RS Vareo Quick start guide

Sail it. Live it. Love it.
RIGGING GUIDE

CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION
2. COMMISSIONING
2.1 Preparation
2.2 Rigging the Mast
2.3 Stepping the Mast
2.4 Rigging the Boom
2.5 Hoisting the Mainsail
2.6 Rigging the Gennaker
2.7 Completion
3. SAILING HINTS
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Tacking
3.3 Gybing (mainsail only)
3.4 Sailing With the Assymetric Spinnaker
4. MAINTENANCE
4.1 Boat Care
4.2 Foil Care
4.3 Spar Care
4.4 Sail Care
5. WARRANTY
6. GLOSSARY OF TERMS
7. APPENDIX
7.1 Useful Websites and Recommended Reading
7.2 RS Vareo Gennaker Pole System
7.3 Three Essential Knots
All terms highlighted in blue throughout the Manual can be found in the Glossary of Terms
Warnings, Top Tips, and Important Information are displayed in a yellow box.

1. INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS Vareo, and thank you for choosing
an RS product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and
racing in this truly excellent design. The RS Vareo is an exciting boat to sail and
offers fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the
maximum enjoyment from your RS Vareo, in a safe manner. It contains details of the
craft, the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its safe
operation and maintenance. Please read this manual carefully and be sure that you
understand its contents before using your RS Vareo.
This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your first
boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your
own safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before
assuming command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS Dealer, or your
national sailing federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be
able to advise you of a local sailing school, or a competent instructor.
For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:
LDC Racing Sailboats
Trafalgar Close
Chandlers Ford
Eastleigh
Hampshire SO53 4BW
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
For details of your local RS Dealer, please visit www.RSsailing.com
Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if you sell
the boat.

2 COMMISSIONING
2.1 Preparation
Your RS Vareo comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat
sailing. In order to commission it, you will need the following tools:
•Pliers, or a shackle key
•PVC Electrician’s Tape
You may require other tools later, should you wish to make any setting or tuning
adjustments to the boat or the rig. You will also need to tie some particular knots,
such as a bowline or a figure-of-eight. If you are unfamiliar with the knot, please see
Appendix 9.3 Three Essential Knots.
Whilst your RS Vareo has been carefully prepared, it is important that new owners
should check that shackles and knots are tight. This is especially important when the
boat is new, as travelling can loosen seemingly tight fittings and knots. It is also
important to check such items regularly prior to sailing.
2.2 Rigging the Mast
Your RS Vareo mast will come almost ready to step with:
•The main halyard threaded.
•The shrouds fitted.
Therefore, all that is required is to thread the gennaker halyard (Competition Rig).
Take the gennaker halyard from where it exits on top
of the mast bridge and thread it through the swivel
block that is at the point where the shrouds attach to
the mast. Run the gennaker halyard back down to the
base of the mast.
DO NOT use a knife or other sharp object to cut through packaging containing parts –
you may damage the contents!
TOP TIP
As with all boats, it is a good idea to tape up any shackles and sharp objects that may rip the
gennaker.
!

2.3 Stepping the Mast
Before you step the mast, check that the main halyard and gennaker halyard ends
are at the base of the mast and that the shrouds are securely attached and not
twisted (especially where they are attached to the mast). Also, check that the bottom
of the mast well is free from any debris and stand that will cause premature wear of
the mast well.
The RS Vareo mast only requires one person to step it. However, if you are stepping
it for the first time, or if it is windy, it would be wise to have another person with you
in case of any difficulty.
1. Stand the mast upright beside the boat.
2. Lift the mast up and pass the base of the mast through the hole in the mast
bridge.
3. Align the kicker attachment eye near the base of the mast up with the cut out
at the front of the mast bridge hole.
4. Pass the mast down, until it reaches the bottom of the mast well. Now the
mast will stand up by itself.
5. Clip the shrouds on to the u-bolts on the gunwhales.
2.4 Rigging the Boom
First, shackle the kicker cascade to the rope strop on the forward-most eye on the
boom, and attach the lower end to the short rope strop, supplied in the rope kit. This
needs to be passed around the mast and through the metal eye on the front.
To thread the mainsheet:
1. Lead the mainsheet through the centre jammer cleat and ratchet block
(making sure that the rope is threaded through the ratchet block the correct
way, so that it ‘grips’ the rope when the sheet pulls out and runs freely when
you pull the sheet in).
HINT
To make the shrouds easier to clip on, pull on the main halyard to bend the mast.

