Olymberyl HF-706 User manual
~1~
Olymberyl
Olymberyl®
®
Wood
Wood &
&Multi-Fuel
Multi-Fuel Stoves
Stoves
Introduction
Congratulations on purchasing a genuine Olymberyl® Stove. When cared for properly, these high
quality, finely crafted cast iron stoves and fireplaces will offer many years of reliable performance.
This instruction manual has been developed to ensure optimum performance from the Olymberyl®
stove and fireplace range. It's very important that you thoroughly read and understand all instructions
before using your new stove or fireplace.
Check Building Codes
When installing, operating and maintaining your stove, follow the guidelines presented in these
instructions, and make them available to anyone using or servicing the stove.
Your city, town, county or province may require a building permit to install a solid fuel burning
appliance.
Always consult your local building inspector or authority having jurisdiction to determine what
regulations apply in your area.
Kindly save these instructions for future references
~2~
Stove Safety
When properly maintained and operated your stove should give you many years of service, however
there are important safety aspects of these products that you need to be aware of when operating a
stove.
1.
The term Multi-fuel refers to any of the main commercially available solid fuels such as coal,
wood, turf, anthracite, briquettes. Never use liquid fuels such as oil or kerosene when lighting
or refreshing the fire or at any other time. Do not store liquid fuels near stove.
2. The burning of wood gives off gases which can be extremely dangerous. The stove is designed
that under normal operating circumstances these gases pass up the flue chimney system and
cannot escape into your home, however it is important that your flue system is properly
installed and that you check all joints regularly to ensure that there are no cracks or gaps,
check the door sealing rope and replace when damaged. We recommend a smoke alarm be
fitted in rooms where stoves are installed. Do not use stove in a room where negative pressure
conditions may occur, such as through the use of extraction fans unless an adequate air supply
into the room is ensured, as this may draw air through the stove and cause products of
combustion to escape into the room.
3. Creosote and soot may accumulate in your flue pipe and chimney. This may ignite, causing a
chimney fire. If you suspect a chimney fire evacuate people from the building, close down the
air controls on the stove and call the Fire Department. To prevent the accumulation of soot or
creosote, check flue and chimney regularly and clean as necessary. Good burning, hot stoves
will generally cause a lot less build-up than slow burning stoves, likewise dry wood will cause
less build-up than wet wood. We recommend a fire extinguisher be available where stoves are
in operation. In the event of a chimney fire do not re-light the stove until it and the flue
chimney system have been thoroughly checked and repaired as necessary.
4. Stoves get extremely hot and should not be touched when lit. When young children are in the
area, we recommend the use of a suitable fire guard around the stove. Always wear protective
gloves when reloading stove.
5. Never over-fire your stove. If external parts of your stove are glowing red then the stove is
over-firing and your draught settings should be reduced. Never interfere with the draught
mechanisms or adjust your air settings outside those limits set when the stove is manufactured.
Never use a fan to supply air to the stove or to extract air from it.
6. All users of the stove should be aware of the contents of this manual. Please leave this manual
where it is accessible to stove users and do not allow anyone to use the stove that is unfamiliar
with its correct operation.
7. Never use the stove if any parts are missing or damaged, only use genuine parts as
replacements. Never modify your stove.
8. Never use a fan to supply air to the stove or to extract from it.
~3~
Before installing your stove
You need to consider the following to ensure the safe operation of your stove.
• Provision of adequate air to support efficient combustion of the fuel.
• A well sealed flue/chimney system, hereinafter referred to as the “flue system”.
• The protection of combustible materials in proximity of the stove.
Adequate provision air
It is essential for the safe and efficient use of your stove that you provide an adequate air supply to
your stove. This may mean the provision of an outside air supply to the room, especially if there
are extraction units such as cooker hoods or clothes dryers in the vicinity. Failure to do so will
mean that fuel is burned inefficiently causing smoke and blackening the glass and may also cause
smoke to come back into the room. As a simple check for this open a door or window in the room
and check if the stove burns more efficiently.
Well sealed flue system
Only materials and items approved for solid fuel stoves should be used for your stove as fuel.
Under no circumstances should you use aluminum or galvanized steel pipes for your stove flue.
