Stronghold 5141239 User manual

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STRONGHOLD
4 JAW KEY-OPERATED SAFETY SCROLL
CHUCK
THE ULTIMATE CHOICE!
STRONGHOLD ACCESSORIES
There are several Jaws Sets which can be quickly and easi-
ly inter-changed on the Stronghold Chuck. Some of these
are listed below:
* #1 Jaws (Spigot Jaws)
Part Number: 2104
* #3 Jaws
Part Number: 2106
* Jumbo Jaws
Part Number: 2136
* Flat Jaws
Part Number: 2756
* Dovetail Jaws
Part Number: 2948

CONTENTS OF THIS PACKAGE.
Please check that the following components have been included in your
package. If any of the following pieces are missing, please contact us imme-
diately.
•1- STRONGHOLD Chuck assembly with No. 2 Top Jaws attached
•1- Geared Chuck Key
•1- 1-1/2" R.H. Jumbo Screw
•1- Taperlock adaptor*
•2- M5 * 20 Hex socket screws*
•1- 4 mm T-handle hex key
*The adaptor may be packaged separately. If your adaptor is not already installed in your
chuck, installation instructions are on page 8.
2
Congratulations on your purchase. We at ONEWAY believe that you will be
pleased with your versatile STRONGHOLD Key Operated Scroll chuck.
Please read the following instructions before its use.
* Section 1 - Your STRONGHOLD
& its parts
Contents of this package
Chuck Description
Features of your STRONGHOLD
Why you have bought a superior chuck
* Section 2 - Getting Started
Mounting the Adaptor
Removing the Adaptor
Mounting the STRONGHOLD on your
lathe spindle
* Section 3 - Maintenance
Removing Top Jaws
Removing Base Jaws
Reassembling your STRONGHOLD
This section explains the proper terms for the component parts which make
up your new STRONGHOLD chuck. These terms will be referred to
throughout this instruction manual. It is necessary that you know the proper
names for the parts of your chuck for complete understanding of these
instructions. Some of the chuck's features are also discussed.
Certain features of the STRONGHOLD are patented under one or more of
the following patent numbers:
5141239
2257068
(other patents pending at the time of printing this manual)
SECTION 1 - YOUR STRONGHOLD & ITS PARTS
* Section 4 - Chuck Accessories
Optional Chuck Accessories & Uses
Capacity Chart
* Section 5 - ONEWAY Turning Tips
Methods for turning Bowls/Platters:
Method One: Screwchucking
Method Two: Large Drill
Method Three: Glue Block
Differentiating Left & Right Hand
Screws
Maximizing Gripping Power
A Finishing Tip
Safety Tips
ONEWAY's Guarantee
Warranty Card.
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
3

GEARED KEY: To open and close
the chuck. The key is supported in
two places, for easy action and long
life.
Your key will come disassembled.
Insert the cross bar into the hole in
the key and put the O-rings (which
are packed in a small plastic bag) on
each end to secure it in place.
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BODY: The
main part of
the chuck. It
holds all
other parts
as an
assembly.
PROFILED TOP
JAWS: The No. 2
Jaws which are
attached to the
base jaws and
will hold the
wood to be turned.
BASE JAWS: The
carriers to which the
top jaws are attached
with two countersunk
screws. They are
numbered 1 through
4 on the side.
4
YOUR CHUCK DESCRIPTION
THE SCROLL: The
cylindrical part which
has a gear cut on one
side and a flat surface
thread on the opposite
side which moves the
base jaws in and out in
unison.
TAPERLOCK ADAPTOR:
Made with various threaded sizes
so it can be made to fit any lathe
spindle. If you change lathes, all
you need to do is buy a new adap-
tor, not a whole new chuck. The
taperlock design eliminates the pos-
sibility of the adaptor loosening or
separating from the chuck body in
normal use or when reversing the
lathe.
NOT SEEN:
SNAP RING: The clip which holds the scroll in place. Snap ring pliers are
required to remove the scroll if necessary (Anderton #6 external snap ring
pliers)
4 MM T-HANDLE HEX KEY: Used to install or remove the adaptor
and/or the Top Jaws.
Back view of STRONGHOLD chuck
with the adaptor removed.
YOUR CHUCK DESCRIPTION
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O-Ring (#009)
Cross Bar
Top view of STRONGHOLD chuck. The
chuck is shown partially disassembled to
help illustrate all of its components.

