Pergola kits USA CLASSIC CEDAR PERGOLA KIT User manual
CLASSIC CEDAR
PERGOLA KIT
FREESTANDING
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Shown – 10’x14’ Classic Cedar Pergola Kit,
Cedar Color Stain, top runners 8" o.c.
Thank you for purchasing the Classic Wood Freestanding Pergola. Depending on the
size of the pergola, installation can usually be completed in a day. These instructions
apply to both cedar and treated pine models.
There are a few things you should consider before installation:
1.) Do not store the Pergola components in direct contact with ground concrete, or
other moisture wicking surface as this may warp the components.
2.) The base for the pergola must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab
or on concrete footers, it should be level where the posts will rest. If not, it may be
necessary to cut the bottom of the posts so that the tops are all level. Other than this,
no cutting is necessary. If any additional cuts are needed, please contact us before
doing so. Making cuts without calling first may make installation diicult and
may void our warranties.
3.) These instructions show connection to asphalt using a wedge bolt. The same
method can be used with concrete. If connecting to an existing deck, a lag bolt and
deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
4.) The Classic pergola does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts.
It is important they are laid out correctly and double checked for accuracy before
permanently attaching it to the base.
* If you purchased a Pergola with the Heavy Duty Post Brackets, refer to the additional
instruction sheet that will be included in your kit.
1
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Setting up the template:
1.) Your pergola kit includes a wooden
template that is used to mark your post
locations. Notice that two of the 2’x4’ boards
have a marking near the ends. Build a box that
will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
NOTE: If you purchased a larger pergola
your template will be spliced in the center,
just match up the letters and fasten together
with (2) screws.
3.) Connect the corners of the template pieces
by driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of
the template boards.
2.) Arrange the template pieces so that they
are positioned in the exact location of where
the pergola will be placed. The boards with the
marking on the end will be across from each
other. The marks will show where the other
boards will be attached to create this box.
4.) When the template is in position, square
the template. Do this by measuring diagonally
from one corner to its opposite corner, then
measure diagonally between the other two
corners. These two dimensions MUST be the
same. Adjust the template until the diagonal
measurements are identical.
SECTION ONE – POSTS
2
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
5.) Once the template is “square”, mark the
post locations using the INSIDE corners of the
framed box on a concrete slab with a pencil.
After all the post locations are marked on the
concrete slab, remove and set the wooden
template aside.
Set the Brackets
6.) The brackets are the 8 L-Brackets in the
hardware box. Place them at the outside of
the pencil mark, one per corner. Next, drill a
hole into your concrete footer or slab. Using
a ½” masonry bit, drill a hole through the
bracket about ½” deeper than the length of
your anchor bolt. Make sure all of the concrete
dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if
needed. Add the washer and put the nut on
the bolt so the threads are just above the nut.
You may need to hit it down with a hammer,
you can use a 2x board to hit the top of the
bolt so you do not damage the threads on the
bolt. Hammer the bolt down until ¾” of anchor
is exposed. Tighten the nut, and the base of
the bolt will expand. Once completed, install
the rest of the brackets, one per corner. If you
purchased a pergola with more than 4 posts,
install a bracket for each additional post.
3
Setting the Posts
7.) As you can see there are notches on top of
the post, make sure all notches are turned in
the same direction as the main headers run.
Attach all the posts to the bracket using (5)
2 ½” screws per bracket.
Post Bases
8.) Now you are ready to install the Post Bases.
Get a ladder and slide the base over the top
of the post (see picture above). There are (4)
screws per base, it does not really matter which
way they are turned, although we recommend
keeping the screws turned in the same
direction. Repeat this step for each post.
As shown above, you can fasten your template on the top side of the post to keep everything straight and
sturdy while you are fastening the headers.
4
9.) If using the original post locations, a line is
drawn on each of the four 2’x8’ beams. This is
a mark that will align with the outside edge of
each post as shown.
