywood Large
4 - 5/8” x 8 5/8” x 72” - Roof Plywood Small
D. Trim & Micellaneous Section Part 1
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 44” - Horizontal Above Door Trim
2 - 1/2” x 44 1/2” x 48 1/2” - Porch Ceiling Panels
2 - 1” x 1” x 45 1/2” - Porch Ceiling Support Strips
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 48” - Front Bottom Skirting
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Porch Side Bottom Skirting
6 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Rear/Side Bottom Skirting - Bevel
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Top Wall Trim - Bevel
2 - 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Rear Filler Trims
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 78 1/2” - Corner Trims
2 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 81 1/2” - Wide Corner Trims
2 - 7/8” x 1 1/2” x 78 1/2” - Narrow Filler Trims
4 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 78 1/2 ” - Narrow Trims
20 - 22
Steps
Steps
23 - 34
Steps
12 - 19
1 - 11
35 - 55
Parts List - Pages 2 and 3
56 - 66

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Advice: Wood has a tendancy to split when
screwing near the ends of a board. To prevent
splitting, it is always recommended to pre-drill
pilot holes before screwing into these areas.
Page 3
Parts list continued...
Continued
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Rear Wall Seam Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Porch & Door Trims
2 - 1/2’ x 2 1/2” x 45 7/8” - Porch Roof Seam Trims
1 - Small Porch Detail Plate
3 - Facia Detail Plates
E. Trim & Miscellaneous Part 2
Facia
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” - Roof Nailing Strips
2 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 23 1/4” - Front Post Detail Covers
1 - Gusset Gable
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 58” - Front & Rear Facia
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Side Facia
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 43 3/8” - Horizontal Gable Trims - Bevel
1 - Large Detail Plate
2 - Pentagon Detail Plate
Miscellaneous
4 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 42” - Short Deck Post with Ball
21 - Cedar Ridge Cap
1 - Short Cedar Ridge Cap
3 - Window Insert
3 - Window Trim Package
1 - Dutch Door with Hardware(Top & Bottom)
2 - Shim Shingle
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 35 1/4” - Horizontal Door Stop
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Vertical Door Stops
12 - 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 4” - Post Base Trims
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” - Handrail Support Blocks
3 - Flower Box Kits
Steps
80 - 92
67 - 70
Parts List - Page 3
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
71 - 79

8x12 SANTA ROSA - PLYWOOD ROOF HARDWARE SHEET
2 1/2”
2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
2”
3/4”
1 1/2”
1 1/2”
Tee Hinge x4 Pull Handle
Ridge Board Connector x 2
Silver
Shingle
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bits
Black Barrel Bolt
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Page 4
Interior Barrel Bolt
Finishing
x 260
x 235
x 35
x 315
x 27
x 23
x 5
x 465
x 2
Black Headed
Black Headed
Single Rafter
Bracket x 4
Double Rafter
Bracket x 2

Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 5

Flush
with
framing
Plywood Floor
Large (2)
Floor Runners
(10)
Plywood Floor
Small (2)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 136 1/2” deep x 96” wide.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists as illustrated above. Position Joists equally
in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine joist position. Position
Joist so flush with framing.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find the
Square Drive Screw Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag.
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Page 6
A. Floor Section
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
Parts (Steps 1 - 2)
Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 6
Large Floor Joist Frame x 3
Hardware (Steps 1 - 2)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 24 total
Floor Joist
Frames
Large (3)
Floor
Joists (7)
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Short Floor
Joist (1)
Floor Joist
Frames
Small (3)

96”
5. Complete all large and small frame attachments.
Screw each completed section together with
8 - 2 1/2” screws.
6. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
136 1/2”
3. Lay out Floor Joist Frames as illustrated.
There are 3 larger and 3 smaller Frame Sections.
The Footprint for the floor when attached together
will be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
4. Attach each large and small floor joist
frames together with 6 - 2 1/2” screws
per section.
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Page 7
Hardware (Step 4)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 18 total
Hardware (Step 5)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 16 total
Material used for Floor Runners are
not graded for appearance. Some
defect is allowed.
7. Attach Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
There are 2 floor runners per 136 1/2” side and 5
completed runners in total. Use 6 - 2 1/2” screws
per completed Runner.Make sure Runners are flush
with edge of floor framing, but not overhanging.
Parts (Steps 7)
Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” 68 3/16”) x 10
Hardware (Steps 7)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 30 total

