Plymouth Plaza 1957 User manual

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SERVICE MANUAL
Model
P30 and P31
LP1 and LP2
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
ADJUSTMENTS RECONDITIONING
LUBRICATION -MAINTENANCE
Price $3.50 Net
Postage Prepaid in United States
Order by Number P58-501
CHRYSLER CORPORATION
PLYMOUTH DIVISION
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
DETROIT 31, MICHIGAN
Litho in U.S.A.
20M 1-58 P58-501
QUICK REFERENCE INDEX
To find Sections, bend manual back
to locate black spots
SECTION
1 Front Suspension
2 Rear Axle
3 Brakes-Power
4Clutch
5 Wheels and Tires
Page
Brakes
21 00
39 100
59 1110
61 10
Universal Joints and
6Propeller Shaft 75 00
81 00
135 010
9Transmission-Overdrive-143 110
PowerFlite-TorqueFlite
7 Steering-Power Steering
Q Frame-Rear Springs-
%) Shock Absorbers
SECTION Page
1Engines-V-8 and
6 Cylinder
2 Ignition System
Starting System
4 Generating System
5 Cooling System
6 Fuel and Exhaust System
275
325
335
341 00
353 00
361
SECTION Page
1Body
2 Accessories
3 Air Conditioning
4Instruments-Gauges-
Horn-Windshield Wipers
5 Lighting System
405
443
451 00
477
489 00
SECTION Page
1 Lubrication-Maintenance
2 Wiring Diagram
Alphabetical Index
495
501
511 00
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PLYMOUTH SERVICE MANUAL 3
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Customer confidence pays dividends over the years. Treating a customer's
car as you would your own makes an owner feel that you are rendering a
service, not simply selling a repair job. There's a great difference between an
honest desire to be of friendly service to a customer and a desire to simply
sell a job of service! A customer quickly recognizes the service man who takes
a personal interest in his welfare, and gets a feeling of confidence and
satisfaction that makes "habit" customers out of "now-and-then" customers.
Experience has shown that one of the best ways to create customer con-
fidence is to offer safety inspections and road tests as a part of your service
to the motorists in your community. Like other successful service men, you will
find that motorists appreciate rather than resent having your recommenda-
tions about what should be done to maintain safe vehicle operation.
There are over fifty-six million automotive vehicles in operation in the
United States. Every year as new vehicles are put into use, new inexperienced
drivers take the wheel, increasing the problem of handling traffic on our
streets and highways. There must be greater effort on the part of everyone
concerned to help keep these cars in safe operating condition. Much of the
responsibility falls on the shoulders of service men.
Service men have the responsibility of keeping motorists informed about
the overall condition of their vehicles-particularly those units upon which
the driver depends for safe operation.
Service men have the responsibility of educating drivers about the hazards
of driving an unsafe vehicle.
Service men have the responsibility of advising drivers about the need for
periodical safety-inspections.
Service men have the responsibility of keeping drivers informed about the
need for periodical safety maintenance.
Service men who accept these responsibilities and treat each customer's
car as though it were his own, will reap the benefits of customer confidence
and satisfaction.
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4PLYMOUTH SERVICE MANUAL
PLYMOUTH VEHICLE NUMBERS
MODEL Starting Vehicle Numbers
Detroit Evansville Los Angeles Newark
P-30 Plaza, Savoy, Belvedere 14,280,001 20,860,001 25,215,001 28,100,001
P-31 Plaza, Savoy, Belvedere 16,083,001 22,330,001 26,595,001 28,525,001
LP1 (6 cyl.) Plaza, Savoy, Belvedere LP1-1001 LP1E-1001 LP1L-1001 LP1N-1001
LP2 (8 cyl.) Plaza, Savoy, Belvedere LP2-1001 LP2E-1001 LP2L-1001 LP2N-1001
VEHICLE NUMBER LOCATION
The vehicle number (serial number) is located on a plate which is attached to
the left front face of the cylinder block.
ENGINE NUMBER LOCATION
The engine number is stamped on a boss on the left side at the front of the cylin-
der block on 6 cylinder engines. On 277,301 and 318 cu. in. V-8 engines, the
number is stamped on the left front face of the cylinder block. On 350 cu. in. V-8
engines, the number is stamped on the right side of cylinder block between the
coil and distributor.
BODY NUMBER LOCATION
The body number is stamped on a plate which is attached to the left side of the
engine side of the dash.
GENERAL DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Model -30andLP-1 P-31 LP-2
Number of Cylinders 6V-8
Bore and Stroke 31/4x45/9
in. 33/4x31/4 in. 32%2x31/8 .32%2 x 3%6 in. 4%6x33/4
in
Piston Displacement 230 cu. in. 277cu.in. 301 cu. in. 318 cu. in. 350 cu. in.
