OLT 8x12 Santa Rosa User manual

8x12 Santa Rosa
Assembly Manual
with Plywood Roof
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today Partnership and any Authorized Dealers free
of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
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Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today Customer
Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our
commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge, within 10 business days of this
notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.
Thank you for purchasing
an 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden
Shed from Outdoor Living
Today. Please take the time
to identify all the parts prior
to assembly.
Safety Points and Other onsiderations:
Our products are built for use based
on proper installation and normal
residential use, on level ground. Please
follow the instruction manual when
building your Santa Rosa and retain
the manual for future maintenance
purposes.
Version #2.0
September 1st, 2020
Roof Area: 113 sqft

Outdoor Living Today Inc. www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Thank you for purchasing our 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Page 2
A. Floor Section
Floors
3 - 45 7/16” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames - Large
3 - 45 7/16” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames - Small
7 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8” - Floor Joists
1 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 18” - Short Floor Joist
10 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16” - Floor Runners
2 - 5/8” x 45 3/8” x 74 7/8” - Floor Plywood Large
2 - 5/8” x 45 3/8” x 20 7/8” - Floor Plywood Small
B. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
4 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Solid Wall Panels
4 - 1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Wall Plates
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Window Wall Panels
1 - 12” x 73” - Narrow Porch Wall Panel
1 - 2” x 3” x 45 1/2” - Door Header
1 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73” - Door Jamb
Porch
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Front Porch Extensions
2 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73 7/8” - Porch Posts
2 - 1 1/2” x 4” x 74 7/8” - Front Wall Supports
2 - 1” x 5 1/2” x 44” - Outer Deck Boards
3 - 40 1/2” x 33 1/2” - Handrail Sections
4 - Corner Brackets
15 - 1” x 5 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Deck Boards
Top Wall Plates & Gables
3 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32” - Rear Top Plates ( 2 angle cut ends)
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2’ x 67” - Side Top Plates (angle cut edge)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Front Top Plates Long (1 angle cut end)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 19” - Front Top Plates Short (1 angle cut end)
1 - 1” x 1” x 32” - Doorway Floor Transition Strip
2 - Rear Gable Half Walls
2 - 16” long and 7 1/2” long Rear Gable Filler Shingles
2 - Middle Gable Walls
C. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafter & Roof Assembly
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” - Ridge Board Long
2 - 3/4’ x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Ridge Board Short
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2” - Rafters
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” - Soffits
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 48” - Rafter Nailing Cleats
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Roof Gussets
4 - 5/8” x 48” x 72” - Roof Plywood Large
4 - 5/8” x 8 5/8” x 72” - Roof Plywood Small
D. Trim & Micellaneous Section Part 1
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 44” - Horizontal Above Door Trim
2 - 1/2” x 44 1/2” x 48 1/2” - Porch Ceiling Panels
2 - 1” x 1” x 45 1/2” - Porch Ceiling Support Strips
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 48” - Front Bottom Skirting
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Porch Side Bottom Skirting
6 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Rear/Side Bottom Skirting - Bevel
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Top Wall Trim - Bevel
2 - 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Rear Filler Trims
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 78 1/2” - Corner Trims
2 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 81 1/2” - Wide Corner Trims
2 - 7/8” x 1 1/2” x 78 1/2” - Narrow Filler Trims
4 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 78 1/2 ” - Narrow Trims
20 - 22
Steps
Steps
23 - 34
Steps
12 - 19
1 - 11
35 - 55
Parts List - Pages 2 and 3
56 - 66

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Advice: Wood has a tendancy to split when
screwing near the ends of a board. To prevent
splitting, it is always recommended to pre-drill
pilot holes before screwing into these areas.
Page 3
Parts list continued...
Continued
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Rear Wall Seam Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Porch & Door Trims
2 - 1/2’ x 2 1/2” x 45 7/8” - Porch Roof Seam Trims
1 - Small Porch Detail Plate
3 - Facia Detail Plates
E. Trim & Miscellaneous Part 2
Facia
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” - Roof Nailing Strips
2 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 23 1/4” - Front Post Detail Covers
1 - Gusset Gable
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 58” - Front & Rear Facia
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Side Facia
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 43 3/8” - Horizontal Gable Trims - Bevel
1 - Large Detail Plate
2 - Pentagon Detail Plate
Miscellaneous
4 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 42” - Short Deck Post with Ball
21 - Cedar Ridge Cap
1 - Short Cedar Ridge Cap
3 - Window Insert
3 - Window Trim Package
1 - Dutch Door with Hardware(Top & Bottom)
2 - Shim Shingle
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 35 1/4” - Horizontal Door Stop
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Vertical Door Stops
12 - 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 4” - Post Base Trims
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” - Handrail Support Blocks
3 - Flower Box Kits
Steps
80 - 92
67 - 70
Parts List - Page 3
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
71 - 79