The groove on the base
jaw is tapered. This groove
is where the Top Jaw sits
and is pulled in with two
countersunk screws. The
taper allows for
the top jaws to
have a snug fit
but will not
damage either
the top or
base jaw.
6
The STRONGHOLD is equipped with
ONEWAY's patented profile top jaw shape. This
shape increases gripping power at all diameters
of round and square stock. Less wood damage
also occurs with this jaw shape than
with the conventional round
shaped jaws.
SLOT (patented
safety feature)
This is a slot which is milled
onto the body of the chuck.
There is a shorter slot under the
opposite jaw, which can't be
seen in this view. Refer to page
13 for the functions of these
slots.
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FEATURES OF YOUR CHUCK
Note the recess: This is
where the groove around
the diameter of the head
of the screw fits. This
eliminates the possibility
of the screw moving in
or out of the chuck.
Note the shape of the tip of the
base jaw: this fits into the
grooves or flats that are milled
along the length of the head of
the screw which prevents the
screw from spinning.
WHY YOU HAVE BOUGHT A SUPERIOR CHUCK BY BUYING
THE STRONGHOLD:
•Base jaws are made from carbon steel. Precision grinding on the sides pro-
vides for the exact and controlled clearances which are required for wood
turning chucks.
•Base jaws are case hardened which makes them longer lasting, stronger, and
non-seizing in use.
•Scroll is precision machined and case hardened. The bore is honed to exact
tolerances after heat treating.
•The scroll is manganese phosphate plated which acts as an anti-seize com-
pound. Less lubrication is consequently required for smooth running action
over the life of the chuck.
•The body is precision machined. Electroless nickel plating provides a hard
wearing surface for base jaws and scroll while giving the added bonus of
providing excellent corrosion resistance.
Add these quality materials and precision processes to features such as:
•Profiled Top Jaws
•Patented Safety Feature allowing maximum travel
•Key operation allowing one handed tightening and solid holding power
•Superior taperlock adaptor
•and its one-of-a-kind woodworm screw
all at a competitive price - gives you an absolutely superior chuck.
7

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MOUNTING THE STRONGHOLD ON YOUR LATHE.
It is important that your chuck is put on your lathe properly. Proceed as fol-
lows:
After mounting the adaptor to the chuck, carefully screw the assembly onto
your lathe spindle. It should go on smoothly without excessive play or bind-
ing. Screw it all the way on until the adaptor face contacts the spindle shoul-
der. Next, lock your spindle, and unscrew the chuck just slightly so you can
give it a firm swift spin, consequently snapping the chuck home.
Alternatively, a piece of wood can be tightened in the top jaws crosswise,
and with the palm of your hand, bump the chuck home.
To remove, reverse the above procedure.
WARNING:
Do not put a steel bar in the holes of the chuck body, as this may cause dam-
age to the holes and/or the scroll.
chuck body, you may not be able to remove the screws from the adaptor. Do
not forcibly remove, but take the following action: first turn the screws in
further; then, using a file or grinder, remove the first squashed thread. You
will now be able to remove the screws without damaging the taperlock adap-
tor.
8
REMOVING THE ADAPTOR
1. Remove the two tightening screws and thread them into the two tapped
holes of the adaptor. They now become jack screws.
2. Carefully tighten alternately until the adaptor pops loose from the taper.
CAUTION: If a lot of force is required to remove the adaptor, the screws
may flatten and compress the first thread. After the adaptor is out of the
MOUNTING THE ADAPTOR: --(your adaptor may already be mounted)--
1. Wipe the inside of the taper of the chuck body as well as the outside of
the adaptor to be sure all grit and dirt is removed.
2. Slide the adaptor into the chuck body with the counter-bored holes of the
adaptor lined up with the threaded holes of the chuck body.
3. Thread in the M5 x 20 hex socket screws and with the 4mm T-handle hex
key and tighten them alternately. Alternate tightening ensures the the adaptor
is pulled into the taper straight.
Mounting and Removing the Adaptor.
Note that there are four holes in the adaptor. Two of these holes are counter-
bored and are not threaded. These are used to pull the adaptor into the
tapered chuck body (and hold it there). The other two holes are not counter-
bored, but are threaded. These are used as jack screws if the adaptor needs to
be removed.
SECTION 2 - GETTING STARTED

