OLT 9x6 Cabana User manual

9x6 Cabana - Bevel
Assembly Manual
Version #11
Jan 15, 2021
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Page 1
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today Partnership and any Authorized Dealers free
of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line
@ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier
replacement parts, free of charge, within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be
provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation and normal residential
use, on level ground. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Note: The General Assembly Manual
illustrates a Door Configuration in
the front center location. The Door
can also be positioned in the front
corners. To correctly configure Door
in front corners, follow general
assembly steps and refer to Page 37
for required changes.
Thank you for purchasing
a 9x6 Cabana. Please take
the time to identify all the
parts prior to assembly.

What to do before my Shed arrives?
Become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can•
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor.
Clear the construcon area and ensure a clear pathway for delivery when•
the freight company arrives. Remove all debris: roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Excavate the site. Contact your local ulies company to ensure there•
are no gas or electric lines buried in the area before digging.
Decide on the type of foundaon you will be using:•
 Concrete slab, or
 46 inches of crushed gravel with paver stones or 4x4 stringers.
You can find the footprint for your shed on Page 3 of your Assembly Manual.
If doing the assembly yourself, have all the necessary tools ready to go and in•
working condion. A list of required tools can be found aer the parts list.
One helper is recommended to assist in construcng your shed.•
It generally takes two people over two days to assemble a shed. If you’re
hiring a contractor, their rate should be in line with that duraon of work.
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Page 2

Foundation Types for a 9x6 Garden Shed
Concrete Slab Foundation:
- Slab must be at least the same size as assembled floor frame (75” x 105”) or larger.
- 6” Deep foundation.
- 1.0 Cubic Yards of concrete required.
- A concrete slab will have the longest durability out of your foundation options.
Once level, a concrete slab is the easiest surface to build on.
Gravel with 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.4 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximatley 13 wheelbarrows.
- 5 - 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers 75” long required.
- Evenly spaced, with one at each end of floor frame.
Saves money on materials, easy to level and work with.
Gravel with Patio Paver Stones:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.4 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximatley 13 wheelbarrows.
- 15 patio pavers (8” x 8” or larger).
- Center patio paver stones underneath floor runners and underneath seams in floor joists.
Patio paver stones are widely available from most landscape stores.
75”
105”
6” Deep
15 Patio Stones
Floor FrameConcrete Foundation Completed Foundation
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with treated stringers Completed Foundation
Gravel Foundation Completed Foundation
87”
117”
Gravel Foundation with Patio Pavers
75”
105”
5 - 4”x4”x75”
21 7/8”
87”
117”
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Page 3

Parts List:
A. Floor Section
3 - 35” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames
2 - 48” x 74 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Large
1 - 8 7/8” x 74 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Small
4 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8” - Floor Joists
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 57” - Floor Runners - Long
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 48” - Floor Runners - Short
B. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
7 - 35”w x 75”h - Solid Wall Panels
(7 walls with Bottom Plates Unattached)
7 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2 x 35” - Bottom Wall Plates
2 - 35” x 75” - Window Wall Panels
Door Jambs & Header
2 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73” - Vertical Door Jambs
1 - 2” x 3 1/2” x 35” - Door Header (Notch on edge)
Top Wall Plates
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 50” - Front & Rear Top Wall Plate (Angle cut on edge)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Side Top Wall Plate (Angle cut on ends)
Gable Walls
2 - Side Gable Walls - Triangular shaped
C. Rafter and Roof Section
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45” - Rafters (angle cut)
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 44” - Ridge Boards
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 61” - Ridge Boards
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Soffits (Front and Rear)
3 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 48” - Roof Gussets (angle cut on ends)
Roof Panels
4 - Outside Roof Panels 41” wide
(Shingles overhanging roof plywood on 1 end)
2 - Middle Roof Panel 35” wide
(Shingles flush with roof plywood)
Filler Shingles
12 pcs - Long
4 pcs - Short
D. Trim and Miscellaneous Section
Bottom Skirting
10 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 34 3/4” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel)
Corner & Wall Trim
8 - 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 36” - Filler Trims
5 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 34 3/4” - Top Wall Trim (Bevel)
4 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 32 3/4” - Horizontal Gable Trims (Bevel)
4 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 79” - Corner Trims
4 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 82” - Wide Corner Trims
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 79” - Rear Wall Narrow Trims
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 77 1/4” - Side Wall Narrow Trims
Facia Trim
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Facia Nailing Strips
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45 7/8” - Side Facia (Angle cut both ends)
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 57 1/4” - Front & Rear Facia (square cut)
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 8” - Facia Detail Plate Pieces (front and rear)
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 8” - Horizontal Gable Trim Detail Plates
2 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 8” - Pentagon Facia Plates (sides)
Door
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 79” - Vertical Door Trims
1 - 1/2” x 1 1/4” x 32” - Horizontal Door Trim
1 - 31 1/2” x 42” - Bottom Dutch Door Section
1 - 31 1/2” x 30” - Top Dutch Door Section
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Interior Vertical Door Stops
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 36” - Interior Top Horizontal Door Stop
Ridge Caps
1 Bundle Cedar Shingle Roof Ridge Caps - 18 pcs
**Miscellaneous Pieces
1 pc - Spare Wall Siding
2 - Window Inserts
2 - Window Trim Pkg - (1-24 1/16” angle cut / 3-23” square cut)
2 pcs - Shim Shingles - use to shim door, etc
2 - Flower Box Kits
Thank you for purchasing our 9x6 Cabana.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
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Page 4

