SKY-WATCHER EQ6 User manual

130405V1
HEQ5/EQ6 MOUNT
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REFRACTORREFRACTOR
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ABCD
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HIJ
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ABCD
EFGHI
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HEQ5 EQ6
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
Dust Cap/Mask
(Remove before Viewing)
Sun Shade/Dew Cap
Objective Lens Location
Adjustable Lens Cell
Telescope Main Body
Piggyback Bracket
Tube Ring
Finderscope
Finderscope Bracket
Alignment Screw
Eyepiece
Diagonal
Focus Tube
Focus Knob
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
Dust Cap/Mask
(Remove before Viewing)
Sun Shade/Dew Cap
Objective Lens Location
Adjustable Lens Cell
Telescope Main Body
Piggyback Bracket
Tube Ring
Finderscope
Finderscope Bracket
Alignment Screw
Eyepiece
Diagonal
Focus Tube
Focus Knob
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
R.A. Lock Lever
Polarscope Holder
(not shown)
Latitude Scale
Altitude AdjustmentT-bolts
Azimuth Adjustment Knob
Accessory Tray
Height Adjustment
Clamp
Tripod Leg
Hand Control
Counterweight Rod
Counterweight
Counterweight Thumb
Screw
Counterweight Rod
Lock Knob
Dec Setting Circle
Dec Lock Lever
Mounting Plate
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
R.A. Lock Lever
Polarscope Holder
(not shown)
Latitude Scale
Altitude AdjustmentT-bolts
Azimuth Adjustment Knob
Accessory Tray
Tripod Leg
Height Adjustment
Clamp
Hand Control
Counterweight Rod
Counterweight
Counterweight Thumb
Screw
Counterweight Rod
Lock Knob
Dec Setting Circle
Dec Lock Lever
Mounting Plate
EQ6
HEQ5
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REFRACTORREFRACTOR
1
2
3
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ABCD
E
F
G
HIJ
K
L
M
N
J
K
ABCD
EFGHI
L
M
N1
2
3
4
5
7
6
8
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
HEQ5 EQ6
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
Dust Cap/Mask
(Remove before Viewing)
Sun Shade/Dew Cap
Objective Lens Location
Adjustable Lens Cell
Telescope Main Body
Piggyback Bracket
Tube Ring
Finderscope
Finderscope Bracket
Alignment Screw
Eyepiece
Diagonal
Focus Tube
Focus Knob
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
Dust Cap/Mask
(Remove before Viewing)
Sun Shade/Dew Cap
Objective Lens Location
Adjustable Lens Cell
Telescope Main Body
Piggyback Bracket
Tube Ring
Finderscope
Finderscope Bracket
Alignment Screw
Eyepiece
Diagonal
Focus Tube
Focus Knob
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
R.A. Lock Lever
Polarscope Holder
(not shown)
Latitude Scale
Altitude AdjustmentT-bolts
Azimuth Adjustment Knob
Accessory Tray
Height Adjustment
Clamp
Tripod Leg
Hand Control
Counterweight Rod
Counterweight
Counterweight Thumb
Screw
Counterweight Rod
Lock Knob
Dec Setting Circle
Dec Lock Lever
Mounting Plate
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
R.A. Lock Lever
Polarscope Holder
(not shown)
Latitude Scale
Altitude AdjustmentT-bolts
Azimuth Adjustment Knob
Accessory Tray
Tripod Leg
Height Adjustment
Clamp
Hand Control
Counterweight Rod
Counterweight
Counterweight Thumb
Screw
Counterweight Rod
Lock Knob
Dec Setting Circle
Dec Lock Lever
Mounting Plate
EQ6
HEQ5
9
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REFLECTORREFLECTOR
HIJ
L
K
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2
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8
9
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15
16
A
B
C
D
EQ6
HEQ5
A
B
C
D
EFG
EFG
H
I
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J
L
K
HEQ5 EQ6
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
Eyepiece
Focus Tube
Focus Knob
Dust Cap/Mask
(Remove before viewing)
Finderscope
Finderscope Bracket
Alignment Screw
Tension Adjustment Screw
Piggyback Bracket
Tube Rings
Telescope Main Body
Primary Mirror Location
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
Eyepiece
Focus Tube
Focus Knob
Dust Cap/Mask
(Remove before viewing)
Finderscope
Finderscope Bracket
Alignment Screw
Tension Adjustment Screw
Piggyback Bracket
Tube Rings
Telescope Main Body
Primary Mirror Location
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
R.A. Lock Lever
Polarscope Holder
(not shown)
Latitude Scale
Altitude AdjustmentT-bolts
Azimuth Adjustment Knob
Accessory Tray
Tripod Leg
Height Adjustment Clamp
Hand Control
Counterweight Rod
Counterweight
Counterweight Thumb
Screw
Counterweight Rod
Lock Knob
Dec Setting Circle
Dec Lock Lever
Mounting Plate
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
R.A. Lock Lever
Polarscope Holder
(not shown)
Latitude Scale
Altitude AdjustmentT-bolts
Azimuth Adjustment Knob
Accessory Tray
Tripod Leg
Height Adjustment Clamp
Hand Control
Counterweight Rod
Counterweight
Counterweight Thumb
Screw
Counterweight Rod
Lock Knob
Dec Setting Circle
Dec Lock Lever
Mounting Plate
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Tripod Set Up
Mount Assembly
Telescope Assembly
Finderscope Assembly
Eyepiece Assembly
Hand Control Holder Installation (For SynScanTM Only)
ASSEMBLINGYOURTELESCOPE
Aligning the Finderscope
Balancing the Telescope
Operating the Mount Manually
Using the Optional Barlow Lens
Focusing
Polar Alignment
Pointing Your Telescope
Choosing the Appropriate Eyepiece
OPERATINGYOURTELESCOPE 8
8
9
10
10
10
14
17
Collimating a Newtonian Reflector
Collimating a Refractor with the Adjustable Objective-Lens Cell
Cleaning Your Telescope
19
21
21
5
8
5
5
6
6
7
7
OBSERVINGTHESKY 18
PROPERCAREFORYOURTELESCOPE 19
TABLEOFCONTENTS
NEVER USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN.
PERMANENT EYE DAMAGE WILL RESULT. USE A PROPER SOLAR FILTER
FIRMLY MOUNTED ON THE FRONT OF THE TELESCOPE FOR VIEWING
THE SUN. WHEN OBSERVING THE SUN, PLACE A DUST CAP OVER YOUR
FINDERSCOPE OR REMOVE IT TO PROTECT YOU FROM ACCIDENTAL
EXPOSURE. NEVER USE AN EYEPIECE-TYPE SOLAR FILTER AND NEVER
USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO PROJECT SUNLIGHT ONTO ANOTHER
SURFACE, THE INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP WILL DAMAGE THE
TELESCOPE OPTICAL ELEMENTS.
APPENDIXA-STANDARDTIMEZONESOFTHEWORLD
APPENDIXB-OPTIONALACCESSORIES
I
II
IV
V
APPENDIXC-RECOMMENDEDREADING
APPENDIXD-GLOSSARY