Compression Ratio 8.0 to 1 8.5 to 1 9.25 to 1 9.0 to 1 9.25 to 1 10.0 to 1
Maximum
Brake Horsepower 132 at
3600 rpm 197 at 4400 rpm 215 at 4400 rpm *235 at 4400 rpm 1-290 at 5400 rpm 225 at 4400 rpm *250 at 4400 rpm 1290 at 5200 rpm *305 at 5000 rpm
Taxable Horsepower 25.4 45.0 48.9 52.8
Maximum Torque 205 at
1600 270 at 2400 285 at 2800 305 at 2800 325 at 4000 330 at 2800 340 at 2800 330 at 3600 370 at 3600
Wheelbase 118 in. (122 in. Suburban Only)
Tread-Front 60.9 in.
Tread-Rear 59.6 in.
Overall Length 204.6 in.
Overall Width 78.2 in.
Turning Diameter 45.33 ft.
*Super-Pak frury *Golden Commando
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PLYMOUTH SERVICE MANUAL 5
9ofteulaftell
This Plymouth Service Manual has been prepared as a reference book of
complete service information for the 1957 and 1958 Plymouth models.
For convenience, the contents of the manual have been arranged in four
parts. Each part has been subdivided into sections. Each section contains charts
of data and specifications, adjustments and repair information, and diagnosis
procedures. A list of the subjects covered in each section will be found at the
beginning of the section. A complete alphabetical index appears in the back
of the manual.
To help diagnose the service needs of the Plymouth car, this manual con-
tains over 300 diagnosis procedures. In most instances it is advisable to make
a road test to verify the condition.
Throughout the manual, service data and specifications are given in chart
form. The clearances and specifications shown are based on the type of
equipment normally available for service work and do not in all cases
represent the manufacturing specifications.
This manual contains service information for units originally installed on
Plymouth cars as "special equipment." No attempt has been made to designate
such units as "special equipment" in this manual.
CHRYSLER CORPORATION
Plymouth Division
Service Department
Detroit, Michigan
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COTTERPIN
NUTRETAINER
WASHER
NUTCOTTERPIN---A
BUSHING
STRUT
RETAINER
BO LT-
SUPPORT BRACKET-_
BUSHING
UPPER CONTROL ARM
SHOCK ABSORBER
NUT
WASHER
BUSHING
SHAFT
SHIM
LOCKWASHERS SUPPORT BRACKET SWIVEL-04°
BOLT LOCK
LUBE FITTING
BALL JOINT-UPPER
BUSHING
NUTS
SHIM
NUT
BUMPER BUSHING-
WASHER'"
CAM
SEAT
TORSION BAR
SEAL-INNER
SEAL-OUTER
RETAINER
BUMPER
STEERING KNUCKLE
FLAT WASHER
NUTCOTTERPIN
NUTFLAT WASHER
COTTERPIN
BOLT
-SEAL
LOWER CONTROL ARM
LOCKWASHERS
NUT
oFBOLT
BOLT
BOLT
RETAINER
JOINT-LOWER
NUTS
WASHER LUBE FITTING
NUT
Figure 1-Front Suspension
58P 18
n cot
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PART ONE-CHASSIS
SECTION 1FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM
9Pages
Data and Specifications
1. General Information 7
2. Front Shock Absorbers 8
3. Ball Joints 10
4. Lower Control Arm 11
5. Upper Control Arm 12
6. Steering Knuckles 13
7. Lower Control Arm Strut 14
8. Torsion Bars 14
9. Checking Front Suspension Height 14
10. Front Wheel Alignment 15
11. Front Suspension Lubrication 18
12. Diagnosis Procedures 18
1. GENERAL INFORMATION
Torsion bar suspension used on Plymouth cars, con-
sists of two torsion bars (right and left hand), two sets of
upper and lower control arms, four ball joints and two
struts, used to position the lower control arms.
The front ends of the torsion bars engage the lower
control arms at the inner pivot points. The rear ends of
the bars engage adjustable anchor assemblies, which
are supported by brackets welded to the frame side rails,
as shown in Figure 2.
The inner end of the upper control arm has two rubber
bushings which are mounted in two brackets which are
bolted to the frame. The outer end of the upper control
arm is attached to the upper ball joint assembly, as
shown in Figure 3. Shim packs inserted between the
EXHAUST PIPE CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLTS
TORSION BAR ANCHOR
LOCK RING
ADJUSTING BOLT
ANCHOR BRACKET
ORSION BAR PART NUMBER
FRAME CROSSMEMBER
CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLT
Figure 2-Torsion Bar Rear Support Assembly
BRACKETS -UPPER CONTROL ARM
SHIM PACK
57P69 Figure 3-Upper Control Arm Mounting
AI LOWER CONTROL ARM SHAFT
STRUT BUSHING STRUT
57P71 LOWER CONTROL ARM
Figure 4-Lower Control Arm Mounting
7
57P70
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8CHASSIS
COTTER PIN SHAFT WASHERNUT TORSION
BAR
NUT ASHER
FRAME CROSSMEMBER
brackets and the frame side rails, establish the caster
and camber settings for each front wheel. See Figure 3.
The lower control arms are attached to the frame
crossmember by a pivot shaft and bushing assembly,
as shown in Figure 4. The pivot shafts are mounted in
replaceable rubber bushings, located at the rear of
number two crossmember. The shafts extend through
the crossmember and are secured by nuts and cotter-
pins, as shown in Figure 5.