9X6 CABANA HARDWARE PACKAGE
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
S3 - 2” Screws
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
SS2 - 3/4” Screws
SB2 - 2” Screws
SB1 - 3/4” Screws
N2 - 1 1/2” Nails
Door Handle
Ridge Board
Connector x 2
Silver
Shingle
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
Silver Barrel Bolt
1/8” Drill Bit
N1 - 1 1/2” Nails
Finishing
Black Headed
Black Headed
x 255
x 152
x 32
x 185
x 25
x 6
x 51
x 355
x 2
Double Rafter
Bracket x 4
Tee Hinge x4
Barrel Bolt
Single Rafter
Bracket x 6
90° Metal
Bracket x 8
BR1 - Square Drive Bit
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Page 5

Regular Maintenance & Tips to prolong the life of your shed.
Before/During Assembly:
1.) Paint each face and edge of your plywood floor with a latex exterior paint.
2.) Caulk wall seams if gaps appear.
3.) Caulk around window framing.
4.) Caulk perimeter between floor plywood and bottom wall plate.
5.) Caulk channels in lap siding at the top of your door above the trim, just a drop in each channel.
6.) Caulk edge of door threshold.
7.) Optional: Install a Sill Gasket between floor runners and foundation.
8.) Optional: Install an 8” strip of roofing paper below Cedar Ridge Caps for Cedar Roof Sheds.
Routine Maintenance:
- Routinely check all fasteners are tight (ex. Door Hinges, Nails)
- Brush off dirt from walls.
- Brush off snow from roof regularly.
- Routinely remove needles and leaves from roof.
Painting/Staining
- Your cedar shed, if left untreated, will weather to a silvery grey colour.
- Painting or staining your structure is highly recommended and will prolong the life of your shed.
- You do not need to wait to paint or stain your shed, the wood in your kit has been dried and can be
—stained or painted immediately.
- Consult your local paint store for the best paint or stain for cedar.
- Optional: stain the inside of your shed. (Note: this will remove the fresh cedar smell.)
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7.
Sill Gasket
Floor Joists
Floor Runner
Foundation
8.
Floor Plywood
Wall Panel
Small gap between
bevel siding and
window trim
Dab of caulking
Strip of roofing paper over
apex of roof panels
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Page 6

A. Floor Section
Plywood Floor
Large (2)
Floor Joist
Frames (3)
Floor Runners
Short (3)
Floor Runners
Long (3)
Plywood Floor
Small
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Concrete Pad (optional
foundation method)
Floor
Joist (4)
Outside Frame
to outside Joist
Inside Frame
to Inside Joist
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with
the Hardware Kit Bag.
Middle of joist to
middle of joist
10 3/4”
13 3/4”
9”
1. Attach Interior Floor Joists to Floor Joist Frames. Only
the Center Floor Joist Frame requires 2 Joists to be attached.
Measure and attach both Joists with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per
Joist end as illustrated to the right.
Parts (Steps 1 - 3)
Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 4
Floor Joist Frames
(35” x 75”) x 3
Hardware (Steps 1 - 3)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 28 total
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Page 7