Note: Loosen the azimuth adjustment knobs if mount does not
fit into tripod head completely. Retighten knobs to secure.
5
ASSEMBLINGYOURTELESCOPE
Fig. 1 ASSEMBLINGTHETRIPOD LEGS (Fig.1)
1) Slowly loosen the height adjustment clamp
and gently pull out the lower section of
each tripod leg.Tighten the clamps to hold
the legs in place.
2) Spread the tripod legs apart to stand
the tripod upright.
3) Place a carpenter's level or bubble level on
the top of the tripod legs. Adjust the height of
each tripod leg until the tripod head is properly
leveled. Note that the tripod legs may not be at
same length when the equatorial mount is level.
ATTACHINGTHE ACCESSORYTRAY (Fig. 3)
1) Slide the accessory tray along the primary locking
shaft until it pushes against the tripod legs.
2) Secure with the washer and locking knob.
ATTACHING MOUNTTOTRIPOD LEGS (Fig. 2)
1) Align metal dowel on the tripod head with the gap
between the azimuth adjustment knobs underneath
the mount.
2) Push the primary locking shaft up against the
mount and turn the knurled knob underneath to
secure mount to tripod.
Fig. 3
TRIPOD SET UP
Fig. 2.
MOUNT ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 Fig. 5
INSTALLINGTHE COUNTER-
WEIGHTS (Fig. 4, 5)
1) Loosen the counterweight rod lock knob
and gently pull out the counterweight rod.
Re-tighten the lock knob to secure the
counterweight rod in place.
2) Unscrew the threaded cap from the
end of the counterweight rod.
3) Locate the counterweights and slide them
halfway along the counterweight rod.Tighten
the counterweight thumb screws to secure.
5) Replace the cap on the end of the
counterweight rod.
EQ-6
(diagram applicable to both mounts)