10.) A helper (or two) will be needed when
setting the beams. The marks will face the
posts. Lift into place, setting in the notch at
the top of the post, and make sure that the
ends over hang the same on both ends. Attach
using (4) 2 ½” screws on each post per side.
NOTE: If the pergola is longer than 16 feet, set
a total of 8 beam pieces. The flat ends will butt
together in the center of the middle beams.
Attach to the post with (3) screws on each side
of the seam. When testing the notch alignment,
add runners at the notches on either side of the
middle seam.
SECTION 2 - SETTING BEAMS
5
P age | 7
Section 5 - Setting Beams
18. If using the original post locations, a
line is drawn on each of the four 2x8
beams. This is a mark that will align
with the outside edge of each post as
shown. If the posts are moved, they
will need to be measured at the
bottom where the outer edge of the
beam will be located. Simply set the
beams against the bottom of the posts
(above the bases) and measure to
make sure that both ends extend
beyond the posts by the same
distance. Use the dimension on the
first post and transfer the new line to
the other 3 beams. Be sure that the
new line is the same distance on all
the beam ends from the factory
marked line on the beam. Erase the
original line using an eraser, or
lightly sanding.
19. A helper (or two) will be needed
when setting the beams. The marks
will face the posts. Lift into place,
setting in the notch at the top of the
post, and make sure that the ends
over hang the same on both ends.
Attach using one screw on each post
for now. (more will be added later)
Repeat with the other side of the
post, and make sure that the ends are
aligned.
20. Measure the distance from the ends,
and do not align visually. Even the
slightest difference will not allow the
runners to sit in the notches on the
top of the beams. When all 4 beams
are in place, test to make sure all the
runner notches are aligned.
NOTE: If the pergola is longer than 16 feet, set a total of 8 beam pieces. The flat ends will butt
together in the center of the middle beams. Attach to the post with 3 screws on each side of the
seam. When testing the notch alignment, add runners at the notches on either side of the middle
seam.
Using 2½" screws
4 per side
11.) Continue with the rest of the beams.
Repeat with the other side of the post, and
make sure that the ends are aligned. Measure
the distance from the ends, and do not align
visually. Even the slightest dierence will not
allow the runners to sit in the notches on the
top of the beams. When all 4 beams are in
place, test to make sure all the runner notches
are aligned.
12.) Now you would be ready to install the
return beams. These go in between the
header. Keep it flush on bottom of 2’x8’ header
center of post. Attach it with (4) 3½” screws.
P age | 8
21. Now you would be ready to install the
return beams. These go in between the
header. Keep it flush on bottom of 2x8
header center of post. Attach it with 4
3½" screws.
Section 6 - Setting Runners
22. Use a level to insure that the posts are
parallel with the other posts. Check
that one of the posts is plumb.
Measure the distance between the
posts at the bottom, by sliding the
post base up and measuring the
distance at the bottom of the post. Be
sure that the posts are the same
distance apart near the top. Double
check all posts with the level before
attaching runners.
23. A helper may be needed to hold
the posts in place when positioning
the first runner. Make sure that the
overhang is the same on both ends of
the runner. Measure from the beam
to the end of the runner, or to the
beginning of the scroll cut on both
sides. (as shown to the right) Slide the
runner until the overhang is the
same on both ends.
24. Attach one side using a screw on an
angle as shown. Attach each runner
to both beams on each side.
Using 3½" screws
4 per runner
6
P age | 9
25. Check the other side of the runner.
Be sure that the posts are plumb and
the overhang is the same. Attach with
another screw. Repeat this on the
opposite end of the pergola, making
sure that the overhangs are the same as
with the first runner. Set the remaining
runners in place and attach each of
the runners to the front beam, while
measuring each overhang. Repeat on
the opposite beam. Be sure to check
the overhangs on the back beam.
Section 7 - Setting Top Runners
26. Notice that there are marks on top of
the main runners where the top
runners are to be attached. These
markings are about 16" on center, or
another dimension if the pergola was
ordered with additional top runners.
There are also markings and pre
drilled holes on each of the 2x2
runners.
