Topaz 14 Quick start guide
topaz
topaz 14
»Rigging Instructions
www.toppersailboats.com
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»Introduction
»Manufacturers Details
»Maintenance
»Glossary
»Setting Up the Hull
»Rigging the Mast
»Capsize Line
»Attaching the Main Sheet
»Rigging the Jib
»Raising the Mainsail
»Attaching the Rudders
»Rigging the Spinnaker Kit
»Packing the Spinnaker
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13 - 14
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24 - 26
contents
introduction
For further information, spares and
accessories, please contact the
manufacturer:
TOPPER INTERNATIONAL LTD,
Kingsnorth Technology Park,
Wotton Road, Ashford, Kent TN23 6LN
Telephone +44 (0) 1233 629186
email info@toppersailboats.com
These RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS have been compiled to
help you to rig your Topaz 14C/CX Catamaran. Please also
ensure that you refer to your TOPAZ OWNERS MANUAL.
The OWNERS MANUAL has been compiled to help you to
operate your craft with safety and enjoyment. It contains
systems and information on its operation and maintenance.
Please read it carefully and familiarise yourself with the craft
before using it.
you are not familiar with, for your own comfort and safety,
please ensure that you obtain handling and operating
experience before assuming command of the craft. Your
dealer or national sailing federation or yacht club will be
pleased to advise you of local sea schools, or competent
instructors.
PLEASE KEEP THE RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS AND THE OWNERS
MANUAL IN A SECURE PLACE AND HAND THEM OVER TO THE
NEW OWNER WHEN YOU SELL THE CRAFT.
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maintenance
The Topaz 14 is designed to require very little maintenance, but there are some simple ways to keep your
boat in the best condition.
Rudder
Never launch your boat without checking that the retaining clip has clicked into place beneath the
Sails
Although the battens protect the mainsail to a certain extent, do not leave the mainsail hoisted for
extended periods of time.
Raise and drop the spinnaker as smoothly as possible, as this will extend the life of the sail. Avoid
trawling the spinnaker through the water, this can damage the sail and get the spinnaker stuck
around the bow of the boat.
Remove the spinnaker from the chute after sailing; if the sail is left it can attract mice that damage
the sail.
Always dry the sail before folding and packing it away.
Always rinse the sails and the boat after sailing in salt water.
ALWAYS RELEASE JIB TENSION WHEN NOT SAILING
Foils
between the stock when down. Any movement between the blade and the stock, or the stock and
the hull may cause steering problems.
Hull and ttings
Small dents can be repaired by gently warming the hull with a hot air blower (take care not to melt
the hull). For any more substantial repairs refer to Topper Sailboats.
after salt water exposure.
Always remove the bung to empty any water after sailing, and when not sailing leave the bung out to
Ropes
Always replace any ropes that are showing any signs of wear immediately.
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glossary / useful terminology
hull
spars
foils
Nose:
Painter:
Transom:
Fore:
Aft:
Mast Step:
Rail:
Port:
Starboard:
Leeward:
Windward:
Gudgeon:
Mast:
Mast Heel:
Boom:
Outhaul:
Vang:
Cunningham:
Sheet:
Daggerboard
Rudder:
Pintle:
Front of the hull
Rope from the nose of the hull used for towing or tying the board to a jetty, buoy or trolley
Back of the hull
Forward
Rearward
Integral tube where the mast heel/foot of the mast locates
Upper/outermost edge of a hull
Left side of the hull when looking forward
Right side of the hull when looking forward
Direction away from the wind
Direction from which the wind is coming
Fitting on the transom used to hang the rudder
Main vertical spar supporting the rig/sail
Lower edge/foot of the mast
Spar at the bottom of the mainsail
Purchase system on the boom for tightening the lower edge/foot of the sail
Purchase system for tightening the rear/aft edge (leech) of the sail
Rope for controlling the inward/outward position of the mainsail
Blade found in the middle of the hull used to counteract leeward slippage
Blade found at the transom used for steering
The male part (pin) of the rudder hanging system
4
sails
Mainsail:
Jib:
Tack:
Clew:
Head:
Leach:
Lu:
Foot:
Batten:
Sail aft/rearward of the mast (Larger of the two)
Sail forward of the mast (Smaller of the two)
Forward lower corner of a sail
Rear lower corner of a sail
Upper corner of sail
Rear edge of the sail
Forward edge of the sail
Bottom edge of the sail
glossary / useful terminology (...)