TO REMOUNT THE BASE
JAWS:
a. Rotate the scroll until you
can see the thread start at loca-
tion 1.
b. Back the scroll up until the
start of the thread just disap-
pears, and slide the No. 1 base
jaw into the slot.
c. While pushing inward on the
No. 1 base jaw, rotate the scroll
90Þ. Pull outward on the No. 1
base jaw to make sure that it has
engaged properly with the
scroll. If the jaw comes out, start
the process again.
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TO RE-ASSEMBLE YOUR STRONGHOLD
1. Place the scroll back into the chuck body.
2. Using the snap ring pliers, replace the snap ring.
3. Remount the base jaws, using the following directions:
Chuck shown with all jaws removed. 11
5. After removing the snap ring, turn the chuck upside down into your hand
and the scroll should fall straight out. The STRONGHOLD is manufactured
with very tight tolerances, and sometimes a little jiggling is necessary to get
the scroll out. Note: Do not use a wire brush on the scroll. This can damage
the lubricating properties on the surfaces.
10
To clean your chuck, simply brush clean. If it is sticky, soak in varsol or
mineral spirits with about 10% oil added. Allow to sit for 1/2 hour or more,
and blow clean.
TO DISASSEMBLE YOUR STRONGHOLD:
1. Remove Top Jaws. You may want to remove the Top Jaws either for
cleaning purposes, or to exchange them for an optional set of jaws for a pro-
ject which requires Jaws with a different capacity. To remove the Top Jaws,
use the 4mm T-Handle hex key and unscrew the eight screws counterclock-
wise. The jaws are pulled in on a taper, so after the screws are out, it is usu-
ally necessary to give them a tap (with the T-handle of the hex key) to knock
them loose from the taper. It is possible to disassemble the chuck and leave
three of the Top Jaws on - just locate the Top Jaw with the pin, and remove
it.
2. Remove Base Jaws. To remove the base jaws, you must remove at least
one of the Top Jaws. All four Top Jaws can be removed, but for cleaning
purposes, it is usually only necessary to remove one - that being the one
with the pin (this may be base jaw No 2 or No 4 depending on if it is located
in the short or long slot respectively). After this Top Jaw is off, use the key
and open the chuck until the jaws stop moving. When the jaws are no longer
moving, they are loose from the scroll and can be slid from the slots out of
the body.
3. Remove the adaptor (refer to above page 8). It is necessary to remove
the adaptor in order to remove the snap ring.
4. Remove the snap ring. Use Anderton #6 external snap ring pliers (or
similar) to remove the snap ring
SECTION 3 - MAINTENANCE
Location 2 Location 1
Location 3

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4. Re-attach Top Jaws using the following directions:
To replace the Top Jaws on your STRONG-
HOLD, first make sure that both the top of
the base jaw (still in the chuck) and the bot-
tom of the Top Jaw (to be put on) are free of
dirt. Next, locate the Top Jaw with the safety
pin. Place it on the base jaw adjacent to the
slot (patented feature) and replace the screws.
After the top jaw with the pin is mounted on
the chuck, the other three top jaws can be
placed on the chuck body at random (making sure
that all the contact surfaces are free of dirt).
There are two slots:
The Long Slot is for experienced turners. It is machined to allow the jaws
maximum outward travel without the base jaws coming out of the scroll,
effectively preventing jaw fly-out when the lathe is started.
The Short Slot is for beginners and school use. This slot is machined to
stop base jaws from protruding out of the chuck, which can be a hazard to
knuckles when working close to the chuck.
Bottom view of Top Jaw
with pin
Replacing Top Jaws:
5. Re-Mount the Adaptor. (refer to page 8)
12
d. Rotate the scroll until you can see the thread start at location 2.
e. Back the scroll up and slide the No. 2. base jaw into the slot. Push on the
jaw, and rotate the scroll, as you did for the No. 1 base jaw.
f. Repeat these steps for the No. 3
and No. 4 base jaws.
g. Rotate the scroll all the way in to
check that all the jaws meet in the
centre. If they don't, you may have
put the base jaws onto the scroll in
the wrong order, or into the wrong
slots, or one of the jaws may not
have engaged properly onto the
scroll. If the jaws do not meet in the
centre, open the scroll until the jaws
come out, and give it another try.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
If , after a second try, the jaws do not close properly, remove them and
inspect for damage. It is possible that through accidental mishandling, the
first half tooth on base jaw No. 1 has broken off. If this has happened, repeat
the process above, but start by inserting base jaw No. 2 first, then No. 3, No.
4 and finally No. 1.
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STRONGHOLD with Top Jaws removed. After replacing base jaws, you must
check that they all meet in the centre.

