SynthCube Synthetic Sound Labs Modulation Orgy 2261 User manual

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Synthetic Sound Labs & synthCube present:
Modulation Orgy V2.0
DIY Build Guide
documents v1.0
PCB Rev 1.1
11/01/2023

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Circuit Description
The 2261 Modulation Orgy is a unique Low Frequency Oscillator (LFO) that offers unmatched modulation
flexibility. It features both manual and external voltage control over LFO Tempo (speed), tempo Multiplier,
Waveform and Waveform Distortion.
Eight Waveforms are produced, including Sawtooth, Ramp, Rectangle, Triangle, Sine, Sweep, Lumps and
Random with morphing between adjacent waves. Waveforms may be further modified using the Wave Distort
controls.
The new 2261 Modulation Orgy has completely reimagined firmware that includes improvements such as
waveform morphing and random wave slew. The new module width is now only 8 HP (half the width of its 16
HP predecessor) and is available with either black or silver faced panels.
The 2261 can produce 8 morphing waveforms, including a random (sample & hold) wave with variable slew.
All the waveforms can be altered by the wave distortion CV.

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It also includes a tempo multiplier. This is combined with the tapped tempo to allow the LFO frequency to be
set at a multiple of the tapped rate. The available multipliers are 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 3, and 4. This allows half- and
double-time, and triplet times.
The LFO tempo, multiplier, waveform selection, wave distortion, and output level are all voltage-controlled.
The LEVEL CV input responds linearly to 0 to +5V and is normalled to +5V so that with no input, the 2261
outputs are at maximum. This convenient input can frequently save a separate VCA when doing voltage
controlled modulation depth.
The SYNC input can accept clock pulses from other equipment, which allows the 2261 to be synchronized to
other devices. A CLOCK OUT which can be used to drive other equipment, allowing a tap-tempo controlled
clock for an analog sequencer or drum machine, for example. A phase reset on the first tap to the tap tempo
input allows you to keep the LFO on the beat with a single tap.

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General Assembly Preparation
Your kit should include the panel, PCB with SMT parts already assembled, power cable, mounting screws and
the following parts:
1) Check that the kit contains all of the parts noted in the BOM; notify us of any discrepancy using
[e-mail]
2) Check the condition of the panel for any defects.
3) Gather additional materials and tools necessary for your build:
a. Tools (soldering iron, pliers, wire cutters/stripper, etc)
b. Solder of your choice
c. Digital camera to document your progress (optional, but helpful)
Let’s get started.
1) Inspect your pre-assembled PCB. Check for loose or missing SMT components. It’s unlikely you will find
any- but best to check before you start.
2) The general assembly process requires placing the pots, jacks and LED switch on the PCB, setting the
panel on top of the components so they align, then soldering the components from the back of the
PCB.
3) There are eight (8) jacks. Cut the
ground pin off of two (2) of the
jacks (for JUMLT and JWAVE)
BEFORE
AFTER

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4) Place the LED pushbutton switch
onto the PCB. Make sure the red
dot (cathode (-) side) of the switch is
aligned with the small square on the
PCB silk screen.
5) Firmly hold the switch to the PCB so
it is perfectly upright, then turn over
the PCB and bend over two or more
leads so the switch stays in place. Do not solder yet.
6) Remove the nuts and washers from the pots and set them aside.
7) Without soldering them, place the jacks and pots on the correct marked
side of the PCB.
a. Make sure you place the two (2) jacks missing their ground pins
into the correct places adjacent to the LED pushbutton. Be sure
to align these jacks with the cut pins in the same orientation as
the other jacks, as these jack locations do not have holes for
ground pins. A ‘regular’ jack will not fit there.
8) Gently place the panel over the components and adjust until all the components come through the
panel fully.
9) Loosely install the jack and pot washers & nuts; this will help hold the
panel to the PCB assembly and correctly position the parts while you
solder them.
10) Check the orientation from the side - the panel should be parallel to the
PCB and parts should be flush against the back of the panel. The switch
should be centered in its hole so it can be pressed without rubbing.
11) Set the loosely assembled module on its face - it will stand on the pots.
Solder the pots, jacks and LED pushbutton from the back of the PCB.
Turn the module over and tighten all of the nuts. Be careful not to
scratch the panel with your tool.
12) Rotate all of the pot shafts fully counter-clockwise. Install the knobs--
aligning the knob’s index line to the fully CCW position and tighten the
set-screws.
13) Attach the power cable to the keyed connector.
You are now ready to test, troubleshoot (if necessary) and enjoy your
module!

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Schematic Diagram
(continued on next page)

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