Tin Knocker TK 422 Parts list manual

2
TIN KNOCKER
SAFETY RULES
TK 422 PORTABLE BRAKE
1. Never use a machine or tool for anything other than its intended purpose. Use the
proper tool and equipment for the task.
2. Do not operate the machine in excess of its rated capacity.
3. Never use a pipe or bar on the clamp or bending apron handles for additional
leverage.
4. Keep clear of the apron swing area, while operating the brake.
WARRANTY
All new machines are sold with a one-year limited warranty, on factory defective parts.
The warranty is limited to the original user. TAAG Machinery Co. at its option, will
repair, replace or refund the purchase price of any part, tool or machine that fails during
the warranty period. TAAG Machinery Co. will pay normal shipping charges for
replacement parts. After 90 days from date of purchase, all express or overnight delivery
charges are the responsibility of the customer. Purchaser must deliver to TAAG
Machinery Co., at the address below, any written claim, with proof of original purchase.
Replacement parts will be invoiced to purchaser and credit issued when the failed part is
delivered to TAAG Machinery Co. Removal, reinstallation or replacement parts shall be
at purchasers’ / user’s expense. Failure due to improper use of the machine voids the
warranty.
NOTE: 1. This machine has been tested and adjusted prior to shipment, but can and
often does require readjustment due to vibration and bouncing during transport.
Following the procedures described within can easily do readjustment. These are
procedures with which you, as a user, should be familiar, as you will use them repeatedly
over the life use of the machine. If you have difficulty in performing these procedures,
we are here to support you. Call us at: (800) 640-0746.
2. Opening rolls (for Philipsburg Lock) are consumable items and not subject to
warranty.
TAAG INDUSTRIES CORP.
“The Tin Knocker People”
1550 Simpson Way
Escondido, CA 92029
Tel: (800) 640-0746 Fax: (760) 727-9948
Website: www.tinknocker.com * Email: info@taagind.com

3
TK 422 PORTABLE BRAKE,
RECEIVING THE MACHINE
Inspect before signing Bill of Lading. Upon receipt closely examine the machine for
damage during shipment. Any loss or damage should be noted in detail on the
delivery receipt and reported to your distributor immediately. Free replacement from
TK International is dependent upon the notation and the Bill of Lading or delivery
slip.
INSTALLING THE MACHINE
Locate the Brake in a well-lighted area on a solid, level floor. Be sure you have
adequate room to swing both handles and Bending Leaf.
PRECAUTIONS
DO NOT use the Brake to bend rods, nails or wires. This will cause damage to the
edge of the top blade. DO NOT exceed the capacity of the Brake.
OPERATING THE TK 422 PORTABLE BRAKE
Your brake is a general-purpose tool for bending and forming sheet metal. The brake
is operated in the following manner.
The 422 Portable’s legs are folded and held in place by a chain and c-hook.

4
Lifting handles are attached to end of the brake so two men can lift and move the
brake where it is needed. Once the brake is where you want it set it down, unhook the
chains from the c-hooks and lift the brake. The legs will unfold into place. NOTE:
ensure the leg are fully opened and on level ground.
Install the Stand Locking Bolts (P/N 422005) Find number (5) in four places and
tighten securely.
Pushing the clamp handles toward the rear of the brake lifts the ram from the bed and
apron. Insert the material to be bent into the opening between the ram and bed
assembly and clamp the material in place by pulling the clamp handles forward. Raise
the apron to bend the material to the desired angle.
Allowing for metal thickness - The ram assembly must be adjusted to allow for
clearance when making bends according to the thickness of the material being
formed. This adjustment is made by slightly releasing the clamping pressure on the
clamp handles and moving the forward edge back, away from the edge of the clamp
block on the bed. This movement is accomplished by loosening the bracket lock bolts
(Find Number 5) one on each end of the bed assembly. For 22 gauge materials allow
a clearance equal to twice the thickness of the material being worked. For lighter
gauges, allow a clearance equal to one and one half times the thickness of the
material. A larger bend radius can be accomplished by increasing the clearance.
Clamping pressure – Clamping pressure should be adjusted according the thickness of
the material being worked. A common cause of bending and forming problems is
excessive clamping pressure. Clamping pressure should be adequate to hold the
material securely in place but not so great as to require undue effort in locking the
clamp handles. Clamping pressure is adjusted by turning the nuts on the threaded rod
portion of the yoke assembly below the clamp swivel. The lift of the ram assembly is
adjusted by turning the nut above the clamp swivel. When the clamping pressure is
properly adjusted, lock the nuts against the clamp swivel to prevent any change in
adjustment.
Capacity – The capacity of the brake is 22-gauge mild steel.