Always fit pipes with the narrow side down, this allow any creosote to run down the inside of the
pipe and not to come out and cause an unsightly mess and possible fire hazard. All joints in the flue
system should be sealed with fire cement and/or an appropriate fire resistant rope or gasket.
Pipe bends should be kept to a minimum and we do not recommend using more than 2 bends on
any installation. Flues must not pass through ceilings, floors, attics, roofs, or combustible walls
without adequate and approved insulation being provided to protect combustible materials.
The chimney and flue provide a means of taking combusted fuel from the stove, as well as a
draught to enable the stove to work. It is essential that the flue system is kept in good condition and
there are no breaks or cracks allowing contact with any other combustible materials of the house. It
is also essential that the flue system is kept clean and seals are maintained to ensure the draught is
not lost.
The open end of the flue system must be above the height of the apex of the building and any other
obstructions, such as trees, which are within 3 meters (10ft) of the flue system. Failure to do this
will affect the efficiency of the stove and may cause down draughts which will mean dangerous
products of combustion are emitted into room.
Under no circumstances should the flue pipe be less than 5” (125mm) internal diameter.
~4~
Installation
Unpacking and preparing your stove for installation.
1.
Remove your stove from the outer packaging and place on floor. Please inspect stove and
check that it is not damaged in any way. Never attempt to use a stove that has been damaged.
2. If you are installing the stove yourself, proceed as follows. However, if you are unsure about
any aspect of stove installation, please contact your dealer and he will discuss installation with
you or put you in touch with an experienced stove installer.
3.
Open the fire door using the handle and remove the contents from the firebox.
4.
Gently lay the stove on its back. Remove screws from 4 corners of base and fit one of the
legs to each corner of the stove. Tighten bolt to ensure leg is secure to base of stove. Fully
stand the stove upright.
5. If using back flue outlet go to 6, if using top flue outlet, remove hob and lay it upside down on
soft surface, remove hob blanking plate from underside of hob by taking out 2 screws, remove
flue blanking plate from top outlet and fit to back outlet making sure it is properly sealed with
ceramic rope or approved fire cement.
6.
Move the stove into position. Do not drag the stove as this may damage the legs, screws or
base.
7. Connect flue pipe to stove, seal all joints with ceramic rope and/or approved fire cement.
Stove Clearance
It is extremely important that you respect required installation distances and that you respect local
installation regulations. This is for your safety! The manufacturer is not responsible for the
product, if it is not installed following these recommendations. These clearances may only be
reduced by means approved by the regulatory authority.
A combustible surface is anything that can burn (i.e. sheet rock, wall paper, wood, fabrics etc.)
These surfaces are not limited to those that are visible and also include materials that are behind
non-combustible materials. If you are not sure of the combustible nature of a material, consult
your local fire officials.
~5~
Single wall
connector pipe
Double wall
connector pipe
Safety Distances(mm)
Model Side Back Front
A–Chimney Connector to backwall 16.5” (419 mm) 10.5” (267 mm) Elena 500 500 800
B–Chimney Connector to sidewall 22” (559 mm) 18” (457 mm) Gabriel 510 760 800
C–Chimney Connector to cornerwall 20” (508 mm) 15” (381 mm) Victoria 500 800 800
D–Unit to backwall *14” (356 mm) *8” (203 mm) Maximus 600 800 1200
E–Unit to sidewall *14” (356 mm) *10” (254 mm) Olive 500 800 800
F–Unit to cornerwall *11.5” (292 mm) *6.5” (165 mm) Aidan 600 800 1200
For connecting into existing Cshimney:
The Chimney should be swept prior to installation and smoke tested to ensure it is sound.
The Chimney must not have any hollow sections present, these should be filled to ensure that any
soot or tar, etc. does not build up which may present problems when sweeping the chimney.
Hollow sections within the chimney may also present problems with the chimney draw. The
connecting flue pipe must be sealed to the chimney with fire cement and high temperature resistant
rope as required. This is usually done into a register (Blanking) plate with an access door/hatch to
enable chimney sweeping. Particularly large chimneys may require lining as the flue temperature
may not get warm enough to provide a suitable up-draught.
