RS RS100 Quick start guide

Sail it. Live it. Love it.
RIGGING GUIDE

CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION
2. COMMISSIONING
2.1 Preparation
2.2 Rigging the Mast
2.3 Stepping the Mast
2.4 Rigging the Boom
2.5 Hoisting the Mainsail
2.6 Rigging the Gennaker
2.7 Attaching sail numbers
2.8 Completion
3. SAILING HINTS
3.1 Tacking
3.2 Gybing (mainsail only)
3.3 Sailing With the Assymetric Spinnaker
4. TUNING GUIDE
5. MAINTENANCE
5.1 Boat care
5.2 Foil care
5.3 Spar care, and access to bowsprit.
5.4 Sail care
6. WARRANTY
7. APPENDIX
7.1 Useful Websites and Recommended Reading
7.2 Three Essential Knots
All terms highlighted in blue throughout the Manual can be found in the Glossary of Terms
Warnings, Top Tips, and Important Information are displayed in a yellow box.

1. INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS100, and thank you for choosing an
RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and
racing in this truly excellent design. The RS100 is an exciting boat to sail and offers
fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the
maximum enjoyment from your RS100, in a safe manner. It contains details of the
craft, the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its safe
operation and maintenance. Please read this manual carefully and be sure that you
understand its contents before using your RS100.
This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your first
boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your
own safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before
assuming command of the craft. If you are unsure, your RS Dealer, or your National
sailing federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be able to
advise you of a local sailing school, or a competent instructor.
For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:
RS Sailing
Premier Way, Abbey Park
Romsey
Hants
SO51 9DQ
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
For details of your local RS Dealer, please visit www.RSsailing.com
Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if you
sell the boat.

2.COMMISSIONING
2.1 Preparation
Your RS100 comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat
sailing. In order to commission it, you will need the following tools:
•Pliers, or a shackle key
•Pozi-drive screwdriver
•PVC Electrician’s Tape
Should your RS100 require roping out, you will also need a 3mm splicing fid,
and the supplementary instructions. If it has already been roped out and
prepared, it is still wise to check knots and lashings, and tighten shackles yourself
prior to commissioning. This is especially important when the boat is new, as
travelling can loosen seemingly tight fittings and knots. It is also important to check
such items regularly prior to sailing.
You will also need to tie some particular knots, such as a bowline or a figure-of-eight
during regular rigging. If you are unfamiliar with the knot, please see Appendix 9.3
Three Essential Knots.
DO NOT use a knife or other sharp object to cut through packaging containing parts –
you may damage the contents!

2.2 Rigging the Mast
Your RS 100 mast consists of 3 component sections: The short base section is used
only in conjunction with the 10.2m sail, and if you are using this sail, then insert this
short base section into the lower main mast. The mast base plug is already supplied
attached to this base section. However, if you are using the 8.4m sail you will need
to extract the mast base plug and plug it into the base of the lower main mast.
Whichever sail you use it is wise to tape the base plug onto the mast – so that it
remains in place when the mast is taken out of the boat.
8.4m sailors should stow the short base section safely – whilst you do not
need to use it, you will need it for resale of the boat or of course if you wish to
use the 10.2m sail
Now slide the 2 main mast sections
together, taking care to push them fully
together, which should ensure the mast
track sections are properly aligned. The
photo on the left shows short mast base
section used with the 10.2m sail with the
heel plug. Remember to tape the heel plug
in place.