5
Bending and repeat bends - Bending is accomplished by clamping the work piece
under the ram assembly so that the desired line of bend is held at the forward edge of
the nose bar and by elevating the apron assembly until the desired degree of bend is
obtained. The maximum degree of bend is approximately 140 degrees. Due to the
”spring back” in various materials some overbending may be required to get the
desired bend angle. For repeat bends, adjust the stop on the stop rod to limit the swing
of the apron assembly. The stop is secured in place with a setscrew.
There are four adjustments to do in the following order. Use test strips approximately 2
inch x 3 inch of the same material and thickness you will be forming. You will also need
several full lengths or near full-length pieces by about 4 inches wide of the material you
are setting up for.
Check CLAMPING PRESSURE by placing test strips in the brake about 3 or 4 inches
away from each end of brake. Adjust the clamping pressure so that it is at most only
enough to keep the material from slipping. It is not desirable to use more clamping
pressure. More pressure can “pre-load” the brake in a way, which will force a distortion.
Your best results may be with zero clamping pressure. To change clamping pressure use
the nuts at the bottom of the cam assembly stem.
RADIUS/SET BACK refers to the distance between the leading edge of the clamp and
the inside edge of the apron. Look at your brake from behind. Loosen bolts allowing you
to move the clamp forward or back on the table. Now from the front, look at the distance
between the leading edge of the clamp and the inside edge of the apron. Move the clamp
back from the apron at least 1.5 times the thickness of the material being formed. Be sure
to move the clamp back a little too far and then move it forward to take out any slack.
Recheck clamping pressure. Be sure clamping pressure is very little or none.
Check END TO END CLAMP ALIGNMENT by placing a test strip about 3 or 4 inches
from each end of the brake, and bend to approximately 90 degrees. See if they appear to
be bent to the same degree. Remove the test strips from the brake and stack one inside the
other. Compare the sharpness of the radius. If one test strip is over bent or has a sharper
radius, increase the radius set back on the “tight end” slightly and test again. Here too,
you want to be sure move the clamp back a little extra and then bring it forward to take
out any slack.
TRUSS RODS are adjustable to help make the center of the brake bend the same as the
ends. Use truss rods to change the shape of the brake and/or to stiffen it. On models with
2 truss rods on the clamp, you can stiffen the clamp to some degree by “pushing” with the
larger truss and then “pulling back” with the smaller one.
There is a large nut on each of the truss rods, which can add pressure in the center of the
clamp, table, or apron. If adjustment is needed, usually the clamp is the place to start. A
combination of adjusting the clamp, apron and table truss rods may be needed. After
making a change, use the 2” x 3” test strips near the ends of the brake to re-check clamp
pressure and end to end alignment, then use a full length strip to see if the middle is

6
forming the same as the ends. CAUTION: OVER TIGHTENING TRUSS RODS CAN
CAUSE PERMANENT DISTORTION. If, after several tries, you do not get the desired
effect, back off pressure on all truss rods and try again with a different sequence.
Sometimes a slight upward crown to the table and apron is desirable. When the test strips
look right, use the brake normally. If it then changes after using the brake for a while,
you’ll need to re-adjust. But first see if the set back or end to end alignment changed by
using “2 x 3” test strips near each end. After a break-in period, truss adjustment is rarely
needed. But you do need to adjust clamp pressure and radius set back for varying gauges.
MOST DISTORTIONS ARE DUE TO TOO MUCH CLAMPING PRESSURE & / OR
NOT ENOUGH RADIUS SET BACK.
When adjusted, a hand brake should form consistently the full length of the brake.
Reasonable accuracy is what we are going for here – you don’t need to get out your
protractor and dial gauge. And remember it is necessary to change adjustments when
heavier or lighter material is formed. At the least, adjust your brake for the heaviest
material you use and leave it there for the lighter material too.
OIL APRON PINS, CLAMPING CAMS, & VERTICAL GUIDES BEHIND THE
CLAMP FREQUENTLY.
There is a block at the bottom of the cam stem where you adjust clamping pressure with
the nuts above and below the block. After you adjust clamping pressure, the nuts above
the block should be locked against each other so that there is a gap between the block and
the nut above the block of about 1/32” to 1/8” (or about .030 to .125). This will allow
some movement of the anchor pin/block assembly, which is necessary when only one end
of the clamp is opened. Having way too much gap, say ¼” or more, will cause wear on
some cam assembly parts and on the anchor pin. Having no gap can cause some cam
assembly or vertical guide parts to bind and wear faster. This adjustment should be made
whenever you change the gauge of material being formed. At least set it up for the
thickest material you normally form with a 1/8” gap above the block. This will leave you
room to adjust the nut under the block for some thinner materials without having to adjust
the nuts above the block too.
During the break in period, clamping pressures is an adjustment that will change with
use. Keep in mind that it is important to use correct clamping pressure and minimize the
gap above the block at the bottom of the cam stem. It is also very important to avoid
having too much clamping pressure. Clamping pressure and set back are the two
adjustments that do need your attention whenever you change the gauge of material you
are forming.
OIL APRON PINS, CLAMPING CAMS, & VERTICAL GUIDES BEHIND THE
CLAMP FREQUENTLY.
“HOW MUCH CLAMPING PRESSURE?”