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rigging instructions
setting up the hull
Fit the cross bar in the beam socket of each hull and align
them with the predrilled holes. Clean and grease the bolts,
the inner bolt for the rear beam are used with the big plastic
washers and the outer bolt with the smaller one.
Hand tighten the bolts while insuring that the tubes are
inserted in the bolts inside the beam.
Then tighten with 2 x 17mm spanners but not too much.
Retightening on a regular basis is necessary.
covers.
and slide the trampoline into the rail of the front beam until
it is central, this best done by 2 people to avoid snagging the
trampoline on the beam.
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2
6
setting up the hull (...)
When the trampoline is central it can be laced to the rear
beam.
Attach the tensioning line to one end of the rod in the
trampoline with a bowline.
The excess line can the taken across the back and secured
to the line.
the loop to the metal eye on the rear cross beam and take a
couple of turns through the plastic ring on the trampoline
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5
6
The rope is lead around the buttons on the rear beam, up
and down to the cut outs on the trampoline passing around
the bar, carry on across the whole trampoline you will need
to go back and tighten the line to pull the trampoline tight.
At the last button take an extra loop around the button and
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7
setting up the hull (...)
front beam, using a round turn and 2 half hitches.
Pull the line up so the plastic ring at the back is just pulled in
to the side of the trampoline.
The side lines can now be pulled tight at the rear beam to
tension then. When tight secure the line to the metal loop
(using 2 round turns and a half hitch).
Leave a long tail as this is used to tension the trampoline at
the back by feeding through the metal ring on the
trampoline.
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8
the hull midway between the beams.
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8
setting up the hull (...)
rigging the mast
The line is fed through the eyes on the trampoline several
the hull.
TIP: extra side line can be tided away by feeding it down the side
of the trampoline.
trampoline should be kept as tight as possible as this makes
it easier to move on.
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Lay the mast along the centre line of the boat, so you can
wire, shroud and forestay from the large Bow shackle.
The furler swivel is attached to the large Bow shackle with a
smaller bow shackle.
the furler.
block.
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2
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rigging the mast (...)
The rigging can then be attached to the mast.
NB: please ensure all shackles are securely tightened.
Remember to separate the rigging to the correct sides
of the boat.
Attach the shroud adjusters to the plates on the hulls and
the shrouds approximately the 4th hole down.
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5
head halyard pulley.
a round turn and 2 half hitches. The pulley sits just below the
line around the mast.
4
10
rigging the mast (...)
In preparation to raise the mast you will need to attach the
striker bar to the bow of the hull.
the striker bar.
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crossbeam, you will need to per drill 2 x 3.7mm holes in the
beam to screw the cleat on to.
NB: ensure the securing screw for the drum is tightly done up.
The striker bar can now be attached to the deck eyes on the
bow. The split pin must be fully bent back to secure the pin.
You may prefer to replace the split pins with rings for ease of
use.
side will face forward.
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8
The mast can now be lifted back do the mast foot can be
inserted).
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11
In order to raise the mast you will need assistance, one
person will need to lift the mast from the back of the boat.
They walk forward while the other person pulls up on
to the furler drum. This allows the mast pin to be removed so
the mast can rotate.
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11
rigging the mast (...)
Once the pin has been removed the rig tension can be
long tail to tie the jib on with.
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12
rigging the mast (...)
capsize line
elastic.
Tie a loop (approximately 15cm in length in one end of the
elastic).
Feed the end of the elastic without the loop down the metal
eye on the trampoline under the trampoline and up through
the eye on the other side. Tie a loop in this end as well.
The line is tied around the base of the mast with a
bowline knot.
loop through eye on the ring just below the pulley, then pull
the elastic loop over the metal ring and pull tight.
