RCJOSEB PVCore User manual

THE PVCore 3D PRINTER
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INTRODUCTION:
This guide covers only the physical assembly of the PVCore 3D printer. It does not cover firmware setup, etc.
A few months ago, I attended a STEAM (science, technology, engineering, arts and math) fair where a makers group was
displaying two commercial grade 3D printers, a PolyPrinter and a Makerbot Replicator. The most common questions I heard
about 3D printing where:
How much does a 3D printer cost?
Is it simple to use?
Is it easy to maintain?
It was no surprise that people walked away or their attention/interest greatly diminished when the first question was
answered. The PolyPrinter starts at about $4000.00 U.S. and the Makerbot at about $3000.00 US.
I realized that the beginner 3D printer enthusiast does not need a commercial quality printer, especially in a classroom
environment where more can be learned by tinkering than using. Most low cost 3D printers on eBay are either very low quality
come without instructions or have to be heavily modified to work properly. All of these factors lead to either an unfinished 3D
printer or a big paper weight. That is when I decided to design a simple PLA only 3D printer for the beginner 3D printer
enthusiast.
The following are a few design concepts I had in mind and tried to adhere to:
Half inch PVC pipe and connectors for the frame.
oIt’s cheap and easy to cut.
oWhen designed correctly and at certain lengths, it’s sturdy.
oWide variety of connectors available.
3D printed parts for all other major components.
oMotor mounts.
oBearing mounts.
oHotend carriage.
oEtc.
Metric screws for attaching motors.
Non metric screws, washers, nuts, bolts, etc. are used everywhere else.
6mm smooth rods, bearings and GT2 belts for linear motion.
5/16 threaded rod for Z axis.
Open Source electronics and software.
PLA only with a non-heated, manually leveled print bed.
I could not have designed this printer without the assistance of my lord and savior, Jesus Christ, who always gives me good
ideas and allows my creative hands to do his good works...
Proverbs 2:6 For the LORD gives wisdom; from his mouth come knowledge and understanding.

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IT’S MY PROPERTY – DON’T STEAL IT!
I own the copyright to this guide. All of the text was written by me and all of the screenshots were taken by me so I own it all.
In the past I have been burnt by people posting my guides to other sites without my permission or just plain outright stealing
the content and putting their own header info. That’s right QueensHobby, I am talking to you.
I actively search for my guides and will politely ask for them to be removed but if I feel that I am getting burnt, I will remove the
guides completely from my blog in a heartbeat and then everyone will suffer. So let’s be nice here and just link the guides back
to my blog.
The guide is for personal use only by the end user to assist in building the PVCore.
The guide cannot be posted on any site other than my blog.
The guide can only be linked directly to my blog.
Do not claim ownership of the guide in whole or in part.
I must get full credit if the guide is linked.
The STL files for the custom 3D designed parts and modified parts can be found on my Thingiverse page and are being made
available for personal use only. They may not be printed and sold for profit. Any violation found will result in the STL files being
removed.

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TOOLS NEEDED:
This is not a complete list of tools that are needed but it’s a great start:
Hand/power tool to cut the PVC pipe to length.
JB Weld ClearWeld or other similar epoxy.
Hammer or rubber mallet.
Scrap cardboard.
Popsicle stick.
Phillips screwdriver
Pliers.
Super glue
Some type of polish for steel.
Waterproof/resistant high grit sandpaper.
Measuring tape or ruler.
Felt tip marker or pen.
1/8” drill bit.
Drill.
Paper towels.
5/16 wrench or socket.
3mm Hex wrench or Allen key.
Rags.
3 in 1 oil or silicone spray.
WD40.

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3D PRINTED PARTS:
The 3D printed parts are referenced throughout this build guide using letter codes.

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3D PRINTED PARTS:
The 3D printed parts are referenced throughout this build guide using letter codes.

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3D PRINTED PARTS:
The 3D printed parts are referenced throughout this build guide using letter codes.

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3D PRINTED PARTS:
The 3D printed parts are referenced throughout this build guide using letter codes.

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3D PRINTED PARTS:
The 3D printed parts are referenced throughout this build guide using letter codes.

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3D PRINTED PARTS:
The 3D printed parts are referenced throughout this build guide using letter codes.

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NOTES AND THINGS TO BE AWARE OF:
CUTTING PVC:
The frame requires that the parts be of the same length with straight edges. I did not have any issues using a compound miter
saw with a standard wood blade and some scrap lumber as a fence/stop. A miter box and handsaw will work as well.
EPOXING PVC:
I used JB Weld ClearWeld 5 minute epoxy because it was recommended for use on PVC and does not need any primer. I found
it easiest to apply a thin coat of epoxy to the inside oi the connector, instead of the outside of the pipe.
ORIENTATION OF THE PVC:
Decide how you want the pipe and connectors to appear, i.e. barcodes facing inwards and try to orient all of the same way
before epoxying. If you are going to paint the frame, do so only after it is assembled and the epoxy has completely cured.
LINEAR BEARINGS:
The PVCore can be assembled using either metal 6mm linear bearings (LM6UU-M) or 3D printed 6mm linear bearings (LM6UU-
3D). There are some pros and cons to each:
BEARING TYPE
PRO
CON
Metal
Lasts longer than plastic
Can bind due to poor quality
If good quality, will be very smooth
Can be noisy
Plastic
Quiet
Lasts less than metal
Very smooth
Can warp and bind
I ran into binding issues with both types of bearings but was able to resolve them by polishing the smooth rods and reducing
any burrs or scratches. The 3D printed bearings worked very well for the Z axis, while the metal ones worked well for the X and
Y so I used a combination of both..
SMOOTH RODS:
Unless you can get the specific length, smooth rods (S6MM) will need to be cut to length.
Smooth rods can be cut using cutting oil and either a Dremel tool or a hack saw.
Regardless of the source, smooth rods should be polished and lubricated to prevent binding
Rods can be polished using a metal polishing compound, WD40 and waterproof/resistant high grit sandpaper.
12” THREADED ROD VS 36” THREADED ROD:
The Lowes that I went to had thread rods in 6”, 12” and 36” lengths. I chose to buy the 12” lengths because they felt stiffer
than the 36” lengths when I compared them using just the first 12” of the 36” piece. Buying two 12” lengths vs one 36” length
did not cost much more and I did not have to cut them to size.