6
ATTACHINGTHE FINDERSCOPE
BRACKET (Fig. 9,10,11)
1) Locate the finderscope bracket. Carefully remove
the rubber-o-ring from the finderscope bracket.
2) Position the o-ring into the groove located
approximately half-way along the finderscope tube.
3) Locate the finderscope optical assembly.
4) Slide the finderscope bracket into the rectangular
slot and tighten the screw to hold the mount in place.
5) Position the finderscope into its bracket by sliding
it backwards until the rubber o-ring seats in the
finderscope mount.
Fig.9
Fig.10
Fig.11
Fig. 8 ATTACHINGTHE TELESCOPE MAINTUBE TOTHE
TUBE RINGS (Fig.8)
1) Remove the telescope tube from the paper covering.
2) Find the center of balance of the telescope tube.Place this in
between the two tube rings.Close the hinges around the
telescope and fasten securely by tightening the thumb nuts.
TELESCOPE ASSEMBLY
FINDERSCOPE ASSEMBLY (for reflectors)
Fig. 7
ATTACHINGTHE MOUNTING PLATE (Fig.6)
1) Position the mounting plate on the mounting bracket.
2) Secure by tightening the two locking screws.
ATTACHINGTHE TUBE RINGS (Fig.7)
1) Remove the telescope tube assembly from
its plastic packaging.
2) Remove the tube rings from the telescope by
releasing their thumb nuts and opening
their hinges.
3) Using the bolts provided, fasten the tube rings
to the mount with the 10mm wrench provided.
Fig. 6
EQ-6
(diagram applicable to both mounts)
TELESCOPE ASSEMBLY
Fig.12
Fig.13
Fig.14
1) Locate the finderscope bracket. Carefully remove
the rubber-o-ring from the finderscope bracket.
2) Position the o-ring into the groove located approximately
half-way along the finderscope tube.
3) Locate the finderscope optical assembly.
4) Slide the finderscope bracket into the rectangular slot and
tighten the screw to hold the mount in place.
5) Position the finderscope into its mount by sliding it backwards
until the rubber o-ring seats in the finderscope mount.
ATTACHINGTHE FINDERSCOPE (Fig.12,13,14)
FINDERSCOPE ASSEMBLY (for refractors)

7
Fig.15 Fig.16
INSERTINGTHE EYEPIECE (Fig.15, 16)
1) Unscrew the thumbscrews on the end of the focus
tube to remove the black plastic end-cap.
2) Insert the desired eyepiece and secure it by
retightening the thumbscrews.
EYEPIECE ASSEMBLY (for reflectors)
Fig.17 INSERTINGTHE EYEPIECE (Fig.17)
1) Loosen the thumbscrew on the end of the focus tube.
2) Insert the diagonal into the focus tube and re-tighten
the thumbscrew to hold the diagonal in place.
3) Loosen the thumbscrews on the diagonal.
4) Insert the desired eyepiece into diagonal and secure
by re-tightening the thumbscrews.
EYEPIECE ASSEMBLY (for refractors)
Fig.18
Locate the hand control holder. Slide
the holder onto the accessory tray as
shown in Fig.6.
INSTALLING THE HAND CONTROL
HOLDER (Fig.18) (for SynScanTM only)
HAND CONTROL HOLDER INSTALLATION

8
Aligning the finderscope
OPERATINGYOURTELESCOPE
Fig.a
Fig.a-1
These fixed magnification scopes mounted on the optical tube are very useful
accessories. When they are correctly aligned with the telescope, objects can
be quickly located and brought to the centre of the field. Alignment is best
done outdoors in day light when it's easier to locate objects. If it is necessary
to refocus your finderscope, sight on an object that is at least 500 yards
(metres) away. Loosen the locking ring by unscrewing it back towards the
bracket. The front lens holder can now be turned in and out to focus. When
focus is reached, lock it in position with the locking ring (Fig.a).
Choose a distant object that is at least 500 yards away and
point the main telescope at the object. Adjust the telescope so
that the object is in the centre of the view in your eyepiece.
Check the finderscope to see if the object centred in the main
telescope view is centred on the crosshairs.
Adjust the two small screws to centre the finderscope
crosshairs on the object (Fig.a-1).
1)
2)
3)
Balancing the telescope
Fig.b
Slowly unlock the R.A. and Dec. lock knobs.
Rotate the telescope until both the optical tube
and the counterweight rod are horizontal to the
ground, and the telescope tube is to the side of
the mount (Fig.b).
Tighten the Dec. lock knob.
Move the counterweights along the counterweight
rod until the telescope is balanced and remains
stationary when released.
Tighten the counterweight thumb screws to hold
the counterweights in their new position.
A Telescope should be balanced before each observing session. Balancing reduces stress on the telescope
mount and allows for precise control of micro-adjustment. A balanced telescope is specially critical when
using the optional clock drive for astrophotography. The telescope should be balanced after all accessories
(eyepiece, camera, etc.) have been attached. Before balancing your telescope, make sure that your tripod is
balanced and on a stable surface. For photography, point the telescope in the direction you will be taking
photos before performing the balancing steps.
R.A. Balancing
1)
2)
3)
4)
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
Dec. Balancing
The R.A. balancing should be done before proceeding with Dec. balancing.
For best results, adjust the altitude of the mount to between 60º and 75º if possible.
Release the R.A. lock knob and rotate around the R.A. axis so that the counterweight rod is in a horizontal
position. Tighten the R.A. lock knob.
Unlock the Dec. lock knob and rotate the telescope tube until it is parallel to the ground.
Slowly release the telescope and determine in which direction it rotates. Loosen the telescope tube rings and
slide the telescope tube forward or backward in the rings until it is balanced.
Once the telescope no longer rotates from its parallel starting position, re-tighten the tube rings and the Dec.
lock knob. Reset the altitude axis to your local latitude.
N
(diagram applicable to both mounts)

