Pakboats Quest 150 User manual

Pakboats Quest 150 Assembly Instructions
1. Unpack the Quest from its bag, stretch out the black hull skin and
assemble all the shock corded rods. There should be five. The two
longest rods are the gunwales. The rod with plastic clips attached
is the keel. The two short rods are seat side rails.
2. The gunwale rods are installed
by sliding them into channels at the top of the hull skin on
each side, starting from the bow. Note: Slide in the gunwale
end with a black end plug. Slide both gunwales in as far as
they will go. Check to make sure they
are all the way in to the stern stem. Lift
the free end of the bow stem so it pivots
up and forward. This will move forward
the two short rod ends connected to the stem. Connect the rod ends to the
gunwale ends and turn the bow stem back to its position in the hull. The
rod ends and gunwales should form straight rods.
3. Connect the keel rod to the bow and stern stems. The keel is marked with tape at the bow end,
and there is a matching mark on the bow stem. Note that one
joint behind the center of the keel is flexible and forms a hinge.
4. Lay out the U-shaped cross ribs next
to the Quest with the narrowest near
the ends and the widest at the center
(size and shape are identical in bow
and stern). Please note that the

openings in the gunwale channels closest to bow and stern are for the short rods marked "A"
shown in point #6. Each cross rib is connected at 3 points – at the keel and each gunwale. First
pay attention to the connection to the keel. The plastic clip at the center of the cross rib has an
open side. The open side should face into the latch clip that is attached to the keel (if it does
not, please turn the cross rib around 180 degrees).
5. The plastic clips that connect the cross ribs to the gunwales have a locking function. To unlock,
turn the locking sleeve so that the locking “wing” points into the boat
at about 45 degree angle. Starting at the center, insert the top of the
cross rib through an opening in the gunwale channel and clip it to the
gunwale. Repeat on the opposite side of the
Quest. Clip the center to the keel rod and
secure with the elastic band (the keel rod
will not be straight at first, but it straightens
as you install more cross ribs). Make sure the bottom of the bow stem
is centered in the skin. Lock the clips at the tops of the rib by turning
the locking sleeves so that they are aligned with the sides of the
Quest. Working towards both ends, install the rest of the cross ribs. Note: Rib #2A is closer to
the bow, and rib #2B is closer to the stern.
6. Two short "A" rods (see picture on right) get added between the
gunwales and the keel near the bow and stern. The locking C-clip
should engage the gunwale, and the simple C-clip should engage the
keel. Unlock the Locking C-clip and connect the rod to a gunwale
through the opening in the kayak skin. Connect the other end to the
keel. If it is tight, move the bottom (keel) end back so the rod is at an
angle. Then connect to the keel and push the bottom end forward so it
is perpendicular to the gunwale. Lock the Locking clip. Repeat with
the other support rod on the other side. Repeat with the two rods at
the other end of the hull.
7. 7. Install one of the seat side rails into the
brackets on the cross ribs. (The center of the
side rail should be behind the center cross rib).
Move the plastic rings towards the center to
engage the seat brackets. Place the seat on the seat rail as illustrated with the inflatable pad
facing forward, and place the other seat rail on the opposite side of the seat. Pivot the seat and
side rail down so the side rail snaps into brackets on the cross ribs. Lock into place by moving

the plastic rings to engage the seat brackets. The front of the seat is supported by the center
cross rib. Straps under the seat keep the seat centered. Run each strap to the side, around the
seat's side rail and back to the buckle. Adjust the straps to center the seat.
8. The back band is attached to the hull with 4 buckles.
The webbing straps on the sides are attached in front
of the seat, and the elastic cord on the back is
attached behind the seat. Note: The elastic cord is
attached to the back band at the middle and at one
edge. The edge attachment should face down. This
will help elevate the back band.
9. Place the deck on top of the hull, oriented so that the wide end of
the cockpit faces the stern. Position the deck so that the ends of the
Velcro tape on deck and hull match at the bow. Set a few inches of
the Velcro on each side of the hull to secure the deck in position.
Move to the stern. Pull the deck tight (towards the stern) and set a
few inches of the Velcro at the stern. Move to the cockpit area, set
the Velcro on one side of the hull so that the edges line up, moving
from the center towards one end, then from the center to the other
end. Repeat the process on the other side of the hull. If the deck seems tight, it may be helpful
to put the hull on its side and lean on it a little to compress the hull.
10. Open the stern end of the deck far enough to get access
to the air valves. Inflate the upper air cells in the sides
of the hull. (It is important to inflate the upper cells
first. Failure to do so could damage the air tube.) A
good pressure is what you can easily produce with the
Quest pump. Inflate the lower air cells and close the
deck. The hull is now fully assembled.
11. Fold the bow end of the deck down over the bow and fold in the sides
so they rest snugly against the sides. Pull the end cap up to cover the
deck. Tuck the extra end cap fabric down
next to the sides of the hull. Place one
end cap plate flat on top of the deck,
then the other one. Secure as illustrated
in the picture.
12. Repeat the process described under 11. at the stern. Please note
that the stern end cap is shaped differently to avoid interfering
with the optional rudder. The process is almost the same, but the
end cap's “tail” should wrap around the stern and attach to a Velcro patch on the outside of the
edge of the deck.