9. Position Plywood Floor pieces (4) on top of completed floor
joists. Plywood will sit slightly back from outside edge of Floor
Joist Framing.
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of floor
joists to determine
screw placement.
Front
10. When in correct position, attach with 1 1/4” screws. Use
screws every 16”. The Plywood is cut slightly smaller than floor
framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
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Page 8
plywood
pushed together
at seam.
8. With Floor Runners
attached, carefully flip
the floor over and place
on your foundation.
Caution: you will need 2
people to assist you. Be
careful when laying floor
down not to bend or twist
it. When in place, level
floor completely.
Concrete Slab
Foundation
centered on
floor frame.
Note: The floor will be flipped over and
floor runners will sit on your foundation.
It is important to note that having a
level foundation is critical. Choosing a
foundation will vary between regions.
Typical foundations can be concrete
pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
11. Place remaining 71 3/4” Floor Joist and 18” Short Floor Joist in
floor cavity. Attach to floor frame with 4 - 2 1/2” screws for the long joist
and 2 - 2 1/2” screws for the short joist. These extra joists will make a
larger attachment surface for the patio deck boards in Step 22.
Important: Make sure floor
is level before moving on
to wall section. Use a level
to confirm and shim floor
joists as required.
Hardware (Step 10)
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 75 total
Hardware (Step 11)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 6 total
Parts (Steps 11)
Short Floor Joist
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” 18”) x 1
Floor Joist
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 1

Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the
Wall Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
12. Lay out all the wall
panels and become familiar
with their location. On
Standard Kits, there are
3 Window Wall Panels,
4 Solid Wall Panels, and
1 Narrow Porch Wall
Panel. Make sure to posi-
tion panels right side up so
water is directed away from
and not into shed. Look at
window wall panels to deter-
mine proper wall orienta-
tion.
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Page 9
B. Wall Section
Door Jamb (1)
Bottom Wall
Plates (4)
Rear Gable Filler
Shingles (2)
Rear Gable
Walls (2)
Rear Top
Plates (3)
Side Top
Plates (4)
Angle cut on edge
Middle Gable
Walls (2)
Narrow Wall
Panel (12” wide)
Front Top
Plates (2)
Door
Header (1)
Front Wall Trim/Supports (2)
Left & Right Side Config.
Solid Wall
Panels (4)
Top Plate Front
Extension (2)
Corner
Brackets (4)
Long Porch
Posts (2)
Handrail
Section (2)
Outer Deck
Boards (2)
Porch Deck
Boards (15)
Window Wall
Panel (3)
Bottom
Wall Plate
Door
Jamb Door
Header

14. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. Depending on your
preference, you may use a solid or window wall panel in this position. If using a solid wall, make
sure panel is facing up. Side Wall panels will sit flush to the end of the plywood floor with the Rear
Wall panels sandwiched between them. Position the side wall panel so the wall framing is flush
with the floor framing. Floor plywood will be flush or slightly recessed from the wall/floor framing.
Note: Wall Siding will not be flush with floor frame, it will overhang by approximately 3/4”.
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Page 10
13. Starting with All Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel face down.
Position and attach Bottom Wall Plates to bottom of wall studs of each wall
panel with 3 - 2 1/2” screws. Position so Wall Plates are flush with framing.
Bottom Wall Plate
Important: Make sure
all walls are aligned in
their upright position. If
not, water may leak into
your playhouse. Unsure
if panel is facing up or
down? check siding on
window wall panel to
match alignment.
Outside 2x3 Plate of wall panel is flush with
outside of floor frame when properly
aligned. Floor plywood may be slightly
recessed.
Side Wall Panel
Parts (Steps 13)
Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 4
Solid Wall Panels x 4
Hardware (Steps 13)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 12 total