9
Fig.d
Fig.e
Fig.c
Altitude
adjustment
Azimuth
adjustment
EQ-6
The HEQ5 and EQ6 mount have controls for
both conventional altitude (up-down) and
azimuthal (left-right) directions of motion. Use
the altitude adjustment T-bolts for altitude
adjustments. These allow fine-adjustment for
setting the mount to your local latitude. The
azimuthal axis is changed by the two azimuth
adjustment knobs located near the tripod head.
These allow fine-adjustment of azimuth for polar
aligning (Fig.c).
R.A. adjustment
Dec. adjustment
Power
DC 12V
ON
OFF
Dec. scale
R.A. scale
Latitude
scale
Power
DC 12V
ON
OFF
(Diagram applicable to both mounts)
(Diagram applicable to both mounts)
Dec. scale
R.A. scale
Latitude
scale
HEQ5
EQ6
Operating the mount manually
Make sure to loosen one altitude
adjustment T-bolt before tightening the
other. Over-tightening can cause the bolts
to bend or break.
In addition, the HEQ5 and EQ6 mounts have
direction controls for polar aligned astronomical
observing. These directions use right ascension
(east/west) and declination (north/south) axis.
There are two options to move the telescope in
these directions: For large and quick movement,
loosen the R.A. lock level under the R.A. shaft
or the Dec. lock level near the top of the mount
(Fig.d). For fine adjustments, use the SynTrekTM
or SynScanTM hand control.
There are three numerical scales on this mount.
The lower scale is used for polar alignment of
the telescope to your local latitude. The R.A.
(right ascension) scale is measures hour angle
and is adjustable to your local meridian. The
declination scale is located near the top of the
mount (Fig.e).
(For SynScanTM Only) Do not adjust the mount
manually when under the SynScanTM operation
mode. The telescope will have to be returned to
the Home Position and initial star alignment will
have to be done again.
Warning Tips Trouble Shooting

10
Fig.f
Using the optional Barlow lens
A Barlow is a negative lens which increases the
magnifying power of an eyepiece, while reducing the field
of view. It expands the cone of the focussed light before it
reaches the focal point, so that the telescope's focal length
appears longer to the eyepiece.
The Barlow is inserted between the focuser and the
eyepiece in a reflector, and usually between the diagonal
and the eyepiece in a refractor or a maksutov (Fig.f). With
some telescopes, it can also be inserted between the
focuser and the diagonal, and in this position it gives even
greater magnification. For example, a 2X Barlow when
inserted after the diagonal can become 3X when placed in
front of the diagonal.
In addition to increasing magnification, the benefits of
using a Barlow lens include improved eye relief, and
reduced spherical aberration in the eyepiece. For this
reason, a Barlow plus a lens often outperform a single lens
producing the same magnification. However, its greatest
value may be that a Barlow can potentially double the
number of eyepieces in your collection.
Barlow
Diagonal
Eyepiece
(Refracting Telescopes
and Maksutovs)
(Reflecting Telescopes)
Barlow Eyepiece
Focusing
Fig.g
Slowly turn the focus knobs under the focuser, one way or
the other, until the image in the eyepiece is sharp (Fig.g).
The image usually has to be finely refocused over time,
due to small variations caused by temperature changes,
flexures, etc. This often happens with short focal ratio
telescopes, particularly when they have not yet reached
outside temperature. Refocusing is almost always
necessary when you change an eyepiece or add or
remove a Barlow lens. On some focusers, there is a
tension adjustment. Over-tighten this may damage the
rack and pinion assembly.
Polar Alignment
Preparing the Mount
This section describes how to achieve a precise polar
alignment with your HEQ5/EQ6 mount. To achieve a
precise polar alignment it is first necessary to prepare the
mount. In the Northern Hemisphere, this includes orienting
the polar scope reticule and aligning the polar scope
reticule. If you are in the Southern Hemisphere, you only
need to align the polar scope reticule. These steps, which
only need to be done once, are outlined first.
If you have already prepared your mount then you can
skip to the final section entitled "Procedure for Precise
Polar Alignment of the HEQ5/EQ6 Mount". If not, follow
the steps to prepare your mount for precise polar
alignment.
(Maksutov Telescopes)
(Refracting Telescopes) (Reflecting Telescopes)
Power
on
off
(Diagram applicable to both mounts)
Fig.h

