QuiQue's Aircraft Semi Scale Yak-54 User manual

Semi Scale Yak-54, ARF 102” Generation II
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Specifications
Wingspan: 102 in
Length Including Spinner: 91 in
Wing Area: 1,975 sq in
Weight (RTF): 25-28 lb
Recommended Engines:
Gas 100-110cc

Table of Contents
Quique’s Aircraft Company 3
Covering Colors 4
Going Over the Covering 4
Hardware Supplied 5
Additional Required Tools and Adhesives 6
Servo Selection 8
Using the Manual 8
Warning 8
Warranty Information 8
Section 1-Preparing Fuselage 9
Section 2-Horizontal Stab Installation 10
Section 3-Elevator, Rudder and Aileron Control Horn Installation 12
Section 4-Preparation and Installation of Hinges 14
Section 5-Wing Anti-Rotation Pins and Servo Installation 17
Section 6-Tail Wheel Installation 21
Section 7-Elevator Servo Installation 22
Section 8-Rudder Servo and Pull/Pull Installation 24
Section 9-Engine Mounting 26
Section 10-Landing Gear Installation 33
Section 11-Fuel Tank Installation 35
Section 12-Engine Cowling 37
Section 13-Canopy Installation 39
Section 14-Radio Equipment 40
Balancing the Model 44
Control Throws 45
Preflight at the Field 48
DA100 and 3W 106 Engine Template 49
3W-106 Canister Support Dimension 50
2

Quique’s Aircraft Company
3410 Saint Paris Pike
Springfield, OH 45504
Phone: (937) 629-0339
Fax: (937) 629-0335
Email: [email protected]
Website:www.QQAircraft.com
Online-Support:http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_437/tt.htm
Quique and I want to express our thanks to you for choosing our 102” Yak-54.
We think that you will enjoy one of the best flying model aerobatic airplanes
available. It is patterned after the 37% Yak-54 which took First Place honors at
2006 Don Lowe Masters Champion and 2006 Tucson Free Style Champion. The
2003 Free Style Championships in Lakeland Florida, First Place at the Don Lowe
Master competition 2003 & 2004, First Place Tucson Shoot Out 2004 Free Style,
First Place XFC 2004, precision and free-style and Third Place at the
Tournament of Championships in Las Vegas in 2002.
We have tried to prepare the best assembly manual possible along with best
support on our line of Aircraft. We are happy to announce that we have a support
forum on www.Rcuniverse.com that is being led by
Mr. Reza Gholamipour. Imagine, you are building your plane during the weekend
when we are closed and you desperately need to get an answer to your question
to continue building. Well we are happy to tell you that your question has most
likely already been asked and answered on the RC Universe forum “Quique’s
Aircraft Support.” If not, just post your question on the most appropriate thread
and have the answer in matter of hours.
Also we would like to ask you to check our support forum for any updates that
may pertain to your aircraft before starting your assembly process.
Good flying to you!
Quique, Sandra, Wayne, Molly and Reza
3

Covering Colors
Ultra-cote covering used on this 102” Yak-54 can be purchased from Horizon
Hobbies Website. The codes are as follows:
Deep Blue Hanu873
True Red Hanu866
White Hanu870
Bright Yellow Hanu872
Going Over the Covering
Before beginning the assembly of your Yak-54, remove each part from its bag for
inspection. If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or covering
iron to remove them. Use caution while working around areas where the colors
overlap to prevent separating the colors. Make sure you go over the edges with
your iron as well.
4

Hardware Supplied
Pull/Pull Rudder
30 Hinges and Wing pins/clips Tail Wheel
Aileron/Elevator Titanium rods & ball links
Fuel Tank
Canopy hardware
Cowl hardware
Optional Dubro Hardware to complete your Assembly:
Wheels and Axles
Control Horn System
5