8x12 SANTA ROSA - PLYWOOD ROOF HARDWARE SHEET
2 1/2”
2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
2”
3/4”
1 1/2”
1 1/2”
Tee Hinge x4 Pull Handle
Ridge Board Connector x 2
Silver
Shingle
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bits
Black Barrel Bolt
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Page 4
Interior Barrel Bolt
Finishing
x 260
x 235
x 35
x 315
x 27
x 23
x 5
x 465
x 2
Black Headed
Black Headed
Single Rafter
Bracket x 4
Double Rafter
Bracket x 2

Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?
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Page 5

Flush
with
framing
Plywood Floor
Large (2)
Floor Runners
(10)
Plywood Floor
Small (2)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 136 1/2” deep x 96” wide.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists as illustrated above. Position Joists equally
in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine joist position. Position
Joist so flush with framing.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find the
Square Drive Screw Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag.
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Page 6
A. Floor Section
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
Parts (Steps 1 - 2)
Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 6
Large Floor Joist Frame x 3
Hardware (Steps 1 - 2)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 24 total
Floor Joist
Frames
Large (3)
Floor
Joists (7)
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Short Floor
Joist (1)
Floor Joist
Frames
Small (3)

96”
5. Complete all large and small frame attachments.
Screw each completed section together with
8 - 2 1/2” screws.
6. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
136 1/2”
3. Lay out Floor Joist Frames as illustrated.
There are 3 larger and 3 smaller Frame Sections.
The Footprint for the floor when attached together
will be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
4. Attach each large and small floor joist
frames together with 6 - 2 1/2” screws
per section.
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Page 7
Hardware (Step 4)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 18 total
Hardware (Step 5)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 16 total
Material used for Floor Runners are
not graded for appearance. Some
defect is allowed.
7. Attach Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
There are 2 floor runners per 136 1/2” side and 5
completed runners in total. Use 6 - 2 1/2” screws
per completed Runner.Make sure Runners are flush
with edge of floor framing, but not overhanging.
Parts (Steps 7)
Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” 68 3/16”) x 10
Hardware (Steps 7)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 30 total

9. Position Plywood Floor pieces (4) on top of completed floor
joists. Plywood will sit slightly back from outside edge of Floor
Joist Framing.
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of floor
joists to determine
screw placement.
Front
10. When in correct position, attach with 1 1/4” screws. Use
screws every 16”. The Plywood is cut slightly smaller than floor
framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
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Page 8
plywood
pushed together
at seam.
8. With Floor Runners
attached, carefully flip
the floor over and place
on your foundation.
Caution: you will need 2
people to assist you. Be
careful when laying floor
down not to bend or twist
it. When in place, level
floor completely.
Concrete Slab
Foundation
centered on
floor frame.
Note: The floor will be flipped over and
floor runners will sit on your foundation.
It is important to note that having a
level foundation is critical. Choosing a
foundation will vary between regions.
Typical foundations can be concrete
pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
11. Place remaining 71 3/4” Floor Joist and 18” Short Floor Joist in
floor cavity. Attach to floor frame with 4 - 2 1/2” screws for the long joist
and 2 - 2 1/2” screws for the short joist. These extra joists will make a
larger attachment surface for the patio deck boards in Step 22.
Important: Make sure floor
is level before moving on
to wall section. Use a level
to confirm and shim floor
joists as required.
Hardware (Step 10)
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 75 total
Hardware (Step 11)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 6 total
Parts (Steps 11)
Short Floor Joist
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” 18”) x 1
Floor Joist
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 1

Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the
Wall Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
12. Lay out all the wall
panels and become familiar
with their location. On
Standard Kits, there are
3 Window Wall Panels,
4 Solid Wall Panels, and
1 Narrow Porch Wall
Panel. Make sure to posi-
tion panels right side up so
water is directed away from
and not into shed. Look at
window wall panels to deter-
mine proper wall orienta-
tion.
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Page 9
B. Wall Section
Door Jamb (1)
Bottom Wall
Plates (4)
Rear Gable Filler
Shingles (2)
Rear Gable
Walls (2)
Rear Top
Plates (3)
Side Top
Plates (4)
Angle cut on edge
Middle Gable
Walls (2)
Narrow Wall
Panel (12” wide)
Front Top
Plates (2)
Door
Header (1)
Front Wall Trim/Supports (2)
Left & Right Side Config.
Solid Wall
Panels (4)
Top Plate Front
Extension (2)
Corner
Brackets (4)
Long Porch
Posts (2)
Handrail
Section (2)
Outer Deck
Boards (2)
Porch Deck
Boards (15)
Window Wall
Panel (3)
Bottom
Wall Plate
Door
Jamb Door
Header

14. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. Depending on your
preference, you may use a solid or window wall panel in this position. If using a solid wall, make
sure panel is facing up. Side Wall panels will sit flush to the end of the plywood floor with the Rear
Wall panels sandwiched between them. Position the side wall panel so the wall framing is flush
with the floor framing. Floor plywood will be flush or slightly recessed from the wall/floor framing.
Note: Wall Siding will not be flush with floor frame, it will overhang by approximately 3/4”.
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Page 10
13. Starting with All Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel face down.
Position and attach Bottom Wall Plates to bottom of wall studs of each wall
panel with 3 - 2 1/2” screws. Position so Wall Plates are flush with framing.
Bottom Wall Plate
Important: Make sure
all walls are aligned in
their upright position. If
not, water may leak into
your playhouse. Unsure
if panel is facing up or
down? check siding on
window wall panel to
match alignment.
Outside 2x3 Plate of wall panel is flush with
outside of floor frame when properly
aligned. Floor plywood may be slightly
recessed.
Side Wall Panel
Parts (Steps 13)
Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 4
Solid Wall Panels x 4
Hardware (Steps 13)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 12 total

15. Position rear corner wall into place and attach together with
3 - 2 1/2” screws. Screw at the top, middle and bottom of 2x3
stud. Start positioning adjacent wall panels and fastening togeth-
er.
16. Be sure to correctly position wall panels so siding overhangs your floor and wall framing is flush
with floor framing. Continue to attach walls together as per Step 15.
17. When attaching front corner wall panel, make sure panel is nested inside the side panel. Line up
wall framing and secure at top, middle and bottom of wall studs.
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Page 11
Rear Wall Panel
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 24.
Optional: Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering.
Caulking not included in kit.
Rear Wall Panel
Hardware (Steps 15 - 18)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 21 total

18. To complete walls, attach the Narrow Porch Wall to
front wall panel. Note: the narrow wall is only 73” high.
Attach wall stud to adjoining wall with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
19. Attach Door Jamb to right side wall stud. When positioned correctly, the Jamb
will overhang the right side wall panel framing by 1/2”. When in correct position, secure
to wall stud with 4 - 2 1/2” screws. Align Door Header on top of Narrow wall framing
and on top of Door Jamb. See picture below. Secure with 4 - 2 1/2” screws.
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Page 12
1” overhang
Door Jamb
Side Wall
Door Header flush
with inside framing
1/2” recessed from
front of Door Jamb
PreDrill!
Parts (Steps 18)
Narrow Porch Wall x 1
Door Header
positioned with
Dado to front
and top.
Parts (Steps 19)
Door Jamb
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73”)
x 1
Door Header
(2” x 3” x 45 1/2”)
x 1
Hardware (Steps 19)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 8 total
Narrow Wall

20. Complete the 2 Porch Rail Sections,
following steps Athrough E.
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Page 13
Front Wall Trim/Supports
(with rabbeted edge)
Exploded View of Porch
Rail Section
A. Attach Front Porch Extension
(3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) to Long Porch
Post (3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73 7/8”) with
2 - 2” screws. Make sure support is
flush with post.
2 - 2”
screws
2 - 2”
screws
1/2” Protruding
Flush
B. Attach Front Wall Trim/Supports ( 1” x 4” x 74 7/8”) to Front
Extension using 2 - 2” screws. Make sure Front Extension is
Flush to back and thick side of Wall Trim/Supports, and 1/2” pro-
truding on thin side of Wall Trim/Supports
Front Wall
Trim/Supports
(with rabbeted edge) Rabbeted edges
mirrored and facing
toward each other.
PreDrill!
PreDrill!
Long
Porch
Post
Front Porch
Extension
Front Porch
Extension
Corner
Brackets
Hand Rail
Section
Long
Porch
Post
Outer Deck
Board

C. Attach Outer Deck Board (1” x 5 1/2” x 44”) to the Wall Trim/Support with
2 - 2 1/2” Screws fastened horizontally as shown above. Ensure Deck Board is flush
with the thick edge of the Wall Trim/Support.
Attach Outer Deck Board to the Long Porch Post with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws fastened
vertically as shown above. Ensure Deck Board is flush with corner of Long Porch Post.
Deck Board
2 - 2 1/2”
Screws
2 - 2 1/2”
Screws
Flush
Flush
PreDrill!
PreDrill!
Thick edge of
Wall Trim/Support
D. Attach a Hand Rail Section to the Long Porch Post. Hand Rail should start
3 1/2” from bottom of Post and be centered side-to-side. Use 3 - 2” Screws to
attach. Attach Hand Rail to Wall Trim/Support with 1 - 2” Screw for now, more
screws will be added when it is attached to the wall in Step 28.
3 1/2”
3 - 2”
Screws
PreDrill!
3 1/2”
1 - 2”
Screw
PreDrill!
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Page 14