Minimum diameter should be no less than the outlet size of the stove, 25to 50mm larger is ideal.
Where the stove outlet is less than 150mm this diameter should be no less than 125mm when only
burning smokeless fuels or a minimum of 150mm for any fuel types.
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~6~
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~7 ~
For Installations where no Chimney exists
The Connecting flue pipe from the Stove should connect to the Twin Wall Insulated flue pipe,
ensure this flue pipe is the correct type for Multi-Fuel applications.
Some typical installations are shown as following:
Support Collar
Fire Stop Spacer
Radiation Shield
Fire Stop Spacer
Twin Wall Flue Pipe must
start at least 150mm below
combustible surface.
45°
600mm
minimum
Rain cap/Cowl
Access for soot
removal
600mm minimum
Access for soot removal
45°degree elbow
Maximum horizontal
150mm
~8 ~
The Chimney/Terminal Outlet must be no lower than the minimum positions shown in the diagram
below:
A
D
B
C
Point where flue passes through weather
surface (Notes 1,2) Clearance to flue outlet
A At or within 500mm of the ridge. At least 600mm above the ridge.
B Elsewhere on a roof
(Whether pitched or flat)
At least 2300mm horizontally from the nearest point on
the weather surface and:
A) at least 1000mm above the highest point of
intersection of the chimney and the weather surface; or
B) at least as high as the ridge
C Below (on a pitched roof) or within 2300mm
hori- zontally to an open able roof light, dormer
window or other opening . (Note 3)
At least 1000mm above the top of the opening.
DWithin 2300mm of an adjoining or adjacent
building,
whether or not beyond the boundary. (Note 3) At least 600mm above the adjacent building.
Notes
1) The weather surface is the building external surface, such as its roof, tiles or external walls.
2) A flat roof has a pitch less than 10 degrees
3) The clearance given for A or B, as appropriate, will also apply
For terminations above easily ignited surfaces i.e. thatched roofs then minimum outlet positions are
shown below, this diagram needs observing in conjunction with the above diagram:
1800mm
600mm
Outlets should be above the shaded
areas.
B B
At least
2300mm
1800mm
Area Location of flue outlet
At least 1800mm vertically above the weather surface and at least 600mm above the ridge
B At least 1800mm vertically above the weather surface and at least 2300mm horizontally from the
weather surface.
Upon completion of the installation the Chimney/Flue must be smoke tested prior to the stove
being lit.
~9 ~
Operating Your Stove
Fuel
Your stove is designed to burn a range of solid fuels such as coal, wood, turf (peat) and etc.; it is
not designed to burn,
• Paper or cardboard, other than small amounts used to light stove.
• Treated or painted wood
• Synthetic fuel or logs that are not approved for solid fuel stoves
• Household rubbish
• Liquid fuels
• Plastics
Burning these or other products for which the stove was not designed may damage the stove and
cause a fire hazard or release toxic fumes
Fuel should be stored in a dry place; wood should be dried for at least 1 year. Wet wood may cause
serious creosote, which may damage your flue system and even your stove. Therefore the use of
wet wood is strongly discouraged.
The approximate calorific (Heat) Value of the most common fuels is:
Turf or Peat 4.0 kWh/kg
Briquettes 5.3 kWh/kg
Wood 5.5 kWh/kg
Brown coal nuggets 5.8 kWh/kg
Standard coal 7.9 kWh/kg
The figure shown for wood is based on dry hardwood.
First operation of stove
You should begin using your stove by lighting small fires which get progressively bigger. We
recommend a series of about 5 small fires before you put the stove into full service. Allow the
stove to fully cool between each of these fires. There may be some smell and a small amount of
smoke from the stove during the initial operations. This is perfectly normal and is merely the
curing of the stove paint. Opening a window or door to provide additional ventilation will help
alleviate this.
Air controls
Your stove needs air to burn the fuel. This air is supplied through the spin valve at the base of the
door and through the slots over the glass. Primary air, as the name suggests, is used for the initial
burning of the fuel. Secondary air is used for secondary combustion, which makes the stove more
efficient, reduces the emissions and is also used to keep the stove glass clean. Wood burns better
with the air over the fire bed and when burning a lot of wood, you should use the secondary air
supply more.