Additional Required Tools and Adhesives
• Covering/Trim iron
• Xacto knife, #11 blade
• Pacer hinge glue (PT-55)
• 5, 15 and 30-minute epoxy
• Petroleum jelly/Lithium grease
• Acetone/Alcohol swabs
• Felt-tip marker
• Pencil and Marker
• Ruler
• Drill
• Drill bit 1/16”,1/8”, ¼”, 3/16”, #33, #25, #54
• Wire cutter
• Course and fine sandpaper
• Thin, medium and thick C/A
• Full threaded servo mounting screws
• Sullivan inner nyrod
• Pliers
• Masking tape
• Ultra fine point sharpie
• Electrical tape
• Double-sided tape
• Rat-tail file
• Pin vise
• Round toothpick
• Velcro
• Thread Locker
Extensions:
• (2) 24” and (2) 3” servo extensions for Ailerons
• (2) 48” servo extension for Elevators
• (1) 24” servo extension for throttle
• (2) 12” servo extension from Aileron matchbox to Receiver
6

All Other Parts Required to Complete the Aircraft
• DA100 or similar engine
• MTW 75 Canisters with 50mm drop down header or Stock Mufflers or similar
set up for different engine
• 1.5” Aluminum stand offs
• (8) JR 8611a or similar Digital servo
• (1) JR 4735 or similar analog servo
• (4) 1.5” and (2) 1.25” single side Aluminum servo arms and (2) 3” double side
aluminum servo arm for all control surfaces. (1) Plastic servo arm for throttle.
• (1) 4000 mah Li-Ion Duralite plus battery or similar for Receiver
• (1) 2000 mah Li-Ion Duralite plus battery or similar for ignition
• (1) Heavy-duty regulated failsafe switch such as Duralite #65060-HD for
receiver
• (1) Duralite digital switch with built-in 5.5v regulator for ignition (P/N #80401)
or similar
• (1) 8-channel receiver
• (1) 4 ½” Airwild Extra style spinner or similar
• (1) NX or Mejzlik 27x10 2-Bladed Prop
7

Servo Selection
The servos used for the control surfaces of this Yak-54 are as follows:
Ailerons (4), JR 8611a
Elevator (2), JR 8611a
Rudder (2), JR 8611a
Throttle, any standard analog servo
Make sure you use same or equivalent torque servos that are digital.
Please do not risk your plane by using low torque or analog servos.
This Yak-54 has large control surfaces and fully capable of any maneuvers that a
pilot is able to perform. Therefore, using weak servos will increase chance of
flutter and may result in a crash.
Using the Manual
This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly easier to understand
and to provide breaks between each major section. Remember to take your time
and follow the directions.
Warning
I am sure that for the most of you this is not your first venture into the World of
flying radio-controlled aircraft. For those of you that may be entering this exciting
sport early on in your modeling experience and for you with vast experience, I
think we all need to be reminded of the possible dangers that are associated with
a high performance aircraft of this type. This is not a toy. This aircraft must be
flown in a safe manner at all times. You should always do a preflight check
including control surfaces hook-ups, radio operation, (please refer to your radio
equipment instruction manual for range checks and other pertinent related
information) and all other checks relating to the safe operation of this aircraft.
Warranty Information
Quique’s Aircraft Company guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover
any parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall QQAC’s liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Customer is responsible to check all the components upon receiving of his
aircraft and notify QQAC in case of any visible damage to any parts. Customer
should not proceed with building the aircraft as some damages can compromise
the integrity of the structure of the aircraft, resulting in more damages. In no case
will such damages be covered by QQAC.
8