2. Lead the mainsheet through the block in the middle of the boom.
3. Thread the mainsheet into the boom through the forward slot on the
underside, and back out of the boom through the aft slot on the underside.
4. Lead the mainsheet through the block at the aft end of the boom, and down
through the top block on the mainsheet bridle across the stern of the boat.
5. Finally, pass the end of the mainsheet through the lacing eye at the end of the
boom and secure with a stopper knot.
The boom will then fit onto the gooseneck. Simply line the pin on the gooseneck up
with the hole in the forward end of the boom and push the boom on. It may be a tight
fit at first but the boom must be pushed all the way flush with the welded washer on
the gooseneck.
2.5 Hoisting the Mainsail
To hoist the mainsail:
1. Unroll the mainsail and tie the clew to the boom using the clew strop rope tied
around the boom.
2. Feed the outhaul through the clew of the mainsail and tie it back onto the
bullseye at the end of the boom.
3. Tie the main halyard to the head of the mainsail, using a bowline.
4. Hoist the mainsail by pulling on the end of the main halyard that runs down
the front face of the mast.
5. When the mainsail is hoisted to the top of the mast, cleat the main halyard in
the cleat located on the front face of the mast at the top.
6. Clip the Inglefield Clip on the tail of the main halyard to the Inglefield Clip
attached to the piece of shockcord on the deck near the base of the mast.
This will hold the tail of the main halyard tight and stop it flapping around.
7. Finally coil up the tail of the main halyard and stow it in the small pocket sewn
onto the gennaker chute.
TOP TIP
Only hoist the mainsail when you are ready to go afloat, as this will prolong the life of your
sail and prevent any possible damage occurring while you are away from your boat.

2.6 Rigging the Gennaker
To rig the gennaker:
1. Take the tack line that emerges from the end of the bowsprit, and tie it to the
tack of the gennaker.
2. Tie the end of the gennaker halyard that runs from the top of the mast to the
head of the sail.
3. Take the tail end of the gennaker halyard that runs through the gennaker
chute to the forward end, and pass it:
oThrough the first eyelet that is attached to the lower patch in the middle
of the gennaker
oThen through the middle eyelet that is sewn onto the middle patch of
the gennaker
oFinally tie the rope off to the loop of webbing on the top patch of the
gennaker
4. Find the middle of the gennaker sheet by folding it in half.
5. Pass the middle of the gennaker sheet through the metal eye in the clew of
the gennaker.
6. Pass the rest of the gennaker sheet through the loop and pull tight.
7. Thread the gennaker sheet through the blocks on the side decks and tie the
two ends together.
8. Using the gennaker downhaul, pull the gennaker down into the chute.
HINT
It may be useful to tie the gennaker sheets together behind the mainsheet jammer base. This
ensures that they are always within easy reach of the helm. If you are sailing with a crew, tie
the gennaker sheet ends together forward of the mainsheet jammer, within easy reach of the
crew.
TOP TIP
Although it may be tempting to leave the gennaker in the chute, it is better if it is left to dry
and folded properly if stored for long periods of time.

2.7 Completion
Rudder
The rudderstock simply drops on to the pintle and gudgeon on the transom. Ensure
that the rudder-retaining clip has located properly; it will ‘click’ in place. Check that
the rudder is fitted correctly by simply lifting the rudder to see if it lifts off. Hold the
rudder in the up position and tighten the rudder bolt to hold the rudder in position.
The rudder may be stiff at first; this will ease up with use while still maintaining a
positive, non-sloppy feel. When you have launched the boat, loosen the rudder bolt
and pull the rudder down a fraction using the rudder downhaul line. Sail off into
deeper water. You will not be able to sail the boat hard as this will damage the
rudder. When you are in deep enough water, pull hard on the rudder downhaul line
and cleat it. Tighten the rudder bolt to take any play out. As things start to wear in,
you will not have to ease off the rudder bolt.
Daggerboard
The daggerboard simply slides into the daggerboard case. Take care not to damage
the tip of the daggerboard by hitting the bottom of the case. When the daggerboard
has been lowered fully in deep water, clip the daggerboard retaining elastic onto the
rope handle, this will prevent the daggerboard rising up or being lost whilst sailing or
in the event of a capsize or inversion.