11
GLOSSARY (Fig.h-1)
Date Scale Indicator
This indicator is used as a reference
point when using the Date Scale.
Date Scale
The circular scale surrounding the
polar scope eyepiece. On the outer
part of the scale you will see months
from 1 (January) to 12 (December)
with divisions in between them. The
longer divisions mark 10-day
increments and the short ones 2-day
increments. The number of the
month appears below the 15th day
of that month.
Longitude Scale
The small scale that appears below
the Date Scale and is labeled E 20
10 0 10 20 W. Since the Date and
Longitude scales are on the same
ring, This ring is sometimes referred
to as the Date/Longitude scale.
Longitude Index Marker
A small line on the black plastic ring
that is next to the Date/Longitude
Ring.
Index Marker Ring
The small black ring with the Index
marker on it.
RA Setting Circle
The scale showing hours from 0 to
23. On the HEQ5 it is directly above
the Date/Longitude Scale. On the
EQ6 it is opposite the end where the
polar scope eyepiece is located. If
you live in the Northern Hemisphere
you will be using the upper scale on
the RA Setting Circle. The lower
scale is for use in the Southern
Hemisphere.
RA Setting Indicator
On the HEQ5 the Date Scale
Indicator also acts as the RA Setting
indicator. On the EQ6, it is the small
triangular indicator next to the RA
setting circle.
EQ6
Date Scale
Indicator
Longitude Index
Marker
Date scale (upper)
Longitude Scale
(lower)
Index Marker
Ring
HEQ5 Setscrew
4
20
1
0
E
W
20
20
10
10
0
12
0
23
23
1
2
1
22
2
21
3
4
Longitude Index
Marker
Index Marker
Ring
RA Setting
Circle
Date scale (upper)
Longitude Scale
(lower)
Date Scale and RA
Setting Indicator
RA Setting Indicator
First, remove the caps from the upper and lower ends of the RA axis so you can look into the polar
scope (Fig.h). Release the counterweight shaft and rotate the mount in declination axis so that the
hole in the shaft is in front of the polar scope. This allows you to see all the way through the RAshaft.
Fig.h-1

12
Fig.h-2
Fig.h-3
Unlock the RA axis and rotate it until the reticule pattern shows the Polaris Location Indicator at the
very bottom (i.e., the 6 o'clock position - See Figure h-2). Re-lock the RA axis.
Loosen the RA setting circle by loosening the setscrews, then turn the setting circle so that its
indicator is pointing to zero. Do not rotate the mount in RA, just loosen and move the RA Setting
Circle. When done, tighten the setscrews.
Now unlock the RA axis and rotate the mount so the Setting Circle indicator points to 1 h 0 m. Use
the top scale if you are in the northern hemisphere and the bottom scale if you are in the southern
hemisphere. Lock the RA axis.
Polaris
NCP
Octans
C
a
s
s
i
o
p
e
i
a
B
i
g
D
i
p
p
e
r
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Rotate the mount in RA 180 degrees (i.e., 12 hours on the RA
setting circle).
Note the displacement of your target from the centre of the
crosshairs. If it is not displaced at all, it means your polar
scope reticule is already properly aligned and you don't need
to do any more. If it is displaced, continue with the next step
of the alignment procedure.
Use the three adjustment screws on the polar scope to move
the reticule so that exactly one-half of the displacement is
corrected for. For example, if the displacement were about
half an inch in the direction of 1 o'clock, then you would adjust
the cross at the centre of the reticule to go half the distance in
that direction (See Figure h-3).
Now continue to move the cross using the altitude and
azimuth adjusters on the mount. When the target is back
under the cross, go back to step 2, but this time rotate the
mount 180 degrees in the opposite direction. If you still get
displacement of the target, repeat steps 3-5.
1.
2
3.
4.
5.
Step 2: Aligning the Polar Scope Reticule
The polar scope needs to be aligned with the polar axis of your mount. The steps below tell you how to
perform this alignment. Note, you can do this procedure at night while pointing at Polaris. However, it is
probably easier to do it in the daytime using a distant point as your target (e.g, a street light a couple of
hundred yards away). If doing the procedure during the day, you might find it convenient to set your
altitude to near parallel with the ground to put the eyepiece of the polar scope into a comfortable
position. Just be sure to leave room to make vertical adjustments in both directions. Also, do this
procedure without an OTA or counterweights. It will make turning the mount a lot simpler.
If target drifted to here
adjust reticule to
place it here (half
the distance)
Rotate your Date/Longitude scale so that October 10 lines
up with the Date Scale Indicator (i.e., 10th day of month
10).
Unlock the RA axis and rotate it back so the RA Setting
Indicator points to zero again on the RA Setting Circle
scale.
Use small flat head screw driver to loosen the setscrew on
the Index Marker Ring. Rotate the ring so that the marker
is aligned with October 10 on the datescale. Tighten the
setscrew to lock the ring in place.
After completing these steps you will have the reticule in the
proper orientation.
Locate a distant object and place it under the cross at the centre of the polarscope reticule.
Step 1: Orienting the Polar Scope Reticule
Follow the steps as outlined below to properly orient the reticule inside the polar scope.