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Page 15
E. Position Corner Bracket centered on the Long Porch Post as shown. Position opposite side
Corner Bracket in line with first. Attach each Corner Bracket with 3 - 2” Screws. Fasten two
screws down through Front Porch Extensions into Bracket, and the third screw horizontally
through the bottom of the Corner Bracket. Drill Pilot holes before screwing to prevent splitting.
Corner Bracket centered
on Long Porch Post.
3 - 2” screws
PreDrill!
3 - 2” screws
PreDrill!
Corner Bracket in line with
opposite side Bracket. This
will be off center on the
Front Wall Trim/Support.
Completed view of both Porch Rail Sections
Thick edge of Wall
Trim/Support
Thick edge of Wall
Trim/Support

21. With the Porch Rail Sections complete, attach
to the deck area as shown. Outer Deck Board will
be positioned flush with the Floor Frame in the front
corner. Fasten to Floor Joists with 4 - 2” Screws.
Pre-drill pilot holes before fastening screws.
Complete other side the same.
View from
below
Flush with Side
Wall Framing
Thin part of Wall Trim/Support
covers siding on Front Wall.
Flush with Floor
Framing
PreDrill!
Hardware (Steps 21)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 8 total
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Page 16

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Page 17
23. Prior to fastening walls and
installing rafters, take time to
confirm your walls are level,
square and plumb. Measure diag-
onal at top and bottom of walls
corner-to-corner. This should be
approximately 125 1/4”, but more
importantly if measurements are
not within 1/4”, your walls are not
square. Adjusting now will make
it easier to install roof section.
22. Attach remaining 15 Deck
Boards using 4 - 2” Screws per piece.
Equally space all deck boards before
attaching. Ensure screws enter the
floor joists beneath deck boards. Pre-
drill for screws at the ends of the deck
boards.
PreDrill!
Lay all Deck Boards
down evenly spaced
prior to attaching.
125 1/4”
125 1/4”
Check for plumb
Parts (Steps 22)
Deck Boards
(1” x 5 1/2” x 44 1/2”) x 15
Hardware (Steps 22)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 60 total

25. Position Rear Top Plates on top of wall studs
so they are flush on the inside with 2x3 wall stud.
The Top Plate is comprised of 3 pieces (2 outside
pieces with an angle cut on one end and a center
piece that is straight cut). Attach by screwing
down into top wall plate with 2 - 2” screws per
plate.
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Page 18
24. When all walls are attached together, check alignment with the floor. Bottom
wall plates should sit flush with outside of floor frame. When positioned correctly,
fasten bottom wall plates to floor using 4 - 2 1/2” screws per wall panel.
Wall Plate
32” wide
Confirm 32” Wide Door
Opening at Top and Bottom.
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.
Optional - Caulking seams will
help prevent moisture from
entering your shed.
Caulking not included in kit.
Top Plates should be flush
with inside of wall framing.
Angle cut
on ends.
Hardware (Steps 24)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 32 total
Parts (Steps 25)
Rear Top Plates
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32”) x 3
Hardware (Steps 25)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 6 total

27. Position the Front Top Plates on top of Door Header and
front wall panel. There are 2 plates (72” and 19” long). Front top
plates are straight cut on the ends. Once again, the plate will be
flush with inside of top wall framing. Attach with 6 - 2” screws
(4 screws in long and 2 in short plate).
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26. Attach the 4 Side Top Plates. The
side top plates are angle cut down the
length. Once again, position top plate on
wall plate so it is flush with inside of wall
plate. Side plate should also be flush with
rear wall plate. Secure with:
4 - 2” screws per rear piece.
1 - 2” screw & 3 - 1 1/4” screws per
front piece.
PreDrill! 4 - 2” Screws
1 - 2”
Screw
3 - 1 1/4” Screws
Flush
Parts (Steps 26)
Side Top Plates
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 67”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 26)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 10 total
Hardware (Steps 26)
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 6 total
Parts (Steps 27)
Front Top Plates
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 72” & 19”) x 2
Hardware (Steps 27)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 6 total

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Page 20
28. Attach Wall Trim/Supports to wall with 3 - 2 1/2” screws per side. Try to conceal screws if possible.
29. At the doorway of your shed there will be
a small gap between the deck boards and floor
plywood. Fill this gap with the Doorway Floor
Transition Strip - angle edge cut and attach
with 4 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails.
30. Locate both Rear Gable Wall
pieces. Rear Gables have shingles
that overhang the top and bottom of
the gable frame. Screw together with
3 - 2 1/2” screws.
Hardware (Steps 28)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 6 total
Parts (Steps 29)
Doorway Floor Transition Strip
(1” x 1” x 32”) x 1
Hardware (Steps 29)
N1 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails
x 4 total
Parts (Steps 30)
Rear Gable Walls x2
Hardware (Steps 30)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 3 total