3.SAILING HINTS
3.1 Introduction
The RS Vareo is a new breed of single-handed dinghy with an asymmetric gennaker
– it will feel different to sail compared to many other boats. It will be a challenge to
learn to sail the boat to its full potential, let alone handling the asymmetric gennaker.
Therefore, you will find it a lot more enjoyable if your first few sails are in a moderate
breeze to enable you to concentrate on sailing the boat and not just trying to survive.
Most importantly, it will take you time to get used to the boat, as with any new boat.
So, take your time and just enjoy your exciting new boat!
3.2 Tacking
Tacking the RS Vareo is much the same as any single-handed dinghy. Some tips to
bear in mind are:
•Make sure that the boat is level and sailing as fast as possible before initiating
the tack.
•Be prepared to ease the mainsheet enough as the boat comes onto the new
tack so that the boat does not heel or is blown head to wind.
3.3 Gybing (mainsail only)
Always gybe with the boat sailing as fast as possible. In breezy conditions the
helmsman should steer back into the gybe as the boom comes across, so that the
boat is travelling straight downwind as the mainsail fills with wind on the new side.
3.4 Sailing with the Asymmetric Gennaker
Sailing with an asymmetric gennaker is where all similarity to existing single handers
ends, and where the real fun begins! Don’t be too hasty to get the kite up – it makes
sense to have familiarised yourself with the boat and the angles of sailing downwind

when hoisting or dropping the kite. For the first trial, the wind should be no more than
10-12 knots.
Hoisting the Gennaker
To hoist the gennaker, bear off onto a broad reach and ensure that there is plenty of
room to leeward. Ease the mainsheet right out, so that the boom is nearly touching
the shroud, and ensure that the kicker is eased as usual for downwind sailing. In
most conditions, you should be able to stand up in the boat and steer with the tiller
between your legs. Pull on the gennaker halyard to hoist the gennaker as quickly as
possible. Once the gennaker is all the way up, sit back down on the windward side
deck, pick up the gennaker sheet and pull tension on so that the wind fills the
gennaker. Head up slightly to gain speed. You will probably need to grip the
gennaker sheet in your tiller hand while you pull the mainsheet back in to the new
point of sailing. For those of you familiar with asymmetric sailing, you will remember
how important it is to ease the kite as far as possible, so that the luff is constantly on
the verge of curling. An over-sheeted kite is such a killer to speed. Conversely,
nothing will drop you in the drink faster than a collapsing kite – so forget the mainsail
and stay sharply focused on the luff of the kite!
Gybing
To gybe the gennaker, bear off while continually easing the gennaker. Put the
gennaker sheet in your tiller hand and reach in to uncleat the mainsheet. The quicker
you do this the better, as the boat will have slowed down and the mainsheet will
have loaded up – you’ll get to know this feeling and react to it faster each time! While
sailing on a broad reach, pick up the windward gennaker sheet with your front hand
and pull it in. This ensures that you are able to initiate the gybe as you bear off and
while the gennaker is slightly hooked to windward at the clew. The gennaker should
still be filling normally and helping to speed the boat into the gybe. As you initiate the
gybe, step across the boat, pulling the new gennaker sheet in as far as you can to
ensure that some wind remains in the gennaker throughout the manoeuvre, and
avoiding a collapsing gennaker. Once you are on the new gybe, pull tension on the
gennaker sheet, head up slightly, and pull in the mainsheet.

Dropping the Gennaker
To drop the gennaker, bear off and ease the mainsheet exactly as you would when
hoisting the gennaker. Stand up and steer with the tiller between your legs. Pick up
the gennaker downhaul and pull in the slack. Release the gennaker halyard from the
cleat and pull the gennaker down as fast as you can. Tidy the gennaker sheets.