JUMBO JAWS
For finishing the backside of your bowls up to 12" in diameter, the Jumbo
Jaws are unsurpassed. Jumbo Jaws are aluminum plates machined from the
solid for higher strength. Buttons are hard rubber sleeves pressed on taper
steel cores and can be positioned at virtually any diameter. Extra button sets
are also available and can be stacked to hold uneven or out of round bowls.
MEGA JUMBO JAWS
For larger bowls, up to 16", if your lathe has the capacity, go for the Mega
Jumbo Jaws.
EXTRA BUTTON SET
For large, or odd shaped bowls, an extra button set is available which allows
buttons to be stacked.
JUMBO SCREWS
An 1-1/2" Left Hand Jumbo Screw is available for outboard turning (this
screw is the same length as the R.H. screw which is supplied with the
STRONGHOLD). For large bowls, the 2" screw should be used (R.H. for
inboard and L.H. for outboard turning). Having trouble differentiating right
hand and left hand screws? See page 18.
COLLETT JAWS & PADS
For turning very long slender parts, consider the collett jaws and pads. They
are extremely safe and hold with a bulldog grip any part within their capaci-
ty. Collett Pads come in sizes of 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", and 1-1/2".
CHUCK SPURS
If you often switch from chuck work, to working between centres, consider a
ONEWAY chuck spur. It mounts directly into your chuck, which eliminates
having to remove and re-install your chuck from your spindle. Chuck Spurs
are manufactured in two sizes; 1/2" and 1".
SECTION 4 - STRONGHOLD ACCESSORIES
Right out of the box, the STRONGHOLD will be ready to be used for most
turning applications. The accessories which ONEWAY offers were designed
to allow the wood turner to take on projects which may require a smaller or
larger capacity than what the standard No. 2 Jaws can handle. The following
is a list of available accessories which will allow you to easily upgrade and diver-
sify your STRONGHOLD. CAPACITY CHART
min max
#1 Jaws
external chucking 3/8" 2"
internal chucking 1-1/8" 2-5/8"
#2 Jaws
external chucking 2" 3-1/2"
internal chucking 2-5/8" 4-1/8"
#3 Jaws
external chucking 3-7/8" 5-1/4"
internal chucking 4-1/2" 6"
Jumbo Jaws
external chucking 2-3/4" 11"
internal chucking 4-3/4" 12"
Mega Jumbo Jaws
external chucking 1-3/4" 14"
internal chucking 4-3/4" 15"
14
No. 1 JAWS
If often turning small parts, the
No. 1 jaws are a must, but do
not use them for material over
1-1/2" in diameter or for bowls
with recess larger than 1-3/4"
in diameter.
No. 3 JAWS
For large bowls (over 12" in
diameter and 5" deep), No. 3
jaws are an asset because their
larger size will better support
your material, whether holding
inside or out.
15