7
Clamping pressure, or cam-over pressure, is adjustable. Having a lot of it is often thought
to be a good thing. Try this when the middle is not bending the same as the ends; instead
of adding more clamping pressure reduce it. Consider the possibility that any brake is
naturally stiffer near the ends than the middle. When cam pressure is added more than a
very light touch, the material being formed has more pressure applied to it on the ends
than the center before the bend is even started (because the brake will flex slightly more
in the center than it will at the ends). So both the material and the brake are in a distorted
condition from the get go. Adding more clamping pressure makes it worse. You may
have noticed a wavy condition to the material hanging out the back of the brake when
clamped. Try reducing truss pre-load, and reduce clamp pressure. See if you get a better
bend, and if it is much easier to pull the cam over. Try zero clamp pressure next. With
little or zero clamp pressure, you will see the entire clamp or head assembly of the brake
lift at the start of a bend, but that is ok since it is all lifting evenly.
OIL APRON PINS, CLAMPING CAMS, & VERTICAL GUIDES BEHIND THE
CLAMP FREQUENTLY.
RADIUS SET BACK OR BEAM ADJUSTMENT
When you are forming light material, set your clamp back from the edge of the table at
least 1.5 times the thickness of the material being formed. When forming maximum rated
material use at least 2 times, and better to try 3 times material thickness for your set back.
Set back allows a radius. Up to a point, more radius results in needing less pressure to
make the bend. Less pressure means everything is distorting less and you get more
consistent bends.
USING A “BOOT” TO INCREASE INSIDE BEND RADIUS
When forming some materials, such as aluminum, it is desirable to bend against an edge
that is not so sharp as the standard edge. This will decrease the tendency of aluminum to
stress crack, or fracture, when forming it. You can make a ‘boot’ from about any light
gauge material, say about 4’ wide by the length of your brake. Something like 22ga –
24ga mild steel is good. Put the material in the brake so that you are bending a 2’ flange,
but bend it all the way over until it lies against the top of the brake. Now you can tape it
or use other means to keep that piece in place. With this ‘boot’ in place, you will increase
the inside radius of the bends you make. An additional ‘boot’ will increase the inside
radius of bends even more. Note that as you add one or more ‘boots’, you must also
adjust the clamp set back, so to maintain the 1.5 –3 times material thickness as your
minimum radius set back, also called beam set back. And, clamping pressure will need to
be adjusted. Remember that less pressure is usually better than too much pressure.
OIL APRON PINS, CLAMPING CAMS, & VERTICAL GUIDES BEHIND THE
CLAMP FREQUENTLY.

8

9
Parts For 422 Portable Brake
Fine No.
Part No.
Description
No. REQ"D.
1
422001
Ram Pin
2
2
422002
Right Ram slide
1
3
422003
Ram Slide Bolt
2
4
422004
Carrying Handle
2
5
422005
Stand Locking Bolts
4
6
422006
Set Screws
6
7
422007
Right Folding Stand
1
8
422008
Folding stand hinge Pin
2
9
422009
422 Bed
1
10
422010
422 Ram Ass'y
1
11
422011
Bending Leaf Ass'y
1
12
422012
Rubber Lifting hand guard
2
13
422013
Bed Stud connecting Block
2
14
422014
Nut
4
15
422015
Connecting Block
2
16
422016
Connecting Nut Right
2
17
422017
Connecting Link adjustment rod
2
18
422018
Connecting Nut Left
2
19
422019
Connecting Ram stud
2
19A
422019A
Connecting Ram stud / Nut
2
20
422020
Eccentric handle Right
1
21
422021
Eccentric Ram connecting right
1
22
422022
Bronze leaf pivot bushing
2
23
422023
Stop Rod
1
24
422024
Stop, Swivel
1
25
422025
Nut, Swivel
2
26
422026
Left Ram Slide
1
27
422027
Stop
1
28
422028
Eccentric handle Left
1
29
422029
Eccentric Ram Connecting Left
1
30
422030
Left folding stand
1
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