Section 1-Preparing Fuselage
Required Tools and Adhesive
• Xacto knife, #11 Blade
• Trim Iron
Step 1
Use an Xacto knife with a # 11 blade
and cut away the film covering on
both sides of the fuselage for the
wing openings, Figure 1.
Some modelers may want to overlap
the film covering down inside the
fuse in the opening for the wing. For
example this type of an opening for
the wing may be done as follows.
Simply cut the film about 1/8 of an
inch to the inside of the opening for
the wing. You may then bend this
extra 1/8 inch flap of film over ninety
degrees to the inside of the fuse
opening and iron it to the edge of the
balsa sheeting over the foam. Use
the trim iron for this application. Do
not touch the foam (bead board) with
your trim iron. Watch how much
heat you use here as too much will
melt the foam.
Figure 1
9

Section 2-Horizontal Stab Installation
Required Tools and Adhesive
• Rat-tail File
• Acetone
• Xacto knife, #11 Blade
• Course sandpaper
• Thin CA
• 5-minute epoxy
• Microballons
Step 1
Use an Xacto number 11 blade and
cut open the film covering over the
area at the rear and on both sides of
the fuselage for the horz. stab. tube
and for the anti-rotation pin
openings. Also open the covering
where the two screws will
be used to attach both the left and
right horz. stabs in place.
Figure 2
Step 2
Open the long slots where the
rudder cables will pass through the
rear of the fuse.
Step 3
Prepare the C/F anti-rotation pins by
using coarse sandpaper and rough
up the end of the pin where it will be
inserted in the second rib in the
H.Stab. Now clean the pins with
acetone or alcohol to remove any
possible grease or dirt.
Step 4
Use 5-10 minute epoxy to attach the
pin to the number two rib that is
inside the horz stab. Then use thin
C/A to attach the pin to the root rib of
the horz stab.
Step 5
Add a little extra fillet of epoxy
with micro-balloons on the inside rib
around the anti-rotation pin to insure
a strong bond for the pins.
Step 6
If the anti-rotation pins fit too tightly
in the fuse sides, it will be necessary
to open the
10

holes in the fuse sides slightly with a
small rat tail file.
Very Important:
After completing the model and flying
it, in case you noticed any play in the
stab, please glue the horizontal stab
tube in place in the fuselage with
epoxy and micro-balloons.
11

Section 3-Elevator, Rudder and Aileron Control Horn Installation
Required Tools and Adhesive
• Xacto knife, #11 Blade
• 5-10 minute epoxy
• Alcohol Swab/Alcohol and
paper towel
The Optional Du-bro package that
we offer will have everything you
need to complete the following steps,
otherwise please use your
alternative.
Elevator Horn Installation
Step 1
Locate the elevator control horn hole
that is covered by ultracote. Remove
the covering from bottom by
xacto knife.
Step 2
Attach the Du-Bro Heavy Duty
Control Horn System, Cat. No. 866.
The hole is pre-drilled in each
elevator to accept the 8-32 X 2”
socket head cap screw.
Use a Dremel cut off wheel and
remove the socket head of the 8-
32 socket head screw just below the
screw head so you preserve as
much length of the screw as
possible.
Step3
Clean the screw with alcohol,l and
epoxy in place through the bottom of
the elevator in the hard point
provided. Insert full depth in the hole
with the head end of the cut off 8-32
screw entering all the way to the
covering film on the top of the
elevator.
Be sure that you do not put too much
epoxy in the hole and on the screw.
If necessary,
you may want to put a small pin hole
in the top covering just above the
hole to allow the excess epoxy to
escape. Clean excess epoxy with an
alcohol swab.
Figure 3
Step 4
After insertion the 8-32 screw should
protrude to a length of 1 inch
measured from the bottom of the
elevator.
Rudder Control Horn Installation
Step 1
Locate the pre-drilled rudder control
horn hole that is covered by ultracote
and remove the covering by xacto
knife or a solder.
Step 2
12