17
off the screw, it helps if you loosen the jaws off of the screw just enough to
break contact with the jaw faces). Next, turn the blank around and grip on
the spigot or the recess. You may wish to wrap some tape around your spigot
if damage from the chuck jaws is not acceptable. If you have turned a foot,
and want to ensure zero damage, you could also use a glue block at this point
(refer to Method 3). When holding by recess, damage will be negligible.
You are now ready to hollow the bowl.
METHOD 2:
With a large drill or forstner bit, drill a hole to suitable diameter (2-3/8"
MINIMUM) and depth (1/4" or deeper) which acts as a recess. You can now
grip on this recess by expansion chucking and turn the outside of the bowl.
As in method one, turn a foot, a spigot, or a recess for holding. Loosen the
chuck, remove the blank, turn it around and now grip the blank on the back-
side and hollow out the bowl. This method is faster for larger quantities of
bowls, but the large hole requires a good drill press setup.
METHOD 3:
A third method involves a glue block. Drill an 11/32" (9mm) hole in what
will be the inside of the bowl. Mount the jumbo screw in the chuck, and
thread the blank on the screw. Finish turn the outside of the bowl, and glue a
block to the bottom of the bowl. Turn the glue block round so it is concentric
and can be gripped in the chuck. Remove the blank from the Jumbo Screw,
and the Jumbo Screw from the chuck. You can then grip the glue block with
the Top Jaws, and hollow the inside of the bowl. Using a glue block is espe-
16
BOWLS AND PLATTERS:
There are many ways to hold your work piece for turning it into a bowl or
platter. Here are three good methods:
METHOD ONE:
Mount the Jumbo Screw in your chuck. The base jaws should sit in the
grooves or flats which have been milled along the length of the head, and the
groove around the head of the screw will fit in the reduced top jaw section
(see page 6). (NOTE: No. 1 Jaws cannot be used with the Jumbo screw).
After the screw is seated properly in your chuck, drill an 11/32" (9 mm) hole
about 3/4" (19 mm) deep in the part of the wood blank which will be the
inside of the bowl when its finished. Thread the blank onto the screw, mak-
ing sure the face of the blank is in contact with the jaws. You may have to
lock your spindle if you are having trouble holding the chuck stationary
while threading the blank onto the screw. (Never forget to unlock your spin-
dle before starting up your lathe, and its a good idea to get into the habit of
never leaving your key in the chuck while you are doing something else).
Once your blank is mounted on the screw, you can rough or finish turn the
outside. To be able to mount your bowl for turning the second side, turn a
foot, a spigot or recess for holding. Now you can remove the blank from the
screw by rotating counter clockwise, (if you have trouble getting the blank
SECTION 5 - ONEWAY TURNING TIPS
This section of this instruction manual is devoted to turning tips, and ways to
maximize the use of your chuck.

19
A FINISHING TIP
If you are finishing a piece with a spray finish, such as laquer, you may want
to spray with the lathe off, and cover the chuck with some kind of protective
shield. You can then remove the shield after spraying, turn the lathe on, and
finish buffing with a rag or chips. Covering the chuck while spraying, will
prevent it from becoming sticky and gumming up the scroll and jaws. This
will ultimately keep your chuck running with smooth and easy action.
MAXIMIZING YOUR GRIPPING POWER
If turning a large piece of square stock, (especially if it is end grain) it is a
good idea to initially chuck the "good" end. A spigot can be turned on the
other end. The piece can then be turned around and gripped on the spigot.
This is done for two good reasons. Firstly, the spigot can be turned small
enough so that when it is chucked, the base jaws remain inside the diameter
of the body, which reduces the risk of knuckles being injured if a catch
occurs when working close to the chuck. Secondly, when holding in a spigot
of the ideal diameter, you are also maximizing your gripping power.
TO MAKE TOPS or similar small components, simply mount a suitable
piece of stock, square or preferably round. Due to the unique jaw shape,
good holding will be achieved in either case. For tops, turn the point which
will be in contact with the surface when spinning. You can then work
towards the chuck, turning the spindle of the top, and part off.
18
cially appropriate when you don't want a foot, or tenon and don't have a
means to turn it off. This method is also less wasteful if you are working
with exotic or expensive wood, or if your blank is just the right size and you
can't afford to waste wood on an unwanted spigot that you have to turn off
later. ONEWAY suggests using hot melt glue on dry wood (this glue will not
work on wet wood). Glue blocks can usually be knocked off - if you have
trouble getting the glue block off, use a heat gun to soften the glue and then
knock the glue block off. If working with wet wood, ONEWAY suggests
using cyanoacralate. If you are using cyanoacralate, it will be necessary to
part off or waste away the glue block.
Do you ever have
trouble telling your
right hand screws
from your left hand
screws? The threads of
right hand screws
point up towards the
right, while the threads
of left had screws
point up towards the
left. RIGHT HAND
(INBOARD)
LEFT HAND
(OUTBOARD)
Differentiating Left from Right Handed Screws