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FRAME - PARTS:
The frame is assembled with the following parts:
02 x 14” PVC pipe for fronts (FF).
14 x 5.25” PVC pipe for verticals (FV).
10 x 6.625” PVC pipe for side horizontals (FSH).
06 x 6.5” PVC pipe for back horizontals (FBH).
01 x cross shaped slip connector (FC).
08 x ninety degree side outlet slip elbows (FE).
12 x T slip connectors (FT).
02 x 3D printed parts (Z1).
JB Weld ClearWeld 5 minute epoxy or similar epoxy (not shown).

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –LOWER BACK WALL:
Orient the PVC pipes and connectors as shown.
Slide the 3D printed parts (Z1) onto the bottom pipes (FBH) with the holes facing front to back.
Mix a small amount of epoxy, just enough to glue all of the pieces together.
Apply a small amount of epoxy to the inside of each connector.
Insert the pipes (FBH) all the way into the connectors (FE) and (FT) until they stop.
Use a hammer or mallet to drive the pipes (FBH) further in if needed.
Lay the assembly down flat and move the connectors (FE) and (FT) front to back so there is no wobble.
Ensure that the assembly is level and even all the way around.
Remove any excess epoxy that may have oozed out.
Put aside the completed assembly and let the epoxy set.

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –UPPER BACK WALL:
Orient the PVC pipes and connectors as shown.
Mix a small amount of epoxy, just enough to glue all of the pieces together.
Apply a small amount of epoxy to the inside of each connector.
Insert the pipes (FBH) all the way into the connectors (FE) and (FT) until they stop.
Use a hammer or mallet to drive the pipes (FBH) further in if needed.
Lay the assembly down flat and move the connectors (FE) and (FT) front to back so there is no wobble.
Ensure that the assembly is level and even all the way around.
Remove any excess epoxy that may have oozed out.
Put aside the completed assembly and let the epoxy set.

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –LOWER BEARING MOUNT HOLES:
The rear bearing mounts (B1) are screwed into the frame at the upper rear elbows (FE). Once the frame is assembled, there is
not enough space to drill the lower bearing mount holes, so it’s easier to do it now. Please note that you will not be drilling
holes all the way through the pipe (FBH) and connector (FE) to the other side. Each side is drilled separately to ensure the holes
line up with each other. The red arrow points to a hole that will be drilled later when a vertical pipe (FV) is attached to the
elbow (FE).
Orient the upper back wall as shown.
Place the 3D printed bearing mounts (B1) underneath and on top of the right elbow (FE) as shown.
Use a 1/8” drill bit and the mounts (B1) as a guide to drill the lower holes as shown by the yellow arrows.
Repeat the above steps for the left side elbow (FE).

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –UPPER BEARING MOUNT HOLES:
The red arrow points to a hole that will be drilled later when a vertical pipe (FV) is attached to the elbow (FE).
Orient the upper back wall as shown.
Place a 3D printed bearing mount (B1) on top of the right elbow (FE) as shown.
Use a 1/8” drill bit and the mount (B1) as a guide to drill the lower holes as shown by the yellow arrows.
Repeat the above steps for the left side elbow (FE).

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –MIDDLE BACK WALL:
Orient the PVC pipes and connectors as shown.
Mix a small amount of epoxy, just enough to glue all of the pieces together.
Apply a small amount of epoxy to the inside of each connector.
Insert the pipes (FBH) all the way into the connectors (FC) and (FT) until they stop.
Use a hammer or mallet to drive the pipes (FBH) further in if needed.
Lay the assembly down flat and move the connectors (FC) and (FT) front to back so there is no wobble.
Ensure that the assembly is level and even all the way around.
Remove any excess epoxy that may have oozed out.
Put aside the completed assembly and let the epoxy set.

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –COMPLETE BACK WALL:
Orient the assembled wall sections (lower, middle, upper) and pipes (FV) as shown.
Mix a small amount of epoxy, just enough to glue all of the pieces together.
Apply a small amount of epoxy to the inside of each connector.
Insert the pipes (FV) all the way into the wall section connectors (FE) and (FT) until they stop.
Use a hammer or mallet to drive the pipes (FV) further in if needed.
Ensure that the assembly is level and even all the way around.
Remove any excess epoxy that may have oozed out.
Put aside the completed assembly and let the epoxy set.

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –REAR SIDE WALLS:
Orient the assembled wall sections (lower, middle, upper) and pipes (FSH) as shown.
Mix a small amount of epoxy, just enough to glue all of the pieces together.
Apply a small amount of epoxy to the inside of each connector.
Insert the pipes (FSH) all the way into the elbows (FE) until they stop.
Use a hammer or mallet to drive the pipes (FSH) further in if needed.
Remove any excess epoxy that may have oozed out.
Put aside the completed assembly and let the epoxy set.

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FRAME ASSEMBLY –LAST BEARING MOUNT HOLE:
Place a 3D printed bearing mount (B1) underneath the top right elbow (FE) as shown.
Use a 1/8” drill bit and the mount (B1) as a guide to drill the lower hole as shown by the red arrow.
Repeat the above steps for the top side of the elbow (FE).
Repeat the above steps for the left elbow (FE).
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