OLT SS84-SLIDER-METAL-AK User manual

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Page 1
8x4 SpaceSaver
Sliding Door - Metal Roof - AK
Assembly Manual
Revision #1.1
January 12, 2022
Thank you for purchasing
a 8x4 SpaceSaver Shed with
Sliding Door. Please take
the time to identify all the
parts prior to assembly.
Please be aware that it is the
customers’ sole responsibility
to acquire the necessary
building permits and or obtain
approval from their local
county, municipality or HOA
prior to purchasing. Generally,
shed structures under 100
square feet do not require
permits in most jurisdictions
in the United States and
Canada.
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
Stock Code:
SS84-SLIDER-METAL-AK

What to do before my Shed arrives?
Become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can•
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor.
Clear the construcon area and ensure a clear pathway for delivery when•
the freight company arrives. Remove all debris: roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Excavate the site. Contact your local ulies company to ensure there are•
no gas or electric lines buried in the area before digging.
Decide on the type of foundaon you will be using:•
 Concrete slab, or
 46 inches of crushed gravel with paver stones or 4x4 stringers.
You can find the footprint for your shed on Page 3 of your Assembly Manual.
If doing the assembly yourself, have all the necessary tools ready to go and•
in working condion. A list of required tools can be found aer the parts list.
One helper is recommended to assist in construcng your shed.•
It generally takes two people two days to assemble a shed. If you’re hiring
a contractor, their rate should be in line with that duraon of work.
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Page 2

Foundation Types for 8x4 Garden Shed
Concrete Slab Foundation:
- Slab must be at least the same size as assembled floor frame (45 1/2” x 96”) or larger.
- 6” Deep foundation.
- 0.6 Cubic Yards of concrete required.
- A concrete slab will have the longest durability out of your foundation options.
Once level, a concrete slab is the easiest surface to build on.
Gravel with 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.0 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 9 wheelbarrows.
- 3 - 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers 8’ long required.
- Evenly spaced, with one at each end of floor frame.
Saves money on materials, easy to level and work with.
Gravel with Patio Paver Stones:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.0 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 9 wheelbarrows.
- 15 patio pavers (8” x 8” or larger).
- Center patio paver stones underneath floor runners and underneath seams in floor joists.
Patio paver stones are widely available from most landscape stores.
45 1/2”
96”
45 1/2”
96”
6” Deep
67 1/2”
108”
3 - 4”x4”x96”
15 Patio Stones
Floor FrameConcrete Foundation Completed Foundation
17 1/2”
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with treated stringers Completed Foundation
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with Patio Pavers Completed Foundation
67 1/2”
108”
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Page 3

Thank you for purchasing our 8x4 SpaceSaver Shed with Sliding Door.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Parts List:
A. Floor Section
1 - 45 ½” x 75” - Large Floor Frame (2 Joists unattached)
1 - 45 ½” x 21” - Small Floor Frame (2 Joists ATTACHED)
2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 71 7/8” - Floor Joists
(Steps 1 - 3)
2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners Short
3 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 47 ¾” - Floor Runners Long
(Steps 4 - 5)
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 75” - Plywood Flooring
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 21” - Plywood Flooring
(Steps 6 - 8)
B. Wall Section
5 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Bottom Wall Plates
4 - 45 ½” x 75” - Wall Panels
1 - 45 ½” x 73” - Front Wall Panel
(Steps 9 - 17)
1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 68 1/4” - Door Header - Long (Dado on edge)
1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 22 3/4” - Door Header - Short (Dado on edge)
1 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 73” - Door Jamb - Vertical
1 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 44” - Interior Door Header
(Steps 18 - 19)
2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extenders (L/R)
2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extenders (L/R)
2 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extenders
(Steps 20 - 27)
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 70” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 21” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
(Step 27)
C. Rafter & Roof Section
6 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
2 - 1” x 3 ½” x 48” - Front Soffits
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Rear Soffits
(Steps 31 - 36)
6 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 50” - Roof Battens
4 - ¾” x 1 ½” x 21 ½” - Batten Spacers
(Step 37 - 40)
2 - Rafter/Facia Nailing Strips - ¾” x ¾” x 51”
(Step 41)
3 - Metal Roof Panels - 39”w x 58 1/2”d
(Step 42 - 48)
Foam Enclosures for Metal Roof - Several Strips
(Step 47, 66)
D. Miscellaneous Section
(Skirting, Trim, Door, Facia & Misc. Parts)
4 - ¾” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel Siding)
2 - 3/4” x 4” x 45 1/4”) - Front Bottom Skirting (non Bevel)
(Steps 49 - 51)
6 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims
2 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 10” - Rear Top Corner Filler Trims
2 - 1/2” x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims - Front Left (Step 18)
(Steps 18 & 29 & 52)
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 78 ½” - Front Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Rear Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Front Corner Trims
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Rear Middle Trim
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Rear Corner Trims
(Steps 53 - 56)
Sliding Door Parts
1 - 49” x 73” - Sliding Door
1 - 71” long - Aluminum Door Track with Hanging Brackets
1 - 1 1/2” x 1 5/8” x 80 3/4” - Lower Door Track
1 - 3/4” x 3” x 87 3/4” - Lower Door Track Cover
2 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/4” x 3 1/2” - Lower Door Track Stops
1 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 66 1/4” - Door Stop
(Steps 57 - 62)
2 - ½” x 4” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends) - reverse
4 - ½” x 4” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia
(Steps 63 - 65)
2 - 60” long - Metal Ridge Caps
(Step 67)
1 - Detail Facia Plates (4” high)
(Step 68)
1 - 18” x 22 ½” - Window Insert
1 - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3 -23” straight cut - Window Trim Pkg
(Step 69 - 70)
1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding - Use if wall panel
siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
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Page 4