The steering knuckles are connected to the upper and
COTTER PIN lower control arms by the ball joints, as shown in Figure
LOWER CONTROL ARM 6.
BUSHING 58P1 9 This eliminates the procedure of checking king pin
inclination. The term "steering axis inclination" will
hereafter be used.
Figure 5-Lower Control Arm Shaft and Bushing
*STEERING KNUCKLE
virUPPER CONTRO ARM BALL JOINT
STRUT MOUNTING BOLTS
LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT 57P68
Figure 6-Upper and Lower Control Arm Ball Joints
Figure 7-Lower Control Arm Strut Mounting
To maintain a fixed position in relation to fore and aft
movement of the lower control arm, a strut is attached
to the number one crossmember and to the lower control
arm on each side, as shown in Figures 4 and 7. The
forward ends of the struts are mounted in replaceable
rubber bushings, as shown in Figure 7. The rear end of
the struts are bolted securely to the lower control arm,
as shown in Figure 6.
The ball joints and the tie rod ends are the only points
in the new suspension requiring lubrication.
2. FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS
REMOVAL
Remove dirt from around the shock absorber upper
mounting area, then raise front of vehicle off floor, to
release tension on torsion bars. Slide a 1/4 inch wrench
over the flats on the top of shock absorber piston rods,
to keep rod from turning. Now, remove nut and cup
washers.
57x71Figure 8-Removing or Installing Shock Absorber
Lower Bushing
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FRONT SUSPENSION 9
FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Models P-30, LP-1 P-31, LP-2
Type Torsion Bar-Independent Suspension
Camber Left wheel + 'A to 0 degrees (Ye degree preferred)
Right wheel + 1/2 to -1/2 degree (0 degree preferred
Caster Manual Steering 0 to - 11/2
Power Steering + 11/2 to 0
(Set left and right side the same)
Toe-In %2 inch to 5/32 inch (1/s inch preferred)
Toe-Out on Turns With inside wheel at 20 degrees, outside
wheel should be 171/2 to 19 degrees
Steering Axis Inclination 61/2 degrees
Tie Rods Symmetrical
Wheel Bearing Type Tapered Roller
Tread Front 60.9 inch
Rear 59.6 inch
Wheel Base 118 in. all except Suburban
122 in. Suburban
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Upper Ball Joint Stud Nut 100 ft. lbs.
Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 135 ft. lbs.
Upper Control Arm Inner Pivot Bushing Bolt Nut 55 ft. lbs.
Upper Control Arm Support Bracket Screw-Lower 50 ft. lbs.
Upper Control Arm Support Bracket Screw-Upper 70 ft. lbs.
Lower Control Arm Shaft Nut-Outer 180 ft. lbs.
Lower Control Arm Shaft Nut-Inner 125 ft. lbs.
Lower Control Arm Strut Bushing Nut 40 ft. lbs.
Lower Control Arm Strut Bolt Nut 65 ft. lbs.
Tie Rod Clamp Bolts 10 to 15 ft. lbs.
Remove shock absorber lower eye mounting bolt and Remove the lower mounting bushing from the shock
nut from mounting bracket. Push the shock absorber up absorber eye using Tool C-3553, as shown in Figure 8.
sufficiently to retract piston rod, then slide shock ab- Press bushing out of eye.
sorber down and out between lower control arm and
frame. The lower cup washer may remain in place or
drop through when shock absorber is removed. Place the lower mounting in position. Using Tool
Using a suitable drift, force the inner steel sleeve out C-3553, press bushing into shock absorber eye until
of bushing, then remove bushing from frame opening. centered.
Check bushing for deterioration or fatigue. Install new
bushing as required. Before installing new bushing, in-
sert steel sleeve then dip bushing in water. Place in
position on frame. Using a hammer and rod of suitable
size, drive bushing into opening of frame. When in-
stalled properly, the groove in bushing will index with
opening in frame.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION
Always press against steel sleeve to avoid dam-
age to the assembly.
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10 CHASSIS
BALL JOINT
STEERING KNUCKLE
TOOL
57P66
Figure 9-Removing Upper Ball Joint from Knuckle
57x 73 BALL JOINT
TOOL
UPPER CONTROL ARM
STEERING KNUCKLE
Figure 10-Removing Upper Ball Joint from
Control Arm
Compress the shock absorber piston rod to its full
travel, then slide lower cup washer (concave side up)
over rod and down into position. Slide shock absorber
up into position between control arm and frame (be sure
piston rod enters steel sleeve through upper bushing and
into position).
Holding shock absorber in installed position, slide the
cup washer (concave side down) over piston rod and
down on bushing. Install nut finger tight. Position the
lower end of shock absorber in mounting bracket on
lower arm, then install retaining bolt, lockwasher and
nut. Tighten nut to 40 foot-pounds. Now, tighten the pis-
ton rod nut to 25 foot-pounds.
3. BALL JOINTSUPPER BALL JOINT
1. REMOVAL-Place a jack under the lower control
arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise wheel off
floor. Then remove wheel and tire as an assembly.