17 1/2”
105”
75”
Center Frame
Short Runner
Long Runner
Short Runner
Flush with Floor Framing
Centered
2. Both Outside Floor Joist Frames require 1 Floor Joist attachment. Center Joist 17 1/2” from
Outside of Floor Joist Frame and attach with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per end.
3. Position completed Floor Joist Frames with center
frame in the middle. Attach the Floor Joist Frames together
with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per section. When completed, your
floor joist section should be 105” wide x 75” deep.
4. Attach Long & Short Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
There are 2 floor runners per 105” side and 3 completed Runners in
total. Each completed Runner will have a long and short piece.
Use 10 - 2 1/2” Screws to secure long Runners and 8 - 2 1/2” Screws
to secure short Runners. Reverse long and short position of centre
Runner to provide more floor strength.
Parts
Floor Runners - Long
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 57”) x 3
Floor Runners - Short
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 48”) x 3
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 54 total
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Page 8

Concrete Slab
Foundation
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of floor
joists to determine
screw placement. Important - Make
sure floor is level
before moving on to
wall section. Use a
level to confirm, and
shim floor joists as
required.
push plywood
together at seams.
Front
5. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor over and place
on your foundation. Caution: you will need 2 people to assist you.
Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist floor. When in
place, level floor completely.
6. Position all Large & Small Plywood Floor
pieces on top of completed Floor Joists.
Plywood will sit slightly back from outside
edge of Floor Joist Framing. When in correct
position, attach with 1 1/4” Screws. Use
screws every 16”. The Plywood is cut slightly
smaller than floor framing. Keep plywood
seams tight.
Parts
Plywood Floor - Large
(48” x 74 7/8”) x 2
Plywood Floor - Small
(8 7/8” x 74 7/8”) x 1
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 40 total (approx)
7. When completed, make sure
the floor is still level and make
adjustments if required. When
completed, your floor should look
similar to this.
Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor
runners will sit on your foundation. It is
important to note that having a level foundation
is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary
between regions. Typical foundations can be
concrete pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
Foundations
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Page 9

B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Window Wall
Panel (2)
Solid Wall
Panel (7)
Vertical Door
Jamb (2)
Door Header
Side Gable
Wall Panel (2)
Front and Rear Top Wall Plate (4)
(Angle cut down length)
Side Top Wall
Plate (2)
(Angle cut on end)
Bottom Wall
Plates (7)
8. Lay out all the wall
panels and become famil-
iar with their location. On
Standard Kits, there are
2 Window Wall Panels
and 7 Solid Wall Panels.
Make sure panels are in
upright position so water
is directed away from and
not into shed. Compare
siding of solid panels with
window wall panels to
determine if in upright
position.
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Page 10

Important - Make sure all walls are aligned
in their upright position. If not, water may
leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Compare solid wall
siding to window wall siding and match
orientation.
1st Rear Wall Panel
1st Rear
Wall Panel
side of shed
Front
Side
2x3 wall frame
Wall Plate
Flush with
Floor Framing
1/2” overhang
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior
to screwing. This will make it
much easier to attach
together.
Pilot Hole
first.
9. Starting with Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel
face down. Position and attach a Bottom Wall Plate to
bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2”
Screws. Position so plates are flush with framing.
Parts
Solid Wall Panels
(35” x 75”) x 7
Bottom Wall Plates
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 35”) x 7
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 21 total
11. The Front and Rear Wall Panels will sandwich the
Side Panels. Note: 2x3 wall frame will sit flush with
floor frame, siding will overhang the floor horizontally
by approximately 1/2”.
10. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Solid
Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. Depending on
your preference, you may use a solid or window
wall panel in this position. If using a solid wall,
make sure panel is facing up.
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Page 11