8x4 SPACESAVER WITH SLIDING DOOR HARDWARE PACKAGE
Door Handle x 1
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” & 1/2” Drill Bits
Utility Knife
2 1/2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
90° Metal
Bracket x 4
1 1/2”
Finishing Nail
175 Pcs.
140 Pcs.
12 Pcs.
245 Pcs.
Black Headed
Black Hasp x 1 Roller Assembly x 2
3” 15 Pcs.
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Page 5
1/4”x 2”
Metal Roof Screw
14 Pcs
x 1
1/4” Nut Driver
Metal Roof
Hanger x 3
x 1

Regular Maintenance & Tips to prolong the life of your shed.
Before/During Assembly:
1.) Paint each face and edge of your plywood floor with a latex exterior paint.
2.) Caulk wall seams if gaps appear.
3.) Caulk around window framing.
4.) Caulk perimeter between floor plywood and bottom wall plate.
5.) Caulk channels in lap siding at the top of your door above the trim, just a drop in each channel.
6.) Caulk edge of door threshold if applicable.
7.) Optional: Install a Sill Gasket between floor runners and foundation.
8.) Optional: Install an 8” strip of roofing paper below Cedar Ridge Caps for Cedar Roof Sheds.
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7.
Sill Gasket
Floor Joists
Floor Runner
Foundation
8.
Floor Plywood
Wall Panel
Small gap between
bevel siding and
window trim
Dab of caulking
Strip of roofing paper over
apex of roof panels
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Page 6
Routine Maintenance:
- Routinely check all fasteners are tight (ex. Door Hinges, Nails)
- Brush off dirt from walls.
- Brush off snow from roof regularly.
- Routinely remove needles and leaves from roof.
Painting/Staining
- Your cedar shed, if left untreated, will weather to a silvery grey color.
- Painting or staining your structure is highly recommended and will prolong the life of your shed.
- You do not need to wait to paint or stain your shed, the wood in your kit has been dried and can be
—stained or painted immediately.
- Consult your local paint store for the best paint or stain for cedar.
- Optional: stain the inside of your shed. (Note: this will remove the fresh cedar smell.)

Plywood Floor
Large Floor
Joist Frame
Floor Joists (2)
Floor Runners
Short (2)
Small Floor
Joist Frame
Exploded Floor Section
A. Floor Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete Floor Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting. Note: Floor Footprint is
96” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
Foundation Material
not included.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) as illustrated
above. Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to
determine joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
Flush
with
framing.
Front of GardenSaver
Door Location. Small Floor
Joist Frame.
You can find the
Square Drive Bit, for
the screws, in the
Hardware Kit Bag.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws (2 per end). You can find
the Square Drive Bit for the screws in with the Hardware Kit Bag.
Floor Runners
Long (3)
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3. With Floor Joist Frames positioned together
flush, attach with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws.
4th Runner
96”
45 1/2”
5. Align Floor Runners - Long (1 ½” x 3 ½” x 47 ¾”) evenly spaced as shown above and flush with
the back of the Floor Frame. On the front, Runners will extend 2” past the Floor Frame to provide sup-
port for the Sliding Door Track later in the Assembly. Attach with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner. Make
sure 4th Runner is placed equally over seam where floor frames meet.With Floor Runners attached,
carefully flip the floor over and place on your foundation. Caution - Be careful when laying floor down
not to bend or twist floor. Note: Having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary
between regions. Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio stones positioned underneath the
floor runners.
6. When in place, level floor completely
before proceeding.
7. Position Plywood Floor pieces (2) on top of
completed floor joists.
Flush with Floor Framing.
Front
4. Position and attach Floor Runners Short
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) on each side of the
completed floor frame with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws
per Runner. Make sure Runners are flush with
outside of floor framing but not overhanging.
Long Floor Runners overhanging Floor Frame on front
Floor Runners flush with Floor Frame on Back
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Page 8

