REDROTOR RC STRIDER 250 User manual

STRIDER 250

Center Plate with onboard RROSD engine (x1)
Bottom Plate (x1)
Top Plate (x1)
Arms (x4)
CCD Board Camera mount (x1)
Aluminum M3 x 6mm (x10)
Aluminum M3 x 8mm (x4)
Aluminum M3 x 10mm (x4)
Aluminum M3 x 16mm (x10)
Nylon M3 x 3mm Spacer (x14)
Nylon M3 x 12mm (x4)
Nylon M3 hex nut (x4)
Nylon 35mm F/F Standoff (x10)
Nylon 10mm M/F Standoff (x4)
Nylon M3 washer (x4)
Rubber Soft Bobbin (x3)
Captive nut (x8)
M3 Nylon locking nut (x4)
If you find anything missing please contact your retailer or email [e-mail] immediately.
M3 Allen/hex key/driver *size #2
M3 Hex socket driver
Soldering Iron with a thick tip
60/40 Rosin core solder or varying thickness
Shrink Tubing of various diameters
(Optional but recommended) Zip ties of varying sizes
(Optional but recommended) Battery Strap (Scorpion or other branded Straps)
(Optional but recommended) Wire Mesh Braid or Paracord
(Optional but recommended) Solder Flux
(Optional but recommended) Servo Crimping Tool
(Optional but recommended) Male Servo Crimp ends 2.54mm

! - 4S+1.3Ghz warning –VTX and Camera are both filtered. Only camera power is regulated at (12V or 5V).
Power to the VTX pins is not regulated! The flight battery voltage will be applied. Most 5.8 Ghz video
transmitters have a built in regulator with a wide range to easily accept 3S –4S standard. Most 1.3 Ghz
video transmitters do not have built in regulators and will need a 12V mini regulator in place on the video
out pins if using a 4S flight pack. A product like this can be wired in before the VTX power connections.
! –Solder Bridge Selection - There are two solder bridges on the Strider RROSD. One for battery regulator
choice (3s or 4s) and one for camera regulated voltage (12v or 5v). Each bridge has 3 pads. Do not bridge all
3 pads at once, which could damage the RROSD if powered up! The Strider will be pre-bridged for you. To
switch to the other choice, remove the solder bridge between two pads, and put in a new solder bridge
between the middle and opposite pad.
! - Captive nut install -The captive nuts require significant force to install without a press. One method is to
carefully seat them with a set of pliers. Mask surrounding areas of the PDB appropriately to protect it. Once
the captive nuts are partially seated, lay the board on a solid surface that won’t mar the underside and is
completely flat. Carefully tap the captive nuts in with a hammer till the lip of the nut seats against the top of
the board. Be aware of damaging surrounding components during this step.
! –Power/Ground wire soldering –Caution must be taken when soldering wires to the power and ground
pads on the PDB. There are many sensitive components on the RROSD board that a hot soldering iron can
ruin or de-solder if carelessly placed.

Below is a list of recommended gear to get you airborne.
Flight Controller (x1)
oCC3D
oNaze32
oFlip
10A minimum speed controllers (x4)
oHobby King Blue Series 12A
oBheli Red Series 12A
oKISS ESC 18A
Mini multi-rotor (x4)
oDYS 1806 2300kv
oCobra 2204 1960kv (4S recommended)
oCobra 2204 2300kv
oSunnysky x2204 2300kv
oTurnigy Multi-star 2204 2300kv
18-14 AWG cable (preferably silicon coated) (10”)
Battery connector (Deans, T-plug, XT60, etc. to match your battery style)
3S or 4S LiPo Batteries(1300-2200 mAh)
5”-6” propellers
oGemfan 5030
oGemfan 5040
oHQ Carbon Composite 5045
oHQ Carbon Composite 6030
oHQ Carbon Composite 6045
1 pin Female to Female Standard Servo Cable (x2) or 3 pin F/F
Radio Receiver
oFrsky DR4-ii (2.4Ghz recommended)
oEzUHF (long range)
oSpektrum 2.4Ghz
Radio
oFrsky Taranis
oTurnigy 9XR
oSpektrum