~10 ~
The settings of both of these air controls very much depends on draught and local conditions and
after a few fires, you should have a good idea of the best settings for your stove. The air controls
should be fully opened when lighting the fire. Once the fire is established, the controls may be
adjusted as required. Reducing the air intake will cause the stove to burn slower. This may cause
some blackening of the stove glass, but this should burn off once the stove is burning brightly again.
Refueling
Before refueling your stove, turn the air supply to high for a few moments until there is a good fire
in the stove. This will ensure there is no build-up of harmful gases in the stove when the door is
opened and will also get the new fuel burning quickly and not allow it to kill the fire.
To reload the stove, open the door and feed the fuel in slowly using tongs or a small shovel. Do not
overfill the stove. It is always better to put in small loads often rather than big fills less frequently.
Close the door gently after stove is reloaded.
You should always wear protective gloves and use tongs when tending a hot stove.
Ash removal
Your stove is fitted with a shaker grate to remove the ash from the firebox. Use the operating tool
to move the shaker knob forward and back. This will allow the ash to fall into the ash pan under the
fire bed. This can also be achieved by using a poker.
When ash has built up in the ash pan, it should be emptied. Failure to do this will cause ash to build
up around the grate and may cause your grate to warp or burn out. It is especially important when
burning fuel with high ash content that you keep your grate clear and your ash pan emptied
regularly, so as not to damage your grate. Clear the grate with the shaker bar or a poker regularly.
To remove the ash, open the stove door and use the operating tool provided to lift the ash pan out
of the stove. If possible, this should be done before lighting the stove when the ash is cold. Even if
the ash appears to be cold, it should be placed in a non-combustible container as there may be hot
ash in the center of the pile. You should always wear protective gloves when removing ash from
the stove.
~11 ~
This stove is not designed to operate with the door open. Always close the stove door when you
have taken out the ash tray and leave closed while disposing of the ash. Only reopen to put ash pan
back into the stove and close immediately afterwards.
Care of glass
At times, especially when the air controls are turned to low settings or when damp wood is used,
the stove glass will blacken. This is caused by fuel that is not completely burnt, but the build-up on
the inside of the glass will normally burn off when a good hot fire is established in the stove.
There may be times however when you need to clean the glass. To do this, use a soft cloth and a
non-abrasive glass cleaner. Only ever clean the glass when the stove is cold. When loading fuel
into the stove, always make sure it is not protruding out through the door opening, as this may
break the glass when you close the door. This is especially relevant when loading logs. Always
close the door gently.
If the glass does crack when the stove is lit, let the fire die out. Do not open the door until the stove
has fully cooled. Replace the glass with the specified replacement part before re-using the stove.
Overnight burning
Your stove is designed to allow overnight burning. To do this, put a good fuel bed into the stove
and allow it to burn for about 15 minutes so as not to kill the fire. Then close the secondary air
supply at the top of the door and turn the primary air inlet to almost closed. The exact setting of
this depends on local conditions, but we suggest you begin with about a ½ turn open. If the fire
burns away, then next time close it a little more. If the fire goes out, you need to try with it a little
more open. After a couple of nights, you will find the setting that best suits the local conditions of
your stove.
When you return to your stove, fully open both air controls until you have a good fire and then set
to normal operating levels. Do not add fuel until the fire bed is hot and red. Then add a little for the
first time and allow that to ignite before adding more. During overnight burning, the stove glass
will blacken, but when a hot fire is established again this should burn off.
Stove Maintenance
Check stove regularly
Initially, we recommend you check your flue system at least once per month. After the first few
months you will notice a pattern of soot and creosote build up and you can then determine an
inspection interval for checking soot and creosote build up that is suitable for your stove
installation.
Other checks, as listed below, should be carried out at least twice per year. If you notice anything
wrong at any time it should be repaired immediately. Never use a stove that is in any way damaged
or has a damaged flue.
~12 ~
1. Check your flue system for build up of soot or creosote and for signs of damage to joints. To
check flue outlet remove top of baffle by lifting and pulling out at end. Use a flashlight to
check flue outlet. Clean and repair as necessary. Always replace top baffle before relighting
stove.