Remove cotter pin from the upper ball joint nut, then
loosen nut one or two turns. Install Tool C-3564 so that
the tool seats evenly against the ends of the upper and
lower ball joint stud, as shown in Figure 9. Spread tool
enough to place studs under pressure, then rap knuckle
sharply to loosen stud in knuckle. Do not force ball joint
from knuckle with tool alone.
Remove tool, nut and washer, then disengage ball
joint from knuckle. Remove ball joint dust cover and
grease seal. Remove the lubrication fitting from top of
ball joint, then using Tool C-3560, as shown in Figure 10,
unscrew ball joint from upper control arm.
2. INSTALLATION-When installing new ball joint,
it is very important that the ball joint threads engage
those of the control arm squarely.
With the lubrication fitting removed, screw ball joint
into control arm as far as possible by hand. Then using
Tool C-3560, tighten until ball joint housing is seated
on control arm.
CAUTION
If torque required to seat the ball joint is less than
125 foot-pounds the upper control arm will have to
be replaced.
Slide seal and dust cover up into position, over stud
then position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer
and nut. Tighten from 80 to 120 foot-pounds. Install
cotterpin. Install lubrication fitting with fitting pointing
to front of car and lubricate ball joint, using a good
grade of chassis lubricant. Then reinstall wheel and tire.
LOWER BALL JOINT
I. REMOVAL-Place jack under lower control arm as
close to the wheel as possible but allowing enough
clearance to remove lower ball joint. Then remove wheel
and tire as an assembly.
Remove ball joint nut cotterpin. Loosen nut one or two
turns. Install Tool C-3564 so that the tool seats evenly
against the ends of the upper and lower ball joint studs.
See Figure 11. Spread tool sufficiently to place studs
under pressure, then rap knuckle sharply to loosen stud
in knuckle. Do not force ball joint from knuckle with
tool alone.
Remove tool, nut and washer, then disengage ball
joint from knuckle. Remove ball joint dust cover and
seal.2. INSTALLATION-Remove the lubrication fitting
from bottom of ball joint, then using Tool C-3560, as
shown in Figure 9, unscrew ball joint from lower control
arm. When installing new ball joint, it is very important
that the ball joint threads engage those of the control
arm squarely.
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FRONT SUSPENSION 11
With the lubrication fitting removed, screw ball joint
into control arm as far as possible by hand. Using Tool
C-3560, tighten until ball joint housing is seated on con-
trol arm.
CAUTION
If torque required to seat the ball joint is less than
125 foot-pounds the lower control arm will have to
be replaced.
Slide seal and dust cover up into position, over stud
then position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer
and nut. Tighten from 110 to 160 foot-pounds. Install
cotterpin.
Install lubrication fitting and lubricate ball joint, using
a good grade of chassis lubricant. Reinstall wheel and
tire.
4. LOWER CONTROL ARMS
REMOVAL
Place a jack under the frame front crossmember and
raise the vehicle until both front wheels clear the floor.
Release load from torsion bar by backing out the anchor
adjusting bolt, as shown in Figure 2. Remove bolt and
swivel. If bolt is removed alone the swivel may fall
inside of bracket.
Using pliers, remove the lockring from the rear of
torsion bar anchor, as shown in Figure 12. Slide torsion
bar back through anchor sufficiently to disengage for-
ward end from lower control arm. Now, slide bar for-
ward and down, disengaging from anchor. Remove
from under car.
Remove wheel and tire as an assembly. Disconnect
shock absorber at lower control arm bracket, then push
shock absorber up into frame out of the way. Remove
TOOL
BALL JOINT
STEERING
KNUCKLE
57P65
Figure 11-Removing Lower Ball Joint from Knuckle
LOCK RING
TORSION BAR
57x105
Figure 12-Removing or Installing Torsion Bar
Lock Ring
the nuts, lockwashers and bolts that attach the strut to
the lower control arm.
Remove the cotterpin from the lower ball joint nut,
then loosen nut one or two turns. Install Tool C-3564 so
that the tool seats evenly against the ends of the upper
and lower ball joint studs. See Figure 11. Apply sufficient
pressure to place studs under pressure, then rap knuckle
sharply to loosen stud in knuckle. Do not force ball joint
from knuckle with tool alone.
Remove tool, nut and washer, then disengage ball
joint from knuckle. Remove cotterpin, nut and washer
that attaches the lower control arm shaft to the frame.
With washer and cotterpin removed, reinstall nut until
flush with end of shaft.
Using a hammer and brass drift, loosen shaft (a ta-
pered fit in front crossmember), then remove nut. Now,
slide the lower control arm and shaft out from rear of
crossmember.
WASHER FLANGE
_rilr".w'BUSHING
57x74
Figure 13-Lower Control Arm Shaft Bushing
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12 CHASSIS
111111ft..-__
SHAFT AND
BUSHING
LOWER
CONTROL
ARM ...-TOOL
57x 75
Figure 14-Pressing in Shaft and Bushing
LOWER CONTROL ARM SHAFT BUSHING
1. REMOVAL-Place lower control arm in an arbor
press, (with torsion bar hex opening up). Press shaft
and bushing out of control arm, using a brass drift.