rear wall
side wall
2 1/2” Screws
Pilot Hole
first.
Side Wall
Panel
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking not
included in kit.
Rear Wall
Side Wall
Pilot Hole
first.
Important - Do not fasten
walls to floor until Step 20.
Pilot Hole
first.
12. Position 1st side wall panel on plywood floor so
once again 2x3 bottom wall plate is sitting flush with
floor framing. Position panel so vertical 2x3 framing
sits flush with rear wall framing.When both wall panels
are positioned correctly, attach together at top, middle
and bottom of vertical studs with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
13. When correctly aligned, looking from
the top view, 2x3 wall framing of corner wall
panels will be positioned as illustrated above. 14. Position and attach 2nd rear wall panel
as shown above. Attach adjacent wall studs
together with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
15. Position and attach 3rd rear wall panel and attach as per Step 14. Note: wall framing of 3rd rear
wall should sit flush with floor framing.
Hardware (Steps 12 - 16)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 18 total
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Page 12

Pilot Hole
first.
Flush to tip
of Bevel.
16. Complete attachments of remaining
side walls as per Steps 11 - 15.
17. Position and attach both Window Walls as
per Steps 11 - 15.
18. Attach both Vertical Door Jambs to door opening
wall studs with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per Jamb. Position so
jamb is flush with tip of bevel siding on front window walls.
Parts
Vertical Door Jambs
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 8 total
Parts
Window Walls
(35” x 75”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 6 total
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Page 13

Notch to front
and on top.
122”
Advice: Prior to fastening walls and installing
rafters, take time to confirm your walls are level,
square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom of walls
corner-to-corner. This should be approximately
122”. More importantly, if measurements are not
within 1/4”, your walls are not square. Adjusting
now will make it easier to install roof section.
122”
19. Attach Door Header to vertical door jambs with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per
side. Header is 3” wide at bottom and has a 1/2” thick x 2 1/2” wide strip of
wood stapled to the top creating a notch or dado effect. This notch needs to
be positioned on the top facing the front. The notch is necessary as the roof
panel may hang up on the header and must sit flush on the rafter tops when
attached. Screw from door header into door jambs with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws
(2 per side). Pre-drill to prevent splitting!
Parts
Door Header
(2” x 3 1/2” x 35”) x 1
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 4 total
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Page 14

Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking
not included in kit.
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.
32”
Pilot Hole
first.
20. When all walls are attached together, check alignment with the floor. Bottom
of wall frames should sit flush with outside of floor framing, with siding overhanging
by approximately 1/2”. Confirm 32” wide door opening at bottom. When positioned
correctly, fasten bottom wall plates to floor using 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per wall panel.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 36 total
21. Position a Side Top Plate on top wall framing so they are flush. Attach by screwing down into
top of wall frame with 4 - 2” Screws.
Parts (Steps 21 - 22)
Side Wall Top Plates - Angle Cut Ends
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 75”) x 2
Front & Rear Wall Top Plates - Angle Cut Edge
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 50”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 21 - 22)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 24 total
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Page 15

Front Top Plate
Flashing overhangs
wall on outside.
Use a straight edge to check
that angle of Gable lines up
with Top Plate angle. Adjust
Gable for best fit.
24. Align and attach opposite Side Gable Wall
as per Step 23. Flashing will overhang Wall on
outside.
22. Next, attach the Front Top Plates. The Front and
Rear Top Plates are angle cut down the length. Once
again, position Top Plates on wall frame so they are flush.
Front and Rear Top Plates will fit between Side Top Plates.
Attach with 4 - 2” Screws per plate. Complete all other
Side &Rear Top Plate attachments.
23. Place Side Gable Wall so 1x3 framing sits flush with the inside
of the Top Plate. It should also be centered sideways on the Top Plate.
Adjust Gable accordingly. Temporarily attach to Walls and Top Plate
with 2 - 2” Screws. Gables may need slight adjustment in Step 34
when attachment will be completed with an additional 6 Screws.
Screw from the bottom of Gable framing down into Top Plate and
Wall. Hint: Use a straight edge to check the angle of the Gable fram-
ing and Top Plate. Both angles should line up (see diagram below).
Parts (Steps 23 - 24)
Side Gable Walls x 2
Hardware (Steps 23 - 24)
S3 - 2” Screws x 4 total
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Page 16