13
Fig.h-4
Fig.h-5
Rotate the RA axis so the Longitude Index Marker (See
Figure h-4) lines up with your Date Scale Indicator. Lock the
RA axis.
Turn the Date/Longitude scale so that your calculated "Zero"
point lines up with the Longitude Index Marker.
Unlock the RA axis and rotate the mount so the Date Scale
Indicator is pointing at the current date. Lock the RA axis.
Loosen and move the RA Setting Circle to show the current
time. Use the upper portion of the scale for the Northern
Hemisphere and the bottom for the Southern hemisphere.
Tighten the Setting Circle.
Unlock the RA axis and rotate the mount until RA setting circle
indicator points at Zero. The reticule is now in the proper
orientation.
Use the altitude and azimuth adjusters to place Polaris into
the small circle on the perimeter of the bigger circle in the
polar scope reticule.
1.
2
3
4
5
6
Procedure for Precise Polar Alignment of the HEQ5/EQ6 Mount.
Preliminary Step: Determining the Zero Point on the Longitude Scale
The alignment procedure requires that you set the Longitude scale to "Zero". Depending on where you
live, "Zero" can be anyplace between the E and the W on longitude scale, so first you need to determine
where zero is for your location. Your Zero point is equal to the difference between your actual longitude
and the longitude of the central meridian of your time zone. To calculate the longitude of your central
meridian, multiply your time zone offset from Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) by 15.
For example, in Waterloo, Ontario, Canada (Eastern Time) the time zone offset is -5 hours. Ignore the
sign and simply multiply 5 x 15 = 75. The longitude of the central meridian for the Eastern Time Zone is
75 degrees west. The actual longitude at the viewing location in Waterloo is 80 degrees 30 minutes
HEQ5
EQ6
4
20
1
0
E
W
20
20
10
10
0
12
0
23
23
1
2
1
22
2
21
3
4
The polar alignment is complete. This procedure should get you
within a couple of minutes of true north.
Precise Polar Alignment for the Southern Hemisphere:
There is a 4-star pattern in the polar scope, which resembles the
bucket of the big Dipper. In the Southern Hemisphere, there is an
Asterism in Octans which can be used for Polar Alignment. This
procedure can be somewhat difficult in the city because all four
of the stars in the Asterism are fainter than Magnitude 5.
Rotate the telescope in RA axis and/or use the altitude and
azimuth adjusters to place the four stars in the Asterism in the
four circles (Fig. h-5).
Place the four stars
in the Asterism here
Polaris
NCP
Octans
C
a
s
s
i
o
p
e
i
a
B
i
g
D
i
p
p
e
r
West. Ignore the 30 minutes and just use 80 in the equation.
Now it's simple, 80-75=5. Since 80 is greater than 75 the result
is positive 5. That means Waterloo, Ontario is west of its
Central Meridian. In this case, the zero point is at the "5" mark
on the W side of the scale. If the location was east of its central
meridian the equation would yield a negative value. In that case
the E side of the scale should be used.
Precise Polar Alignment for the Northern Hemisphere:

14
A German Equatorial mount has an adjustment, sometimes called a wedge, which tilts the mount's polar axis
so that it points at the appropriate Celestial Pole (NCP or SCP). Once the mount has been polar aligned, it
needs to be rotated around only the polar axis to keep an object centred. Do not reposition the mount base or
change the latitude setting. The mount has already been correctly aligned for your geographical location (ie.
Latitude), and all remaining telescope pointing is done by rotating the optical tube around the polar (R.A.) and
declination axes.
A problem for many beginners is recognizing that a polar-aligned equatorial mount acts like an alt-azimuth
mount which has been aligned to a celestial pole. The wedge tilts the mount to an angle equal to the
observer's Latitude, and therefore it swivels around a plane which parallels the celestial (and Earth's) equator
(Fig.i). This is now its "horizon"; but remember that part of the new horizon is usually blocked by the Earth.
This new "azimuth" motion is called Right Ascension (R.A). In addition, the mount swivels North(+) and South(-
) from the Celestial Equator towards the celestial poles. This plus or minus "altitude" from the celestial equator
is called Declination (Dec).
Fig.i
Plane of local horizon Nadir
Equatorial Mount
(Northern Hemisphere)
Mount aligned on
North Celestial Pole
Zenith
Right
Ascension
Apparent
movement
of stars
Plane of Celestial
Equator
Meridian
Line
Declination
Object you
are viewing
Polaris
Latitude
W
SE
N
Pointing your telescope

15
Pointing to the NCP
For the following examples, it is
assumed that the observing site is
in the Northern Hemisphere. In the
first case (Fig.i-1b), the optical tube
is pointing to the NCP. This is its
probable position following the
polar-alignment step. Since the
telescope is pointing parallel to the
polar axis, it still points to the NCP
as it is rotated around that axis
counter-clockwise, (Fig.i-1a) or
clockwise (Fig.i-1c).
Pointing toward the western or
eastern horizon
Now, consider pointing the
telescope to the western (Fig.i-2a)
or eastern (Fig.i-2b) horizon. If the
counterweight is pointing North,
the telescope can be swivelled from
one horizon to the other around the
Dec axis in an arc that passes
through the NCP (any Dec arc will
pass through the NCP if the mount
is polar-aligned). It can be seen
then that if the optical tube needs to
be pointed at an object north or
south of this arc, it has to be also
rotated around the R.A axis.
a.
b.
c.
Celestial Pole
+
Telescope pointing West
Counterweight pointing North
Telescope pointing East
Counterweight pointing North
+
Celestial
Pole
a. b.
Rotation of the Dec. axis
Rotation of the R.A. axis
Fig.i-1
Fig.i-2
(These diagrams applicable to HEQ5 and EQ6 mounts)