Remove cotterpin, nut and washer from end of shaft,
then slide bushing from shaft, as shown in Figure 13.
Slide new bushing over shaft (flange end first) and seat
on shoulder of shaft. Install washer and nut, then tighten
from 100 to 150 foot-pounds. (Hold shaft securely in vise
with protector jaws). Install cotterpin.
Place lower control arm in arbor press, then place
shaft and bushing in position over arm and press into
arm, using Tool C-3556, as shown in Figure 14. Press
until flanged portion of bushing is seated.
2. INSTALLATION-Position shaft and control arm in
frame crossmember in approximate operating position.
Install washer and nut. Tighten nut from 150 to 200 foot-
pounds. Install cotterpin.
Slide the lower ball joint stud into steering knuckle
and install washer and nut. Tighten nut from 100 to 160
foot-pounds. Install cotterpin.
Withdraw shock absorber from its position up in frame
opening and engage with mounting bracket. Install
bolt, washer and nut. Tighten to 40 foot-pounds.
Position strut on lower arm, install bolts, washer
and nuts. Tighten to 65 foot-pounds. Install wheel and
tire assembly. Do not lower vehicle at this time.
Before installing torsion bar, check the torsion bar
adjusting bolt and swivel for burred or stripped threads.
Install torsion bar. Coat hex ends of bar with grease or
lubriplate then slide torsion bar into hex of rear anchor.
NOTE
The torsion bars are marked R (right) and L (left)
on the end. It is very important that each bar be in-
stalled on its respective side of the vehicle as indi-
cated. The part number of the bar is stamped on the
opposite end. This end is to be installed on the
anchor end for identification purposes.
Turn bar until anchor cam is positioned as close to the
floor pan as possible. Now, engage front end of bar in
hex opening of lower control arm shaft. If the anchor
cam is not in the position just described when installing
bar, it will be impossible to adjust the front suspension
to the correct height.
Before installing lockring, center bar so that full con-
tact is obtained at anchor and arm shaft. Install lock-
ring, making sure it is seated in its groove. Then slide
the adjusting bolt swivel in position on anchor cam.
Hold in position while installing bolt and seat, as shown
in Figure 2.
Tighten bolt into swivel until approximately 1 inch
of threads are showing out of swivel. This is an approxi-
mate setting and is to be used only as a starting point
when adjusting for correct height. This setting is neces-
sary to place a load on the torsion bar before lowering
vehicle to floor.
Lower car to floor, then check and adjust suspension
as required. Refer to Checking Front Suspension Height,
Page 14.
5. UPPER CONTROL ARMS
REMOVAL
The upper control arm support mounting brackets are
bolted to the frame side rails, as shown in Figure 3.
These brackets should not be removed unless damaged
in an accident.
Place a jack under the lower control arm as close to
the wheel as possible. Raise jack until wheel clears floor.
Remove wheel and tire as an assembly.
Remove the cotterpin from the upper ball joint nut,
then loosen nut one or two turns. Install Tool C-3564, so
that the tool seats evenly against the ends of the upper
and lower ball joint studs. See Figure 10. Apply suffi-
cient pressure to place studs under pressure, then rap
knuckle sharply to loosen stud in knuckle. Do not force
ball joint from knuckle with tool alone.
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FRONT SUSPENSION 13
BUSHING WOOD BLOCK
UPPER CONTROL ARM
TOOL
Figure 15-Removing Upper Control Arm Bushing
UPPER CONTROL ARM
57x77
WOOD BLOCK
TOOL
BUSHING
Figure 16-Installing Upper Control Arm Bushing
Remove tool, nut and washer, then disengage ball
joint from knuckle. Remove the nuts, lockwashers and
bolts that attach the upper control arm and bushings to
the front and rear support. Lift upper control arm up and
away from support.
If it should become necessary to remove the mounting
brackets, care should be taken so as not to lose the align-
ment shim pack. If a shim pack is lost, a selection of
%6 inch thick shims may be used as a starting point.
Refer to Checking Front Wheel Alignment.
UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
1. REMOVAL-To remove the upper control arm
bushings due to wear assemble Tool C-3558, over bush-
ing and arm and press bushing out of arm, (from inside
out), as shown in Figure 15. Be sure the control arm is
firmly supported if a hammer and drift is used in place
of tool.
Position the flange end of new bushing in Tool C-3558,
then support the control arm squarely. Force bushings
into control arm (from outside) until tapered portion of
bushing seats on arm. See Figure 16. When installing
new bushings, be sure the control arm is supported
squarely at the point where bushing is being pressed in.
2. INSTALLATION-Slide the upper ball joint stud
into position in steering knuckle, then install washer
and nut. Tighten nut from 80 to 120 foot-pounds. Install
cotterpin.
6. STEERING KNUCKLES
REMOVAL
Place a jack under the lower control
the wheel as possible. Remove wheel,
Be sure and cover the brake shoes to
grease from soiling the lining.
arm as near to
tire and drum.
prevent dirt or
Remove the cotterpins, nuts and lockwashers that at-
tach the steering arm and brake dust shield to the steer-
ing knuckle. Now, remove steering arm, brake dust
shield, brake supports and shoes from the steering
knuckle but leaving the brake hose attached. Do not
allow the assembly to hang by the brake hose.