Use the Dubro heavy duty dual pull-
pull system Cat. No. 882. Insert the
8-32 threaded rod for the rudder
control horn.
Step 3
Take the screw out and apply a thin
layer of epoxy/alcohol inside the hole
to strengthen the inside walls.
Step 4
Proceed with final installation of
Dubro Cat. No 882. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
Aileron Horn Installation
Step 1
Locate the aileron control horn hole
and servo locations that are covered
by ultracote. Remove the covering
from bottom by xacto knife.
Step 2
Use the Du-bro Heavy Duty Control
Horn System, Cat. No. 866. However
the 2” 8-32 socket head cap screw
provided is not long enough for the
aileron control horn. Purchase
8-32X3 round Slotted/Phillips Zinc
Machine screw at Lowes or similar
supplier. We include those screws in
our optional Du-Bro package.
Step 3
Use epoxy and screw the machine
screw into the hole provided until it
reaches the top of the aileron. Cut off
the head of the screw leaving a
length of the control horn measured
to the bottom of the aileron as
follows:
For the inboard horn, 1 inch, for the
outboard horn 1-1/4 inches. After
you have installed the servos, you
are ready to hook up the linkage.
13

Section 4-Preparation and Installation of Hinges
Required Tools and Adhesive
• Xacto knife, #11 Blade
• Lithium grease/Petroleum Jelly
• Toothpicks
• Pacer hinge glue (PT-55)
The hinge slots are already cut in the balsa at all hinge locations on both the
fixed surfaces and the moveable surfaces. However, they are covered up with
the covering film so they may be a little difficult to see and locate. Look closely
and you will find the hinge slots. Run your finger along the edge where the
hinges are located. You should feel a little depression in the film at each hinge
slot under the film.
Number of slots and hinges per control surface are as follows:
Aileron 9
Elevator 4
Rudder 4
14

Step 1
Use a # 11 blade to open the flat
hinge slot.
The hinge slots will have to have a
larger opening cut out just on either
side, top and bottom, of the pivot
point on both surfaces. So you will
need to open the area in the fixed
and moveable surfaces of the
ailerons, elevators and rudder.
Step 2
Use a #11 blade and make a wedge
tapered opening to accept the
pinned hinge area of the hinge. See
Figure 5 & 6.
Figure 5
Figure 6
Step 3
Make a V- cut in the fixed and
control surface area along the slot
location of the flat hinge. This
additional V- slot will insure that the
hinge will insert far enough into the
hinge slot so it is in the proper
location and provide enough depth
for each hinge. The gap between the
flying surface and the control surface
needs to be at a minimum. However
we have to have enough of a gap so
full deflection is possible. Check
deflections before bonding hinges.
Step 4
Check the gap on each control
surface. The gap should be at
minimum and yet make sure you get
the maximum throw. This procedure
will take some time to do all of the
hinges but take your time and do a
nice job. As you do each hinge and
check out the proper depth and
shape of the V-slot necessary for
each hinge, the time involved to do
each subsequent hinge will lessen.
Before you glue the hinges in
place:
Dry fit the control surfaces to fixed
surfaces. Make sure everything is
lined up and full deflections are
possible.
Take some lithium grease or
Petroleum jelly and apply a very
small amount on both sides of the
hinge point on the flat hinges.
Quique used a round toothpick. See
Figure 7 This will help prevent any
glue in the pivot point.
15

Be very careful not to get any grease
etc. on the flat part of the hinges.
Also remember that you always glue
the hinges in to the fixed surfaces
first, let the glue harden before you
then glue in the control surfaces.
Remember to check for the correct
hinge gaps for rudder, elevators and
ailerons. You must have the correct
gap to insure the maximum control
deflection necessary for the best 3-D
aerobatics. For hinge attachment we
like to use Hinge Glue by Pacer.
You may use epoxy if you wish. If
you use epoxy, use an epoxy with a
curing time that will give you enough
time to work the hinges in place
before the epoxy hardens.
Figure 7
Step 5
Sealing the Control Surfaces
After you are done hinging the
ailerons and elevators, make sure
you seal the hinge line by using clear
ultracote or bright yellow ultracote for
best appearance. Unsealed control
surfaces may cause flutter like
aileron flutter, which may cause your
plane to crash, where sealed control
surfaces will give you better and
crisper response in flight.
For each aileron, cut 44 1/4”x1” of
bright yellow ultracote and seal the
hinge line from top using a straight
edge and trim iron.
For each half elevator, cut
14 1/4”x3/4” of bright yellow ultracote
and seal the hinge line from top
same way as you did your ailerons.
Following figures show what it would
look like if you use bright yellow
ultracote to seal the hinge line from
top.
Figure 8
Figure 9
16