13. The cockpit rim consists of 4 shock corded aluminum pieces with
bends. Please assemble it, and connect the
two ends together. The narrow end should
face towards the bow. Insert the rear end
of the cockpit rim under the deck. Place
the bow under the top of the cockpit and
set the snap. Pull the rear end of the
cockpit rim up so it fits snugly in the
cockpit opening. Run the elastic cord (that
is attached behind the cockpit)
around the cockpit to the front,
tighten it well and continue
around the cockpit to the rear so
that it fits twice around the
cockpit below the cockpit rim.
This will keep the cockpit rim
securely in position to support a
spray skirt.
14. The deck support under the front of the cockpit is
attached to the deck through triangular supports
that wrap over the gunwales to the inside (see
illustration picture). The top of the deck support
should face forward when the deck is installed.
Pull the top back until it is stopped by its retaining
straps.
15. There are fabric
flaps attached to
the sides of the
hull on each side between the cockpit and the bow and between
the cockpit and the stern. Fold them up over the deck and secure
the elastic cords with the plastic hooks. Adjust the cords so the
hooks line up along the center of the deck. Your Quest is fully
assembled.
16. Before you go paddling, inflate the thigh support at the forward end of the seat (this is designed
to be inflated by mouth). It is easiest to overinflate and then let out some air once you are seated
until the seat feels just right. Tighten the elastic cord that is attached to the back band. It should
hold the back band up and pull it back so you can adjust it with the side straps once you
are seated.
17. In good weather conditions, the Quest 150 can be paddled without the deck. The assembly
process is the same, with one exception. There is a strip of Velcro attached under the end cap at
each end. When the deck is not used, put the Velcro strips across the hull and attach to the
Velcro at the other side. This will support the end cap plates.

DISASSEMBLY/PACKING
This is pretty straight forward. It is more or less the same as the assembly process – inreverse. But it
may be helpful to point out some details.
1. Remove the inflatable hip pads (if you have them). Open the valves and roll the pads up tight.
Close the valves.
2. Undo the elastic cord around the cockpit. Open the snaps and remove the cockpit rim. Fold up the
cockpit rim by stepping on the stern end and lifting the bow end. Make sure all the cockpit rim parts
are disconnected from eachother. Twist the bow end 180 degrees and moveit down to the stern end.
This folds the cockpit rim as small as it can get.
3. Open theend capsand peel the deck off the hull. Turn the deck upside down. Roll up or fold the
deck. Peaked aluminum cross pieceand thigh straps can stay permanently installed in the deck to
make assembly/disassembly quicker and easier.
4. Open all the air valves to let air out of the hull side tubes. Remove the seat, all the cross ribs and
keel. Slide the gunwales out of their channels.
5. Fold the skin lengthwise. The first fold along the edge of the keel reinforcement strip. Then fold
in half (also lengthwise). Starting from the end opposite the air tube valves, fold the skin into a
lengththat just fits inside the bag.
REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE
The most common repairs will be abrasions or punctures to the boat skin. Those are easily repaired
with the supplied repair kit. Please note: The Clifton brand adhesive in the repair kit is by far the best
we have found to make repairs on polyurethane material. Aquaseal will work, but the cure time is
much longer. It is very important to use an adhesive that is compatible with polyurethane.
1. Cut a patch large enough to cover the damaged area plus a ¾” (2 cm) area around the damage.
Round the corners. Make sure the repair area and the patch are clean. Cover both with a thin
layer of adhesive. Wait for the adhesive surfaces to feeldry to the touch. Apply patch. The boat
can goback on the water immediately, but the bond will continue to cure for about 24 hours.
2. For temporary frame repairs we recommend duct tape – with wooden splints as needed.
3. Do not use duct tape on fabric surfaces unless you have to. Its adhesive makes a real mess, and
permanent patches are really easy.
There is no need for regular maintenance, but we recommend that you rinse out the boat with fresh
waterafter use in salt waterand that you let the kayak dry completely before putting it in long term
storage. The kayak can be stored packed or assembled. The best is a cool anddry place. Cold and dry is
fine too – even well below freezing. But we avoid handling the boat when it is extremely cold.
WE HOPE YOU WILL HAVE MANY YEARS OF PLEASURE WITH YOUR PAKBOATS QUEST.

The perfect Travel Kayak
Quest in Norway
Quest in Hong Kong
ScanSport, Inc.
Enfield, New Hampshire
www.pakboats.com
[e-mail]
603-632-9500