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14
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15
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capsize line (...)
attaching the main sheet
to stop your hands slipping if you are righting the boat
The mainsheet rope also controls the traveller car
movement.
The mainsheet blocks are already threaded, all that is
to limit the travel.
Shackle the pulley system to the traveller car on the
crossbeam.
and 0.75m in from the end of the mainsheet, these may need
to be adjusted latter), 1 is to limit the amount you can sheet
out and the other is to limit the travel of the car so it does not
hit the end stop on the crossbeam.
When not needed the line is stored in the marked
pocket on the trampoline.
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1
2
3
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attaching the main sheet (...)
rigging the jib
Feed the main sheet through the cleat (from the front to
back of the boat) on the traveller car and through the round
hole on the plate the main sheet is attached to.
The end of the mainsheet is then secured with a stopper
knot having been fed through the deck eye on the back of
the rear cross beam.
the cleat, this should stop between 5 and 10 cm short of the
end stop. If the car is hitting the end stop, move the position
of the knot to prevent this.
on the jib.
Attach the jib to the furler drum using the long tail of the
forestay (as close as possible to the drum) again leave a
long tail.
Attach the jib halyard to the webbing loop on the top (head)
of the jib sail with a bowline knot.
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4
1
2
15
rigging the jib (...)
The jib can now be slowly pulled up attaching the plastic
hanks to the wire forestay as you go.
3
When the jib is fully hoisted untie the two parts of the
halyard. Tie an overhand knot loop in the end of the
section attached to the top of the jib (you will only need to
stored in the pocket on the trampoline until you need it to
drop the jib after sailing.
Take the tail from the forestay/jib tie down through the loop
in the halyard and down through the cleat on the jib.
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5
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Jib tension can now be pulled on, and spare line neatly
happy with the position of the loop on the end).
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rigging the jib (...)
sheet system running through 2 eyes in the sail.
Feed the jib sheet through the bridge on the top of the cleat
on the forward cross beam, and tie a stopper knot in the end.
Then tie another knot around the bridge with the stopper
knot hard against it.
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Feed the jib sheet through one eye on the sail and then back
down and through the cleat.
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rigging the jib (...)
Pass the jib sheet across the trampoline and through the
other jib cleat, through the other eye on the jib sail and then
tie the end to the bridge on the cleat.
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raising the mainsail
Ensure the boat is facing into the wind before you start to
hoist the main sail.
Always ensure that all the sail battens are securely in place
in the batten pockets with the front end seated in the plastic
Shackle the main halyard to the top of the sail, ensure
the pin of the shackle is through the sail and the rope
is running over the body of the shackle.
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raising the mainsail (...)
cut out on the mast, it is helpful to have a second person to
feed the sail in as the halyard is pulled (you may need to
rotate the mast slightly if the batten pockets grip the mast).
As you are hoisting the sail ensure the
battens are all rotated in the same direction.
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When the sail is fully hoisted, the halyard is secured in the
cleat on the side of the mast and the tail of the halyard
stored in the pocket on the trampoline.
The bottom of the sail can then be fed into the mast track
below the cut out.
The mainsheet is simply hooked in to the eye at the back of
the main sail.
This should only be attached as you are going on to
the water.
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5
hooked back on to the mast each time.
The downhaul line comes up from the cross bar on the
side, back up through the sail eye again, down to the larger
pulley and then up through the V cleat.
Do not pull the downhaul on till you are on the water sailing
as this powers the rig up.
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arms are angled inward with a connector plate for the
cross bar on the inside face of the arm. When the rudders
are in place ensure they are seated correctly so the
retaining clip springs out.
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attaching the rudders
The connector cross bar and tiller extension are connected
together using the UJ, the cover plates need to be clipped in
place to ensure the joint cannot come apart.
When on the water the rudder blades are pushed down and
secured in place by putting the bungee loops over the
stainless steel arm.
2
rigging the spinnaker kit
system, with a shoot system for launch and retrieval of
the sail.
on the pole, the rope edge of the opening is fed around the
slot on the back of the hoop.
pole to hold it in place.
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