4 MAINTENANCE
4.1 Boat Care
The RS Vareo is made using a GRP and coremat laminate. This is stiff and light, but
will dent if subjected to point loading. The boat should be supported ashore on a
recognised RS trolley and care must be taken when launching and recovering to
avoid damage to the transom. When dealing with a marine environment, equipment
gets wet, which in itself is not a problem. The problem starts when moisture is
trapped for any length of time. The key, therefore, is to store the boat properly
ashore. Water absorption could cause blistering and a raised fibre pattern.
Keep your dinghy drained and well ventilated
•Ensure that the boat is stored with bow raised to allow any excess water to
drain away.
•If leaving the under cover on the boat, ensure that the transom is open for
drainage and that there is a hole below the daggerboard slot to allow water to
drain.
Wash with fresh water
Fresh water evaporates far more quickly than salt water; so if your dinghy has been
sailed in salt water wash it off thoroughly. The fittings will also work better if regularly
washed.
Hull damage falls into three categories:
•SERIOUS – large hole, split, crack or worse. Don’t be too distressed! Get the
remnants back to RS Racing – most problems can be repaired.
•MEDIUM – small hole or split, gel crazing. If this occurs during an event,
sailing can often be continued as long as leaking can be prevented by drying
the area and applying strong adhesive tape. CAUTION – if the damage is
close to a heavily loaded point then a close examination should be made to
ensure joints and laminate are fit for the prevailing conditions. Get the
damage professionally repaired as soon as possible.

•SMALL – chips, scratching. This type of damage is not boat threatening, but
polyester resin will absorb water over time and therefore the damaged area
should be covered with a waterproof tape until the damage is fixed. The
owner can repair this type of damage using the correct RS gel coat.
As with any modern sailing dinghy, the loads on blocks and ropes can be quite large.
As part of your rigging and de-rigging each day you should check over every part of
the boat for worn blocks and rope, twisted or bent shackle pins, and any other highly
loaded parts.
4.3 Foil Care
The foils are manufactured from anodised aluminium extrusions, with injection
moulded glass reinforced nylon ends. Lower mouldings are bonded in with
polyurethane adhesive sealant. Upper mouldings are riveted or screwed in.
Lower mouldings are sealed, however over time there may be some water ingress. If
this occurs the foils should be inverted to allow water to drain through the holes in
the top moulding.
Foils contain closed cell foam strips to ensure buoyancy at all times and limit
potential water ingress.
Maintenance:
Foils should be rinsed with fresh water after use.
Anodising will prevent surface corrosion, however if surface damage does
occur then the aluminium should be polished with a wax polish e.g. car polish.
Nylon mouldings are maintenance free but can be replaced if damaged.
If you intend to travel a lot with the boat, then an RS padded rudder bag would be a
worthwhile investment.
4.4 Spar Care
The mast, boom and bowsprit are aluminium tubing (with the exception of the top
mast which is a composite section). Wash with fresh water as often as possible, both
inside and out. Check all the riveted fittings and the masthead sheave on a regular
basis for any signs of corrosion or wear.

4.4 Sail Care
The mainsail should be rolled and stored dry, out of direct sunlight. Dry the
gennaker, fold it and store it in its bag.
When using a new sail for the first time, try to avoid extreme conditions because high
loads on new sailcloth can diminish the racing life of the sail.
If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove the mark using normal detergent and
warm water. DO NOT attempt to launder the sail yourself.
Repairs should be temporarily made using self-adhesive Dacron, Mylar, or gennaker
repair tape (depending on sail type). The sail should be returned to a sail maker for a
professional repair. Check for wear and tear, especially around the batten pockets
and boltrope, on a regular basis.

5.WARRANTY
1. This warranty is given in addition to all rights given by statute or otherwise.
2. LDC Racing Sailboats warrants all boats and component parts manufactured
by it to be free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and
circumstances, and the exercise of prudent seamanship, for a period of twelve (12)
months from the date of commissioning by the original owner. The owner must
exercise routine maintenance and care.
3. This warranty does not apply to defects in surface coatings caused by
weathering or normal use and wear.
4. This warranty does not apply if the boat has been altered, modified, or
repaired without prior written approval of LDC Racing Sailboats. Any changes to the
hull structure, deck structure, rig or foils without the written approval of LDC Racing
Sailboats will void this warranty.
5. Warranty claims for materials or equipment not manufactured by LDC Racing
Sailboats can be made directly to the relevant manufacturer. LDC Racing Sailboats
warrants that these parts were installed correctly and according to the instructions
provided by the manufacturer.
6. Warranty claims shall be made to LDC Racing Sailboats as soon as
practicable and, in any event, within 28 days upon discovery of a defect. No repairs
under warranty are to be undertaken without written approval of LDC Racing
Sailboats.
7. Upon approval of a warranty claim, LDC Racing Sailboats may, at its
expense, repair or replace the component. In all cases, the replacement will be equal
in value to the original component.
8. Due to the continuing evolution of the marine market, LDC Racing Sailboats
reserves the right to change the design, material, or construction of its products
without incurring any obligation to incorporate such changes in products already built
or in use.