27. Set the top markings on the centers of
the runners, attach with 2½" screws.
Check that the overhangs are the same
on both sides of the top runners.
On longer pergolas, the top runners will be in two pieces. They are cut so that when properly
positioned the overhangs will be the same. You will want to position all the runners so that
they are correctly positioned before attaching them.
Section 8 - Corner Braces
28. There will be 8 corner braces. 4 of them
will be larger. These will go up in
between the 2x8 headers. The smaller
ones will go right underneath the return
beams.
P age | 10
29. Attach the braces with 4 6" black head
screws. Finish all four braces.
33. Get the other braces and slide them
up between the headers. Push them
up until the bottom of braces are
lined up.
34. When in position, attach to the
posts with the black screws as in the
previous steps. Next attach the beam
from the inside with four screws as
shown
35. Repeat on the other three corners. If
the pergola has middle posts, only
the braces that go between the beams
are needed. Measure down from the
beam to the bottom of the brace on the
corner braces, and set the middle post
braces at that same height.
Using
2½"
screws
4 on
each
side
Fasten Corner Braces
NOTE: There are a total of (8) corner braces.
Four braces will be larger and will go up in
between the 2’x8’ headers, while the smaller
braces will go underneath the return
beams.
13.) First attach the smaller braces that go
underneath the return beam. Attach with (4) 6”
black screws. Turn the screws in your brace to
the inside of pergola. Continue with the rest of
the braces.
14.) The next step is to install the larger braces.
Slide them up between the headers, push the up
until the bottom of the brace is aligned with the
smaller brace. You may use a square as shown to
the right to make sure everything is even. Attach
brace to post with (2) 6” black screws.
Next attach the beam from the inside and
outside with (3) 2 ½” screws per side as
shown. Continue until all braces are complete.
7
Anchor remaining Posts to Concrete
15.) Sliding the base up towards the top you
can fasten it to the post with a screw to keep
it from falling down. Make sure the posts are
level and still at the L-shaped pencil mark.
Screw the second bracket to the post using
(5) 2 ½” screws. It does not matter which side
of the post, however we recommend going
caddy-corner. Keep in mind you should stay
approximately 4” away from the edge of the
concrete. Refer back to step 6 for setting the
brackets. Once completed remove the screw
and place the base in its correct position.
Installing Rafters
16.) A helper may be needed to hold the posts
in place when positioning the first rafter. Make
sure that the overhang is the same on both
ends of the rafter. Measure from the beam
to the end of the rafter, or to the beginning of
the scroll cut on both sides (as shown above).
Slide the rafter until the overhang is the
same on both ends.
P age | 8
21. Now you would be ready to install the
return beams. These go in between the
header. Keep it flush on bottom of 2x8
header center of post. Attach it with 4
3½" screws.
Section 6 - Setting Runners
22. Use a level to insure that the posts are
parallel with the other posts. Check
that one of the posts is plumb.
Measure the distance between the
posts at the bottom, by sliding the
post base up and measuring the
distance at the bottom of the post. Be
sure that the posts are the same
distance apart near the top. Double
check all posts with the level before
attaching runners.
23. A helper may be needed to hold
the posts in place when positioning
the first runner. Make sure that the
overhang is the same on both ends of
the runner. Measure from the beam
to the end of the runner, or to the
beginning of the scroll cut on both
sides. (as shown to the right) Slide the
runner until the overhang is the
same on both ends.
24. Attach one side using a screw on an
angle as shown. Attach each runner
to both beams on each side.
Using 3½" screws
4 per runner
8
P age | 8
21. Now you would be ready to install the
return beams. These go in between the
header. Keep it flush on bottom of 2x8
header center of post. Attach it with 4
3½" screws.
Section 6 - Setting Runners
22. Use a level to insure that the posts are
parallel with the other posts. Check
that one of the posts is plumb.
Measure the distance between the
posts at the bottom, by sliding the
post base up and measuring the
distance at the bottom of the post. Be
sure that the posts are the same
distance apart near the top. Double
check all posts with the level before
attaching runners.