2. Check that glass is not cracked or chipped and that sealing rope is in good condition.
Replace as necessary.
3. When the room is dark, use a strong flashlight to check the sealing of the stove at the edge and
corners for leaks. Any leaks or cracks found should be repaired with fire cement or damaged
parts should be replaced with genuine spare parts.
4. Check that stove door is tight and well sealed when closed. Place a strip of paper into the stove
and close the door, try to pull out paper. You should feel some resistance to your pull, check
several points around the door. If it pulls out too easily, replace the rope and seal in place with
a suitable high temperature sealant.
Replacing parts
Always use genuine replacement parts. Only ever make replacements when the stove is cold.
Surface finish
The stove should only be cleaned using a damp cloth. Some cleaning products may leave stains on
the stove surface. Never use abrasive cloths as these may scratch the surface. Painted stoves can be
re-painted by using a good quality, high temperature stove paint. When re-painting, make sure
there is plenty of ventilation and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow the paint to fully
dry before lighting the stove and allow extra ventilation for the first couple of fires as some fumes
may emit from the stove as the paint cures.
Wetback (Boiler)
Check the surface of your boiler regularly, if you find a build-up of creosote scrap away
with a flat steel scraper. This build-up of creosote will insulate the boiler and reduce the
heat absorbed by the water.
Trouble Shooting
Fire not burning
A stove not burning is generally caused by either a shortage of air and/or incorrect or damp fuel. If
fuel is not the problem check:
That the air controls are opened.
There is no blockage in the flue system.
That the open end of the flue is above the height of any nearby obstructions.
That there is a sufficient air supply into the room and that this supply is not being taken by
an extractor fan.
~13 ~
Glass blackens
Glass usually blackens when:
The fuel is not being burned efficiently because of starvation of air.
Bad quality or damp fuel is being used.
Balance between primary and secondary air is incorrect.
Try to introduce more air into the stove, especially through the secondary air control on the top of
the stove door as this air flows down over the glass to help burn off the creosote. For optimum
efficiency always use a good quality wood.
Smoke in room
If the stove is properly installed it should not emit any smoke into your room. Should this happen,
check that your room is not air tight. This can easily be checked by opening a door or window. If
the smoking stops you need to provide an additional air supply into the room. If this is not the
problem, check if your chimney is blocked or obstructed and that you are not getting a down
draught caused by the location of the open end of the flue pipe or chimney.
If the problem persists contact your dealer and ask him to get your chimney and stove installation
checked.
Fire burning too quickly
This is usually caused by too much draught or air.
Firstly try reducing the air supply to the stove by closing down your air controls, if this fails
then you may have damage to the sealing.
Check the condition of the door sealing rope and the joints within the stove.
If neither of these solve the problem you may have too much draught on your chimney and you
may need to fit a damper valve into your flue system. You should not install a flue damper without
consulting a specialist. Never install a damper that can completely block your flue or chimney.
Contact your dealer to discuss this.
Chimney fire
Chimney fires occur when soot and creosote that have built up in the flue system ignite. If the stove
is operated properly and the flue checked and cleaned regularly then chimney fires should not
occur. These fires can be very dangerous and must be avoided. Try to maintain good, hot fires in
the stove whenever possible and at least once in every firing open the air controls and allow the
stove to burn on full for a short while until the entire fire bed is glowing red. Check your flue
system regularly for build-up of soot and creosote and clean as necessary.
Chimney fires can be detected by sparks coming from the top of the chimney, a roaring sound
coming from the area of the stove or chimney or vibration in the stove or chimney.
In the event of a chimney fire, close the air controls, evacuate the building and call the fire
department. Do not relight the stove after a chimney fire until the stove and flue have been checked
and any necessary repairs have been carried out.