6. GLOSSARY
A
Aft
At the back
Anchor Line
Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat
Astern
Behind the boat
Assymetric
Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow
B
Back
To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of
the sail
Bailer
A bucker or other container used for bailing water
Batten
A thin strip of wood/plastic inserted in the sail to keep
it flat
Batten Key
A key used to adjust the batten
Batten Pocket
A pocket on the sail that holds the batten
Beam
Width of the boat at the widest point at the side. The
phrase ‘wind on the beam’ means that the wind is
coming from the side
Bear Away
To turn downwind
Beat
To sail a zig-zag course to make progress upwind
Beaufort Scale
A measure of the wind strength, from Force 1 to Force
12
Beckett
A metal loop attached to the bottom of a block
Bilge Rail
The moulded line that marks the transition from the
side to the bottom of the hull
Block
A pulley used for sail control lines
Boom
The spar at the bottom edge of the sail
Bow
The front of the boat
Bowline
A useful and reliable knot with a loop in it. See
Appendix 9.3 Three Essential Knots
Bow Snubber
The part of the trolley that the bow rests on
Bowsprit
The pole that protrudes from the front of the hull, to
which the gennaker is attached
Builder’s Plate
Plate that contains build information
Bung
A stopper for the drain hole
Buoy
Floating object attached to the bottom of the sea; used
variously for navigation, mooring, and to mark out a
race course
Buoyancy Aid
Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water
Buoyancy Compartment
Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains
buoyancy
Burgee
Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind
direction
C
Capsize
To overturn
Capsize Recovery
To right, or recover, the boat after a capsize

Catamaran
A boat with two hulls
Centreline
An imaginary line that runs through the centre of the
hull, from the bow to the stern
Chart Datum
Depths shown on a navigation chart, at the lowest
possible state of the tide
Chute
The tube under the foredeck, in which the genneker is
stored
Cleat
A device to grip ropes and hold them in place; some
grip automatically, while others need the rope tying
around them
Clew
Lower corner of the sail, closest to the stern
Close Hauled
Sailing as close to the wind as you can; point of sailing
to sail upwind
Cockpit
The open area in the boat providing space for the
helm and the crew
Collision Regulations
The ‘rules of the road’ employed to avoid collisions
Compass Rose
The compass shown on a chart to aid navigation
Crew
Helps the helmsman to sail the boat; usually handles
the jib sheets
D
Dacron
A brand of polyester sailcloth that is wrinkle-resistant
and strong
Daggerboard
The foil that sits below the hull to counteract the
sideways push of the wind, and to create forward
motion
Daggerboard Case
The casing in the hull through which the daggerboard
is pushed into place
Deck
A floor-like surface occupying part of the hull
Deck Moulding
A moulded deck
Downhaul
Applies downwards tension to a sail
Downwind
To sail in the direction hat the wind is blowing
Drain Hole
A hole in the hull from which trapped water can be
drained
Draught
The depth of the vessel below the surface
E
Ease
To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently
F
Figure-of-Eight Knot
A stopper knot. See Appendix 9.3 Three Essential
Knots
Foils
The daggerboard and the rudder
Foot
The bottom edge of a sail
Fore
Towards the front of the boat
Furling Handle
A handle attached to the bottom of the mast, used for
furling the mainsail

G
Gennaker
A sail that is a cross between a genoa and a
gennaker, hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Downhaul
The rope used to pull the gennaker down
Gennaker Halyard
The rope used to pull the gennaker up
Gooseneck
The ‘jaws’ of the boom that clip onto the mast
Gooseneck Mast Collar
A collar on the mast, on which the gooseneck sits
Gunwhale
The top edge of the hull, that you sit on when leaning
out to balance the boat
Gybe
To change direction by turning the stern of the boat
though the wind
H
Halyard
A rope used to hoist sails
Head
The top corner of a sail
‘Head to Wind’
To point the bow in the direction that the wind is
blowing from, causing the sails to flap
Head Sheave
A fitting that sits on the top of the mast, through which
the main halyard is threaded
‘Heave To’
To stop the boat by easing the mainsheet and backing
the jib
Heel
A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways
force of the wind
Helm/Helmsman
The person who steers the boat, or another name for
the tiller
Hoist
To pull a sail up
Horn Cleat
A type of cleat on which a rope is made fast by
wrapping around the ‘horn’
Hull
The hollow, lower-most part of the boat, floating
partially submerged and supporting the rest of the
boat
I
Inglefield Clip
A hook-shaped clip which attaches to an identical
hook-shaped clip
‘Into the Wind’
To point the bow in the direction that the wind is
blowing from, causing the sails to flap
Inversion
A capsize where the boat turns upside down, or
‘turtles’
J
Jammer
Another word for a cleat
Jib
The small sail in front of the mast
Jib Sheet
The rope used to control the jib
K
Kicking Cascade
The rope system that is attached to the base of the
mast and to the boom, helping to hold the boom down