Video Transmitter
(Optional but recommended) SMA Pigtail lead (4” – 6”)
Video Antenna
oImmersion RC Skew planer Set (5.8)
FPV Camera
oHS1177
oPZ0420
oNerdCam (3D)
(Optional but recommended) HD Action Camera
oMobius
oDiminika
oGoPro Hero
oGoPro Clone
Monitor or FPV Goggles
Receiver or FPV Goggles with built in Video Receiver

1. First check to see if the default solder bridges on CAM_PWR and battery voltage bridge selections are correct.
Each selection consist of 3 silver pads. The middle pad will already be connected to one of the pads on either
side with a solder blob when you receive your board.
2. To change, simply remove the existing solder bridge with a solder wick. Use a very high temperature (400 C)
and thin tip being careful of nearby components. Apply solder to your iron and press tip to the correct pad
allowing solder to flow on to the middle pad and bridge. Verify that all 3 pads are not bridged or you risk
destroying the RROSD!!! VTX and CAM connections are both filtered. CAM voltage is strictly regulated but VTX
receives unregulated power from battery.
*Shown here with 4s bridged and 12V bridged.

1. Press Captive Nuts (x4) carefully into PDB with electronics facing upward.
* See precautions and warnings section above.

2. Lay Nylon M3 x 12mm (x4) flat and insert through bottom plate. Top with Nylon M3 x 3mm Spacer (x4)

3. Lay center plate with electronics facing upward on top of bottom plate. Hand tighten Nylon 10mm M/F
Standoff (x4) securely onto screws.

4. Slide a nylon spacer in between plates and insert a 16mm Aluminum screw through hole. Hand tighten
35mm Nylon standoff to it. Repeat 10x until all edges are complete.

5. Slide Arm in between plates taking note of bolt pattern so your motor wiring faces inward. Insert Aluminum
M3 x 10mm through slot in plates/arm. Tighten M3 Nylon locking nut so that the arm can still move loosely.
Repeat 4x until all arms are attached.

6. Flip the Strider over and move arm into position so the notch at the end is aligned with the 5” or 6” hole in
the bottom of the center plate. Put a M3 washer on Aluminum M3 x 8mm and insert as shown from the
bottom of the frame. Screw loosely into captive nut. Push arm inward against screw and angle arm forward
so it sits as far forward as possible in the kidney shaped slot. Tighten Screw fully. Tighten nylon locknut
until arm can only be moved with hard force. Repeat 4x until all 4 arms are assembled.*Shown below in 5”
configuration. For 6” use the outer holes.

1. Mount motors to arms, there are both 16mm x 19mm M3 slots and 12mm x 16mm M2 slots. You may have to
flip the arm over if your motor wires are facing the wrong direction.
2. Install ESCs (3m heavy duty mounting tape, also there are zip tie slots on the edge of frame)

3. Solder ESCs to RROSD
4. Solder motors to ESCs (install braid optional)
5. Check motor direction and swap a wires if it’s incorrectly spinning.
6. Solder battery cable to designated pads between ESC pads (install braid optional)

7. Connection to CAM and VTX (see warning section above if using 4s and 1.3Ghz)

8. Connection from Receiver to Flight Controller (show using Frsky passing cppm)

9. 3-position switch & RSSI signal connection to RROSD
10. Mount Flight Controller with Nylon Hex nuts. Connect Motor Signals from ESC to flight controller. (Only one
Power and Ground wire is required) A servo crimper and 2.54mm jumper pins can be used to shorten cabling.

The below CLI commands are recommended when using a Naze32 FC:
feature ppm (necessary when using a PPM compatible receiver such as DR4-ii)
feature motor_stop
map taer1234 (channel settings for Throttle/Aileron/Elevator/Rudder)
setalign_board_yaw=270 (Board orientation as shown in this build)
set gimbal_flags=4 (make Aux signal available on PWM output channels)
Download the Firmware Upgrade Utility software from http://redrotorrc.com/download/RRLoader-
1.0.zip
Unzip and run the installer (RRLoader.msi)
Connect the USB-to-Serial dongle (RR-PRGM) to a PC running Win XP/7/8 and make note of the installed
COM #
You can also go Device Manager to find out the COM number

Connect the USB dongle to RROSD Expansion port with a 3-pin cable as shown
Run “RRLoader.exe”(icon created on your desktop)
Choose the correct COM number, power off Strider and click “Load” and immediately connect power to
Strider within 2 seconds and Firmware loading should begin
Remove power and disconnect programmer from RROSD when firmware loading is finished