Section 5-Wing Anti-Rotation Pins and Servo Installation
Required Tools and Adhesive
• 5-15 minute epoxy
• Ruler
• Coarse sandpaper
• Acetone/Alcohol swab
• Thin C/A
• Micro balloons
• (2) 24” servo extensions
• (2) 1.5” aluminum servo arms
• Long rod such as 48” Dubro
rod.
Step 1
Prepare the aluminum anti-rotation
pins by using coarse sandpaper and
rough up the end of the pin where it
will be inserted in the second rib in
the wing. Now clean the pins with
acetone or alcohol to remove any
possible grease or dirt.
Step 2
Install the anti-rotation pins using the
following dimensions. The front pin
should measure 10.5mm. Note: the
picture showing the measurement
with the ruler may not look like
exactly 10.5 however 10.5 mm is the
correct distance from the root rib to
the center hole for the keeper clip at
the end of the anti-rotation pin. Also
this ruler starts at zero, yours may
not start at zero. The rear pin should
measure 8 mm from the root rib to
the center of the hole. The front and
rear pin should have the hole in a
vertical position.
Figure 10
Figure 11
Step 3
Apply 5-minute epoxy in the second
wing rib holes. Lay the wing flat on
the table to insert the anti-rotation
pins. Now insert the pins to the
correct depth. Again, check the hole
17

in the end of the pins to make sure
the front and rear pins are vertical as
this is very important
Step 4.
Let the epoxy harden. Stand the
wing on its wing tip and run some
thin C/A around the root rib. Wipe
away any excess. Do this several
times which will help to seal the pin
to the hole in the root rib.
Step 5
After the C/A has hardened, make a
fillet of 15 minute epoxy and micro
balloons and apply on the inside of
the root rib. I used a small length of
3/16” wooden dowel to apply the
epoxy-micro balloon mix.
Figure 12
Figure 13
Step 6
You will find some ¼” I.D. O-rings
and washers with the wing anti-
rotation package of parts. Use thin
C/A and glue the O-ring to the
washer. After you have installed the
wings to the fuse you will use this O-
ring and washer to slide over the
anti-rotation pin before you put the
keeper clip in the hole in the anti-
rotation pin.
Figure 14
Step 7
Now install the aileron servos the
way that output shaft is towards the
leading edge of the wing.
18

Step 8
Plug a 24" servo extension onto the
outboard servo. Either tie the servo
leads together, using a commercially
available connector, or use unwaxed
dental floss to secure the extensions
to prevent them from coming
loose during flight.
Step 9
To run the servo extensions, use a
long rod and make a little hook at
one end of it. Pass it through the
wing panel and connect your servo
lead to the hook with masking tape
and pull it through.
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Step10
Use 3” extension for inboard servo
and install the servo.
Step 11
Use 1.5” aluminum servo arms.
Step 12
Measuring from hinge line vertically
to pivot point on the Dubro Control
Horn connector should be at 1.7”
inches for the proper amount of
aileron throw. Hook the servo arm to
the control horn using the provided
4/40 titanium rods.
Use provided ball links to complete
the installation.
Note that you don’t need more throw
than 45 degrees for Ailerons. Don’t
alter the set up to get more than 45
degree deflection.
19

Figure 18
Step 13
You need to use matchboxes for
best results.
Make sure that servos are not
fighting each other throughout the
travel. Follow matchbox instructions
for proper set up.
20
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