Rigging the main halyard:
The main halyard should be threaded around the top sheave, inside the mast briefly
and out through the slot on the front of the mast, above the cleat – both sited close to
the top of the mast.
Tie an overhand knot in the end of the halyard that will tie to the sail (aft of the mast),
and tape it to the mast about 20cm above the relevant gooseneck hole (10.2m –
lower hole / 8.4m - upper hole). This will enable you to locate the Inglefield clip
correctly as follows: slide the spare clip onto the fwd section of the halyard, and slide
it all the way up to the top of the mast, and then tie an overhand knot to locate it
there.
Thus as you hoist the sail and the knot (currently taped to the mast 20cm above the
gooseneck), ends up at the top of the mast with the sail, your Inglefield clip will end
up lower down, just above the gooseneck, ready to be clipped to its partner attached
to shockcord and emerging from the port side of the mast gate organiser. That is
how your main halyard will be retained when you are sailing.

Rigging the shrouds, spreaders and spinnaker hoist block:
The shrouds should be shackled to the lower mast eye (10.2m), or the middle mast
eye (8.4m) and the spinnaker hoist block shackled to the middle mast eye (10.2m)
or the upper mast eye (8.4m), as in the photo below. The top ends of the shrouds to
be shackled to the mast are marked with black tape around the terminals. Ensure
these are correct otherwise it will be impossible to rig correctly.
Now slide the spreaders onto the spigots on the rotating bracket, blunt edge facing
forwards, and insert the 4 locating pins, and split rings to secure. A key tip here is
to tie a short piece of 2mm shockcord – about 200mm long - to the inner split
rings here, forming a captive loop through which the kite halliard is lead going
down the mast on the hoist – this stops it ever blowing out and getting caught
around a spreader end. See photo below. Now tape up these pins and rings to
protect the spinnaker in use.

Using the pozidrive screwdriver loosen the screws in the end of the spreaders to
enable the shrouds to be attached. Double check the shrouds are the right way up
by pulling a shroud tight down to the spreaders (whilst the spreaders are rotated
centrally on the mast) and checking the spreaders can be clamped between the pair
of ferrules. Now insert the shrouds into the aft setting on the spreader ends, siting
between the relevant ferrule pair (upper pair 10.2m, and lower pair 8.4m). Check
with the photo below: Now tighten the screws again and finally check the shrouds
are not twisted from shackle to spreaders. They should not be too slack.

Take the gennaker halyard from where it exits on top of the mast gate organiser and
thread it through the hoist block that is above the point where the shrouds attach to
the mast. Run the gennaker halyard back down to the base of the mast, passing
through the little shockcord retaining loop at the spreaders. (if fitted).
The mast is now ready to be stepped.

2.3 Stepping the Mast
Before you step the mast, check that the main halyard and gennaker halyard ends
are near the base of the mast. Also, check that the bottom of the mast well is free
from any debris and sand that will cause premature wear of the mast well. Likewise
ensure the mast base plug is free from sand and grit, and taped in place.
The RS100 mast only requires one person to step it. However, if you are stepping it
for the first time, or if it is windy, it would be wise to have another person with you in
case of any difficulty.
1. Stand the mast upright beside the boat. Remember to keep the base plug
clean
2. Lift the mast up and pass the base of the mast through the hole in the mast
gate organiser.
3. Pass the mast down, until it reaches the bottom of the mast well. Take care to
avoid all lines and shockcord as it passes the gennaker sock, and ensure the
recess in the base plug sits securely over the steel peg at the bottom of the
mast well. The mast will now stand up on its own.
4. Wind the mast gate to the furthest aft position. This will ease the pinning of
the shrouds – usually around hole 2 or 3 – but as far down as you can easily
get without help. Now as you wind the mast gate back to a central position,
you will find the shrouds are gently tensioned.
HINT
A central position for the mast gate is a good starting point, but further aft (more
mast rake) helps in the breeze and further forward (less mast rake or more upright)
helps in the light winds. It is worth remembering that more mast rake will mean
less room under the boom when tacking and gybing!
Useful tip:
Your mast will come with a band of very light stainless steel or some high-
resistance ware tape at deck level – this is advisable to stop ware on the mast at
the deck collar. The tape is easily replaceable and also helps to reduce any “slop”
in the mast gate. Useful to make sure you have a couple of lengths in the toolbox!!