~14 ~
ADDITIONAL INFO (FOR BOILER MODEL ONLY)
Boiler Connection
The advanced Back-Boiler fitted in your Stove must be installed in Compliance with all relevant
Building Regulations and in accordance with Central Heating Standard EN 12828 whilst
complying with local Water Supply Regulations. Guidance and further information is available
from your Local Water Supplier. The Stove must NOT be operated until the back-boiler is
connected and has water connected to it, operating the stove before the Back-Boiler is connected
may cause damage to the boiler and stove alike, this will also terminate the guarantee. A suitably
qualified water heating engineer is recommended for connecting the Boiler of the Stove, this may
be a separate installer to that of the Chimney/Flueway. This Back-Boiler may be effectively
installed or linked in with an existing gas or oil circuit if a neutralising vessel is installed.
The ready fitted boiler connections have 1“BSP threads. The Back-Boiler in your Stove is only
suitable for Indirect Closed Circuit Systems for heating Domestic Hot Water and Radiators, the
quantity of which will require calculating by your installer and is largely dependant upon the size
of radiators, pipe work length and pipe work diameter.
When the Back-Boiler is heating domestic hot water an Indirect Domestic Hot Water
Cylinder with an integral heat exchanger is required, this is readily identified on the Cylinder as the
protruding threads are male fitting, do NOT confuse this with an unsuitable Direct Cylinder which
has female threads. Pipe work where applicable from the Back-Boiler to the open vented gravity
Feed & Expansion Tank must rise continuously and will require a 25mm water clearance from
below the warning pipe. All pipe work and fittings must comply with all relevant fitting and
European standards.
A Drain Off Cock must be fitted to all low points of the system. A method of allowing complete
drainage of water from the system must be incorporated. An adequate means for preventing
backflow of water into other parts of the system must be provided.
The Indirect Closed Circuit System may also require, (dependant upon type of installation):
A thermostatic valve to be fitted to all radiators (unless heat leak).
A Heat Leak radiator , towel rail or similar appliance fitted into the primary flowing circuit
to dissipate excess heat from the Back-Boiler. This appliance must be at least 10% of the
Back-Boiler output and must NOT be fitted with a control valve.
A pump in the primary system to assist the flow.
Pipe thermostats to prevent over heating or cold water flowing through the circuit.
Injector Tees to assist the circulation.
The Back-Boiler must be tested upon completion of installation.
Usage of thermostat
As for the large boiler type stove HFB-443, there is one more primary air inlet at the back of the
stove. It can be controlled either by hand or by a thermostat. If your option is a stove with a
thermostat, the thermostat is set at close or “0” position by the manufacturer and you may reset it at
an open position according to your own needs. Our suggestion for re-setting the thermostat is as
under:
Set it to 0 ~ 3 position when you connect your stove to 5 ~ 10 radiators to heat an area of 70 ~ 110 ㎡
Set it to 3 ~ 6 position when you connect your stove to 10 ~ 15 radiators to heat an area of 110 ~ 150 ㎡
Set it to 6 ~ 8 position when you connect your stove to 15 ~ 18 radiators to heat an area of 150 ~ 180 ㎡
~15 ~
The thermostat is a safety device. It automatically closes the air inlet when the water temperature is
more than 85±3℃, so that the water doesn’t get too hot. And it automatically opens the air inlet to
the set open position when the water temperature is lower than 80±3℃. This way the thermostat
makes the water temperature not change too much.
WATER HEATING SYSTEMS DIAGRAM
For HFB-332/HFB-243
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
For HFB-443
Note: This diagram illustrates the basic principal of water heating systems and must not be
regarded as a working drawing.
~16 ~
Condensation
CAUTION WHEN FILLING
When filling the boiler with water for the first time, the cold water entering the water jacket can
cause condensation to form on the surfaces of the appliance (inside and out)
In certain conditions this condensation could result in a considerable amount of water, in some
cases enough to fill the bottom of the appliance. This could be even worse if the house has recently
been re-decorated, wet plastering or any other work undertaken which could result in high
humidity.
Precautions must be taken to ensure that this build up of condensate does not overflow from the
appliance onto surrounding fabric of the room e.g. carpets.
NOTE – THIS CONDENSATION IS NORMAL DURING FILLING AND DOES NOT
INDICATE A FAULTY OR LEAKING STOVE
SEASONAL USE
If this appliance is unused for lengthy periods of time it should be periodically checked to ensure
that condensate is not building up within the stove.