C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting.
Ridge Board
Ridge Board
Metal Ridge Board Connector
8 - 3/4” screws
Outside Roof
Panels (2)
Middle Roof
Panels (2)
Outside Roof
Panels (2)
Roof Rafters
(9 per side)
18 total
Ridge Boards (4)
44” and 61” long
Soffits (4)
Metal Ridge Board
Connectors (2)
Roof Gussets (3)
Rafter Brackets
Double (4)
Single (6)
Filler Shingles (16)
90° Metal Brackets (8)
25. Locate (1 each) Long &Short Ridge Boards
and attach together with a metal Ridge Board
Connector using 8 - 3/4” Screws. Total Length when
connected is 105”. Connect other set of Ridge Boards
the same. Position metal Ridge Board Connector
evenly on Ridge Boards.
Parts
Ridge Boards - Long
(3/4” x 4 1/2” x 61”) x 2
Ridge Boards - Short
(3/4” x 4 1/2” x 44”) x 2
Hardware
SS2 - 3/4” Screws
x 16 total
Y9 - Ridge Board
Connector
x 2 total
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Page 17

Ridge Board
Soffits
Doubled up Rafters
- screw together with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Rafter
Soffit
52 1/2”
35”
15 1/4”
15 1/4”
15 1/4”
35”
35”
105”
Connector
Plate to inside
Important: Pilot
Hole Ridge Board
to prevent splitting!
Important: Pilot
Hole Soffit to
prevent splitting!
Ridge Board
26. Locate 9 Rafters, 2 Soffits and a completed Ridge
Board. Lay out on level ground as shown to the right. Double
up Rafters as illustrated. Screw doubled up Rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per piece.
Parts (Steps 26 - 28)
Rafters
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45”) x 18
Soffits
(1/2” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 26 - 28)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 12 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws x 36 total
S3 - 2” Screws x 36 total
27. Attach completed Ridge Board to ends of both
outside Rafters with 2 - 2” Screws per end. Measure
and position interior Rafters as illustrated below. When
positioned correctly, attach Ridge Board to remaining
Rafters with 2 - 2” Screws / Rafter end.
28. Attach end of a Soffit flush to ends of outside rafters with
2 - 1 1/4” Screws per Rafter end. Drill pilot holes in Soffit to pre-
vent splitting. Complete both outside Rafter / Soffit connections
first. Measure and position interior Rafters as illustrated above.
When positioned correctly, attach Soffit to remaining Rafters
with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws / Rafter.
Flip completed rafter section over. Complete 2nd Rafter section
now as per Steps 26 - 27 with the following exception - When
attaching Ridge Board to Rafter ends, make sure Metal
Ridge Board Connector is positioned so offset to first
Rafter Section. See Step 33 for illustration.
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Page 18

Gable Notch
Ridge Board
Rafter
Soffit
Ridge Board
Soffit should sit approx. 1/8”
away from wall panel.
29. Flip Rafter Section over so Soffit
is facing down. Starting with the rear
Section, lift completed rafters up and
place on gable framing.
30. Slide Rafter Section up on gable framing until bottom of Ridge Board slips into gable notch.
31. When Rafter Section is correctly positioned, outside rafters will sit equally on gable framing and
Soffit will sit approximately 1/8” away from wall panels.
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Page 19

Gable Notch
Ridge Board
Offsetting Metal
Ridge Board
Connectors.
32. Place front completed Rafter Section
on gable walls as per Steps 30 & 31.
33. At the peak, align Ridge Boards so they
are flush together and secure them with
12 - 1 1/4” Screws.
Important: if there is a gap between Ridge
Boards, have a helper push the front and rear
walls closer together from outside. Walls
should be 70” apart at top from inside of wall
plate to opposite wall plate. To completely
secure Ridge Boards, place 1 1/4” Screws into
any of the remaining metal Ridge Board
Connector holes. Complete both sides.
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws x 20 total (approx.)
34. With both Ridge Boards connected,
completely secure Gable framing to
walls and rafters. Use 4 - 2” Screws per
Rafter. Use an additional 6 - 2” Screws
to secure Gable to wall.
Note: you may have to remove the
2 temporary screws in Gable from
Step 23 and reposition Gable for best
fit prior to completing gable
attachment.
Hardware
S3 - 2” Screws x 28 total
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