23. A helper may be needed to hold
the posts in place when positioning
the first runner. Make sure that the
overhang is the same on both ends of
the runner. Measure from the beam
to the end of the runner, or to the
beginning of the scroll cut on both
sides. (as shown to the right) Slide the
runner until the overhang is the
same on both ends.
24. Attach one side using a screw on an
angle as shown. Attach each runner
to both beams on each side.
Using 3½" screws
4 per runner
P age | 9
25. Check the other side of the runner.
Be sure that the posts are plumb and
the overhang is the same. Attach with
another screw. Repeat this on the
opposite end of the pergola, making
sure that the overhangs are the same as
with the first runner. Set the remaining
runners in place and attach each of
the runners to the front beam, while
measuring each overhang. Repeat on
the opposite beam. Be sure to check
the overhangs on the back beam.
Section 7 - Setting Top Runners
26. Notice that there are marks on top of
the main runners where the top
runners are to be attached. These
markings are about 16" on center, or
another dimension if the pergola was
ordered with additional top runners.
There are also markings and pre
drilled holes on each of the 2x2
runners.
27. Set the top markings on the centers of
the runners, attach with 2½" screws.
Check that the overhangs are the same
on both sides of the top runners.
On longer pergolas, the top runners will be in two pieces. They are cut so that when properly
positioned the overhangs will be the same. You will want to position all the runners so that
they are correctly positioned before attaching them.
Section 8 - Corner Braces
28. There will be 8 corner braces. 4 of them
will be larger. These will go up in
between the 2x8 headers. The smaller
ones will go right underneath the return
beams.
17.) Attach one side using a screw on an
angle as shown. Attach each rafter
with (4) 3½” screws, (2) per side. Continue
with the rest of the rafters.
Setting Top Runners
18.) Notice that there are marks on top of
the main runners where the top runners are
to be attached. These markings are about 16”
on center, or another dimension if the pergola
was ordered with additional top runners. There
are also markings on each of the 2’x2’ runners.
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25. Check the other side of the runner.
Be sure that the posts are plumb and
the overhang is the same. Attach with
another screw. Repeat this on the
opposite end of the pergola, making
sure that the overhangs are the same as
with the first runner. Set the remaining
runners in place and attach each of
the runners to the front beam, while
measuring each overhang. Repeat on
the opposite beam. Be sure to check
the overhangs on the back beam.
Section 7 - Setting Top Runners
26. Notice that there are marks on top of
the main runners where the top
runners are to be attached. These
markings are about 16" on center, or
another dimension if the pergola was
ordered with additional top runners.
There are also markings and pre
drilled holes on each of the 2x2
runners.
27. Set the top markings on the centers of
the runners, attach with 2½" screws.
Check that the overhangs are the same
on both sides of the top runners.
On longer pergolas, the top runners will be in two pieces. They are cut so that when properly
positioned the overhangs will be the same. You will want to position all the runners so that
they are correctly positioned before attaching them.
Section 8 - Corner Braces
28. There will be 8 corner braces. 4 of them
will be larger. These will go up in
between the 2x8 headers. The smaller
ones will go right underneath the return
beams.
19.) Place the top runners at the pencil mark
by the rafters, then put the pencil mark that
is on top of the top runner at the side of the
runners. Make sure the “X” is on top of the
runner. Next, check that the overhangs are the
same on both sides of the top runners. Attach
with 2½” screws, using (1) screw per rafter.
NOTE: On longer pergolas, the top runners will
be in two pieces. They are cut so that when
properly positioned the overhangs will be the
same. You will want to position all the runners
first and check that they are correctly
positioned before attaching them.
The Classic Freestanding Pergola is now complete. If you purchased a canopy with your
pergola, follow the directions that are included with the canopy.
If additional options (Lattice top, privacy panels or corner lattice) were ordered, a separate sheet
of instructions is included. Be sure to call your project advisor with any questions.
ENJOY YOUR NEW WOOD CLASSIC
FREESTANDING PERGOLA