20
SAFETY TIPS
As when working with any tools, a sensible approach and simple safety pre-
cautions should be followed.
1. Always wear proper clothing and face protection. Also use adequate
exhaust and respiration equipment, especially when turning or sanding toxic
or spalted woods, or when spraying with any liquid material.
2. Before loading the chuck, check that the wood is not split, cracked, or
otherwise weakened. Do not load damaged wood in you chuck for turning.
3. The capacity of the STRONGHOLD depends on various factors such as
whether the wood is wet or dry, soft or hard or whether turning end grain or
side grain and whether the piece is balanced.
4. Be sure wood is gripped tightly in the chuck before rotating the chuck
under power. Use the key to tighten the chuck.
5. For safe use with hand chisels, do not extend the jaws beyond the chuck
body.
6. Always rotate the chuck manually to be sure of clearances before starting
your lathe. Don't forget to remove the key from the STRONGHOLD before
starting your lathe.
WARNING:
Always check and re-tighten after a catch or when some time elapses between
uses to take care of warp and/or shrinkage. With care you may turn fairly long
lengths unsupported, but for safety, whenever possible, use a center for sup-
port and to prevent accidents.
SAFETY TIPS...continued
7. Never wrap any strip sand paper or clothing around your hands or fingers
when sanding or turning. Do not wear gloves when turning.
8. Only light cutting can be performed when holding long square stock with-
out centre support, especially where soft or wet woods are involved. For best
results on longer parts and heavy cutting, use the tip on page 19 for MAXI-
MIZING YOUR GRIPPING POWER.
9. Using dull tools and poor technique will cause problems with any chucking
system. By using properly sharpened tools and good technique, you will be
guaranteed better results and safer turning.
10. When turning parts held between the chuck and live center, be sure the
center is accurately aligned or oscillation will soon loosen the chuck's grip.
11. For endgrain hollowing in goblets or bowls, a ring tool such as the TER-
MITE made by ONEWAY will, because of its gentle cutting nature, allow safer
deeper hollowing than previously possible with gouges and large scrapers.
21

STRONGHOLD WARRANTY CARD
Name:
Address:
City:
Province/State:
Postal Code/Zip:
Phone:
Date:
Place of Purchase:
Batch Number: (stamped on the side of the body)
Would you like us to send you a ONEWAY catalogue? YES / NO
Comments:
&
GUARANTEE
If you are not completely satisfied with this product for any reason,
please return it to us within two years of purchase. Please mail the
warranty card to us immediately upon purchase.
OUR PROMISE TO YOU
No false claims.
Only high quality goods sold.
Satisfaction guaranteed, or your money back.
If you have any problems, comments, or suggestions, please write us at:
ONEWAY MANUFACTURING
241 Monteith Ave.
Stratford, ON
N5A 2P6
CANADA
or call TOLL FREE
1-800-565-7288
or
phone: [phone]
fax: [phone]
22

1. Do not make the cavity
too deep. Maximum depth
should be 7/32". If you go as
deep as the straight section
on the outside of the jaws the
jaws will grip very poorly.
2. Back taper 2° or 3°. The
jaws will hold much better in
a straight sided cavity than
they will in a cavity that has
too much taper.
When gripping the outside
of a board grain foot
1 Make the foot 1/4" deep
or more.
2 Stop off the top of the
jaws, do not make the spig-
ot so long that it reaches
the bottom of the jaws and
make the corner sharp.
Make the foot straight.
Jaw Design and Holding Power.
It is virtually impossible to design jaws that will not mark the wood. Collet
type jaws and dovetail jaws will leave minimal marks
but they will leave some marks and have the dis-
advantage of only holding well over an extreme-
ly limited range. ONEWAY top jaws are
designed to grip well over their entire range.
As for the marks made by the jaws we believe
that the marks from our jaws are much easier
to remove than the marks made by a bowl fly-
ing out of a chuck and hitting the floor.
Foot Specifications for Chucking Board Grain
Recess or Tenon Specifications for Chucking Board Grain
Specifications for Chucking Spindle Turning (End Grain)
When gripping round end grain
stock, make the spigot the same
shape as for board grain.
2
1
Min. Dia. 2.0" Min. Depth 3/16"
Max. Dia. 3-1/2" Max. Depth 15/32"
Min. Dia. 2-3/8" Min. Depth 1/8"
Max. Dia. 4.0" Max. Depth 7/32"
Minimum Diameter 2.0"
Minimum Depth 3/16"
Maximum Diameter 3-1/2"
Maximum Depth 15/32"
-A- -B-