8. Position Plywood so it sits almost flush with outside of floor joist framing (see Note). When correctly
positioned, attach to all floor joists with approximately 24 - 1 1/4” Screws. Use screws every 16”.
B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Angled Wall
Extenders (2)
Door Header - Long
Wall Extenders (2)
Wall Plate
9. Locate 5 Solid Wall Panels and 5 Wall Plates (1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”). Attach Plates to
bottom of studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with framing.
Note: Plywood is cut slightly smaller than
floor framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior to
screwing. This will make it much
easier to attached together.
Pilot Hole
first.
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Page 9
Door Header
- Short
Extender Top
Siding piece (2)
3/4” thick Filler Trim
Interior Door
Header
Wall Plate (5)
Door Jamb
7/8” thick Filler Trim
Solid Wall
Panel (4)
Horizontal
Wall Cleats
Solid Front Wall
Panel - 73” high

10. Starting on side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor.
The Wall Panel bottom framing will sit flush with floor framing. Wall siding will
overhang the floor. Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
11. Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should be flush with outside of floor framing when properly
aligned. Note: Do not align wall siding to floor. Align wall plate to outside of plywood floor. When
positioned correctly, locate 2nd Solid Wall Panel and place in corner.
Wall Plate Flush
with floor frame.
Do not align
wall siding to
floor. Align
wall plate to
outside of
floor frame.
12. Butt both vertical wall studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly. Have helper push wall framing
together while securing to ensure tight fit. Note: Drill pilot holes in studs to prevent splitting.
Rear Solid Wall
Side Solid Wall
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor until Step 30.
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking not
included in kit.
Pilot Hole
first.
Wall Plate
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13. With the corner wall attachment complete, position the second rear wall panel in place so
bottom 2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor framing. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both wall panel studs together as per
Step 12 with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
14. With Rear Wall Panel in place, position other side wall panel on floor as per Step 10 & 11.
Rear Wall Panel
15. Secure side wall panel to rear wall panel as per Step 12. Next, locate the Front Wall Panel
(73” high) and position in front right corner.
Pilot Hole
first.
Pilot Hole
first.
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Page 11

16. Once again position the 2x3 wall plate so it
sits flush on floor and siding overhangs.
Note: Front Wall Panel is only 73” high.
19. Locate both Door Headers - Long and Short (step facing up and out). Attach long header using
5 - 2 1/2” Screws. Pre-drill right side and angle screw down. Line up header/filler/wall stud as shown
above. Position and attach short header using 2 - 2 1/2” Screws as shown above.
18. Locate Front Left Corner Filler Trims (2 @ 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 36”) and Door Jamb
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73”). Attach both Fillers with 4 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails as shown above. Place
Door Jamb against inside wall stud and align with edge of filler. Attach Jamb with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
17. When correctly positioned, secure
Front Wall Stud to Side Wall Stud with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Pilot Hole
first.
3/4” thick
Filler.
Door
Jamb.
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Page 12

21. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall so they are flush at the front. The
siding for both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
22. With Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure together from the inside with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
20. Locate an Angled Wall Extender and Top Siding Piece for Angled Wall Extender (L/R).
Position top siding on wall extender and align as shown above. Attach with 3 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails
to top wall framing. There are left/right top siding pieces. Use rough surface side out.
Place finished wall extender on side wall panel frame. Complete both sides now.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extender will overhang and cover siding of side wall.
Wall framings
flush at rear.
5 1/2”
5 1/2”
Top Siding Pc.
Sidings will
overlap.
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall
can also be installed after Roof
is attached after Step 46.
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23. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extender positioning and attachment as per Steps 21 & 22.
24. Locate one Wall Extender and place on Rear Walls with extender framing flush with inside edge
of wall framing. Overhanging siding on front of extender will rest in notch of Header.
25. Attach Wall Extender to both the Angled Wall Extender framing and the Door Header with
5 - 2 1/2” Screws.
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Page 14
Siding overlaps
rear wall.
Pilot Hole
first.