Remove the ball joint studs from the steering knuckles
as described in Ball Joints. Then lift steering knuckle
out and away from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Slide the upper and lower ball joint studs into steering
knuckle and install lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the
upper ball joint stud nut from 80 to 120 foot-pounds.
Install cotterpin. Tighten the lower ball joint stud nut
from 110 to 160 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin.
Slide the brake dust shield, support and shoe assem-
bly over knuckle and into position. Install lockwashers
and nuts on the upper rear and lower front bolts. Install
the upper front and lower rear bolts through dust shield
and steering knuckle, then slide steering arm over bolts.
Install nuts and tighten evenly to 50 foot-pounds. Install
cotterpins.
Remove covering from brake shoes, then replace
wheel tire and drum assembly. Properly adjust the front
wheel bearings to avoid excessive bearing preload.
Tighten the front wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90
inch-pounds while rotating the wheel. Selectively posi-
tion the nut lock over adjusting nut so that the spindle
cotterpin hole is in line with one set of slots in the nut
lock. Without removing the nut lock, back off nut until
the next set of slots are lined up with the cotterpin hole.
Install cotterpin to secure the nut lock, then remove jack.
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14 CHASSIS
FRONT
CROSS MEMBER
STRUT BUSHING
LOWER CONTROL ARM STRUT RETAINING WASHERS
57P73
Figure 17-Lower Control Arm Strut to
Frame Mounting
LOWER BALL
JOINT HOUSING
LOWER CONTROL ARM
BUSHING HOUSING
A4600
57P74
Figure 18-Measuring Front Suspension Height
7. LOWER CONTROL ARM STRUT
REMOVAL
Remove cotterpin, nut and bushing retainer from the
forward end of strut at crossmember. Remove the strut
to lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts. Slide
strut and inner bushing retainer from bushing in frame,
as shown in Figure 17. Remove bushing from front of
frame.
INSTALLATION
Dip new bushing in water and with the tapered portion
toward rear of vehicle, install in opening in frame using
a twisting motion until groove in bushing indexes prop-
erly with frame. With the cupped side out, slide the
washer over threaded end of strut, push strut through
bushing in frame.
Slide outer washer over end of strut (cupped side in).
Install nut and tighten sufficiently to install the strut to
lower control arm mounting bolts. Install bolts, lock-
washers and nuts and tighten to 65 foot-pounds. Tighten
nut on forward end of strut from 35 to 40 foot-pounds.
8. TORSION BARS
Should it become necessary to remove and install
either torsion bar, place a jack under the frame front
crossmember and raise the vehicle until both front
wheels clear the floor. Release load from torsion bar by
backing out the anchor adjusting bolt then remove bolt
and swivel. Using pliers, remove the lockring from the
rear of torsion bar anchor. Slide torsion bar back
through anchor sufficiently to disengage forward end
from lower control arm. Now slide bar forward and
down disengaging from anchor. Remove from car.
The only parts of the torsion bar rear anchor that may
require replacement are the adjusting bolts and swivel.
NOTE
The torsion bars are not interchangeable side for
side. They will be identified as either left or right by
the Letter R or 1 stamped on the end of the bar.
Place jack under center of front crossmember and
raise vehicle off floor. Then back out adjusting bolt and
seat, then remove bolt, seat and swivel. When reinstall-
ing, tighten adjusting bolt until approximately 1 inch of
threads show above swivel. This is an approximate
setting and should be used as a starting point when
setting suspension height.
This setting is necessary to place a load on the torsion
bar before lowering vehicle to floor. Check and set
suspension height.
9. CHECKING FRONT SUSPENSION
HEIGHT
Front suspension height should be checked and if
necessary, reset whenever service work has been done
on the front suspension. To check and adjust front sus-
pension height, place vehicle on level floor. Be sure
tires are inflated to recommended pressure. Be sure only
the weight of the vehicle is on the torsion bars. (No load
or passengers.)
Using a rule, measure from the floor to the lowest point
of the ball joint and from the floor to the bottom of the
lower control arm bushing housing, as shown in Figure
18.The difference in these two dimensions should be
within 21/B to 21/4 inches on all sedans and coupes. On
Suburban models the difference should be within 2%
to 23/4 inches. Fury models 1% to 13/4 inches.
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FRONT SUSPENSION 15
SUPPORT BRACKET
SHIM
SHIM PACK
SUB SIDE RAIL
Figure 19-Removing or Installing Shims
57P23
Take measurements on the opposite side of the car in
the same manner. After the differential measurements
have been established for each side, they should be
compared. The results must be held within 1/16 inch of
each other.
10. FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
After front wheel alignment has been once adjusted,
it should only be necessary to check the alignment once
a year under normal driving conditions. However, if
there is reason to suspect that the wheels are out of line
because the vehicle does not steer properly, or has been
damaged in an accident, a careful diagnosis should be
made first to see if the wheels need aligning or if new
parts need be installed.