16
Telescopes with long focal lengths often
have a "blind spot" when pointing near
the zenith, because the eyepiece-end of
the optical tube bumps into the mount's
legs (Fig.i-3a). To adapt for this, the
optical tube can be very carefully slipped
up inside the tube rings (Fig.i-3b). This
can be done safely because the tube is
pointing almost vertically, and therefore
moving it does not cause a Dec-balance
problem. It is very important to move the
tube back to the Dec-balanced position
before observing other sky areas.
Something which can be a problem is that
the optical tube often rotates so that the
eyepiece, finderscope and the focussing
knobs are in less convenient positions.
The diagonal can be rotated to adjust the
eyepiece. However, to adjust the
positions of the finderscope and focussing
knobs, loosen the tube rings holding the
optical tube and gently rotate it. Do this
when you are going to view an area for
while, but it is inconvenient to do every
time you briefly go to a new area.
Finally, there are a few things to consider
to ensure that you are comfortable during
the viewing session. First is setting the
height of the mount above the ground by
adjusting the tripod legs. You must
consider the height that you want your
eyepiece to be, and if possible plan on
sitting on a comfortable chair or stool.
Very long optical tubes need to be
mounted higher or you will end up
crouching or lying on the ground when
looking at objects near the zenith. On the
other hand, a short optical tube can be
mounted lower so that there is less
movement due to vibration sources, such
as wind. This is something that should be
decided before going through the effort of
polar aligning the mount.
a.
Telescope pointing at the Zenith
b.
Fig.i-3

17
determined by the design of the eyepiece. Every eyepiece has a value, called the apparent field of view, which
is supplied by the manufacturer. Field of view is usually measured in degrees and/or arc-minutes (there are 60
arc-minutes in a degree). The true field of view produced by your telescope is calculated by dividing the
eyepiece's apparent field of view by the magnification that you previously calculated for the combination.
Using the figures in the previous magnification example, if your 10mm eyepiece has an apparent field of view
of 52 degrees, then the true field of view is 0.65 degrees or 39 arc-minutes.
To put this in perspective, the moon is about 0.5° or 30 arc-minutes in diameter, so this combination would be
fine for viewing the whole moon with a little room to spare. Remember, too much magnification and too small
a field of view can make it very hard to find things. It is usually best to start at a lower magnification with its
wider field and then increase the magnification when you have found what you are looking for. First find the
moon then look at the shadows in the craters!
Calculating the exit pupil
The Exit Pupil is the diameter (in mm) of the narrowest point of the cone of light leaving your telescope.
Knowing this value for a telescope-eyepiece combination tells you whether your eye is receiving all of the light
that your primary lens or mirror is providing. The average person has a fully dilated pupil diameter of about
7mm. This value, varies a bit from person to person, is less until your eyes become fully dark adapted and
decreases as you get older. To determine an exit pupil, you divide the diameter of the primary of your
telescope (in mm) by the magnification.
Exit Pupil = Diameter of Primary mirror in mm
Magnification
For example, a 200mm f/5 telescope with a 40mm eyepiece produces a magnification of 25x and an exit pupil
of 8mm. This combination can probably be used by a young person but would not be of much value to a
senior. The same telescope used with a 32mm eyepiece gives a magnification of about 31x and an exit pupil
of 6.4mm which should be fine for most dark adapted eyes. In contrast, a 200mm f/10 telescope with the
40mm eyepiece gives a magnification of 50x and an exit pupil of 4mm, which is fine for everyone.
True Field of View = Apparent Field of View
Magnification =0.65°
52°
80X =
Choosing the appropriate eyepiece
magnification = = = 80X
Focal length of the telescope
Focal length of the eyepiece
800mm
10mm
Calculating the magnification (power)
The magnification produced by a telescope is determined by the focal length of the eyepiece that is used with
it. To determine a magnification for your telescope, divide its focal length by the focal length of the eyepieces
you are going to use. For example, a 10mm focal length eyepiece will give 80X magnification with an 800mm
focal length telescope.
When you are looking at astronomical objects, you are looking through a column of air that reaches to the
edge of space and that column seldom stays still. Similarly, when viewing over land you are often looking
through heat waves radiating from the ground, house, buildings, etc. Your telescope may be able to give very
high magnification but what you end up magnifying is all the turbulence between the telescope and the
subject. A good rule of thumb is that the usable magnification of a telescope is about 2X per mm of aperture
under good conditions.
Calculating the field of view
The size of the view that you see through your telescope is called the true (or actual) field of view and it is