Knot
A measurement of speed, based on one minute of
latitude
Knot on Knot
A knot used to tie an end of rope to a sail or a fitting.
See Appendix 9.3 Three Essential Knots
L
Launching
To leave the slipway
Latitude
Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from
east to west. The are used in the measurement of
position and distance on a navigation chart
Leech
The back edge of a sail
Leeward
The part of the boat that is furthest away from the
direction in which the wind is blowing
Leverage
The result of using crew weight as a ‘lever’ to
counteract heel caused by the wind
Lie To
A way of stopping the boat temporarily by easing
sheets on a close reach
Lifejacket
Unlike a buoyancy aid, a lifejacket will keep a person
fully afloat with their head clear of the water
Lifting Handle
Handles located at the back of the boat, used when
lifting
Longitude
Imaginary lines running round the globe from north to
south, used with lines of latitude to measure position
and distance
Luff
The front edge of a sail
Lull
When the wind briefly stops blowing as hard, there is
a ‘lull’ in the wind
M
Mainsail
The largest sail on a boat
Mainsail Clew Hook
The fitting that is attached to the sail slider on the
boom, which holds the sail in place
Mainsheet
The rope used to control the mainsail
Mainsheet Bridle
The rope that runs across the transom of the boat, to
which the mainsheet is attached
Mast Foot
The bottom of the mast
Mast Gate
The fitting that, when shut, holds the mast in place
Mast-Gate Pin
The pin that holds the mast gate shut
Mast Track
The groove that runs up the back of the mast into
which the luff of the mainsail is fed
Mast Well
The ‘well’ in the hull in which the mast sits, sometimes
referred to as the mast cup
Mainsheet Centre Block
The main block, usually fixed to the cockpit floor,
through which the mainsheet passes
Man Overboard
Recovery
The act of recovering a ‘man overboard’ from the
water
Mast
The spar that sails are hoisted up
Mast Lower Section
The bottom section of a two-piece mast
Mast Top Section
The top section of a two-piece mast

Meteorology
The study of weather forecasting
Moor
To tie a boat to a fixed object
Mylar
A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make
racing sails
N
National Sailing
Federation
Body that governs sailing in a nation. In the UK, this is
the Royal Yachting Association
Navigation
To find a way from one point to the other
O
‘Off the Wind’
To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Outhaul
The control line that applies tension tot he foot of the
sail, by pulling the sail along the boom
P
Painter
The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed
object
Pontoon
A floating jetty to moor your boat to
Port
The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
R
RS Dealer
A third-party who sells the RS Range
Reach
Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat:
Beam Reach: Point of sailing in which the wind is
blowing towards the sail at 90˚
Broad Reach: Point of sailing between a beam
reach and a run (sailing downwind)
Close Reach: Point of sailing between a beam
reach and a beat (sailing upwind). Sometimes
referred to as a ‘tight’ reach
Reef
To make the sails smaller in strong winds
Reefing Eyes
Metal eyelets in the mainsail that enable it to be
reefed
Road Base
A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley
upon to trail behind a vehicle
Rudder
The foil that, when attached to the stern, controls the
direction that the boat moves in
Rudder Blade
The large, rigid, thin part of the rudder
Rudder Downhaul
The control line that enables you to pull the rudder into
place
Rudder Pintle
The fitting on the transom onto which the rudder stock
fits
Rudder Stock
The top part of the rudder, usually including the tiller,
into which the rudder blade fits, and which then
attaches to the rudder pintle
Run
To ‘run with the wind’, or to sail in the direction that the
wind is blowing