When making adjustments or installing new suspen-
sion parts, the alignment angles in both front wheels
should be checked in the following order:
(a) Front Suspension Height
(b) Camber
(c) Caster
(d) Steering Axis Inclination
(e) Toe-in and Toe-out
All parts of the front suspension have been heat
treated and should any of these parts become bent, they
must be replaced. Under no circumstances should these
parts be heated in order to straighten.
PRELIMINARY ALIGNMENT CHECKS
When checking front wheel alignment, the following
inspections should be made to determine the necessity
for repair or replacement of parts of the suspension or
steering and accomplished before proceeding further.
1. Check type of tire wear. Inflate all tires to recom-
mended pressure (tires with equal wear on front). Check
adjustment of front wheel bearings.
2. Check the upper and lower ball joints for excessive
looseness. Check tie rod ends and idler arm for exces-
sive looseness. Check the rear spring "U" bolts for
tightness and that the rear axle has not shifted out of
position.
3. Check the vehicles wheel base (both sides) from
center to center of axles. This will determine if the front
suspension or frame is bent or if the rear axle has shifted.
4. Grasp the front bumper at the center and work the
front bumper up and down several times. This will place
the torsion bars and shock absorbers in their "normal"
position. The car must remain in a normal position, while
checking camber, caster, and steering axis inclination.
CASTER AND CAMBER
Caster and camber adjustments are made by the use
of IA6 and Y32 inch shims placed between the upper
control arm support brackets and the frame sub side
rails (refer to Figure 19). Shims may be changed at either
the front or rear bracket to change the caster setting.
Shims changed equally at both brackets change the
camber.
The removal of shims at the rear bracket or the addi-
tion of shims to the front bracket will decrease positive
caster. One shim (y,, 6 inch) will change caster approxi-
mately % °. The addition of shims at both front and rear
support brackets will decrease positive camber. One
shim OA 6 inch) at each bracket will change camber 5/ 6 °.
Jack up that side of the vehicle on which adjustment
is to be made. (Place jack under lower control arm as
near to the wheel as possible.) Loosen the upper control
arm support bracket bolts and add or remove shims as
required, as shown in Figure 19. Retighten bolts, remove
jack and bounce front of car to allow all parts to assume
their normal position.
DETERMINING SHIM CHANGE
On page 16 is a handy chart which will enable you
to approximate the shim changes necessary to bring
a car within the preferred specifications.
The chart is designed to operate much in the same
fashion as is the mileage charts found on most road
maps. The chart may be used for either left or right
wheels, as well as for cars equipped with manual or
power steering. The camber figures for the right wheel
will be found across the top of the chart and the figures
for the camber reading for the left wheel will be found
across the bottom of the chart. Figures for the caster on
a power steering equipped car will be found along the
left side. The figures for the manual steering car will
be found along the right side.
To use the chart, proceed as follows:
1. The car should be bounced so as to allow it to
assume its normal setting.
(Continued on Page 18)
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57P393
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18 CHASSIS
Determining Shim Change (Cont'd)
2. The car height should be checked and adjusted if
it's not within the specifications. THE FRONT SUS-
PENSION MUST ALWAYS BE SET AT THE PROPER
HEIGHT BEFORE ALIGNMENT CHECKS OR WORK
ARE PERFORMED.
3. A wheel alignment reading should be taken to
determine the present caster and camber settings for
each wheel. These settings should be recorded so they
will not be forgotten.
4. Locate on the chart, the camber reading for the
right wheel using the camber figures across the top of
the chart. Also locate the caster reading for the right
wheel using either the caster figures at the left side if
the car is equipped with power steering or right side
of the chart, if the car is equipped with manual steering.
Follow the columns until they cross. The square where
the two columns cross or intersect indicates the shim
change necessary to bring the right wheel within pre-
ferred setting range.
The first figure in the square indicates the shim change
necessary at the front bracket. The second figure indi-
cates the shim change necessary at the rear bracket.
A plus mark (+) indicates the addition of shims, a minus
mark (-) indicates the removal of shims.
NOTE
The chart is based on a 1/32 inch shim to enable
more accurate settings to the preferred specifications.
It is advisable to use 1/16 inch shims where pos-
sible to reduce the number of shims that have to be
handled. The shim pack should NOT exceed 9/16
inch. (Eighteen 1/32 inch shims or nine 1/16 inch
shims).
The same procedure should be repeated using the
appropriate figures for the left wheel. After the shims
have been changed as indicated by the chart, the align-
ment should be rechecked with the gauges to complete
the operation.
SHIM TABLE
Direction Front
Bracket Rear Bracket
Camber
(Positive)
Increase Remove Shims Remove Shims
Decrease Add Shims Add Shims
Caster
(Positive)
Increase Remove Shims or Add Shims
Decrease Add Shims or Remove Shims
STEERING AXIS INCLINATION
When camber can be adjusted within the recom-
mended limits, it is usually unnecessary to check the
steering axis inclination. However, if camber cannot be
adjusted within the recommended limits, steering axis
inclination must be checked. If the axis inclination is not
within 51/2 to 7° check for a bent frame, steering knuckle
or control arm.
TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
With the steering wheel in a straight ahead position
loosen the clamping bolts on the ends of tie rods and
adjust tie rods in the proper direction until toe-in is 1/4
inch. With toe-in adjustment set, position the ends of the
tie rods in the sockets so that both studs are against
either the front or back sides of the sockets, then tighten
the clamp bolts from 10 to 15 foot-pounds. This provides
sufficient angular rotation of the tie rod on the ball studs
and prevents interference on extreme turns. Always
check mid position of steering wheel after adjusting
toe-in.
11. FRONT SUSPENSION LUBRICATION
There are 8 lubrication fittings on the front suspension
which should be lubricated at 1,000 miles or 30 day
intervals. The lubrication fittings are located as follows:
One at each ball joint and one at each tie rod end.
The rubber bushings used in the front suspension are
designed to grip the contacting metal parts firmly and
operate as a flexible medium between parts. The use of
lubricants will destroy the necessary friction and cause
noise as well as premature failure of the bushings.
Do not lubricate the rubber bushings with any form of
oil, powder, brake fluid, rubber lubricant or other similar
lubricants.
12. DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
CAR LEADS TO ONE SIDE
The tendency of a car to lead to one side continuously
is sometimes referred to as "pulling to the left," or "pull-
ing to the right." Be sure to determine whether the
condition is due to driving on highly crowned roads.
1. CAMBER AND CASTER-If camber and caster is
not equal on each side, the car will lead to one side on
a level road.
With unequal camber, the car may lead to the side
which has the highest camber reading. If caster is not
equal, the car may lead to the side having the lowest
caster reading.
On most cars, the camber setting should agree with
the specifications shown on page 9, but when the car
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FRONT SUSPENSION 19
is driven on a highly crowned road, the camber can be
increased on the left side. However, the camber for the
left wheel should not be more than 1/2 degree greater
than that for the right wheel within the specified limits.
If the camber setting exceeds this recommendation,
excessive wear on the left front tire may result.
2. TIRES-Unequal tire pressure will cause the car to
lead to the side having the lowest pressure.
3. FRAME AND SUSPENSION UNITS-Bent suspen-
sion parts, or unequal wheelbase may create a change
in camber and caster great enough to cause the car to
pull to one side. To check for these conditions, measure
the wheelbase, center-to-center, between the front and
rear wheels on both sides. These measurements should
be equal. If they are not, look for; a broken main leaf in
rear spring; a broken center bolt in rear spring; bent
parts in front suspension system; or a bent frame.
4. BRAKES-Inspect the adjustment of each front and
rear wheel brakes for "Dragging."
5. STEERING TUBE AND WORM ASSEMBLY-A bent
steering tube and worm assembly will cause hard steer-
ing and may result in the car pulling to one side. To test
for this condition, jack up the front end of the car and
turn steering wheel to extreme right and left. If inter-
mittent drag is felt tube may be bent.
WANDER
The term "Wander" means the tendency of the car to
drift slightly to one side, then to the other, under normal
driving conditions while the driver attempts to steer
straight ahead. It is generally caused by tightness in the
system.
This condition should not be confused with normal
wander caused by high or gusty winds striking the side
of the car when driving at high speeds.
If tightness appears to originate in the steering gear
or steering column, disconnect the steering gear arm
and turn the steering wheel, to check for a bind in the
steering column.
1. STEERING WHEEL-An improperly centered steer-
ing wheel will give the effect of wander. The steering
wheel is correctly centered when the spokes are equally
positioned, with the front wheels pointing straight ahead.
2. TIRES-A smooth tread on front tires, may cause
wander when the car is driven over gravel or "black-
top" roads. Under-inflation of both front or rear tires may
cause unstable steering and result in wander.
3. CASTER-Bent front wheel suspension parts, or
unequal wheelbase may create a change in the caster
great enough to cause the car to wander. To check for
these conditions, measure the wheelbase, center-to-
center between the front and rear wheels on both sides.
These measurements should be equal. If they are not,
look for: a broken main leaf in rear springs; a broken
center bolt in rear spring; bent parts in front suspension
system; or bent frame.
FRONT END NOISES
1. CONTROL ARM PIVOT BUSHING-Worn or loose.
2. CONTROL ARM MOUNTINGS-Loose.
3. STRUT BUSHINGS-Worn or loose.
4. SHOCK ABSORBER-Loose.
5. WHEEL BEARINGS-Loose or worn.
6. TIE ROD ENDS-Ball joints worn.
TIRE WEAR
1. STRUT BUSHINGS-Loose or worn.
2. TIE ROD ENDS-Worn or loose.
3. TIRE PRESSURE-Low or uneven.
4. WHEELS-Improperly aligned.
WHEEL BEARINGS
To determine if the wheel bearings are worn or dam-
aged, road test the car and apply brakes. This action
will take some of the load off the wheel bearings, and
noise if present, will diminish, indicating that the bear-
ings are at fault. Raise front wheels and check for loose
bearings by moving wheels in and out. If a wheel is
loose, remove it and check condition of bearings and
bearing cups before tightening the bearings.
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