18
OBSERVINGTHESKY
Sky conditions are usually defined by two atmospheric characteristics, seeing, or the steadiness of the air,
and transparency, light scattering due to the amount of water vapour and particulate material in the air. When
you observe the Moon and the planets, and they appear as though water is running over them, you probably
have bad "seeing" because you are observing through turbulent air. In conditions of good "seeing", the stars
appear steady, without twinkling, when you look at them with unassisted eyes (without a telescope). Ideal
"transparency" is when the sky is inky black and the air is unpolluted.
Sky conditions
Selecting an observing site
Choosing the best time to observe
Cooling the telescope
Travel to the best site that is reasonably accessible. It should be away from city lights, and upwind from any
source of air pollution. Always choose as high an elevation as possible; this will get you above some of the
lights and pollution and will ensure that you aren't in any ground fog. Sometimes low fog banks help to block
light pollution if you get above them. Try to have a dark, unobstructed view of the horizon, especially the
southern horizon if you are in the Northern Hemisphere and vice versa. However, remember that the darkest
sky is usually at the "Zenith", directly above your head. It is the shortest path through the atmosphere. Do not
try to observe any object when the light path passes near any protrusion on the ground. Even extremely light
winds can cause major air turbulence as they flow over the top of a building or wall.
Observing through a window is not recommended because the window glass will distort images considerably.
And an open window can be even worse, because warmer indoor air will escape out the window, causing
turbulence which also affects images.Astronomy is an outdoor activity.
The best conditions will have still air, and obviously, a clear view of the sky. It is not necessary that the sky be
cloud-free. Often broken cloud conditions provide excellent seeing. Do not view immediately after sunset. After
the sun goes down, the Earth is still cooling, causing air turbulence. As the night goes on, not only will seeing
improve, but air pollution and ground lights will often diminish. Some of the best observing time is often in the
early morning hours. Objects are best observed as they cross the meridian, which is an imaginary line that runs
through the Zenith, due North-South. This is the point at which objects reach their highest points in the sky.
Observing at this time reduces bad atmospheric effects. When observing near the horizon, you look through
lots of atmosphere, complete with turbulence, dust particles and increased light pollution.
Telescopes require time to cool down to outside air temperature. This may take longer if there is a big
difference between the temperature of the telescope and the outside air. This minimizes heat wave distortion
inside telescope tube (tube currents). A rule of thumb is to allow 5 minutes per inch of aperture. For example,
a 4 inch refractor would require at least 20 minutes, but an 8" reflector would require at least 40 minutes to
cool off to outside conditions. Tip: use this time for polar alignment.
Adapting your eyes
Do not expose your eyes to anything except red light for 30 minutes prior to observing. This allows your
pupils to expand to their maximum diameter and build up the levels of optical pigments, which are rapidly lost
if exposed to bright light. It is important to observe with both eyes open. This avoids fatigue at the eyepiece. If
you find this too distracting, cover the non-used eye with your hand or an eye patch. Use averted vision on
faint objects: The center of your eye is the least sensitive to low light levels. When viewing a faint object, don't
look directly at it. Instead, look slightly to the side, and the object will appear brighter.

19
PROPERCAREFORYOURTELESCOPE
Collimating a Newtonian reflector
Fig.j
Correctly aligned
Primary mirror
Support for
secondary mirror
Secondary mirror
Focuser
Needs collimation
Primary mirror clip
Ignore the reflected
image for now
Primary mirror clip Primary mirror clip
Primary mirror clip
Adjusting screw
Primary
mirror
Mirror cell
Locking screw
Collimation is the process of aligning the mirrors of your
telescope so that they work in concert with each other to
deliver properly focused light to your eyepiece. By
observing out-of-focus star images, you can test
whether your telescope's optics are aligned. Place a star
in the centre of the field of view and move the focuser so
that the image is slightly out of focus. If the seeing
conditions are good, you will see a central circle of light
(the Airy disc) surrounded by a number of diffraction
rings. If the rings are symmetrical about the Airy disc, the
telescope's optics are correctly collimated (Fig.j).
Fig.j-1
Fig.j-2
Fig.j-3
Fig.j-4
Collimation is a painless process and works like this:
Pull off the lens cap which covers the front of the
telescope and look down the optical tube. At the bottom
you will see the primary mirror held in place by three
clips 120º apart, and at the top the small oval
secondary mirror held in a support and tilted 45º toward
the focuser outside the tube wall (Fig.j-1).
The secondary mirror is aligned by adjusting the three
smaller screws surrounding the central bolt. The
primary mirror is adjusted by the three adjusting screws
at the back of your scope. The three locking screws
beside them serve to hold the mirror in place after
collimation. (Fig.j-2)
Aligning the Secondary Mirror
Point the telescope at a lit wall and insert the
collimating cap into the focuser in place of a regular
eyepiece. Look into the focuser through your collimating
cap. You may have to twist the focus knob a few turns
until the reflected image of the focuser is out of your
view. Note: keep your eye against the back of the focus
tube if collimating without a collimating cap. Ignore the
reflected image of the collimating cap or your eye for
now, instead look for the three clips holding the primary
mirror in place. If you can't see them (Fig.j-3), it means
that you will have to adjust the three bolts on the top of
the secondary mirror holder, with possibly an Allen
wrench or Phillip's screwdriver. You will have to
If you do not have a collimating tool, we suggest
that you make a "collimating cap" out of a plastic
35mm film canister (black with gray lid). Drill or
punch a small pinhole in the exact center of the lid
and cut off the bottom of the canister. This device
will keep your eye centered of the focuser tube.
Insert the collimating cap into the focuser in place
of a regular eyepiece.