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1. The most common cause of the unit shutting itself off is stopping large
pieces too quickly which causes excess voltage and the drive tripping out
(self-protection). If you press the STOP button and the lathe does not
brake, but coasts to a stop, this is what has happened. Refer to the section
“If Your Drive Does Trip Out” below, to reset your drive. The drive can
also trip itself out if the speed is changed while turning a piece. Keep in
mind that as a piece gets more in balance and you increase the speed, even
though you have reduced the weight, the increased speed makes stopping
more difficult. This is why the lathe might stop normally when you first
start a piece but might trip out later when you increase the speed. You can
also reduce braking problems by selecting the proper pulley. It is much eas-
ier for the drive to stop the lathe if the lathe is on the largest headstock
pulley (slowest speed) than if the lathe is on the smallest (fastest speed)
headstock pulley. Long acceleration is selected by putting the toggle switch
on top of the pendant control box into the forward position.
2. The drive unit also monitors the amount of current and the length of time
that current has been flowing. If the motor has been drawing excess cur-
rent for too long, the drive will shut down to protect the motor. This can
happen if the lathe has been running slowly for a long time. To prevent
this problem, use the largest headstock pulley (slowest speed) suitable for
the job to keep the motor speed high.
3. Sudden high power demands can cause the drive to shut down also. For
example, if you have a very large catch, the drive may shut down.
If Your Drive Does Trip Out
The Drive unit that controls the motor is a very sophisticated drive
that constantly monitors the motor, incoming power, and itself. If
the unit detects a condition that will cause damage to any part of
the drive system, it will shut itself down and the motor will coast
to a stop. If this happens, the lathe will not respond to any input
from the pendant control. To reset the Drive, turn the power off,
LET THE LATHE SIT FOR 30 SECONDS, and then turn the
power back on.
Common Problems & How to Avoid Them
ONEWAY Lathes, like any mechanical device, needs lubrication to function at
its optimum. Woodturning creates dust and turning wet wood sprays water
and chemicals onto the lathe. Some of these chemicals are acidic and can
quickly rust the bed. To minimize bed and tailstock quill rust, apply a heavy
duty paste wax. Doing this will not noticeably affect clamping. After turning,
the lathe should be wiped down - particularly the bed. Wiping an oily rag over
exposed metal will help keep your lathe functioning better and last longer. Oil
on the bed should be wiped off before using the lathe so the tailstock and banjo
clamp tightly.
There are two areas on the lathe that require lubrication: the tailstock and the
banjo clamping. The tailstock quill is a precision fit and to maintain factory
performance it should be kept lightly oiled at all times.
Wind the quill all the way out, put a few drops of
oil on the barrel and wind it in. Putting oil on the
clamping mechanism will help ensure long life and
good clamping force. To oil the clamp mechanism put
a few drops on the shaft through the hole in the
back of the tailstock.
The banjo uses a patent pend- i n g mechanism that
eliminates flex in the s h a f t a n d ensures tight
clamping over the entire range of the
banjo. Lubricating the mechanism will
ensure that the clamp- ing force is used
to clamp the banjo not to overcome fric-
tion in the mecha- nism. Any anti-
seize lubricant will work but we find
that Fel-Pro anti-seize lubricant C5-A
works well. You should only have to lubri-
cate the mechanism when it is not clamping
well. Remove the banjo from the lathe and
lubricate the sliding cam. Putting oil on the
shaft helps ensure that the banjo continues to slide
freely.
Maintenance & Lubrication
Vase & Stand
by Frank Sudol