NOTE – THIS CONDENSATION IS NORMAL DURING FILLING AND DOES NOT
INDICATE A FAULTY OR LEAKING STOVE
If the stove is going to be not used for a very long period of time it is recommended to drain the
system.
NORMAL RUNNING
During normal running this condensation should be minimal if the system is fitted with a low limit
thermostat. This low level thermostat prevents the system pump for running until the stove has
reached temperature.
TECHNICAL DATA
Model Output
Overall
Efficiency
(%)
Size (mm)
H x W x D
Flue Size
(mm)
Net
Weight
(Kg)
HF-706 Elena 5kw 71 665mmX500mmX320mm 125mm (5”) 64kg
HF-217 BabyGabriel 4.5kw 75 565mmX375mmX414mm 125mm (5”) 83kg
HF-332 Gabriel 5kw 70 670mmX450mmX390mm 125mm (5”) 89kg
HFB-332 Paladin 7kw 75 670mmX450mmX390mm 125mm (5”) 98kg
HF-233 Victoria 8kw 70 680mmX535mmX510mm 150mm (6”) 116kg
HF-233i Victoria Ⅱ9.5kw 76 680mmX535mmX510mm 150mm (6”) 123kg
HFB-243 Olive 11.5kw 78 680mmX535mmX510mm 150mm (6”) 124kg
HFB-243i Olive Ⅱ12kw 78 680mmX535mmX510mm 150mm (6”) 135kg
HF-556M Septima 10.2kw 70 650mmX590mmX510mm 150mm (6”) 124kg
HF-556W Vitus 10.2kw 70 650mmX590mmX510mm 150mm (6”) 124kg
HF-557M Pony 12kw 75 670mmX530mmX420mm 150mm (6”) 139kg
HF-446 Maximus 18.5kw 70 827mmX610mmX580mm 150mm (6”) 206kg
HFB-443 Aidan 21kw 78 827mmX610mmX610mm 150mm (6”) 223kg
HF-464A Athos 14kw 70 830mmX970mmX590mm 150mm (6”) 198kg
HF-464B Portos 14kw 70 830mmX1110mmX590mm 150mm (6”) 223kg
HF-464C Aramis 14kw 70 1040mmX1410mmX630mm 150mm (6”) 279kg
~17 ~
Olymberyl Warranty
Warranty Policy & Procedures
Olymberyl guarantee that your product will be free from defective parts, materials and
workmanship at the time of purchase by the original consumer for a period of 1 year for
components (parts and labour), excluding consumable parts and 5 years for the bodywork casing
and door (parts and 1 year labour)
The warranty does not cover parts deemed to be consumables. These include paint, firebricks,
vermiculite panels, smoke deflection plates(baffle plates), gaskets, rope seals and glass.
Olymberyl will repair or replace at its option any stove or stove part thereof found to be defective
under these terms.
Your stove is guaranteed against defects subject to the following conditions.
1. The stove must have been installed by an appropriately qualified installer and upon completion
of the installation a certificate of compliance to local building regulations issued.
2. The sales receipt or invoice must be kept as proof of purchase.
3. The serial number of the stove must not be damaged or missing.
4. You must not have used the stove to burn any of the prohibited fuels listed.
5. The stove must have been continuously kept in a serviceable condition and you must not have
allowed the stove to corrode.
6. You must not have modified the construction of the stove in any way
7. The stove must not have been used for commercial purposes (e.g. rented or holiday
accommodation, public bar, where the stove’s operation could be subject to abuse).
Limits of warranty
This warranty is not transferable and applies to the original retail purchaser only. It does not cover
the failure of the appliance due to accidental damage, misuse or abuse, modification, illegal
installation, repairs (other than those by the authorised dealer) or failure to maintain the stove in a
serviceable condition.
Under no circumstances shall Olymberyl be liable for any incidental or consequential damage
claims of any nature whatsoever arising from the non-conformance of the stove under the terms of
the manufacturer’s warranty. These include loss of profit, commercial losses, transport costs and
damage during transport, costs in connection with any dismantling and reassembling of the stove
and its installation components.
This manual suits for next models
16
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