26. Position and secure 2nd Wall Extender Panel as per Steps 24 & 25. Additionally, attach to first
Extender with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws.
28. Align Interior Door Header (1 @ 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 44”) flush with top of framing on front wall and
underneath door header. Attach with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
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27. Align Horizontal Wall Cleats (1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 70”, 1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 21”) flush with top of
Rear Wall framing. To help strengthen the Rear Walls, there is a short and a long wall cleat which meet
off-center from the seam between walls. Attach Cleats with 8 - 1 1/4” Screws.
Advice: Use Interior Door Header to confirm
door opening is 44” wide.

99 1/4”
Advice: Prior to fastening walls and
installing rafters, take time to confirm your
walls are level, square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom of
walls corner-to-corner. This should be
approximately 99 1/4”. More importantly,
if measurements are not within 1/4”, your
walls are not square. Adjusting now will
make it easier to install roof section.
99 1/4”
29. Position and attach Front Right Corner Filler Trims (2 @ 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 36”) with
4 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails per piece. Filler trims won’t be visible because they serve as nailing strips
for the Corner Trims which will be attached later.
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Page 16

C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
30. To complete Wall
Section, attach bottom 2x3
wall plates to plywood floor
with 20 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Confirm Doorway opening is
44” wide. Prior to securing,
make sure wall panels are
aligned correctly on the floor.
Refer to Step 11. Wall siding
should overhang floor while
2x3 wall plates should sit flush
with floor.
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Pilot
Hole first.
44” Wide Door
Opening (top/bot)
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Metal Roof
Panel (3)
Foam Enclosures
(Several)
Rear Soffits (2)
Rafters (6)
Front Soffits
1” thick (2)
Batten
Spacers (4)
Roof Batten 50”
(6)
Facia/Roof
Nailing Strips
(2)

31. Locate 6 Rafters, 2 Rear Soffits and 2 Front Soffits. Lay out on level ground and assemble as
shown in Illustrations A through C below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of
outside rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter end. Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to
prevent splitting. Measure and attach interior Rafters as illustrated above. Measure and attach
remaining Soffit/Rafter connections using 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter/soffit.
Front Soffit Boards (2)
A. B. C.
Rear Soffit
Screw center rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
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Page 18
96”
21 3/4”
Mid RafterMid Rafter
48”
21 3/4”
Rear
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each
screw, to avoid splitting wood. The hole depth should be
equal to 3/4 the length of screw.
Rear Soffit
Boards (2)
Confirm angles on rafter
ends are aligned.
Front Soffits

Rear Soffit.
Front Soffit.
Rear Walls
33. Position completed Rafter Section on top of walls. Outside Rafters will sit on Extension Wall
framing and be positioned equally from side to side.
34. When Rafter Section is positioned correctly, both Front and Rear Soffits will sit approximately 1/8”
away from wall siding. This can vary slightly.
32. Carefully flip completed Rafter Section over so Front Soffit is facing the front and place on
SpaceSaver walls. Note: Double check that your Rafter Section is positioned correctly by ensuring the
ends of the Rafters are sloped vertically as shown above.
Rafter ends vertical.
Side View
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Page 19
Rafter sits on framing

35. With Rafter Section correctly aligned, secure rafters to walls using 90° Metal Brackets. Start with
outside rafters and secure 2 Brackets with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws per bracket. Screw into Wall Extension
Framing at the front, and Wall Panel top framing at the rear. Complete both sides.
90° Metal Brackets
36. With outside rafters properly secured, completely secure remaining interior rafters using
8 - 2 1/2” Screws (1 per rafter). Screw into rafters from inside of Door Header at front of shed and
inside Extension Wall framing at rear of shed, behind Horizontal Wall Cleats.
Front
37. Position the first row of Battens (3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide” x 50”) on front of roof rafters.
Recess battens 1/8” from rafter end. Batten will sit evenly on center rafters overhanging 2” on the
outside rafters. Attach Batten with 1 - 1 1/4” screw per rafter. Pre-drill with 1/8” bit first to prevent
end from splitting. Fasten both 50” long roof battens.
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Recess Battens 1/8”
from end of rafter
Important: Pre-drill Battens
with 1/8” bit before fastening.